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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: gem on February 26, 2010, 04:43:52 PM

Title: Adapting a corset pattern for the bodice of a gown
Post by: gem on February 26, 2010, 04:43:52 PM
So I'm thinking I might turn around and use my good-fitting corset as the basis for a gown. The corset is back-lacing, with the appropriate gap. For the gown, obviously, I don't want that gap. The corset has side-back seams I'd like to convert to lacing for the gown, but I'm not sure I want to just distribute the gap to the new lacing.  Does that make sense?

My first instinct is to cut the back on the fold, but I still think it's going to be a little small.  Any advice on how to adjust for the extra needed to close that gap *and* fit over a corset?

Gramercy!!
Title: Re: Adapting a corset pattern for the bodice of a gown
Post by: Kate XXXXXX on February 27, 2010, 08:07:51 AM
Measure the gap.  Add half that to the CB and eliminate the seam allowances.  You now have a closed single piece back.

Eliminate the side seams on both back and side back sections.  Take one QUARTER of the gap from each of the side and side back sections.  Add the seam allowances back in.  This will give you a gap of half the distance between the sections on the two side back lacing sections.

I've never seen a picture with a gap in the lacing at this point, so I'd be tempted just to put the lacing there without taking the gap out.  This will leave not a lot of space for adjustment, but will look fantastic.
Title: Re: Adapting a corset pattern for the bodice of a gown
Post by: operafantomet on February 27, 2010, 04:13:33 PM
Quote from: Kate XXXXXX on February 27, 2010, 08:07:51 AM
I've never seen a picture with a gap in the lacing at this point, so I'd be tempted just to put the lacing there without taking the gap out.  This will leave not a lot of space for adjustment, but will look fantastic.

I can never contribute to the actual seam questions, as I really don't have the knowledge in that field - but I can contribute with pictures! If I understood it correctly, you meant that the lacing in the side never shows a gap? They usually don't but there are some examples of a visible gap too:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze3/vasari1559b.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/roma/caravaggioroma1607.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/roma/ogentileschi1620s.jpg

I don't know if it was common in "everyday" dresses or a rare sight - maybe it was common to loosen the lower part a bit in the first months of pregnancy?
Title: Re: Adapting a corset pattern for the bodice of a gown
Post by: Kate XXXXXX on February 28, 2010, 01:05:12 AM
Not that there was never a gap, only that I hadn't seen one.   :)  Thanks for the pix.  Nice examples of gaps!  ;D  So make gaps if you want gaps, leave them out if you don't.  Your call, Gem!   :-*
Title: Re: Adapting a corset pattern for the bodice of a gown
Post by: Higgins on February 28, 2010, 07:53:37 AM
Good directions Kate!
Gaps or no gaps? It's up to you. Nothing looks better than a perfect fit, but rarely are we able to stay the same size. To keep things adjustable I have used the fashion fabric as an underlap behind lacing/grommetted sections so that any gaps visible would not really stand out. That way the gaps would only reveal the fabric on the main body of the outfit. Not sure it's HA but it works.
Title: Re: Adapting a corset pattern for the bodice of a gown
Post by: gem on February 28, 2010, 01:04:17 PM
Thanks, everyone!  Kate, the first part of your first post (how to measure for the solid back piece) made perfect sense, but I'm still puzzling over the second one. I think I will figure it out once I go to do it.

And it wasn't so much that I wanted *no* gap in the side-back openings... it was more that I think there's *too much* gap currently in the back, to simply transfer it directly to the side-backs and have the gown look like it fits.  But I enjoyed Anea's pictures anyway! :D