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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: gem on May 27, 2010, 03:51:16 PM

Title: Piping on bodices (court gowns)?
Post by: gem on May 27, 2010, 03:51:16 PM
The Margo Anderson Elizabethan pattern recommends piping the edges of the bodice, but I'm having a hard time picturing what the finished product would look like. Does anyone have pictures of a gown bodice they've piped this way?

Also, are there options for the piping? Does it have to be bias tape + cord, or could you use something like "lip cord"?(or whatever you call it--ready-made cord with the flange attached:) 
(http://www.joann.com/images/11/80/5/xprd118053_m.jpg)

Thanks!
Title: Re: Piping on bodices (court gowns)?
Post by: Master James on May 27, 2010, 04:00:59 PM
Here is a picture of my wife's gown from last year.  Notice the maroon/pink piping around the edges of everything.  This is a Margo Anderson pattern gown and she does this with everything.  She uses piping like you show in your question, cord with cotton tab attached.

(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o47/rennpics/DSC06630.jpg)
Title: Re: Piping on bodices (court gowns)?
Post by: Lorraine on May 27, 2010, 04:20:10 PM
I know I've posted this pic before, but it's been awhile. The blue bodice was from a Margo Anderson pattern that I trimmed with piping made from homemade bias cut tape and some small polyester cording. The gold bodice is trimmed with home decor piping like you're showing. Just a close up so you can see the different kinds in use.

(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z257/bonnielorraine22/bodices/piping007.jpg)
Title: Re: Piping on bodices (court gowns)?
Post by: gem on May 27, 2010, 05:25:10 PM
Thank you both!!  Those pictures were extremely helpful. For some reason, I just couldn't picture how this would look/work, plus I am not at all confident in my piping skills. I think the upholstery cord will be easier for me to work with.

Master James, your lady's gown is gorgeous--and that partlet is SPECTACULAR! I know it's off topic, but do you have a close-up of that?

Bonnie, thank you! That's exactly what I needed to see. How did you have the exact picture I needed? LOL
Title: Re: Piping on bodices (court gowns)?
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on May 27, 2010, 08:28:48 PM
On my Red Elizabethan ensemble, I have piped the bodice, waist and shoulder treaments, and trim around the skirt hem edge. I LOVE piping!!

When sewing in piping, using an older Zipper foot works best. Then I apply the lining to the piece and use the sewed side as my sewing guide. That way, you don't see any of the binding attached. This trick works slick when doing panes for slops, collars, waist tabs and picadils, etc.

Happy piping, gem!!!
Title: Re: Piping on bodices (court gowns)?
Post by: irish on May 27, 2010, 08:54:33 PM
I love piping too!  :D
Everything I have ever made, always has piping!
Just makes it look neater.
Title: Re: Piping on bodices (court gowns)?
Post by: operafantomet on May 28, 2010, 01:51:04 AM
How period is piping when it comes to Elizabethan clothing? It was a popular feature in mid-Italy, but there they used the "clipped" version ( http://aneafiles.webs.com/renaissancegallery/doppia.html - scroll down). How was it applied in Elizabethan clothes?
Title: Re: Piping on bodices (court gowns)?
Post by: Genievea Brookstone on May 28, 2010, 06:05:18 AM
Here are some pictures of piping I used on a bodice I made last year.
(http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss89/Genievea/Picture017.jpg)(http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss89/Genievea/Picture015.jpg)
(http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss89/Genievea/Picture014.jpg)
Not period at all though I made this from a Simplicity pattern 3809.
Title: Re: Piping on bodices (court gowns)?
Post by: peacewing on May 28, 2010, 06:39:32 AM
Lady Kathleen, I'm a bit confused about "Then I apply the lining to the piece and use the sewed side as my sewing guide."
Could you explain? Is the piping outside of the lining/fabric seam?  ???
Title: Re: Piping on bodices (court gowns)?
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on May 28, 2010, 08:29:15 AM
On the right side of the fabric where piping was sewn at the edge, then pin on the lining. Turn over, pins side down(wrong side), then follow the stitching. That way, you already have a guide to sew the lining. Turn lining inside. You should have a clean edge.

I know. Better demonstrated than only explained in words.
Title: Re: Piping on bodices (court gowns)?
Post by: Genievea Brookstone on May 28, 2010, 09:30:36 AM
A Piping samich!

I pinned piping to the right side of fabric then pinned  the lining over the piping so its squished in the middle and also used a zipper foot to get right up to the piping itself.  Then turned the lining to the inside.
Title: Re: Piping on bodices (court gowns)?
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on May 28, 2010, 10:50:46 AM


Piping is easier with a curved corner rather than a pointed one. One has to make a small snip in order for the piping to fit nicely at a pointed corner. It's a bit tricky, but it can be done to get the best results.
Title: Re: Piping on bodices (court gowns)?
Post by: Master James on May 28, 2010, 11:29:46 AM
Quote from: gem on May 27, 2010, 05:25:10 PM
Thank you both!!  Those pictures were extremely helpful. For some reason, I just couldn't picture how this would look/work, plus I am not at all confident in my piping skills. I think the upholstery cord will be easier for me to work with.

Master James, your lady's gown is gorgeous--and that partlet is SPECTACULAR! I know it's off topic, but do you have a close-up of that?

Bonnie, thank you! That's exactly what I needed to see. How did you have the exact picture I needed? LOL

Gem - It is actually not a partlet but a fully blackworked chemise done by Lady Maerwynn.  Here is the best close up I have of it:

(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o47/rennpics/DSC06622.jpg)
Title: Re: Piping on bodices (court gowns)?
Post by: Lady Isabella on May 28, 2010, 03:29:29 PM
OMG! That is BEAUTIFUL!
Title: Re: Piping on bodices (court gowns)?
Post by: peacewing on May 28, 2010, 03:35:10 PM
Lady Kathleen & Genievea Brookstone, this is a brilliant way! Thank you very much for explaining it so clearly. I've always had trouble, and this is such an easy way to approach it. Thank you again!  ;D