So, I'm going to be working on my bodices for the summer, and have absolutely no idea what I'm doing when it comes to boning. I can't afford to buy oodles and oodles of it, (I can probably get what I need to make the pieces) so I want to do things right.
Do any of you have suggestions for other things I could be working with in my test pieces? Or, any important advice I should know before I start working with the boning?
I'm a novice when it comes to most of these things, so I reallly appreciate having you guys around to ask questions.
I use zip ties instead of boning. For one thing it is far cheaper, and easier to come by. That is you can get if from just about anywhere. For the bigger/wider "boning" I get the "industrial" zip ties. These can be found as an electrician's shop, or for a slightly smaller version of it, you can get it from Lowes or Home Depot.
When I made my bodice I did a lot of research... on this very forum section. There is a wealth of information here if you have the time to find it ;)
The main points I found were to use a dremel (if you have one) to file down the edges. Then run the edge through the flame of a lighter or candle once or twice to help reduce any sharp edges.
I used biased tape to create the "sleeves" for the boning on the inside of my last bodice. Or, if you are lining it, you could sew two lines to create a channel or sleeve for the boning to slide into.
If you want to practice, I recommend using the smaller zip ties. Again, they are cheap and easy to come by.
Hope that helps!
I had never thought of using those! We have tons laying around the house...I may put them to good use! Thanks for that info! I will probably have to shell out a pretty penny for boning strong enough to support me (I am not a little girl) so knowing what I can practice with is wonderful help!
The good cable ties aren't cheap, exactly, but they're affordable and easier to work with than steel boning you have to order to the right size. I'm not sure what value there would be in using the flimsier ties even to "practice," since you won't get a good sense of whether or not your mockup fits properly unless you're using something analogous to the final materials. The cable ties you want are these, on the left, not the green zip ties on the right:
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/4707019/282367920.jpg)
They do come in varying strengths, and some aren't as strong as others. Those slightly flimsier ones I *do* use for mockups, because at least they're the right size. The trouble is, it can be hard to tell, as a beginner, which ones are sturdier.
Here is the boning pattern I use for my front-lacing bodices:
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/4707019/260713176.jpg)
If you look closely, the channels to be boned are marked with Xs. The wider, unmarked channel near the front edge is for the grommets.
I use two layers of heavy cotton canvas (Hobby Lobby, $7/yard) sandwiched between two outer layers of fashion fabric (typically tapestry on one side and corduroy on the other).
Lady B is right. There are at least two *excellent* long threads on this forum on bodice construction. They are well worth looking up.
Another excellent resource is former forum member Baroness Doune's website on bodice construction (http://www.karen.htmlcreators.com/renbodice.html).
I use 1/4" Electrician's fishing tape... it's steel, comes in 25 foot rolls, and can be cut with wire cutters to whatever length you need.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xgg/R-100660167/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
I cut it to length, round the edges of the ends by filing, put a small bead of hi-temp hot glue on the ends, then wrap the whole thing in electrical tape to prevent rusting. It works very well, and I can usually get about 2 bodices out of a single roll.
As a note, I use the nylon zip ties on the sides to allow for a bit of bendability, but front and back are steel and made from fish tape
I use Trenslo trifold plastic boning for Elizabethan type corsets. I'm experimenting with a comparison between that and big cable ties, and I made my toile for my 18th C stays using the cable ties because I had them... I very much prefer the boning. I get a finish much more analogous to baleen (whalebone), and it's stiffer and lighter and takes up a lot less room! It's also a lot easier to cut.
Down the laced opening I use 5/8" steel boning that I also buy by the roll. 25m of each costs slightly under £25, so works out cheaper for me than the cable ties, and much easier to find! 20m of spiral steel for Victorian and modern corsets cost me less than £20. I did have to buy the caps for that. I usually cut the bones to length, round off the ends, and wrap them in plumbers PTFE tape.
wow I'm noting this cause I just make a large seam. I have no ties or money to buy boning, so I just fold old stiff fabric and add it where I need it.
Duct ties, definitely. I've used them for quite a while and they work wonders. You'll want an inner layer too between the facing and the lining fabrics. I personally love canvas (it's sort of like "buckram" which was used in period) but I know some people prefer wool. If you add the channels to the innerlayer/lining, you won't see the boning channels on the facing for the bodice.
I used feather...whatever boning once and wasnt too happy with it. So I went with the cable ties from there one. But I was talking to a woman in JoAnns the other day and she told me that she goes to Home Depot in the Lumber section and gets the green ties that are usually around the wood. She said that they are free and you can find them every where around there. They would be great for a cheap test piece.
I'm liking the idea of the fishing tape.
To be honest, I'm so utterly confused by the corset stuff that any suggestions at all are welcome.
If I may ask: What kind of patterns did you start out with for corsets/bodices? I have a few patterns, (been playing with McCalls 4696 lately) but would love to know what your opinions of simple to make and at least somewhat H/A are. Anything that I can find to help me improve my sewing skills.
I did McCalls 4107 http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4107-products-1009.php?page_id=493 (http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4107-products-1009.php?page_id=493). The one with the ruffle on the bottom. After finishing it, there were several things that I wish I had done differently.
About a month ago I did the Simplicity 9966 http://www.simplicity.com/p-2627-costumes.aspx (http://www.simplicity.com/p-2627-costumes.aspx) view A. Long before I started my second bodice I did a lot of research on tips, hints and how-to's.
There is a shop owner at most festivals that I had bought bodices from before. My first bodice I bought from her after the first year started giving me bruises when I would wear it. When I finally looked into it, I discovered the source of my severe discomfort. She was using the plastic bands they use to bind boxes together with. Once they get bent there is no straightening them out.
This is what I pulled out of that bodice:
(http://i932.photobucket.com/albums/ad162/eday52/100_1619.jpg)
(http://i932.photobucket.com/albums/ad162/eday52/100_1621.jpg)
Quote from: Sami on June 22, 2010, 11:03:53 PM
I'm liking the idea of the fishing tape.
To be honest, I'm so utterly confused by the corset stuff that any suggestions at all are welcome.
If I may ask: What kind of patterns did you start out with for corsets/bodices? I have a few patterns, (been playing with McCalls 4696 lately) but would love to know what your opinions of simple to make and at least somewhat H/A are. Anything that I can find to help me improve my sewing skills.
I don't think they make the one I started with and it's not one I would use now any. (Darts?!? Agh!)
Simplicity's Elizabeth 3782 would be awesome. Just cut out only the bodice section and not the skirts. It's a pretty straight forward bodice and works well.
Quote from: ladybootlegger on June 23, 2010, 09:59:45 AM
I did McCalls 4107 http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4107-products-1009.php?page_id=493 (http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4107-products-1009.php?page_id=493). The one with the ruffle on the bottom. After finishing it, there were several things that I wish I had done differently.
About a month ago I did the Simplicity 9966 http://www.simplicity.com/p-2627-costumes.aspx (http://www.simplicity.com/p-2627-costumes.aspx) view A. Long before I started my second bodice I did a lot of research on tips, hints and how-to's.
There is a shop owner at most festivals that I had bought bodices from before. My first bodice I bought from her after the first year started giving me bruises when I would wear it. When I finally looked into it, I discovered the source of my severe discomfort. She was using the plastic bands they use to bind boxes together with. Once they get bent there is no straightening them out.
This is what I pulled out of that bodice:
(http://i932.photobucket.com/albums/ad162/eday52/100_1619.jpg)
(http://i932.photobucket.com/albums/ad162/eday52/100_1621.jpg)
yep, I've seen that junk used in place of boning. It just does not hold up, and can rip right out of the garment, especially if the boning channels are made in the fashion fabric and lining, instead of in two layers of interlining.
Go with the duct ties instead, round the tips with a dremel (or in my case, a nail shaper), and things should hold and wear fairly well.
On one bodice I even used plastic butter knives... filed down of course. That also seemed to work, but I prefer the zip ties.
Quote from: isabelladangelo on June 23, 2010, 10:03:45 AM
Quote from: Sami on June 22, 2010, 11:03:53 PM
I'm liking the idea of the fishing tape.
To be honest, I'm so utterly confused by the corset stuff that any suggestions at all are welcome.
If I may ask: What kind of patterns did you start out with for corsets/bodices? I have a few patterns, (been playing with McCalls 4696 lately) but would love to know what your opinions of simple to make and at least somewhat H/A are. Anything that I can find to help me improve my sewing skills.
I don't think they make the one I started with and it's not one I would use now any. (Darts?!? Agh!)
Simplicity's Elizabeth 3782 would be awesome. Just cut out only the bodice section and not the skirts. It's a pretty straight forward bodice and works well.
I made the whole dress of 3782 and it was pretty easy. But the bodice is lightly bones, so if you want more you will need to draft/sew in more channels for boning.
I've made McCall's 4107, but if you're looking to make something with really great boning, it wouldn't be my first choice. The princess seams distort the fit so that the bodice curves over the bust. A "properly" boned Ren bodice does the exact opposite--squishing and lifting the bust. Lorraine one posted fabulous comparison pix of a bodice with princess seams vs one without, and I'll see if I can find those for you.
ETA: Ok, this thread has Lorraine's pictures (http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php?topic=6107.0) of two similar bodices--one from McCall's 4107 with princess seams and featherweight boning, and one from an Alter Years pattern with no princess seams and spring steel boning. The difference is dramatic. (And this other thread (http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php?topic=6965.0) is another good resource for all things bodice. Four fabulous pages of information!)
You've mentioned you're confused about the whole bodice/corset thing. You first need to decide what it is you want/need.
A corset is UNDERWEAR. Heavily boned, meant to give the proper silhouette under a gown. There are lots of variations, but this is a good example:
(http://www.farthingales.on.ca/images/elizabethan_corset/image034.jpg)
See all those closely-spaced parallel boning channels? They're there to give the ideal, flat-front/conical Elizabethan shape, and you probably won't need one unless you're also planning to make a full gown ensemble.
A bodice is OUTERWEAR, and when we talk Renfaire bodices, we usually mean something that isn't always necessarily historically accurate. I *think* this is probably what you want, since it's sort of the quintessential woman's garb for Fair. Worn with a chemise and peasant skirts, it will give you the fun wench look.
(http://images.patternreview.com/sewing/patterns/simplicity/5582/5582.jpg)
They typically have a little less boning than a corset, and are often designed to flatter (not flatten!) your assets.
This is actually a decent pattern (Simplicity 5582) because it lacks the princess seams and darts that a lot of the commercial bodice patterns have. IIRC, this is the bodice pattern used in Baroness Doune's link I posted earlier.
Now, the construction of bodices and corsets is pretty similar, and corsets don't have to be made out of plain fabrics. I made one from some gorgeous damask linen, and it's so pretty that I *do* wear it as outerwear (http://elizabethcbunce.files.wordpress.com/2010/05/with-greyhound1.jpg?w=366&h=514) (scandal!). I actually really like that pattern--it went together relatively easily and it fits beautifully. It's http://Simplicity 2621 (http://www.simplicity.com/p-1576-costumes.aspx), and you can see from the pattern photo that she's clearly in her underwear. The pattern calls for a busk (a wide strip of wood down the center front to give the flattest shape possible), but I didn't use one--just boned the whole thing with cable ties.
My bodices, OTOH, are made from a pattern copied off a well-fitting bodice I had bought at Fair but that had worn out.
My suggestion is to look at lots of pictures before you run out and buy a pattern/fabric. Get an idea of what you want and then buy the materials to match. OR buy any pattern and follow the instructions and don't second-guess yourself. :)
Good luck!!
Great post, Gem!
Quote from: operafantomet on June 23, 2010, 04:59:04 PM
Great post, Gem!
No kidding! That was great information, Gem!
(blush) :D Gramercy!
Okay, so I knew a girl who would use old saw blades as boning, it was free and she would make sure the blades were dull, and I used to use the ties that HD would hold the wood for transfer. Again cheap and easy.
So with this said I do have steel boning from this store and Lacis, however Lacis is not carrying from what I can see :-X Grannd Garb had lovely things as well but they are sadly out of business.
http://www.corsetmaking.com/CMSpages/CMShome.html (http://www.corsetmaking.com/CMSpages/CMShome.html)
Also there is Richard the Thread:
www.richardthethread.com (http://www.richardthethread.com)
Cilean
I live in Los Angeles, and just found Richard the Thread. I drove down yesterday, the manager is SO nice. I bought busks and boning, and felt up all the fabrics. The only bad thing is the boning has to be bought by the dozen for each size, which I don't mind, and if an order is place online, it has a minimum of $35 (easy enough to do with busks!) I haven't had a chance to go through the catalog yet, but they have GREAT stuff.
I thought this might be a good thread to ask my question. I'm new garbing and to sewing so I might be be in over my head. :)
I like the look of a bodice without the lacing in the front however (for the most part) I won't have help for lacing up the back. I have seen a few photos where the lacing is only on the side but a) is this completely non-h/a b) would this be appropriate for upper middle class and c) would I place the boning similar to the above posting by Gem?
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.