RenaissanceFestival.com Forums

Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: mellingera on May 29, 2008, 10:44:56 PM

Title: French Hood Help
Post by: mellingera on May 29, 2008, 10:44:56 PM
I thought it would be a great idea to make a french hood to wear on Saturday, now I wonder... Here are the basics I am operating under:
1. I am not cast, so I can do what I like.
2. I am not overly concerned with it being completly H/A. (Quasi-HA works fine for me, I just like to feel that I'm not so off base people run from me in fear :o )
3. I have a hour or so left to work on it tonight and a few more hours tomorrow...

Now to my question, I have 2 different trim options available to me cuz I can't buy anything else right now...
Which trim option do you think looks better for the so called "front billement"? Gold trim or pearl things? Gold trim actually matches the trim on the dress (leftovers ain't just for dinner!), but pearly things are pretty too...
(http://images.onesite.com/ladyselwyn.renspace.com/frenchhood_006.jpg) (http://images.onesite.com/ladyselwyn.renspace.com/frenchhood_008.jpg)
(http://images.onesite.com/ladyselwyn.renspace.com/frenchhood_009.jpg) (http://images.onesite.com/ladyselwyn.renspace.com/frenchhood_010.jpg)

(Doesn't my iron look so perty!)
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: FaireMare on May 29, 2008, 10:57:37 PM
Me no likie the perals... Love the other look.

STUNNING Hood btw.
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: mellingera on May 29, 2008, 11:03:09 PM
I think I was leaning that way too, I guess I just needed a little validation tonight. I was really stressing about it not turning out right, not just the trim items but the shape and such... Thank you SO much, FM!!! That made me feel really good! *hugs*
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: silverstah on May 29, 2008, 11:13:22 PM
Yep, I vote for the gold trim as well. :)  Looks beautiful!
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: FaireMare on May 29, 2008, 11:26:54 PM
I know I second guess myself too much... but I think we all do it.  Better to ask and feel better than to walk around all weekend thinking.... "Does this look as dumb as I think it does?".....  Ruins a party .

Where did you get your hood pattern or directions?  Like I said, its really nice looking.
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on May 29, 2008, 11:29:38 PM
Looks like the pattern is either from Lynn McMasters or possibly Margo.

Very nicely done by the way!!
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: mellingera on May 29, 2008, 11:43:49 PM
Quote from: FaireMare on May 29, 2008, 11:26:54 PM
Better to ask and feel better than to walk around all weekend thinking.... "Does this look as dumb as I think it does?".....  Ruins a party .

Exactly!!!   :D

QuoteWhere did you get your hood pattern or directions?  Like I said, its really nice looking.

Um, actually I made it myself... It started out as one of those "fun foam" visors, then I cut it down and used the extra to lengthen the sides, traced it onto posterboard, pinned it to a head band and just adjusted/trimmed/added to it until I it laid mostly flat like they do in drawings and portraits and came down like I wanted on the sides. Once I had the pattern, I used plastic canvas for the real deal, covered it with felt so the holes wouldn't show (actually got that idea from Orphena's directions for her pillbox hat), add fabric, and it just snowballed from there... Guess I should write down what I did exactly so I can do it again!  ;D
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: FaireMare on May 30, 2008, 12:16:58 AM
Do it again, taking pictures and create a "dairy"

Its stunning.
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Baroness Doune on May 30, 2008, 05:34:34 AM
I agree with everyone else, the gold trim is perfect.

One of the first things I noticed about the hood was how the shape lies close to the head just like the portraits and I knew it couldn't be from a currently available commercial pattern.  You have done an excellent job patterning that hood.  Hang on to that pattern!  It's a winner!  Could you share the pattern with the rest of us?  Please?
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: sealion on May 30, 2008, 06:58:01 AM
Quote from: FaireMare on May 30, 2008, 12:16:58 AM
Do it again, taking pictures and create a "dairy"

Its stunning.
Defintely do another and share your method. :)
And I vote for the gold trim, too, though pearls stitched to the gold trim would look nice.
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Queen Maggie on May 30, 2008, 09:17:19 AM
Both!
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Kate XXXXXX on May 30, 2008, 10:44:12 AM
Gold, gold, gold, gold, gold, gold, gold, gold...

I sound like a dwarf drinking song...   :P
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: mellingera on May 30, 2008, 11:01:26 AM
Quote from: Baroness Doune on May 30, 2008, 05:34:34 AM
I agree with everyone else, the gold trim is perfect.

One of the first things I noticed about the hood was how the shape lies close to the head just like the portraits and I knew it couldn't be from a currently available commercial pattern.  You have done an excellent job patterning that hood.  Hang on to that pattern!  It's a winner!  Could you share the pattern with the rest of us?  Please?

I will most gladly share the pattern! If you renmail me your address I can send you a paper tracing of it. I will definitely be making more (based on everyones favorable opinions) so I will make step by step directions; and share them with you, of course!

I have decided to go with the gold trim. I'll be sporting the finished product at VARF on Saturday, so if anyone is there say HI to me!
I am so encouraged by everyone's kind words! Hugs all around  :D
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Baroness Doune on May 30, 2008, 11:11:35 AM
Renmail sent!

Thank you!
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Lady Anne Clare on May 30, 2008, 03:25:35 PM
That's an amazing french hood!!!  I think it's one of the best I've seen.

I particularly like the gold trim on it.  Not feeling the pearls to much, sorry.

I opted not to have a french hood this year cause I couldn't find a pattern that had the shape I was looking for and didn't want to play with the shape of the patterns. 

Yours is exactly what I was looking for ;D

Absolutely great job!!
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Lady Ann of Draycott on May 30, 2008, 03:33:55 PM
First...Beautiful French Hood!

Second...I like the gold trim much better than the pearls.

Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: mellingera on May 30, 2008, 04:22:15 PM
Thanks everyone!!! You guys are the best!
I really have no problem mailing a copy of the pattern to anyone who wants one. I'll work on an electronic version to share, but until then...

Next question!!!
How long is the veil supposed to be? I feel like mine is too long, but I'm not going to mess with it on this one, but for the next one I was wondering...
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Baroness Doune on May 31, 2008, 06:30:27 AM
Drea suggests 22 inches long.
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/fhoodmake.html#veil (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/fhoodmake.html#veil)
I took a quick measurement and that length would reach to about 2 inches above the natural waist which is about where the waistline of a Tudor gown would be on me.

In The Tudor Tailor, the directions for the French hood suggest starting with a rectangle of fabric that is 24 inches long.  The actual pattern for the veil looks more like a sleeve, though.   

I also took a quick measurement of veil on my Flemish hood and the length of that one is 20 inches.  It reaches to about level with the lowest point of the armcye of the bodice.

Effigies are a good source for judging veil length, since they show the backside of the person.  Unfortunately, since we can't see the actual effigies, we are limited to what is available online.  Here is one resource:
http://plainattyre.blogspot.com/ (http://plainattyre.blogspot.com/)
Another:
http://www.tudoreffigies.co.uk/ (http://www.tudoreffigies.co.uk/)
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: mellingera on May 31, 2008, 10:09:53 PM
Thanks Baroness! Just as I thought, the current veil is a little on the long side based on that information... Now I know for the next one. I think I spent so much time obsessing on how it laid against the head, I totally ignored some of the other important pieces... Oops!

BTW- The hood was a huge success today at VARF,  ;D  thanks to everyone for their trimming assistance and kind words!
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: gem on June 01, 2008, 08:54:48 PM
Pictures?  Of *you* in it?  Hmmmm?
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: mellingera on June 01, 2008, 10:51:26 PM
Quote from: gem on June 01, 2008, 08:54:48 PM
Pictures?  Of *you* in it?  Hmmmm?

Just as soon as they are sent to me. We only carried around 1 camera, and the taker of the photos has yet to distribute them... And believe me, I check my email every 10 minutes looking for them! ???

**Got a few just now... Here is a full size shot so you can see the ensemble in its entirety, and a closer up head shot. I don't have any from the side, from the front it doesn't appear to lay as flat as it really does, if I can get a side shot done I'll post it too...
(http://images.onesite.com/ladyselwyn.renspace.com//garb_gallery/renaissance_026.jpg) (http://images.onesite.com/ladyselwyn.renspace.com/hat_close_up.jpg)
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Valencia on June 05, 2008, 10:39:47 AM
I love love love that french hood, it is amazing.
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on June 05, 2008, 11:30:11 AM
The French Hood is beautiful. What a wonderful finish to a lovely ensemble.
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: LadyStitch on June 05, 2008, 04:06:24 PM
There was some site that had HA  patterns for French hoods, but I lost the link in the great hard drive crash. I made one from there but used plastic canvas instead of buckram. I began to understand why Milliners were so well paid back then.  It's ALOT of hand work in one of these things.
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Valencia on June 06, 2008, 03:16:03 PM
I made one out of buckram and milliners wire; it was a pain to make. It looks ok, except it tends to lose it's shape a bit throughout the day. I'd like to try one out of maybe two layers of buckram, or heavier wire, or something else to make it sturdier, heavier, and less likely to contort. 
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: broadwaygal24601 on September 18, 2008, 03:26:26 PM
I'm getting ready to make one of these, any tips on cheap material to use for it that you can find at like Joann's or Hobby Lobby or Michaels?  I see suggestions of buckram, but I don't know if those stores carry the heavy enough weight for a hood...tips??
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Miranda on September 18, 2008, 04:01:26 PM
I've not seen buckram available at Joann's or Hobby Lobby.  They do have plastic canvas, which does work in a pinch.  If you can get proper buckram, it CAN be steamed, then stitched together into a double layered piece if it is too flimsy.
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: LaurenLee on September 18, 2008, 04:08:34 PM
I have good luck with plastic canvas.  I sew 18 gauge wire to both long sides - it bends and keeps its' shape very well after it's covered.  Since the fabric I cover my hoods with is usually pretty thick, no one knows the difference.

Oh,, and can I say that if you haunt the flea markets and garage sales, you can find the loveliest necklaces of pearls and gold beads, etc. that can be couched onto the hood, saving the trouble of sewing every single bead on individually.  And you can also find really great Christmas trims sometimes, and since you won't be running the thing through the washing machine, they hold up well if you tack them down firmly.

Lauren
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: broadwaygal24601 on September 19, 2008, 01:18:30 AM
I'll try the plastic canvas.  The other question I had was: do you sew the 2 pieces of fabric together, then turn it inside out and pull it over the plastic canvas kinda like putting a pillow case on a pillow...or do you take each piece, lay it on the plastic canvas and sew it together?
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Kate XXXXXX on September 19, 2008, 01:42:07 AM
I haven't tried plastic canvas, but I did my Timtex one like this: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/FrenchHood/making_a_french_hood.htm
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: LaurenLee on September 19, 2008, 06:22:41 AM
I do it like you wrote, by sewing the longer side, around the two points, and partially on the shorter side, then trim, turn, pull it over the plastic canvas/wire form, and slip-stitch the rest of the open seam.  If you are using velvet, here is one time where using a stretch velvet really helps!
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on September 19, 2008, 07:36:50 AM
(http://thumb9.webshots.net/t/69/569/5/82/92/2847582920025619629xEkJZb_th.jpg) (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2847582920025619629xEkJZb) The Anne Boleyn French Hood

For this one I used the Plastic canvas.

Kate!!  How well does the Timtex work??  Do you use a single or double layer, Millenary wire? ? I am curious to order a roll of it and use for the Elizabethan Tall Hats as well as for Cavalier Hats.

The Earl needs a new Tall Hat.
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Kate XXXXXX on September 19, 2008, 07:49:32 AM
I just used some wire I already had...  The Timtex didn't really need if for shape as you can steam iron it in place.  I didn't bother with wire on the Gable Hood:

(http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Katherine_of_Aragon/scored6.JPG)  (http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Katherine_of_Aragon/hatfrontcomplet.JPG)
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on September 19, 2008, 08:01:57 AM


One of the things I would like to take a class on at Costume College if I can make time to attend one,  is making the Gabled Hoods.

I have the SIX WIVES OF HENRY VIII series on DVD. In the first 3 episodes, the Gabled Hoods are absolutley gorgeous. Those are the kinds I want to learn to make. I have the TUDOR TAILOR and have drafted the French Hood patterns out of buckram. That book is a keeper for getting Henrican Tudor clothing right.
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: broadwaygal24601 on September 20, 2008, 02:36:48 AM
So, I made the base of my hood, now I have to add embellishments.  It looks really wide to me, but maybe that's just because I haven't put anything on it yet.  I used stretchy red velvet on it, which made it pretty easy to get the fabric straight on the front.  I think I'm going to attach it to a headband because it's not holding shape very well.  It does hold a basic shape, but not perfect...so I'm going to try the headband route.

I thought about putting a large pin in the middle -- is that at all period? 


I'm also torn on the ways to wear it because it looks really wide to me.  I'm stuck between between doing the traditional look:

(http://z.about.com/d/historymedren/1/0/a/F/2/09anneboleyn.jpg)

Or something like this:

(http://www.tvguide.com/images/pgimg/the-tudors-anwar16.jpg)

Opinions?
Title: Re: French Hood Help
Post by: Margaret on September 20, 2008, 08:02:23 AM
Personally, I like the traditional French Hood.

You know, I have noticed that if you have your hoods or hats on without being in garb or just look at them by themselves, they look huge.