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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: magyc64 on May 19, 2010, 09:56:08 AM

Title: Question about grommets and top ?
Post by: magyc64 on May 19, 2010, 09:56:08 AM
Just wondering if I really need to line or but bone in a top for a common outfit . Also what does anyone recommend to use instead of grommets, on a top or skirt. The input would be welcome , thank you.
Title: Re: Question about grommets and top ?
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on May 19, 2010, 10:13:14 AM
It all depends on the top. If a bodice, boning is nice for added support. Bodices in general are lined. One or two layers of Cotton Canvas Duck gives fashion fabric and lining for Bodices support, thus providing channels for boning. Grommets hold better when there are several layers in a  bodice. I take all my grommetting to my local Shoe Repair guy. I have not had one grommet pop out in the 8 years I have been going to him.

AS for Boning, most of us use heavy duty cable ties that you can find at a Lowe's, Fleet Farm, Home Depot found in the Industrial Plumbing section. They come 6 to 10 in a  package, are 34" long. 3/8" wide. Perfect for boning bodices and corsets.

For skirts, regular skirts are closed with the larger Skirt hook and eyes. For Overskirts to Noble ensembles, many of us use clasps that hook.

Welcome to the forums. This is a great place to share and learn.
Title: Re: Question about grommets and top ?
Post by: DonaCatalina on May 19, 2010, 10:32:31 AM
I don't use grommets except in corsets. I use buttonholes to lace up nearly everything.
But many people feel more secure with grommets. Go to a shoe repair place to have them set.

On my garb, the parts of the fabric under stress are interfaced between fabric and lining with heavy cotton duck tent fabric.
For bodices you can bone on either side of the holes for support.
I also set up skirts to lace closed at the waist band with a series of holes for size flucutaion
sort of like  the '6' end of a domino.
Title: Re: Question about grommets and top ?
Post by: operafantomet on May 19, 2010, 10:50:33 AM
Quote from: magyc64 on May 19, 2010, 09:56:08 AM
Just wondering if I really need to line or but bone in a top for a common outfit . Also what does anyone recommend to use instead of grommets, on a top or skirt. The input would be welcome , thank you.
You could tie the bodice together, like here:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/vecchio1512vienna.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/bordone1530s1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/unknown1515-20ven.jpg

Or do you mean an alternative hole patent?

As for lining a bodice, I would recommend it. It will protect the outer, finer fabric from your body (sweat etc), and make the bodice sturdier. As Lady Kathleen wrote, it will also make it easier to insert grommets/eyelets. With one fancy fabric alone, there will likely be stress leading to holes around the grommets (of course depending on the fabric).

You can cut the linen identical to the bodice, pin inner + outer fabric together, and sew the panels together. This is called flat lining, and it's no more work than sewing the actual bodice. If you cut two identical lining layers, you can sew vertical seams and insert stiffening (rigilene, steel, cable ties etc) and bone it.

As for skirts, I don't always line them. It depends on the style and the fabric used. Same goes for sleeves. but for bodices: always. It makes it so much more endurable.