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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: DonaCatalina on June 04, 2010, 04:41:06 PM

Title: Slashed doublets, sleeves etc.
Post by: DonaCatalina on June 04, 2010, 04:41:06 PM
Someone noticed that sevweral things I have made have slashing as part of the embellishment. They asked why I used extra long buttonholes in stead of just fray check.
My answer: Buttonhole stitching doesn't wash out, but fray check eventually does.
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x71/Dona_Catalina/Middlefaire%202009/DonJuanMiddlefaire2009.jpg)
Title: Re: Slashed doublets, sleeves etc.
Post by: Evie McCann on June 04, 2010, 06:24:47 PM
QuoteButtonhole stitching doesn't wash out, but fray check eventually does.

Amen to that!!!
Title: Re: Slashed doublets, sleeves etc.
Post by: gem on June 04, 2010, 06:45:13 PM
There is a spectacular portrait in Tudor Tailor showing a slashed doublet bound with satin stitch (it *could* be cord, but it doesn't look like it):

(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17480040/388112501.jpg)

And here's a closeup of the sleeve:

(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17480040/388112505.jpg)

I was thinking how time-consuming that must have been in period--but how *simply* it could be done by machine today!

...Not by me, of course. By somebody else. LOL ;D
Title: Re: Slashed doublets, sleeves etc.
Post by: operafantomet on June 05, 2010, 02:59:58 AM
Quote from: gem on June 04, 2010, 06:45:13 PM
There is a spectacular portrait in Tudor Tailor showing a slashed doublet bound with satin stitch (it *could* be cord, but it doesn't look like it):

(...)

And here's a closeup of the sleeve:

(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17480040/388112505.jpg)

I was thinking how time-consuming that must have been in period--but how *simply* it could be done by machine today!

...Not by me, of course. By somebody else. LOL ;D

Given its 3D nature (how raised the gold is from the black), I would have guessed it is gold cord piping. Seems like a quicker option than stitching, and it could also better explain the gold at the shoulder seam and doublet opening.
Title: Re: Slashed doublets, sleeves etc.
Post by: Kate XXXXXX on June 05, 2010, 03:09:15 AM
Gold embroidery thread over a thicker cord filler would do it nicely...
Title: Re: Slashed doublets, sleeves etc.
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on June 05, 2010, 08:32:55 AM


I concur with Kate. From the portrait, tghat looks like cord sewn over with gold thread.

I cheat and use piping. I have the upper part of sleeves to finish for Toki Bloodaxe in that style. The rest of the Doublet and Bottom part of the sleves has the slashed look done in panels. Similar to making paned slops.
Title: Re: Slashed doublets, sleeves etc.
Post by: operafantomet on June 05, 2010, 09:03:13 AM
Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on June 05, 2010, 08:32:55 AM

I concur with Kate. From the portrait, tghat looks like cord sewn over with gold thread.


But wouldn't that be period piping? I thought cord decorated with either fabric or thread, applied to seams and edges, were piping. But maybe I'm using the term wrong.
Title: Re: Slashed doublets, sleeves etc.
Post by: Kate XXXXXX on June 05, 2010, 09:27:33 AM
Piping is usually wrapped in fabric or is a bullion cord sewn onto a finished edge after.  Here we're talking about finishing the edge with a satin stitch over a filler cord such as a heavy crochet cotton in a blending colour.

I'd probably do the stitching first and then cut the sashes rather than slash and then stitch.  Much more stable for the stitching.
Title: Re: Slashed doublets, sleeves etc.
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on June 05, 2010, 10:32:28 AM


That sounds feasable, Kate. Iwill have to do tht on a scrap and see how it works before I do that procedure on the actual fabric.
Title: Re: Slashed doublets, sleeves etc.
Post by: Kate XXXXXX on June 05, 2010, 01:12:17 PM
Get a special needle for metallic embroidery thread.  That stuff can be a bugger to sew with!  And buy a good quality thread.  Madeira is nice.  I've had more trouble with the Gutterman and the Sulky metallic threads.
Title: Re: Slashed doublets, sleeves etc.
Post by: DonaCatalina on January 29, 2011, 01:15:26 PM
French, about 1575
(http://www.getty.edu/art/collections/images/l/24183401.jpg)
Title: Re: Slashed doublets, sleeves etc.
Post by: Syrilla on January 30, 2011, 04:51:11 PM
Ooh, love those slashes!