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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: Cilean on January 12, 2010, 02:34:31 PM

Title: Cartridge Pleating- A Wool Stuffing Moment!
Post by: Cilean on January 12, 2010, 02:34:31 PM
 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D


Hello All!

So I had the chance to show my work as I was finishing a skirt for a Spanish gown I am working on. I only had about 3 yards to make the skirt and I am a size 16 and 5 10 this means I can't use 45" material as my legs are 45" already, so I use 56" or more. This fabric while have a good drape was very thin and I have linen I got for $2.00 a yard at Joann's a few years ago in brilliant pumpkin.  So when I was going to do the cartridge pleating without the added wool it did not look very nice.

So here is what I began with:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_DmjLsKiy9Ww/S0zZegpcu1I/AAAAAAAACu0/PCOxhHb6K-o/s640/IMG_0463.JPG)


And then I cut 2 layers of wool 5" wide and aligned them with the edges of my fabrics, then sewn so that are between the 2 fabrics:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_DmjLsKiy9Ww/S0zZgP_hmLI/AAAAAAAACu4/2KDuWt95Ong/s512/IMG_0464.JPG)


This is what it looks like before I sewed them down in a pinch to show how the wool makes the 2 fabrics have more moxie
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_DmjLsKiy9Ww/S0zZg_r5FCI/AAAAAAAACvA/uTQU5yRErk0/s512/IMG_0468.JPG)

This is my fabrics all sewn together and on the lining side I have my guides for making the cartridge pleats:
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_DmjLsKiy9Ww/S0zZtkYZlOI/AAAAAAAACvU/YoPV78LUKYU/s640/172113.jpg)

Cartridge Pleats well Pleated with 30Lb Fishing Line, Sorry my camera was stolen and I am looking for a replacement:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_DmjLsKiy9Ww/S0zZiIrcujI/AAAAAAAACvE/3qceCtWj0Vs/s512/IMG_0469.JPG)

Here is another interior look at the pleats notice how the sit up and look smashing? LOL
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_DmjLsKiy9Ww/S0zZkuWwMbI/AAAAAAAACvM/WGphZnEl42o/s512/IMG_0472.JPG)

And Last but not least the Exterior Fashion Fabric (Of course Purple!!)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_DmjLsKiy9Ww/S0zZjd8vfTI/AAAAAAAACvI/9Ef0EZEcpus/s512/IMG_0471.JPG)

In the next few days I hope to get the whole outfit complete and you can then see how it looks on, but you can see that the cartridge pleats are really well showing and have a great roundness.  I have full coverage I typically get with 5 to 8 yards of fabric, but again this is but 3 and some change!


Cilean






Title: Re: Cartridge Pleating- A Wool Stuffing Moment!
Post by: gem on January 12, 2010, 04:23:49 PM
Cilean, that looks fabulous (and thank you for posting those pictures!)!!

Your fashion fabric looks pretty substantial, though.  I'm wondering if the wool padding would overwhelm a lighter-weight skirt (like, say, just a midweight linen)?
Title: Re: Cartridge Pleating- A Wool Stuffing Moment!
Post by: tigerlilly on January 13, 2010, 12:25:56 AM
That looks great!  I love your fabric.
Title: Re: Cartridge Pleating- A Wool Stuffing Moment!
Post by: Cilean on January 13, 2010, 01:41:47 AM


Well my fashion fabric is not flimsy, however I have used this same approach with Medium Weight Linen, 2 layers with wool in the middle and I wish since this was made for someone and I did not take pictures of it, but I used some fleece actually to add and it still was pretty nice, I will be using this later with wool as the fashion fabric and linen again as the lining.  This will not be until the end of the year and I am using I would call it summer weight wool. When I get to that project I will again take pictures!

Cilean


Title: Re: Cartridge Pleating- A Wool Stuffing Moment!
Post by: gem on January 13, 2010, 03:19:40 PM
Summer-weight wool for padding the pleats?  I actually have several long (60"x 1/8 yard) scraps of tropical weight wool I bought for samples for Promenade.  They're too small to do anything else with; this might be perfect.  (I got the gingham I ordered today! :D)
Title: Re: Cartridge Pleating- A Wool Stuffing Moment!
Post by: ladyharrogate on January 18, 2010, 10:49:26 AM
Beautiful work on the pleats!!!  I love cartridge pleating but don't always have the time to do it.  Makes such a difference in how it lays.  @Gem, I've used the double layer wool on both cartridge pleats and rolled pleats (German style) with silk dupioni.  It works beautifully and has a soft enough edge that it doesn't look hard.  A trick when using two layers, cut one layer a half inch wider than the other.  This helps cut back on a harsh edge at the bottom of your pleats, you can sometimes get that with thinner fabrics.  Another trick with the thinner fabrics is lining.  I line with a pretty contrasting fabric (just did a red silk dupioni lined with black taffeta.  Looks incredible when you dance and your skirt flips back!  It also helps cut back on some of the wear and tear and gives it some weight so the skirts stay in place.