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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: tigrlily64 on March 05, 2009, 11:54:50 AM

Title: Easy bodice?
Post by: tigrlily64 on March 05, 2009, 11:54:50 AM
I know there's no such thing as a truly easy, no-worries bodice.  But what would you ladies (and gentleman?) reccomend for someone's first homemade bodice?  I've looked around online a lot, but I'd like to hear your opinion.  So far I've made, in my sewing career, a short skirt with the help of my grandma, pajama pants, a chemise, and a skirt.  Pretty basic things, but I think I did a fair job.

So, suggestions?  Anything is welcome.
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Taffy Saltwater on March 05, 2009, 12:17:45 PM
If you have a good fitting bodice already, use it as a pattern.  Mark the "guts" where the boning should go, take your time.  I used my Moresca pirate as the pattern for the guts of a pirate coat I made last year - turned out a lot better than I had any right to expect.
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: gem on March 05, 2009, 03:10:41 PM
What Taffy said.

I've made several now, and my very best results have been from copying a well-fitting bodice I had already.  (I also find copying existing garments much, much easier than following commercial patterns, but YMMV.)

If you don't have a bodice that fits you well, or if you're just more comfortable using a commercial pattern, then try Baroness Doune's instructions (http://www.karen.htmlcreators.com/renbodice.html) for how to properly fit a commercial bodice (along with pattern recommendations).  She explains everything.

ETA: actually, that's just good reading, *period.*  Even if you do intend to copy one, you should probably read through the Baroness's steps, to see how things are constructed.

Good luck!
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: tigrlily64 on March 05, 2009, 05:14:43 PM
I don't have a bodice yet-I wanted to make my whole first costume.

That pattern looks really complicated- a bit scary for a beginner.

ETA:  I saw the bodice pattern on Red Dawn, http://www.reddawn.net/costume/bodice.htm (http://www.reddawn.net/costume/bodice.htm).  That looked pretty easy.
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: gem on March 05, 2009, 06:05:08 PM
It's probably pretty easy, sure.

But having been a beginner not that long ago, I think you may not be 100% happy with how it might turn out.  A bodice should be a very fitted garment, and I'm not sure the construction of the Red Dawn bodice will give you those results.  (I find it particularly suspect that she gives no photos of a finished version.)

Have you thought, instead, about making a dress?  They're typically much easier than bodices, and you'll learn valuable construction techniques that you can later use to make a more supportive bodice.  My first project was a Simplicity Irish Gown:
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/7547261/98888666.jpg)

Unfortunately, this pattern is now out of print, but there are similarly-beginner-friendly patterns out there (such as McCall's 4997 (http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4997.htm?tab=list/costumes&page=all), without the sleeves... altho' that pattern runs *very* large).  In making that dress, I learned how to construct a basic bodice, including lining, boning, and straps.  You already know how to attach a skirt to a waist and hem it, so that part will be easy-peasy for you.  The fit in a gown like this is going to be more forgiving than the Red Dawn bodice.

HOWEVER, I am firm believer that a person should make the project she WANTS to make.  You'll have more invested in it, and you'll be prouder of the results... than if you picked something somebody else convinced you to do instead.  So if you do really want to try that bodice, go ahead!

(I still think you should read the Baroness's site, because the information there is plenty useful.  Promise.)
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: tigrlily64 on March 12, 2009, 09:06:14 PM
Hello, I'm back again. :-)
I've been looking at lots of patterns, and I've come to the conclusion that what I need is for someone to explain every single step of bodice making for me.  Baroness Doune's page was very helpful, and I think I might try to make a bodice that way, but I'm still not sure.

Has anyone used or heard of any patterns that are really good with step by step instructions?  I'd consider myself an intermediate sewer (I can take measurements, follow a basic pattern, and am very familiar with a sewing machine-not to mention seam ripper ;-) )  but I've never had any experience even wearing a properly boned bodice, I find it hard to follow Baroness Doune's instructions in some places, as it seems they were written for someone a little more experienced with bodices than me.

Thanks in advance.
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on March 13, 2009, 01:40:18 AM
This is a pattern I use a lot for Bodices and for the Bodice Top for an Irish dress....This is from Alter Years...http://www.alteryears.com/ (http://www.alteryears.com/)

The Pattern...(http://www.alteryears.com/PAY009front.jpg)
PAY009

This pattern is easy enough to follow. I have had this one now for 7 years and it has not failed me yet. It comes in multisizes that can be laced from the front, back, or sides.
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Dinobabe on March 13, 2009, 09:33:24 AM
Quote from: tigrlily64 on March 12, 2009, 09:06:14 PM
Hello, I'm back again. :-)
I've been looking at lots of patterns, and I've come to the conclusion that what I need is for someone to explain every single step of bodice making for me.  Baroness Doune's page was very helpful, and I think I might try to make a bodice that way, but I'm still not sure.

Has anyone used or heard of any patterns that are really good with step by step instructions?  I'd consider myself an intermediate sewer (I can take measurements, follow a basic pattern, and am very familiar with a sewing machine-not to mention seam ripper ;-) )  but I've never had any experience even wearing a properly boned bodice, I find it hard to follow Baroness Doune's instructions in some places, as it seems they were written for someone a little more experienced with bodices than me.

Thanks in advance.

You sound the way I felt a couple of weeks ago!  ;)  I finally just went for it and it turned out great.  I finished my first bodice this last weekend.  It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought once I got into it!  If you are still nervous take some scrap or lining material and make one, see how it turns out.  You may be pleasantly surprised!  ;D
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Taffy Saltwater on March 13, 2009, 10:10:44 AM
Don't be too disappointed if it looks sad, wrinkled & feh before you bone it.  The bones are what supports both the garment and you.  Depending on how fluffy you are, it may appear to be too small but lacing it snugs it right up.
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: DragonWing on March 13, 2009, 10:43:59 AM
Hello I was reading your request. I found this one in McCalls
http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4107.htm?tab=costumes&page=5

that looks rather easy. And with several variations. You may want to try Simplicity patterns also. I find them to be very easy to follow and sew. I find them very good for beginners. When I was first starting to sew Simplicity were my first choice. Now I'll try anything. LOL

http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=searchResults_C.cfm&criteria=costumes&StartRow=49
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Dinobabe on March 13, 2009, 02:12:50 PM
Quote from: DragonWing on March 13, 2009, 10:43:59 AM
Hello I was reading your request. I found this one in McCalls
http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4107.htm?tab=costumes&page=5

That's the pattern I used with some modifications.  The only part I didn't like was the way the front seams puckered a bit, but that's probably a lack of experience!  ::)
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Lorraine on March 13, 2009, 03:00:31 PM
It wasn't a lack of experience, I've made the same McCalls pattern and it's a lack of boning near the front grommets. I know I posted these on the old forums, but since all that was lost I'll do it again. The first is the McCalls bodice with very little plastic boning as per the instructions, the second is the Alter Years front lacing bodice pattern with 1/2" spring steel boning. Same fabric, same person (me), just different patterns and boning.

(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z257/bonnielorraine22/bodices/croppedmccallsbodice.jpg)

(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z257/bonnielorraine22/bodices/bodice.jpg)
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Marietta Graziella on March 13, 2009, 04:00:21 PM
Well HELLO there girls!  LOL   :o

Amazing what a properly constructed and fitted bodice does for the bod.   ;)
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: gem on March 13, 2009, 04:39:58 PM
Lorraine forgot to mention the CRITICAL problem with McCall's 4107: the princess seams.

Princess seams are designed curve gently over the bust, which is exactly what you DON'T want a Renwear bodice to do!  You want a Ren bodice to support the bust (see Lorraine's second picture), and princess seams just cannot do that.

I agree that McCall's 4107 is a pretty easy bodice for a beginner to make (I made it (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/10747433/192069065.jpg); it was my first bodice and first time using lots of boning), but the fitting is really fussy (it runs *huge*), and it won't give you the very best support.  Even swapping out the featherweight boning for better boning won't help, since the boning in that bodice is curved (front and back princess seams).

It was, however, an EXCELLENT step in LEARNING how (and how not) to make a *really* great bodice, which might be exactly what you need at this point.  The directions are basic and easy to follow, and you'll see how things are constructed, which is important knowledge (good and bad) you can use on future projects.

I would suspect that any commercial bodice pattern will have decent step-by-step directions.  The Alter Years pattern (which I have not used myself) is probably going to get you closer to the ideal supportive fit.

(I should point out that I have not used a pattern for a bodice since the McCall's one.  All my bodices--gown and standalone--since then have been from patterns I've draped/drafted myself.)

Good luck!
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Luciana on March 13, 2009, 05:35:27 PM
You're right. Amazing what a good pattern, a good construction and a good seamstress can do for a body.

Good job Lorraine.

Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Dinobabe on March 14, 2009, 01:13:08 PM
My puckering is at the princess seam, as stated it curves instead of supporting.  And it was HUGE.  I had to overlap the sides and cut 3 inches from each side on the front to make it fit "OK".  I didn't want to work too hard on it since it was my first.  But it was a great learning experience!  Since I'm still new at this can anyone suggest how I can use that pattern and make it fit better?  Maybe just a different placement of the boning?  Thanks!
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: gem on March 14, 2009, 03:55:51 PM
To use *that* pattern and make it fit better?

1. Cut out a much smaller size.

2. Draft out the princess seams (http://www.reddawn.net/costume/princess.htm).

3. Replace the heavy duty interfacing with canvas.

4. Redo the boning placement (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/4707019/260713176.jpg), and use heavy duty cable ties (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/4707019/282367920.jpg) instead of the featherweight boning.

...That'll get you started.
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Dinobabe on March 14, 2009, 04:18:28 PM
Quote from: gem on March 14, 2009, 03:55:51 PM
To use *that* pattern and make it fit better?

1. Cut out a much smaller size.

2. Draft out the princess seams (http://www.reddawn.net/costume/princess.htm).

3. Replace the heavy duty interfacing with canvas.

4. Redo the boning placement (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/4707019/260713176.jpg), and use heavy duty cable ties (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/4707019/282367920.jpg) instead of the featherweight boning.

...That'll get you started.

Wow!  Thank you so much!  I think I'll try this and see how it comes out.  ;)
I don't want to sound lazy or cheap but since I rarely get to attend faire anymore and I only paid $1 for the pattern I figured I'd alter it before buying a really nice H/A pattern.
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: DragonWing on March 15, 2009, 03:46:20 PM
Quote from: Dinobabe on March 13, 2009, 02:12:50 PM
Quote from: DragonWing on March 13, 2009, 10:43:59 AM
Hello I was reading your request. I found this one in McCalls
http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4107.htm?tab=costumes&page=5

That's the pattern I used with some modifications.  The only part I didn't like was the way the front seams puckered a bit, but that's probably a lack of experience!  ::)


Wow good to know. I have never made this bodice. And no need to until a female friend may want me too. But thought it looked good and loved the different variations. Thanks for the input from those who have used it and mastered it.
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Bronwyn on March 19, 2009, 09:06:57 AM
Quote from: gem on March 14, 2009, 03:55:51 PM
To use *that* pattern and make it fit better?

1. Cut out a much smaller size.

2. Draft out the princess seams (http://www.reddawn.net/costume/princess.htm).

3. Replace the heavy duty interfacing with canvas.

4. Redo the boning placement (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/4707019/260713176.jpg), and use heavy duty cable ties (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/4707019/282367920.jpg) instead of the featherweight boning.

...That'll get you started.

Glad I'm not the only one with issues with the McCalls pattern!!!  I have steel boning in mine and it does not support the girls what so ever.  I think I might used Dawn's instructions to quickly re-make one for the remainder of faire here in FL.

Quick Question Gem, 

On the boning picture.  Is every "tube" where you put boning?  So you have 5 boning locations?  Or did you just do it at the back seam, the diagonal, and near the ties?
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: gem on March 19, 2009, 01:58:23 PM
Yes: every channel has boning (heavy duty cable ties), so 5--the side seams, diagonally, two together, and then one at the lacing edge.  What looks confusing is that there's a slightly larger gap between the first boning channel at the lacing edge, and the next two boning channels.  That larger gap is where I put the grommets.  If you look *very* closely, you can see tiny Xs penciled in on the channels that were boned (plus you can see that they're numbered 1-5 from the side seam out, so I knew which bone went in which channel).

(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/4707019/260713176.jpg)

I used the boning guide at the Tudor Costuming Pages (http://freespace.virgin.net/f.lea/kirguide2.html), plus advice from Lorraine on boning placement to come up with this pattern. YMMV, and you should experiment to see what works best for you, but this is a good starting place.
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Bronwyn on March 19, 2009, 03:27:14 PM
Quote from: gem on March 19, 2009, 01:58:23 PM
Yes: every channel has boning (heavy duty cable ties), so 5--the side seams, diagonally, two together, and then one at the lacing edge.  What looks confusing is that there's a slightly larger gap between the first boning channel at the lacing edge, and the next two boning channels.  That larger gap is where I put the grommets.  If you look *very* closely, you can see tiny Xs penciled in on the channels that were boned (plus you can see that they're numbered 1-5 from the side seam out, so I knew which bone went in which channel).

(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/4707019/260713176.jpg)

I used the boning guide at the Tudor Costuming Pages (http://freespace.virgin.net/f.lea/kirguide2.html), plus advice from Lorraine on boning placement to come up with this pattern. YMMV, and you should experiment to see what works best for you, but this is a good starting place.

Thank you very much!!!  Going to give this lay out a try.......
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Adriana Rose on March 19, 2009, 07:06:30 PM
Well that explains why the bodice I just made flopped! in more than one way!


I used an old sheet to line it with, I also used the hem off of the sheet for the boning casings. For the boning I used zip ties.

The darn thing is also sits too high on my hips and with the extra bit of fluff from the baby it does me no favors!

I have one that I love that is kinda like a Fredricks of Hollywood bodice and I love the way it fits! so I think I am gonna trace it.

wish me luck again lol
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Dinobabe on March 29, 2009, 03:13:14 PM
OK, so I followed the redraft instructions for McCall's 4107 and re-placed the boning.  I had to do some trimming, measuring, trimming, cutting, and refitting for my measurements on the new paper pattern, BUT......  It turned out GREAT!!!!! ;D  It fits very well, supports, pushes UP :o , and the process was very easy to do.  If I make another I would make the point in front longer and make the back shorter or put in boning, but it really did turn out well and wasn't as hard as I was afraid it would be.  ;) It took me about a total of 15 hours to redraft, cut, sew, and grommet.

The front is reversible, the tabs are looped and have the same lining as the back.  I don't have all of the grommets in (I'm doing them right now while we watch NASCAR!) so I don't have a pic of me wearing it.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_XqxuHS0FflU/SqCC3nvun4I/AAAAAAAAAPI/m4wTGSFJGdM/s512/IMG_9865.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XqxuHS0FflU/SqCC5FEzGTI/AAAAAAAAAPM/BELnlsYk_wM/s512/IMG_9872.jpg)
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Taffy Saltwater on March 29, 2009, 03:20:14 PM
Congratulations - it's a beautiful bodice.  Very nice work!
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: gem on March 29, 2009, 08:50:33 PM
Huzzah, Natasha!  That looks FANTASTIC!!
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: LadyShadow on March 30, 2009, 01:17:18 PM
Oh that looks wonderful.  And thank you all for those tips.  I think i am definitely going to try some of them out.
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Dinobabe on March 30, 2009, 02:47:22 PM
Thank you guys!  You gave me the push I needed to become excited about redoing it! :-*
So if anyone else is contemplating, GO FOR IT! ;D
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: BJ and Kevin on April 01, 2009, 01:51:45 PM
When I made my first Bodice I used zip ties every seam and noticed where I had the openings and the gromets it still bunched up.  To fix the problem I cut metal clothes hangers to the size I needed and filed the edges smooth. It gave the support I needed and no cost as I have tons of hangers!
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: theniel on May 12, 2009, 01:00:58 AM
Thanks for posting the site and pic gem!!! I knew I saw a boneing patern I liked better. I had to find this thread again. Working on my first bodice and its skimpy on boneing. So im thinking on re drawing the chanels. what you have there looks far more suportive. Thanks again!
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Kate XXXXXX on May 12, 2009, 02:01:37 AM
Wah!  I can't see the pics!   :'(

I love this place.  People are always so generous with their help and advice.
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Dinobabe on March 01, 2011, 01:13:03 PM
I know this is an old topic but the info is good and its need seems to be coming up again.

Also, since I never posted any wearing it pics in this thread here they are. ::)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_XqxuHS0FflU/Sp8ue_O85QI/AAAAAAAAABo/O1hh1wAhOnQ/s512/2009%205-1%20New%20Ren%20Garb%20Front.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_XqxuHS0FflU/Sp8ueRjNfUI/AAAAAAAAABk/LpA33RT0WpE/s512/2009%205-1%20New%20Ren%20Garb%20Back.jpg)
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: gem on March 01, 2011, 01:39:05 PM
That is FANTASTIC!!!  What a great bump (of the thread!). The fit is superb, and I love those fabrics together!
Title: Re: Easy bodice?
Post by: Dinobabe on March 01, 2011, 04:28:21 PM
Well, thank you so much!  It was your help on drafting a pattern that made it possible. :-*