The other day, I was thinking how fun it would be to have dedicated, ongoing threads featuring inspiration (and tips?) for particular garb items/elements--kind of like "Show Us Your Hats!" or the Fairwear Love threads in Garb... but with a broader scope, so we could include portrait inspiration and research, too, as well as talk construction, maybe?
(One of my longterm ambitions is to make a Greensleeves gown inspired by my favorite song... although I have absolutely no idea what it will consist of, except extreme, over-the-top sleeves that are green. So I'll be collecting ideas and inspiration until the right mood--and fabric--strikes!)
Here are a couple of pictures I caught of a new gown worn by one of the foreign princesses at KCRF last season. I seriously got heart palpitations when I saw those sleeves!!
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/23882966/403424814.jpg) (http://elizabethcbunce.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/maltese-sleeves.jpg?w=385&h=513)
(These two castmembers are mother and daughter in real life, and have been on cast for years and years and years.)
Also from last year, I made my first set of sleeves--reversible paned sleeves to go with my purple damask kirtle (and turn it into an Italian gown). I used the Margo Anderson Elizabethan Ladies' pattern, and I absolutely love how they turned out... except they're too big (sob!). So I don't have any *good* photos of me wearing them, because I look like they've totally consumed my arms. Alas.
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/23865558/398366742.jpg) (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/23865558/398366743.jpg) (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/23882966/399382750.jpg)
In that first photo, you can see how I used Cindy's (Sealion) button + hair elastic technique to attach the sleeves to the dress. Mine ended up being a little bit loose, so they came undone a couple times while I was wearing them. Not sure if a pair that fits correctly would solve that issue.
***
Ok, who else has fabulous sleeve pictures to share? Lady K--how about the gold sleeves for the Little Queen gown? And Cilean, we need to see the finished woven ribbon sleeves for your Margo Iron Dress!
Great idea for a thread! I 'm getting ready to make sleeves and matching foreparts for gowns this year (as opposed to an entire new outfit).
Can't wait to see pics!
The sleeves for the Little Queen coming right up.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/550879_10151024763386280_852746203_n.jpg)
Lady Kett's Sleeves to her Venetian gown made earlier..
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/419586_10150718018121280_1576365714_n.jpg)
Wow! Keep the sleeves coming!
The sleeves this lady had at Georgia Renaissance Festival are the inspiration for the sleeves I'm making for my wife's gown:
(http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww317/iain_robb/DSC00044_sm.jpg)
Though you cannot see them terribly well here, they were open in front and trailed almost to the ground.
(Coincidentally, my wife's gown is also blue, like Lady Kett's. And that bit of fabric I was going to use for the front of the bodice is the same pattern as the damask in Lady Kett's. I think I'll try to use something else. Wouldn't do to be matchy-matchy.)
Embroidered and pleated Tudor Foresleeves
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x71/Dona_Catalina/Garb%20Projects%202010/IMG_0744.jpg)
The sleeves on both sets of dresses were inspired by the same altar piece from Padua
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x71/Dona_Catalina/Other%20Garb%20Projects/frontofredSpanishCourtdress.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x71/Dona_Catalina/Other%20Garb%20Projects/CompletedSpanishDress.jpg)
Then there are the long Spanish Imperial sleeves.Each individual stripe on the undersleeves is sewn down with copper thread and then embroidered with metallic copper.
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x71/Dona_Catalina/Scarby%202011/CopyofScarbyMay142011.jpg)
http://www.avclub.com/milwaukee/articles/its-good-to-be-the-queen-a-conversation-with-brist,82246/ (http://www.avclub.com/milwaukee/articles/its-good-to-be-the-queen-a-conversation-with-brist,82246/)
These sleeves have made me want them since I set eyes on them. OK - she is the Queen and can be all fance schmancy with her sleeves, but they would be easy enough to copy in a lower status gown as well. Just don't use as much purple, red and gold or have a GREAT excuse at the ready as to why your character is wearing them! :D
Gem you couldn't have had more perfect timing. I have sleeves cut out and ready to put together, but I've been intimidated as I've never done them before. They're just the MA plain curved sleeve, and the same basic garnet linen as the bodice I've been working on, so I can't imagine doing any as fancy as what I've seen. I'm looking forward to some technique posts!
WOW, how awesome are the sleeves on the Lady on the left from KCRF?!? :o
My recent attempt at something similar did not come out so well. :(
Not one to give up so easily, I'm reworking it, and hope to have something simply scrummy to post for everyone soon.
But PLEASE, good Gentles, post more sleeve inspirations! Like hats, they're an imporant accessory that should be appreciated.
Wicked, those are the same sleeves I'm thinking about for the pink corset, but I'm nervous about the sizing, after my last MA sleeve experience. I'm hoping to Frankenpattern them using my yellow sleeves (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/23882966/398628645.jpg) as a basic block and then drafting the curve. I need to dig out my pattern and have a look at it, because I like reversible sleeves (you have to line them, anyway), and I have no idea if I can do what I want with trim &c (was thinking one side pink damask and black trim, like the corset, and the reverse black linen and pinked suede, like the skirt).
Quote from: Wickedvox on July 19, 2012, 04:06:13 PM
Gem you couldn't have had more perfect timing. I have sleeves cut out and ready to put together, but I've been intimidated as I've never done them before. They're just the MA plain curved sleeve, and the same basic garnet linen as the bodice I've been working on, so I can't imagine doing any as fancy as what I've seen. I'm looking forward to some technique posts!
These are the same ones I'm going to try. I have only made one other set-from a simplicity pattern. They came out OK, but hubby didn't like the outfit, so they will never be seen.
Adding some period imagery into the mix! All these date to the early-mid 1500s (1520s-30s-ish):
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17480040/387975446.jpg)
This is a woodcut by Danish artist Melchior Lorch, mid-1500s.
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17480040/403435174.jpg)
Detail of "Marriage of the Virgin" by Jan Mertens the Younger (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17480040/387349385.jpg), Dutch, c. 1520s. (This tells me I haven't given adequate consideration to the fabulous color combination of pea green and hot pink! Who would have thought that would look so spectacular?!)
And some figures from a Franco-Flemish tapestry series, "Scenes from Lordly Life:"
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/19463764/403435322.jpg)
Lovely two-part Italianate sleeves with lots of chemise puffed through. But those bell cuffs are really unique!
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/19463764/403435326.jpg)
Elaborate two-part tie-on sleeves on an early Tudor prototype gown. I like the layering of different fabrics shown here--Can't you see this done with bands of gold brocade atop green velvet? Yummy!
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/19463764/403435331.jpg)
And so the men don't feel left out--check out the crazy loopy paned sleeve treatment here! (This is worn with a simple, form-fitting, parti-color medieval-style doublet and hosen.)
(http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2005/JenniferLGirlPrayeBook.jpg)
The original portrait of the sleeves.
(http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2005/JenniferLBodiceDetail.jpg)
(http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2005/JenniferLSleeveClose-up.jpg)
Recreated Italian Sleeves from a gown on the Realm of Venus website. Very detailed and scrumptuous.
Here's one of my favorites from the Portrait Gown thread. I think it's by Veronese? Dona C copied the green sleeves on the left for a new gown earlier this year...
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17480040/403435584.jpg)
I am *crazy* about the gal in orange!
These two are confusing--they're either by or after Andrea Solario, and represent either Salome with the head of John the Baptist, or Judith and the head of Holorfernes... but that's irrelevant. This is all about the SLEEVES!! I think these are more fantastical than realistic, but they're definitely great inspiration:
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/dc/Andrea_Solario_-_Salome_with_the_Head_of_St_John_the_Baptist_-_WGA21610.jpg/505px-Andrea_Solario_-_Salome_with_the_Head_of_St_John_the_Baptist_-_WGA21610.jpg)
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17480040/403435782.jpg)
(I've actually seen two different versions of this painting, and I don't know enough about them to add any more than that, but the other can be seen here (http://media.kunst-fuer-alle.de/img/41/m/41_00338904~andrea-solario_salome-receives-the-head-of-john-the-baptist.jpg).)
Green sleeves ...he he he... on Saint Justina of Padua.
(http://www.hanscomfamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/st-justina-of-padua-virgin-and-martyr.jpg)
Dortmund, Petrikirche, altar, painted panels, #30, detail
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5216/5418564797_b4e1c1ba5c_z.jpg)
Dortmund, Petrikirche, altar, painted panels, #9, detail
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5169/5213924881_1323d33335_z.jpg)
Quote from: gem on July 19, 2012, 04:19:33 PM
Wicked, those are the same sleeves I'm thinking about for the pink corset, but I'm nervous about the sizing, after my last MA sleeve experience. I'm hoping to Frankenpattern them
HA! Frankenpattern! Love it! I find that wrapping the pattern piece around my arm and using that as a quide.
Quote from: gem on July 19, 2012, 04:19:33 PMI need to dig out my pattern and have a look at it, because I like reversible sleeves (you have to line them, anyway), and I have no idea if I can do what I want with trim &c (was thinking one side pink damask and black trim, like the corset, and the reverse black linen and pinked suede, like the skirt).
I agree with the reversible sleeve idea. I'm going to see how this plain pair goes first, then I'm sure I'll be making sleeves for everything lol! I like your ideas for color and trim also. I want to be just like you when I grow up lol!
P.S. Ill be posting the finished bodice by tomorrow night. Along with an *awesome* pair of ruffle butt bloomers I whipped up on a whim *squee!* Every girl should have ruffle butt bloomers!
I'm adding this link to a beautiful Tudor Tailor-based gown by Angel Stitches (http://www.parchmentandpcs.com/Pages/Gowns/Tudor%20Gown.html), which has a really lovely, soft color scheme of cream and sage green. I can't remember why I originally found it, but the fur sleeves are definitely one of the things I remembered most about it!
http://www.parchmentandpcs.com/Images/Gowns/16th%20Century/TudorAng.png
These are all so wonderful! I would love to make a set of sleeves for my daughter's garb, since she's been wanting something to make it just a bit fancier... and I've been toying with the idea of making a pair of purely fantasy sleeves to wear with my Moresca Pirate bodice, as well. Just something for fun...
Quote from: gem on July 18, 2012, 03:59:46 PM
Cilean, we need to see the finished woven ribbon sleeves for your Margo Iron Dress!
Gem! Ask and ye shall receive! Here are the sleeves done with embroidery and pearls.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dhUL7Ikd8EE/UAtOSl_lIMI/AAAAAAAAFtI/QAiLVc6MxxI/s1225/DSC03256.JPG)
This gown is roughly taken from German and Italian influence:
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/23882966/398375525.jpg)
(http://margospatterns.tripod.com/berniev_cranach_saxon_gown/thumbnails/400x300/cranachfull.jpg)
I would say the sleeves are the Cranach Gown type 1530's sleeves. Here is a kind of how to, to create these sleeves.
http://www.clanwolfhaven.com/cecilias_workshop/german_gown_sleeves.html (http://www.clanwolfhaven.com/cecilias_workshop/german_gown_sleeves.html)
Now check this gown which is Venetian and this is one of the gowns from Ever After:
(http://media-cache2.pinterest.com/upload/79446380896955970_wORliEaR_b.jpg)
cilean
Jen Thompson of Festive Attyre recently posted a collection of illustrations of late sixteenth century female musicians (http://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/sets/72157630228340970/with/7416782598/) that is just spectacular. She doesn't have a lot of information about them, but they look to have a German influence to me, and tho' I can't see the captions well enough to tell what language they are, it too looks sort of German-like. The gowns are all intricately detailed, but what caught my eye particularly were the extreme, over-the-top sleeves. Check these out:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8149/7416782344_137fccb490_b.jpg)
This one is my favorite. I think it might hint at the beginnings of inspiration for the Greensleeves Gown:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8150/7416782598_bd7d07a984_b.jpg)
...And now I want to make my MIL a version of the sackbut player (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7262/7416782696_3593676514_b.jpg)'s dress (she plays the trumpet)! DROOL!!!
You can see the full set at the link above.
Quote from: gem on July 19, 2012, 06:26:44 PM
These two are confusing--they're either by or after Andrea Solario, and represent either Salome with the head of John the Baptist, or Judith and the head of Holorfernes... but that's irrelevant. This is all about the SLEEVES!! I think these are more fantastical than realistic, but they're definitely great inspiration:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/dc/Andrea_Solario_-_Salome_with_the_Head_of_St_John_the_Baptist_-_WGA21610.jpg/505px-Andrea_Solario_-_Salome_with_the_Head_of_St_John_the_Baptist_-_WGA21610.jpg
http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17480040/403435782.jpg
(I've actually seen two different versions of this painting, and I don't know enough about them to add any more than that, but the other can be seen here (http://media.kunst-fuer-alle.de/img/41/m/41_00338904~andrea-solario_salome-receives-the-head-of-john-the-baptist.jpg).)
Usually Judith is depicted with her maid and is actively carrying the head or even in the process of cutting it off. If the head is instead presented to her on a platter it's more likely a depiction of Salome.
Said the art historian.
And I think you're right about biblical women often getting fantastical sleeves. They have more tabs, slashes, pearls and whatever, to mark them as exotic women. They're totally eye candy, though!
All of these sleeves are positively inspiring! Still, I am struggling to come up with the right sleeve idea for my first ever attempt at am upper class gown. I have limited yardage of the main gown color as well as the purple underskirt.
I know you are a clever group. Who has thoughts?
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=395536667171013&set=a.395536303837716.86601.100001440490504&type=3&theater (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=395536667171013&set=a.395536303837716.86601.100001440490504&type=3&theater)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/576007_395536667171013_1641512770_n.jpg)
I know we're all about the eye candy, and *you're* all about the over-the-top ( ;D!), but I think I'd go simple. Can you do hanging sleeves from the main fabric, possibly with a border (at the bottom) of the purple? (Or the fringe!! How fun would that be?!)
Or I might do plain sleeves in some beautiful cream or pale gold fabric (damask or silk or maybe even velveteen), embellished with simple beading--pearls or small gold beads.
Either of these will make the ensemble look "finished," which I think is what you want, yes? But neither of them will compete with the overall look.
Do you have any fabric like the guards on the underskirt?
A simple tube that is open from just above the elbow, but beaded would finish off the overall look without detracting from the dress itself.
I had to laugh at your post, Gem. Since when is my garb ever simple or subtle?! LOL
Dona Catalina, I do have quite a bit of that same guard fabric. It used to be a stripe on one of 3 curtains I found at the thrift store on $1.49 day! Since I was intending to use it as "trim" I didn't worry about the fiber content.
I have pulled some of this apart and have added a 2 inch wide gold trim piece with the same purple bead clusters down the front openings of the skirt. The trim piece is the same as the one boardering the underskirt at the bottom. I also added a gold cord just above the purple "floof" on the underskirt. It's a very messy trim but I thought it added some whimsy. I can't be *too* serious! The skirt will be repleated to remove the buckling at that first pleat and it will be set wider apart in the front to show more of the underskirt.
I am also pondering doing a layer of skirting in the deep teal underneath those tabs to make them pop a little bit more. A gold braid boarder was suggested but damned if I want to do that much hand sewing (I know she's right, it would look great but, ugh!).
Also adding a stomacher in the deep teal to cover the lacing. I know, it will also cover some of the rows of beading and my perfectly matching pattern in the center but the bodice is just a bit too simple.
I still require a belt/girdle of some sort. I don't really *need* the pouch because I put pockets into the side seams of the skirt. I *LOVE* those!! I pleated so the opening is on the back side of the pleat and totally unseen.
I am also changing the jewelry. The necklace here is vintage, my Grandmothers, and one of the cords broke at Bristol. We rescued some of the beads but it all has to be redone.
I'm having fun with these colors but this gown is not yet MG enough.
Psst, MG, I know this AWESOME chick that would make you a custom girdle. Let me know if you're interested, I can get you her info. LOL!!! ;)
I think this is from MNRF; though I don't know for sure.
But on the black dress in front; these are one of the sleeve types I was thinking of for MG. They would allow air movement and not be as warm as more closely fitted sleeves.
(http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DuU0ZWFzK1I/0.jpg)
Quote from: Marietta Graziella on August 06, 2012, 05:43:23 PM
All of these sleeves are positively inspiring! Still, I am struggling to come up with the right sleeve idea for my first ever attempt at am upper class gown. I have limited yardage of the main gown color as well as the purple underskirt.
I know you are a clever group. Who has thoughts?
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=395536667171013&set=a.395536303837716.86601.100001440490504&type=3&theater (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=395536667171013&set=a.395536303837716.86601.100001440490504&type=3&theater)
I'd use the navy blue of the underskirt for the sleeves, make a simple, narrow trapezoid, and then use any of the orange fabric as trim to hide the seam. Or, take a matching orange trim to make horizontal bands down the length of the sleeve (the key is to do this before sewing up the seam). What they did in period was, if it was too hot or you didn't want to wear your sleeves that day, you just tie them to the dress. You don't put your arms through them and the sleeves themselves could be held back with a belt or apron strings. That way, they were still there in case you needed them later but they also served to show off more of the "decorative" work of the dress.
Thank you so much for the ideas, all.
I am sorry for thread-jacking, this just seemed the perfect place to find arm pretties! :)
I'd use the gold for sleeves and trim them in the purple, perhaps add teal beads or ribbons, as well. (Yes, I'm telling you to hand sew some more!)
I like having my sleeves match my underskirt instead of my main gown. If you recall from my yellow noble, I have the long hanging sleeves- yellow on outside, wine on the inside (so that from behind they blend more with the gown but from the front they POP!) My tie on sleeves are the same green and gold as my underskirt. If I'm not wearing them on my arms I just let them hang behind (you once called them "saucy.")
You could do double duty on your sleeves and make them "openable." Button them closed for warmth and undbutton them for hanging coolness.
Quote from: LadyFae on August 08, 2012, 09:51:43 AM
I'd use the gold for sleeves and trim them in the purple, perhaps add teal beads or ribbons, as well. (Yes, I'm telling you to hand sew some more!)
I like having my sleeves match my underskirt instead of my main gown. If you recall from my yellow noble, I have the long hanging sleeves- yellow on outside, wine on the inside (so that from behind they blend more with the gown but from the front they POP!) My tie on sleeves are the same green and gold as my underskirt. If I'm not wearing them on my arms I just let them hang behind (you once called them "saucy.")
You could do double duty on your sleeves and make them "openable." Button them closed for warmth and undbutton them for hanging coolness.
Fae, yer killin' me, girl! When are you coming over to help with all this hand sewing?! :-\ BTW, I would *LOVE* to take you up on the girdle but I have no idea what I want/need. I've never had one so I'm lost.
Quote from: Marietta Graziella on August 08, 2012, 04:35:24 PM
Quote from: LadyFae on August 08, 2012, 09:51:43 AM
I'd use the gold for sleeves and trim them in the purple, perhaps add teal beads or ribbons, as well. (Yes, I'm telling you to hand sew some more!)
I like having my sleeves match my underskirt instead of my main gown. If you recall from my yellow noble, I have the long hanging sleeves- yellow on outside, wine on the inside (so that from behind they blend more with the gown but from the front they POP!) My tie on sleeves are the same green and gold as my underskirt. If I'm not wearing them on my arms I just let them hang behind (you once called them "saucy.")
You could do double duty on your sleeves and make them "openable." Button them closed for warmth and undbutton them for hanging coolness.
I help Amy with most of her hand sewing, so I'm game! Also, she'll have awesome ideas for you for your girdle. Sounds to me like we need another S&B. And more work will be done than just watching Trish. ;D
Fae, yer killin' me, girl! When are you coming over to help with all this hand sewing?! :-\ BTW, I would *LOVE* to take you up on the girdle but I have no idea what I want/need. I've never had one so I'm lost.
Does anyone recognize this portrait? I stumbled across it on etsy, but there was no attribution given. It looks Spanish, but I've never seen anything like those slashed oversleeves!
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17480040/403625330.jpg)
The chevron-striped undersleeves (not to mention the ruched skirt!) are no slouches, either.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Isabel_de_Valois2.jpg (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Isabel_de_Valois2.jpg)
Elisabeth of Valois. :-)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y113/therowen9/AnneAustria.jpg) Anne of Austria -points artfully tied....apparently all the way up the sleeve opening!
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y113/therowen9/UnknownLady47.jpg) Unknown woman-slashed sleeves
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y15/Sweete-Ladye/Faire%20photos/028.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y15/Sweete-Ladye/Faire%20photos/027.jpg)
I saw the darling Francesca at faire yesterday. Here's some more sleeve action for you all.
Wow... those are absolutely stunning! I would love to see a close up of the detail on the red diamond points. I can't quite tell what she has holding them together, but they are different than the pearls on the gold/red diamonds. Just gorgeous, though!!!
Quote from: Rani Zemirah on September 09, 2012, 04:17:04 PM
Wow... those are absolutely stunning! I would love to see a close up of the detail on the red diamond points. I can't quite tell what she has holding them together, but they are different than the pearls on the gold/red diamonds. Just gorgeous, though!!!
http://www.mobile-boutique.com/7filigreeantiquegoldsliderbeads2holebeads7569.aspx (http://www.mobile-boutique.com/7filigreeantiquegoldsliderbeads2holebeads7569.aspx)
Link to yhe slider beads I used... Be warned you will be tempted and quite possible spend lots of money there!
Ooooh... pretty!!! And yes... had I any money to spend, I would be spending lots of it there!!! ;D
Gosh, those sleeves are gorgeous, and that was a great way to use those beads. I was able to tear myself away from the bead site only by telling myself, over and over, "You have enough projects already. You have enough projects already." I'd better go sew something before I go back.
Here is a the sleeve on the new gown I just finished. I had minimal fabric to work with so I had to be creative in getting lots of detail and color in.
The panes are strips of the teal or the purple on one side, backed by the orange; alternated and given a half twist. The teal was the perfect color but it lacked texture so nearly all of it was gathered then hit with a very hot iron to melt it just a bit to give it some interest. Since it is used only for "trim" I wasn't worried about the fiber content. The gold puffing out is the same fabric as the bottom of the forepart. The gold band is what lined the top and bottom of the golden poofs. The beads are the same as the bodice just sewn on in a different configuration. The sleeves are attached under the sleeve cap with elastics covered with the ribbon, wrapped over large vintage purple pearls so I can put them on or take them off on my own. The tassels are the same as on the over skirt. Are they too much? According to Jayne the Phool at Bristol, "Excess is almost enough" when it comes to garb. :D
I absolutely love them!!
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/536114_414716621919684_1353545175_n.jpg)
Quote from: Marietta Graziella on September 16, 2012, 08:09:03 PM
it lacked texture so nearly all of it was gathered then hit with a very hot iron to melt it just a bit to give it some interest. Since it is used only for "trim" I wasn't worried about the fiber content.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/536114_414716621919684_1353545175_n.jpg)
Very creative, I would never have thought about doing something like that. The sleeve is amazing, as is the whole gown.
Wow, those are wonderful sleeves! Texure, details and bling! It's nice to have something a bit different than everyone.
Gorgeous work MG!
Quote from: Marietta Graziella on September 16, 2012, 08:09:03 PM
Here is a the sleeve on the new gown I just finished. I had minimal fabric to work with so I had to be creative in getting lots of detail and color in.
The panes are strips of the teal or the purple on one side, backed by the orange; alternated and given a half twist. The teal was the perfect color but it lacked texture so nearly all of it was gathered then hit with a very hot iron to melt it just a bit to give it some interest. Since it is used only for "trim" I wasn't worried about the fiber content. The gold puffing out is the same fabric as the bottom of the forepart. The gold band is what lined the top and bottom of the golden poofs. The beads are the same as the bodice just sewn on in a different configuration. The sleeves are attached under the sleeve cap with elastics covered with the ribbon, wrapped over large vintage purple pearls so I can put them on or take them off on my own. The tassels are the same as on the over skirt. Are they too much? According to Jayne the Phool at Bristol, "Excess is almost enough" when it comes to garb. :D
I absolutely love them!!
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/536114_414716621919684_1353545175_n.jpg)
I loved them in sketch and they're even better in reality! ;D
Quote from: Marietta Graziella on September 16, 2012, 08:09:03 PM
Here is a the sleeve on the new gown I just finished. I had minimal fabric to work with so I had to be creative in getting lots of detail and color in.
The panes are strips of the teal or the purple on one side, backed by the orange; alternated and given a half twist. The teal was the perfect color but it lacked texture so nearly all of it was gathered then hit with a very hot iron to melt it just a bit to give it some interest. Since it is used only for "trim" I wasn't worried about the fiber content. The gold puffing out is the same fabric as the bottom of the forepart. The gold band is what lined the top and bottom of the golden poofs. The beads are the same as the bodice just sewn on in a different configuration. The sleeves are attached under the sleeve cap with elastics covered with the ribbon, wrapped over large vintage purple pearls so I can put them on or take them off on my own. The tassels are the same as on the over skirt. Are they too much? According to Jayne the Phool at Bristol, "Excess is almost enough" when it comes to garb. :D
I absolutely love them!!
Just gorgeous. Do you happen to have a full frontal pic of the garb with the sleeves attached? Would love to see how they look next to the epaulets.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/536114_414716621919684_1353545175_n.jpg)
Quote from: Lady Gregory on September 17, 2012, 07:35:41 PM
Just gorgeous. Do you happen to have a full frontal pic of the garb with the sleeves attached? Would love to see how they look next to the epaulets.
There's photos in the finished items thread.
Quote from: Ms Trish on September 17, 2012, 07:46:35 PM
Quote from: Lady Gregory on September 17, 2012, 07:35:41 PM
Just gorgeous. Do you happen to have a full frontal pic of the garb with the sleeves attached? Would love to see how they look next to the epaulets.
There's photos in the finished items thread.
Thank you. Off to look.
Ran across this fabulous Cranach portrait earlier today. Check out the patchwork sleeves!
(http://elizabethcbunce.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/patchworklady.jpg?w=405&h=616)
Princess Marguerite of Angouleme, Jean Clouet 1525:
(http://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/walker/collections/13c-16c/graphics/large/princess_marguerite_clouet.jpg)
There is a much larger HUGE version here (https://d30dcznuokq8w8.cloudfront.net/works/r/bal/3/7/8/284873_full_867x1024.jpg), where you can clearly see the dark blue velvet of her gown fabric, as well as the lovely delicate blackwork of her chemise sleeves (which have some really interesting seaming).
I need to find a larger image, if I can, to better see the detail. But I love the overall impression--how the body of the gown is relatively simple, to better show of those completely over-the-top sleeves! (Think how heavy they must be! I wonder what the back of the bodice looks like, to keep the sleeves from completely slipping down her arms. I'm thinking it must be nearly straight across the back of her neck, not scooping down like the front.)
Time for a bump!
And just for good measure, here's that strange Netherlandish gown again:
(http://elizabethcbunce.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/1530-pink-kirtle.jpg?w=500)
I have some salmon pink wool/silk and some dark blue/teal velveteen in my stash, just waiting... :D
Not my work, but it is a stunning interpretation.
(http://media-cache-ec3.pinterest.com/192x/f9/20/4b/f9204bbd5a57e68146db0b9a30eeb56b.jpg)
(http://meisterin.katarina.home.comcast.net/~meisterin.katarina/detail-1.JPG)
A Gown I must make for myself this fall! In a Blood Red Dupioni Silk with contrast Brocade in Golds, Reds, and Blacks. And those sleeves??????
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/p480x480/555950_10151562474481280_462632554_n.jpg)
Time to bump!
Will be posting *new * sleeves soon....debut at MIRF tomorrow.
This is a detail from Jacob Cornelisz van Oostsanen's (1470-1533) Cavalry (large view of full image here (http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff481/morfeo61/Art/Jacob%20Corneliszoon%20van%20Oostsanen/JacobCorneliszoonvanOostsanen--Calvary.jpg)):
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17480040/407404764.jpg)
Look at the size of those green velvet hanging sleeves!! I thought the fur ones in this painting (http://elizabethcbunce.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/joos-van-cleve-altarpiece-of-lamentation-detail.jpg?w=750&h=518) were ginormous, but they look downright skimpy in comparison.
The man's sleeves are also pretty impressive! (As is his whole Landsknecht-style ensemble, actually, down to a great example of the "starfish" hat.)
Gem, you might like these sleeves
(http://fc04.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2012/304/d/a/elisabeth_of_austria__queen_of_france_by_nurycat-d4yvfma.jpg)
(http://www.christies.com/lotfinderimages/D55847/flemish_school_circa_1515-1525_portrait_of_a_noblewoman_half-length_in_d5584779h.jpg)
Dona C, what a curious image--that's the portrait of Elizabeth of Austria that has the partlet Rowen wants to make, but in this version she's wearing Eleanora di Toledo's (http://www.oel-bild.de/Bilder/Portrait-der-Eleonora-da-Toledo-und-ihrem-Sohn-Giovanni.jpg) dress. Where did you find it?
The girl in the second image is so cute!
\ http://www.dolldivine.com/the-tudors-scene-maker.php (http://www.dolldivine.com/the-tudors-scene-maker.php)
\(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b379/GN30/elisabethdautriche2.jpg)
Apparently the original portrait is in Spain. La reina Isabel, poco después de su boda; con diecisiete años. (About 17 years old)
http://dinastias.crearforo.es/isabel-de-austria-una-reina-olvidada-t1593-48.html (http://dinastias.crearforo.es/isabel-de-austria-una-reina-olvidada-t1593-48.html)
The fabric is not exactly the same as the famous Eleanor de Toledo portrait but very similar.
Apparently there are many many portraits of Isabel de Austria that are not well known.
(http://www.photo.rmn.fr/LowRes2/TR1/U3WY52/06-510670.jpg)
The closeups of the bodice jewelry are some of the best I've seen.
This portrait also seems to support the use of faux poufs on the sleeves...the way the fabric 'pulls' and wrinkles on the oversleeve under and around some of the sleeve poufs are just a bit off.
Makes sense. It takes forever to get all the puffs just so. It is why my poufs come off with my sleeves ^_^.
To my extremely untrained eye, this would appear to be the same partlet worn with two different gowns. Perhaps it was a particular favorite?
She may have had several nearly identical partlets. But they look the same to me.
And I do believe the sleeve poofs are not the actual sleeves.
Margaret de Valois poofs in sleeves
(http://www.esacademic.com/pictures/eswiki/77/Margot.JPG)
Isabel de Valois poofs on sleeves -Same partlet?
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LuMjQ3U1wNQ/TgLzmJPd4uI/AAAAAAAABN8/YefSoVlnf0Y/s320/ELIZABETHAUSTRIA.jpg)
Marguerite de Valois- I can't tell what all is going on with the sleeves
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5016/5422901510_07f4e1a2de.jpg)
Also labeled Marguerite de Valois- but I have my doubts
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4143/5448305927_9e04c61a8f.jpg)
Isabel de Valois- damaged portrait- I wish more of the lower sleeves had survived.
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4002/5140514072_ed92b2f8fb_z.jpg)
Catherine de Medici circa 1550
(http://everyhistory.org/costume15th/15-16/15.jpg)
Margaret de Valois- Love the ruff on the partlet-I'm going to try that in organza; I like the way the necklace shows through. I wonder if the slashes in the sleeves are edged to prevent fraying...Is that grey silk peeking through?
Marguerite de Valois- The two portraits resemble each other enough that the one of her in black, looks like an older, much more formal version of her. I'm going to say the paint must have darkened on her face-she looks almost swarthy.
The poufs on the sleeves appear sewn on over the gorgeous material.
The younger one looks like it was painted in the style of a miniature. The exaggerated size of the jewels, the exposed cleavage and that heart necklace combined with the girly-girl bows makes it look like it was meant to be a private portrait. I would love to see what the sleeves look like under all that embellishment.
Rowen, a couple of the ones that Dona posted are modern recreations. You can see more about it here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelostgallery/5422901510/#in/photostream/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelostgallery/5422901510/#in/photostream/)
The guy takes actual portraits and recolors them, adds gems, ect. He also creates some of the portraits so if it looks like modern techniques, it probably is a modern portrait.
Thanks- I thought the' teenybopper portrait' looked a bit over the top. I have seen similar real portraits, but they were all small miniatures. The quality of the painting is not the best. I will admit to a What in Hades? moment when I saw that necklace.
I wonder if it's not some sort of jeweled netting laid over a fabric partlet, that could be used with many different partlets/chemises, or even as a separate partlet, itself, as seen in one of the portraits? Almost a piece of jewelry...
I was wondering that myself. I am toying with the idea of making a sort of beaded 'net' to overlay a shear partlet.
That way the partlet could be washed separately, and the beads won't be disturbed.
Something like a collarless yoke. Has anybody tried to make one?
I doubt they were making the gems separate from the partlets for a couple of reasons. One, take a look at the lady four down on this page:
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/artgallery3.htm (http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/artgallery3.htm)
The partlet is a triangular one - common in Italy- and appears to be fully beaded. There isn't any poofing between the beads like we've seen on this thread and others. Rather, it's a flat surface.
http://uploads0.wikipaintings.org/images/agnolo-bronzino/eleonora-da-toledo-1543.jpg (http://uploads0.wikipaintings.org/images/agnolo-bronzino/eleonora-da-toledo-1543.jpg)
Eleanor De Toledo wears another beaded partlet. Where you can tell the ribbons and pearls are actually sewn on is at the collar where it's turned back. If it were just an overlay, the collar wouldn't be able to do that for one thing, and, for another, you wouldn't see the gold and blue stitching through the collar.
My eyes are not as trained as yours are, when it comes to looking at portraits... but to me it looks like there is no fabric under the first partlet. It just looks like a triangular piece of beaded net that comes down to her waist. I suppose there could be an extremely sheer piece of fabric underneath it, but I can't tell. The first portrait I was referring to (http://www.oel-bild.de/Bilder/Portrait-der-Eleonora-da-Toledo-und-ihrem-Sohn-Giovanni.jpg (http://www.oel-bild.de/Bilder/Portrait-der-Eleonora-da-Toledo-und-ihrem-Sohn-Giovanni.jpg)) seemed to have that same type of netting without anything under it (although it ended at the top of the bodice, or was tucked in)... and I was just speculating as to whether it might sometimes be laid over the top of another partlet, a cloth one, almost like an accessory.
That's what it looks like to me, also; I can't see any fabric under that, particularly where it hangs over the bodice; however, the artist may have decided it looked better that way and rendered the underlying net material 'invisible'.
The beaded material definitely hangs straight down over the neckline of the bodice- there is no visible break in the pattern or drape all the way to the waist.
When you look a the practical aspects of this piece; the top of the partlet beading has to be attached to some material that we can't see, as a stiffener of some kind; I don't see how the beads could keep their positions otherwise.
It looks very much like the portrait is focused around that piece, it must be very valuable.
Isabella-Do you have more examples of this style?
In the Isabella of Toledo portrait-Her skin may just be painted too pale to make out the netting under the beads. I have played around with pearls and wire (with some interesting, if useless, results :o) but cannot produce anything that will hold a regular shape and spacing by itself without some sort of underlying mesh to anchor it.
Sounds like we need a Partlet Eye Candy thread!! I will start one later this afternoon, unless somebody beats me to it. :)
Please do! I'll let you start it...lots of pics please!
My friend Russ Turner--A most wonderful man and fantastic photographer shot this photo of the Courtesans from Venice aka Carnevale Della Muse as they played a most spirited game of Liar's Dice.
From left to right we have Cici, Francesca, and Bianca.
Look CLOSELY ;D at Francesca's sleeves....
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l66/photobail/photo1.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/photobail/media/photo1.jpg.html)
Frederico, Prince of Urbino at the age of eighteen months. Fancy sleeves for a small child.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7129/7146607401_7f09afd01f_z.jpg)
Quote from: DonaCatalina on August 22, 2013, 05:05:14 AM
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5016/5422901510_07f4e1a2de.jpg)
Also labeled Marguerite de Valois- but I have my doubts
[img]http://farm5.staticflickr.com
The heart necklace magically changed to a filigree disc! LOL.
Here's the completely modern heart one:
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5140/5422901494_3c770fb61f.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelostgallery/5422901494/)
marguerite de valois reine de france ii (http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelostgallery/5422901494/#) by the lost gallery (http://www.flickr.com/people/thelostgallery/), on Flickr
I'm pretty sure the painting itself is modern. It's very common for some artists to try to recreate the methods and paints of the old masters while creating new artwork.
I kind of prefer the portrait without the heart.
There is just something jarring about that 'Barbie-ish' piece of childish jewelry on an attempt at an Elizabethan portrait. The result is slightly less garish without it!
LOL ;D
Quote from: Rowen MacD on September 04, 2013, 03:07:04 PM
I kind of prefer the portrait without the heart.
There is just something jarring about that 'Barbie-ish' piece of childish jewelry on an attempt at an Elizabethan portrait. The result is slightly less garish without it!
LOL ;D
I agree. ;D
Portraits of Barbara Radziwill- provenance unknown on some 1530-1553 ish
(http://www.balandin.net/Gunin/Bobruisk/CHAPTER_4/radziwill.barbara.jpg)
(http://v1.valdovurumai.lt/Bylos/Iliustracijos/Istorija/20100810_22-VD_lg.jpg)
(http://pvn.wisja.net/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Barbara.jpg)
I was scrolling through a search link earlier which our Gem posted in response to another thread, and ran across the link to Silverstah's Red Venetian, with the gold and red demi-sleeve that she used, and really, I just fell in love with the look of it! It's fairly simple looking, and yet it transforms the whole look of the gown into something truly special... and it also looks comfortable enough to wear on extremely warm days, which is very much a plus for those of us who attend Faire during the warmer months! I just had to the photo here! I hope she won't mind...
(http://www.silverstah.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/s640x4802.jpg)
This was created before she started keeping her wonderful dress diaries, so there is only a short page with a very few more photos, but it's well worth the look!
http://www.silverstah.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/s640x4802.jpg (http://www.silverstah.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/s640x4802.jpg)
More Isabel de Valois sleeves:
(http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/53/fc/a9/53fca9b4cb5502ad7ca9498c211d73dd.jpg)
From this 1605 portrait by Juan Pantoja de la Cruz:
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17480040/409231448.jpg)
(I think we may have looked at them last year when Dona C was making her new green gown!)
Time to bump this thread up! ;D
Puzzling through the puffed paned sleeves on the Tudor Tailor English Fitted Gown, I stumbled across this Pinterest board, which fits right in with this thread! It's not all Renaissance, but quite a lot of the pins are sleeves on re-enactors' costumes (as opposed to portraits).
Historical Sleeves on Pinterest (http://www.pinterest.com/pamperednoble/historical-sleeves/)
Quote from: gem on July 09, 2014, 02:32:12 PM
Time to bump this thread up! ;D
Puzzling through the puffed paned sleeves on the Tudor Tailor English Fitted Gown, I stumbled across this Pinterest board, which fits right in with this thread! It's not all Renaissance, but quite a lot of the pins are sleeves on re-enactors' costumes (as opposed to portraits).
Historical Sleeves on Pinterest (http://www.pinterest.com/pamperednoble/historical-sleeves/)
Darn you, Gem! Now my productivity today is shot, LOL!
Quote from: Lady Rosalind on July 10, 2014, 08:17:35 AM
Quote from: gem on July 09, 2014, 02:32:12 PM
Time to bump this thread up! ;D
Puzzling through the puffed paned sleeves on the Tudor Tailor English Fitted Gown, I stumbled across this Pinterest board, which fits right in with this thread! It's not all Renaissance, but quite a lot of the pins are sleeves on re-enactors' costumes (as opposed to portraits).
Historical Sleeves on Pinterest (http://www.pinterest.com/pamperednoble/historical-sleeves/)
Darn you, Gem! Now my productivity today is shot, LOL!
And now I found the sleeves for my red gown!!!!
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3923/14616645171_57bec6fcfc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ogC8nD)B1981.25.444 (https://flic.kr/p/ogC8nD) by LadyRosalindWoodville (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
That is just yummy!
Wow... amazing, but it looks like it would take all day to pull those puffs through the slashes! Well... unless they are faux puffs, anyway. Will yours be your actual chemise sleeves puffed through the openings, or an attached lining?
Quote from: Rani Zemirah on July 13, 2014, 08:04:05 PM
Wow... amazing, but it looks like it would take all day to pull those puffs through the slashes! Well... unless they are faux puffs, anyway. Will yours be your actual chemise sleeves puffed through the openings, or an attached lining?
Faux puffs. ;D There is evidence that they were used for things like this.
Quote from: Lady Rosalind on July 14, 2014, 09:34:33 AM
Quote from: Rani Zemirah on July 13, 2014, 08:04:05 PM
Wow... amazing, but it looks like it would take all day to pull those puffs through the slashes! Well... unless they are faux puffs, anyway. Will yours be your actual chemise sleeves puffed through the openings, or an attached lining?
Faux puffs. ;D There is evidence that they were used for things like this.
Careful so you do not out shine the queen ;D
Quote from: Gauwyn of Bracknell on July 14, 2014, 11:26:00 AM
Quote from: Lady Rosalind on July 14, 2014, 09:34:33 AM
Quote from: Rani Zemirah on July 13, 2014, 08:04:05 PM
Wow... amazing, but it looks like it would take all day to pull those puffs through the slashes! Well... unless they are faux puffs, anyway. Will yours be your actual chemise sleeves puffed through the openings, or an attached lining?
Faux puffs. ;D There is evidence that they were used for things like this.
Careful so you do not out shine the queen ;D
Of course, Gauwyn!
The faux puffs are HA, especially in the Tudor and Elizabethan periods, where there were frequently dozens of poufs on a single sleeve. Quite a time saver!
I am now sold on making some paned cap (demi) sleeves for a bodice....they go so well with sleeves of this type.
Should they be stuffed (puffy) or left to drape as they will?
Quote from: Lady Rosalind on July 14, 2014, 09:34:33 AM
Quote from: Rani Zemirah on July 13, 2014, 08:04:05 PM
Wow... amazing, but it looks like it would take all day to pull those puffs through the slashes! Well... unless they are faux puffs, anyway. Will yours be your actual chemise sleeves puffed through the openings, or an attached lining?
Faux puffs. ;D There is evidence that they were used for things like this.
Yes, I've seen that elsewhere. Definitely a time saver! I can't even imagine taking the time to do that every time the sleeves were worn! I suppose if you had an army of lady's maids to dress you, though, it wouldn't take much time at all. I guess that's one of the perks of being noble... ;) heheh
I found another one!
More Pinterest sleeves! (http://www.pinterest.com/jeannedsews/1-j-sleeve-pattern-drafting-designs-patron-modelar/)
This one is mostly NOT historical, but there are some really artistic sleeve treatments featured, as well as basic drafting tutorials.
Check this out:
(http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/87/61/83/876183f06502d3d104ac7d4673bc9aee.jpg)
(http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/4c/91/67/4c91673ba6c4a83caf5af176f995a950.jpg)
(http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/236x/94/95/e9/9495e90ae370bba18c9b142f93c5011b.jpg)
Also some links from Festive Attyre, etc. Good stuff!
Those are FUN! I LOVE the lace sleeve, and the strappy one is really neat, also!
For some reason the double cap treatment reminds me of something you might see a cute alien girl wearing on an old episode of Star Trek (which of course means that I love it, also!)... :D heheh
I like the strappy one too! Wonder what I could incorporate that in...
The lacy sleeve just gave me an idea for a future fantasy project..
Quote from: Rani Zemirah on August 05, 2014, 03:15:24 AM
For some reason the double cap treatment reminds me of something you might see a cute alien girl wearing on an old episode of Star Trek (which of course means that I love it, also!)... :D heheh
That was my thought, too! ;D I think it's b/c of the highly textured double knit fabric it's made from, and of course, the bright solid almost-red.
Very William Ware Theiss/Robert Blackman. But what I liked about it, for *Ren* costuming, is the idea of a double-layer doublet wing. Yes? Can't you see it?
And Lady K, if you like that lace engageante (is there a singular of
engageantes?), check out this Alexander McQueen confection (http://www.pinterest.com/pin/105412447502321685/) in brodierie anglaise!! (The picture is too huge to post here, alas.)
Crimson, aren't those straps great?
Love the lace sleeves!! definitely right up my alley!
Quote from: gem on August 05, 2014, 12:00:14 PM
But what I liked about it, for *Ren* costuming, is the idea of a double-layer doublet wing. Yes? Can't you see it?
Oh, yes... I can definitely picture it! And for either a mans doublet OR a ladies doublet bodice, with sleeves attached underneath!
Quote from: Rani Zemirah on August 06, 2014, 05:21:43 AM
Quote from: gem on August 05, 2014, 12:00:14 PM
But what I liked about it, for *Ren* costuming, is the idea of a double-layer doublet wing. Yes? Can't you see it?
Oh, yes... I can definitely picture it! And for either a mans doublet OR a ladies doublet bodice, with sleeves attached underneath!
It would certainly work....either a dressy man's doublet; definitely a lady's.....
What do you think? The upper wing longer...or the lower?
Quote from: Rowen MacD on August 06, 2014, 08:24:58 AM
Quote from: Rani Zemirah on August 06, 2014, 05:21:43 AM
Quote from: gem on August 05, 2014, 12:00:14 PM
But what I liked about it, for *Ren* costuming, is the idea of a double-layer doublet wing. Yes? Can't you see it?
Oh, yes... I can definitely picture it! And for either a mans doublet OR a ladies doublet bodice, with sleeves attached underneath!
It would certainly work....either a dressy man's doublet; definitely a lady's.....
What do you think? The upper wing longer...or the lower?
Several of Robert Dudley's portraits show multiple wing shoulder treatments.
http://humphrysfamilytree.com/Dudley/1st.earl.leicester.portraits.html (http://humphrysfamilytree.com/Dudley/1st.earl.leicester.portraits.html)