So as previously mentioned I'm altering a gown I already have to make it more comfortable and period accurate. I didn't make this gown myself, I bought it.
I've been having trouble with my corset (which I swear to God I will replace with a supportive kirtle someday) when doing anything that takes more air - going up stairs, singing, etc. Asthma + seriously out of shape + wearing a corset I bought when I was 16. So I thought I might whip out a quick corset using the existing one as a pattern and just enlarging it a bit, but first I wanted to make sure I could still get the gown closed without lacing myself within an inch of my life (I bought the gown when I was 17).
The gown laces up fine and I have no trouble with squishing or squeezing, but I noticed that it's really tight around the shoulders/arms/shoulder blades. It also really restricts my arm movement. I think I'm just noticing this now because the gown had such heavy sleeves before that I never tried to move my arms much in the first place, and I always attributed the tightness to the corset. I loosened the lacing at the top to see if it was my larger-than-when-the-gown-was-made bust that was causing the tightness, but it didn't make any difference; it just made the gown gape at the neck.
So my main question is, how can I fix the tightness? I can't figure out why it's so tight or where the problem is, so I don't even know where to start on my own.
Thanks!
I'm sorry I can't be of help but your subject line made me think of this:
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL610/4653295/17524208/388692032.jpg)
Quote from: PrincessSara on June 18, 2010, 01:49:29 PM
... I noticed that it's really tight around the shoulders/arms/shoulder blades. It also really restricts my arm movement.
So my main question is, how can I fix the tightness? I can't figure out why it's so tight or where the problem is, so I don't even know where to start on my own.
This may sound silly but where does the tightness come from?
Does it come from lifting your arms out ward and the tightness is in the shoulder area of the arm?
Does it come trying to move your arms forward, and it pulls in the back across the shoulder blades?
Does it feel tight across the upper chest when you pull your shoulder back or does it feel like your shoulders are being pulled back (Ie like your shoulder blades are wanting to touch)?
Does the sleeves feel like you have a blood pressure cuff on your bisep?
Each of those questions would point to a different fitting issue that can be fixed. We just need to know where your "tightness" is coming from in order to relive it. :)
The upper sleeves themselves are not tight, but they feel tight if my arms are anywhere but hanging at my sides. The sleeves and shoulders feel tight if I move my arms forward, backward, or up. When I wear the dress, even for a few minutes, I get sore between my shoulder blades whether I'm moving or not. And when I move my arms back, the armsceye bites into the back of my arms.
Sounds like the shoulders are way too narrow.
Kate, Can you think of a way to fix this on a made garment? I know how to fix this on a toile but not ready made. Unless there was a way to add fullness somewhere in the shoulder area, I'm not sure if it can be saved.
Sara: what is the distance from the neckline on the dress to where the shoulder point would be? And what is the distance on you from where the neckline should hit and your shoulder point?
What about adding a modesty panel in the back lacing so that the dress doesn't have to lace closed, and a stomacher in the front? In order to do this you would have to remove the skirt, but this would give you the extra room you needed both back and front.
I like Chris's idea, and here's another really radical one: what about making the sleeves detachable? It might not be the most h/a thing for the gown, but it would eliminate the pulling pretty much everywhere and give you back complete mobility.
What type of gown is it? Can we see pictures?
Quote from: LadyStitch on June 23, 2010, 09:42:31 AM
Kate, Can you think of a way to fix this on a made garment? I know how to fix this on a toile but not ready made. Unless there was a way to add fullness somewhere in the shoulder area, I'm not sure if it can be saved.
Nor am I... You could try slashing it down the upper back over the shoulder blades, inserting some fabric, and covering it with trim. Seeing the dress on the body in question would help.
To quote my tutor, "A mulitude of sins can be hidden with trim."
I agree seeing the dress on the body would help. That way we can "wrinkle" read. ;)
Quote from: LadyStitch on June 23, 2010, 01:12:48 PM
To quote my tutor, "A mulitude of sins can be hidden with trim."
I agree seeing the dress on the body would help. That way we can "wrinkle" read. ;)
Watch this movie and pay close attention to the fighting scenes. The backs of the doublets have fabric inserts at the 'pull' points of the back and shoulder blades. Alas, being black on black they are not easy to see. But as Kate suggested, I believe this would be your best and easiest fix without seeing pics.
Should I change my motto from Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
to Trimum peccamenes multifariam texit?
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51apHtaNpNL.jpg)