I believe this is something I might enjoy so I'm going to jump in and give it a go! My mother has a sewing machine so initial costs will only be fabric and thread. She has the machine, rulers, cutting & other utensils, but she herself is a VERY BASIC seamstress.
I have watched several YouTube "lessons" on beginning techniques. I have watched how to make an "eye pillow" filled with flaxseed and spearmint. It looked minimal in supplies and difficulty.
I want to ramp up to creating my own garb but all signs point to BABY STEPS. Starting out small and simple and working UP to costuming.
One question I did have is this: In this modern day and age, is it far less expensive for a girl of ample size to purchase her garb from a retailer or make it from scratch? I've found a complete set (irish dress and chemise) for approximately $75.00. Can they be made by hand cheaper? What with fabrics, patterns, and not really understanding what I'm jumping into? :P
I realize I won't have the satisfaction of having my very own garb that I created, though, AND this is why I am so anxious to get started learning the ways of the seamstress! I think that sense of accomplishment and level of appreciation of my own work would be very rewarding!
Best of luck. It is an extremely fun (and sometimes aggravating) experience.
It really is a balancing act. It will take time before you are to a point where you can really do the stuff that can show off your assets, but you can just buy it BUT you are paying for someone else's time learning.
There is nothing like being asked where you bought something and you can respond with "I made it myself!" Like you said baby steps will do wonders. Something that I had a professional dance theater costumer tell me. The way she practiced techniques was to find some silly home project and make things using that technique. She wanted to work on her pleats so she made a pleated bed skirt. This meant when she got pleating a fabric for dance skirts she was comfortable making pleats. She made place mats to practice bias tape. To do mitred corners she made bound napkins and large place mats. This way she had Christmas gifts for people, AND she could practice.
I have to say the best first garment to try is a peasant blouse. You learn seams, pressing, making casings, and running elastic.
Something that has helped me through the years is to make a technique book. As I learn something new I pin/glue/staple an example of what I did and directions on how I did it in my own words. (typed or hand written, doesn't matter as long as you did it.) That way when you are on a different project but can't remember how you did something, you can can look in your book, and there it is. ;D
Goodluck.
I am on the thin side and very long waisted. I've always had trouble getting clothes to fit correctly. So when I started looking at bodices and then at their corrsponding price tags, I just couldn't do it. I couldn't spend that kind of cash on something I knew wouldn't fit me in the least. And bodices need to fit a girl.
So I jumped in and started making garb. Like Lady Stitch says, it's great to say "I made it myself". And you'll never run into the situation of... I like it, but I wish it was a different color/style/longer/shorter/more lace/less frill... etc.
But the part I like the best is the fact that it fits me!!! Even if it costs a bit more to make than to buy, I get what I want and it looks SO much better on me than anything off the rack would.
It may not be cheaper to make by hand, but when you make it yourself you have control over what fabrics you choose and you can adjust the pattern to fit you specifically (always a good thing, especially with bodices). And, like others have said, it feels so good to say you made it yourself!
Quote from: bookwench on July 21, 2010, 11:11:09 AM
It may not be cheaper to make by hand, but when you make it yourself you have control over what fabrics you choose and you can adjust the pattern to fit you specifically (always a good thing, especially with bodices). And, like others have said, it feels so good to say you made it yourself!
Plus, it'll be cheaper in the future, once you've learned the basics and can make yourself any kind of garb instead of buying it.
Quote from: LadyStitch on July 21, 2010, 10:31:53 AM
Something that has helped me through the years is to make a technique book.
I didn't even think of that! But boy I'm sure you've referred to it countless times! I'm glad I have such knowledgeable ladies to start me off on the right foot! Learning from others makes things all the more painless! Thank you, thank you!
Quote from: operafantomet on July 21, 2010, 11:30:06 AM
Quote from: bookwench on July 21, 2010, 11:11:09 AM
It may not be cheaper to make by hand, but when you make it yourself you have control over what fabrics you choose and you can adjust the pattern to fit you specifically (always a good thing, especially with bodices). And, like others have said, it feels so good to say you made it yourself!
Plus, it'll be cheaper in the future, once you've learned the basics and can make yourself any kind of garb instead of buying it.
Exactly!
Quote from: operafantomet on July 21, 2010, 11:30:06 AM
it'll be cheaper in the future, once you've learned the basics and can make yourself any kind of garb instead of buying it.
That is what I'm thinking as well. Because once you HAVE the patterns and you've learned the techniques, changing up the colors to make brand new items is a breeze and a lot less expensive after the initial purchases! Great thought!
Quote from: hennahair72 on July 21, 2010, 10:02:54 AM
One question I did have is this: In this modern day and age, is it far less expensive for a girl of ample size to purchase her garb from a retailer or make it from scratch? I've found a complete set (irish dress and chemise) for approximately $75.00. Can they be made by hand cheaper? What with fabrics, patterns, and not really understanding what I'm jumping into? :P
If you make the same dress and chemise it will cost you more. Mainly because you aren't making 40 of them! And like many people have said there is so much satisfaction that comes with doing it yourself. However, if later you want a nobles dress then I am sure you have noticed how much they cost to be made (and they are absolutely FABULOUS)! But when you do it yourself you can take the time to find the right fabric on sale, learn the techniques, find bargains, hunt at goodwill stores, etc. and be able to make it for MUCH less. When I started mine I really had no idea what I wanted, just that I wanted a noble outfit. My surroundings would be my inspiration. I would see something in a store and say "Hey, that's what I need!" If you order a dress then all of that stuff needs to be decided upon pretty quick. I am one partlet away from finishing mine and I have been working on it for about a year! And I am SOOOO happy I did it myself. Is it as good as the wonderful seamstresses on this board? No. But it's MINE! ;D
Oh, and start your stash now so when you do get an inkling to make something you already have that 50% off fabric in a bin! ;)
Welcome to FA!
Quote from: Dinobabe on July 21, 2010, 03:03:18 PM
Welcome to FA!
Thank you so much for the advice and tips. :) I have been sneaking some YouTube video watching at work on basic sewing (elastic waistbands, scrunchies, t-shirts, eye pillows, etc.). I mean, why would they have given me speakers and internet accesss if they didn't expect this from me? :P
But, anyways, I have gotten myself more and more excited with every reply in this forum and every YouTube video I watch. LOL Even got my mother excited. She called me a few minutes ago at work asking me if I knew there were remnants for cheaper than yards and to look for scraps to save up. :P
Hello, welcome, congratulations, and good luck!! This is the best place in the world to be if you're interested in making garb. I have literally learned how to sew from these forums.
I used to hang out on a mundane sewing board, where the other seamstresses always CLAIMED it was cheaper for them to make things themselves. But what you have to keep in mind is that YOUR TIME is valuable, as well. Last summer I had a formal event to attend and needed a pretty top to wear. I was balking at paying ~$70 for something at the store, and my mom suggested that I make one. I quickly realized it would take me a lot more than $70 worth of my time (not to mention the cost of materials/patterns) to make a blouse! (I ended up finding a top for $35; even better!)
I've reached a point where I really want to make everything (altho' I still will buy pieces if I fall in love with them!), so of course I'm strongly an advocate for MAKE IT YOURSELF! ;D But: learning how to fit can be pretty challenging, and it's a crucial component of garb: it must fit properly, whether it's bought or made.
I think you *could* make an Irish dress and chemise for less than $75 (not counting your labor costs), but it will take some careful sourcing of materials, which can be trickier as a beginner since you might not know where to get things for better prices. Start with a 99 cent pattern (Hancock, JoAnn, and Hobby Lobby have near-constant sales on patterns from Simplicity, McCall's, and Butterick). See if you can find inexpensive cotton gauze, broadcloth, or muslin (~2-3/yard) for the chemise, and then use the rest of your budget for the gown itself.
That said, you may not WANT to use the cheapest materials you can find for your first foray into garb. Quality materials make sewing so much easier!
I do think that an Irish gown is a very beginner-friendly project... but I could be biased! My first garb was an Irish gown from a now out-of-print Simplicity pattern:
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/7547261/98888666.jpg)
I made it from velveteen that probably cost ~$7.00/yard (for a long time, I refused to buy fabric that cost more than $10/yard), plus maybe one yard of quilting cotton to line the bodice. The clasps I had in my stash (I thought they'd be easier than grommets), and the chemise was purchased.
Signing up to receive coupons from the larger stores (if you're lucky enough to have them in your area) is one of the best ways to save money. Keep an eye on the sales, too; often they'll discount some of their fabrics by 40-50% off, and you can stock up.
I'm not sure anyone has mentioned this yet, but even so it bears repeating: Natural fibers are your friend. ;D They're easier to work with, will look more historical, and most importantly: they will keep you cooler on those hot, hot days at Fair. We all love linen especially, and a good place for great prices on linen is Fabrics-store.com (http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php?goto=fabric_type&menu=f&fabric_type=1). They have great everyday prices, but they also have frequent sales, plus they send coupons with every order, and you earn discount points for every dollar you spend there!
The 99 cent and 1.99 patterns will be your friend. And yes signing up for the major stores coupons is wonderful. That way you get get deals on fabric and notions.
One thing that has helped me is naming my project and doing a journal on them. Even if it is just, "I made it from fabric X, from Y pattern. I ran into xyz problems along the way. I could have done qrs better next time." This way you have a way to work on improving your work.
As a cronic pattern-aholic I will start with saying once you start getting them, keep them organized. It will save you head aches in the long run. There is nothing like knowing you have a pattern for something but finding you have no idea where you put it. ;D
Gem brought up a good point about patterns. They are SOOOO EXPENSIVE! It's stupid! I only buy patterns when they are on sale. AND I buy any pattern I am interested in; Ren, goth, cowboy, fantasy, civil war, whatever. That way I have the pattern if I need it and I can combine pieces to make the perfect outfit. I did this recently on a chemise by combining the body of one Ren pattern and sleeves from a civil war pattern.
Oh, and make sure you get the correct size the first time! :D The big 3 tend to run large, the package says I am a size 12-14 when a 8-10 fits just fine. I've even used size 12 for one piece, 10 on another, 8... All for one outfit! Sometimes you have to adjust for mass production sizing. ;)
Don't be afraid of the learning curve!
Gem, that is the exact dress style (and even color) that I've been pricing at every online store I can find a link to. It's the one I want to wear! It's funny that you've posted it as a first project. Is this a sign? :o
Yup. And the sign says Go For It! ;D
Do seamstresses prefer this rotary wheel/cutting board for fabrics and patterns? Or do they still use old fashioned scissors to get the job done? I was watching some videos earlier that made cutting look like a breeze with this wheel and ruler method? Just wow. Sewing has advanced!
I know its old school but I use scissors. I have a rotary wheel but.......
I use both. It depends what I'm cutting, in both pattern and fabric... I use whichever gets the better job done on the day, and sometimes one garment will be cut out with a combination. Sometimes heavely embroidered fabrics don't cut well with the rotary cutter, but it's wonderful for slinky knits, silk chiffon, and basic shirt weight linen and cotton.
There is a learning curve with rotary cutters; I have never gotten the hang of mine, and I know many quilt shops actually offer rotary cutting classes. So, um, still scissors here for me, too.
Scissors and the "rip" method. :-) You need to be careful if you use the rip method though since it only works with cotton fabrics like muslin or quilter's cotton. However, if all you need is a straight rectangle of fabric (like you often need to make a chemise or to start on a surcote..) I snip the fabric where I want the cut to start and rip it the rest of the way. It's worked with some silks too but TEST the fabric to make sure it will go in a straight line across the grain and not go sideways. The rip method saves a lot of time and you know you have a perfectly straight line.
My suggestion would be to start the new seamstress out on very simple but wearable patterns such as a basic chemise (http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/chemise.html), a sideless surcote (http://www.wodefordhall.com/surcote.htm), or a smock/t-tunic (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat/). That way, she'll learn about measuring, cutting simple straight lines, piecing together the pattern, sewing straight seams, and still be able to wear her creation to faire for many years.
I went with mom to the Joann Fabric store this evening. Ohhhh my. I was like a kid in a candy store! All the pretty colors and textures! I found two patterns (VERY mundane) in the 99 cent zone that had pants, skirts, tops, and shorts all in one. Will help me begin sewing basic clothing that I can actually WEAR and yet learn on, too.
I know a chemise is supposed to be a very easy piece to sew. I did get to see the muslins. The bleached white was practically see-thru! Is this normal, girls??? My irish dress will open in the front and show the chemise that's underneath! What of that???
I didn't find a commercial chemise pattern unfortunately (well, not one in the sales items). I know there are some online but I'm scared to death to "create" my pattern to my measurements when I've never even followed a pre-made pattern before. Do you think that's jumping a bit too far into the fire? I haven't a clue about how much material, etc. I'll check those online links that someone so sweetly put up earlier in this thread again. I'm just a bit timid and anxious. Don't want to buy and mutilate the material. :P
But, all this to say it was FUN!! And I'm so happy and ready to just jump right in and get started on the simple stuff I got a pattern for!
Hennahair, if you go back to Joanns by this weekend, look at the Butterick patterns - they are currently 99cents. The chemise pattern I love is 6196, which (when you are able) also has a bodice pattern (albeit with princess seams) and a skirt.
Also, I have personally never used muslin for a chemise simply because, like you found, it is so thin. What I like to do is use the quilter's cotton in white or ivory, with tiny same color floral prints on it. I use the backside of the fabric facing out, so it just is visible up close. I have also used symphony broadcloth, which is still thin, but comes in a variety of colors, and is thicker than muslin.
Have fun!
Lady Rebecca, did you see that broadcloth is only $1.79 a yard?? I want the forest green color desperately, but I have to find my pattern for my dress first! I'll check on that pattern, but I'm a pretty large girl (unfortunately) and most patterns won't cover me. /sigh I'm too new to alter any sewing patterns. Hopefully I can find something before too long and get started! I don't have much time!
I wear a size 20-22 in commercial clothing (such as Lane Bryant or Cato) but the measurements on the backs of these patterns don't even come CLOSE to adding up to my measuring myself with the tape. My size 20-22 body that goes in that size of commercial store clothing seems to be more in line with a size 30W!!?? Please tell me I'm reading the measurements wrong? *cry
30 might be a bit overestimating. I know I'm usually around an 18 (from Lane Bryant), but I tend to be around 24 for patterns.
It's super easy to increase the size of something, though (assuming you're not too terrible at math). Since patterns show multiple sizes, I just measure the distance between the lines of the two largest sizes on the pattern (say 20 to 22), and multiply that amount by however many sizes over the pattern you are. For example, if you would be a size 28, and the pattern goes up to 22 --> say there is 1/2" between the lines of the 20 vs 22. Multiply that .5 by 3, which is how much bigger of a size you need, and you get 1.5". So when you are laying out your pattern on the fabric, you need to cut 1.5" from the edge of the pattern.
Also, don't fret too much if your chemise comes out a little too big. No one will notice. :)
ONLY use the size on a pattern to identify the lines to trace! Pattern sizes are very different from RTW sizes. I take a UK 12-14 in marks and Spencers sizes, with a 32DD bra. I'm lucky to get away with a 16 in some patterns! And patterns for historical stuff can be even more erratic as every pattern company uses their own measurement and size chart...
If the sizing is so terrible, I'm just happy there are no tags on homemade clothing! :P I'm NOT walking around in anything that says "size 30" on it! LOL I was also told if I made a real cheapy cloth (like the $1.99 muslins) version of it, I could try it on and see if it was a true fit or not without wasting too much money. Anyone else do that? Make a mock version first? Or is that just over-kill and I should stick with measuring myself and doing some simple math. I can't wait to meet you all and give you huge hugs for all this help!
I dont pay too much attention to the measurements on the backs of commercial patterns anymore. I just follow around my dress size. I tried doing by the measurement thing and in doing so the pattern tried to tell me I needed a bigger pattern. But in the end it all came out just right to use my current size.
For bodices and waste bands I do a mock-up/ test fit. But for the most part I just measure, cut and sew. *knock on wood* I have been pretty lucky with being spot on with this method.
If you are unfamiliar with using patterns (wording, pictures, etc), try buying a totally simple pattern (on sale, of course!) that you know how it will come out, just so you can familiarize yourself with using them. Example: My first project using a pattern was placemats. Yup. I actually paid money for rectangles. The point was to learn to read the pattern, understand the pictures and symbols, using them (that damn tissue is so annoying!), following the steps, etc.
This board has amazing seamstresses at every level of learning and people are always glad to offer assistance. Read thru the dress diaries thread stickied at the top of the list. There is a wealth of information there!
I really wouldn't fret about the pattern sizing. I am a size 6-8 commercial, size 6-12 in patterns (depending on what company, cut, style, year produced, etc.), and my wedding dress was a size 16! So you can see that the number doesn't really mean anything!!! ;)
Quote from: Marietta Graziella on July 23, 2010, 08:30:15 AM
Read thru the dress diaries thread stickied at the top of the list. There is a wealth of information there!
I went this morning and clicked on a couple diaries. Oh, they are fun. The one that has the duct tape dress form was really cute. Further down it talks about not using distilled water in a steam iron or it will "spit at you worse than an angry llama". LOL Priceless. :P
Neat suggestions and fun stories! Thanks for pointing that thread out!
Quote from: Dinobabe on July 23, 2010, 08:40:21 AM
So you can see that the number doesn't really mean anything!!! ;)
Well, it doesn't mean anything to you! You're so cute and ya got TWO men on your arms in the photo. :P I'd rather be a size 16 than 30 for sure. I think this is the time when I have finally found the motivation I need to truly lose some weight! Men didn't do it. My own health didn't get me there. But, the expense of more fabric to cover me, and the thought of buying a pattern with that high of a size number on it? Yeah, that's the way to motivate this lazy girl! :P (Thanks for the encouragement, Dino. :P You know I'm just teasing. NOT about you being cute, though! That was real!)
Quote from: hennahair72 on July 23, 2010, 06:50:23 AM
If the sizing is so terrible, I'm just happy there are no tags on homemade clothing! :P I'm NOT walking around in anything that says "size 30" on it! LOL I was also told if I made a real cheapy cloth (like the $1.99 muslins) version of it, I could try it on and see if it was a true fit or not without wasting too much money. Anyone else do that? Make a mock version first? Or is that just over-kill and I should stick with measuring myself and doing some simple math. I can't wait to meet you all and give you huge hugs for all this help!
Mock-ups or toiles are done all the time, especially by the professionals. They are the way to test whether the fit is correct and the style suits you. Here are some of mine:
Corset toiles:
(http://pics.livejournal.com/katexxxxxx/pic/00237tt7) (http://pics.livejournal.com/katexxxxxx/pic/00233e9x)
Caraco toile:
(http://pics.livejournal.com/katexxxxxx/pic/002w79fc)
I do a toile for almost everything I make. Even hats!
Oh Kate! Look at you! :) Thanks for posting some of the photos. It's so interesting sometimes to see the true form before all the pretty colors and stitching cover up the "base" of it all. I think I'm going to go that route. Oh, and I think I've decided I'll simplify things just for this year while I'm learning and do a simple vest, peasant blouse, and elastic waisted skirt to start. Peasant's look I suppose that is? This way I can do pieces instead of trying to stitch the vest to the skirt and sew a full-length chemise. Tho, I did threaten my children with my wearing a chemise at all times when I was in the house and not expecting company. The fabric felt so light and comfy! Free-flowing.
The toile stays now shape the dress dummies, and my final ones are green silk. :)
My shifts are made from white linen, white cotton, and a cream brushed cotton. All light and airy... Shifts or chemises are an excellent way to practice straight seams and machine control. I did finish the hems of the linen one by hand, just because! And no, it isn't difficult, it just takes time and practice! I use my own kit to perfect the skills needed for making perfect customer garments.
(http://pics.livejournal.com/katexxxxxx/pic/002bcqq6/s640x480) (http://pics.livejournal.com/katexxxxxx/pic/002bh0cw/s640x480)
Remember that anything you don't understand or need more explanation for, you can just ask. :)
*gulp Sewing.. by HAND? /faints
Quote from: hennahair72 on July 23, 2010, 08:55:41 AM
Quote from: Dinobabe on July 23, 2010, 08:40:21 AM
So you can see that the number doesn't really mean anything!!! ;)
Well, it doesn't mean anything to you! You're so cute and ya got TWO men on your arms in the photo. :P I'd rather be a size 16 than 30 for sure. I think this is the time when I have finally found the motivation I need to truly lose some weight! Men didn't do it. My own health didn't get me there. But, the expense of more fabric to cover me, and the thought of buying a pattern with that high of a size number on it? Yeah, that's the way to motivate this lazy girl! :P (Thanks for the encouragement, Dino. :P You know I'm just teasing. NOT about you being cute, though! That was real!)
You are so sweet! I know you are teasing! ;)
But really remember it is about making a garment that makes you feel good AND that you made yourself so you feel even better! Only size of heart matters not size of body! :D
And alas the two men aren't mine! ::)
Good luck and have FUN!!! (shakes finger dramatically)
;D I often finish things by hand. Quite often it's quicker than by machine!
Pattern Sizing Question ???
The body measurements state particular sizes. Like I said in a previous post, it was as if I were a size 30W. BUT, When looking at the bottom of those charts they have a section called "garment measurements". It's different from "body measurements". The "garment" measurements have me in a MUCH smaller size.
Which measurements should I be paying the most attention to? For example:
Bust of 51 inches.
Body measurements say for 50 bust, use size 28W or for 52 bust, use size 30W.
Garment measurements say that 28W's bust is 55 1/2!? And the 30W garment is 57 1/2. That would dwarf me!
So, I'm kinda confused on the measuring. Do I measure tightly, close to my skin for body measurements and even squeeze a little? Or do I trust the garment measurement is going to give me that much room and go with that number?
Measure in the garments you will wear under it, corset or bra...
Remember that all garments have WEARING EASE added to them. This is extra added to the pattern so that it isn't skin tight and unwearable. At your size, 5" wearing ease on a fitted garment is normal. You need that much to move in the garment. If you don't have wearing ease, the garment will fit like a sausage skin and you won't be able to move in it. If you find that it is too much ease for comfort, take it out at the toile fitting stage. Remember to do ALL fittings wearing the corset or bra you will wear under the dress.
Some patterns are better sized than others. Trace off the size you need. Make any adjustments to make it YOUR size. Draw in the seam allowances. Now measure the pattern pieces and compare those measurements with the stated finished garment size on the pattern. If your bits are larger, fold out the excess. Make up a toile, including sleeves. Try it on. Get someone to pin out any excess fabric. Show us pix at this fitting stage and we'll see what we can do to help improve things.
This chart shows the body measurements and ease allowances for modern garment patterns. Commercial patterns like Simplicity and McCalls tend to follow these guidelines. Some of the more accurate historically based patterns have fitting advice included so that you get a more period fit.
I do NOT think walking around renfaires stuffed like a sausage would be advisable for comfort or for poor ren-goers who have eyes to witness such a thing! LOL Thanks for the help, Kate! I'll post some pics when I dive in. I'm going to get the fabric this afternoon and was doing just one more check on measurements. If "garment measurements" were more accurate, I could actually fit in the size 20 blouse, but not even close in "body measurements". So, I'll have to stick with my plus-size patterns for now. I haven't found a chemise pattern for my "body measurement" size yet. :(
Quote from: hennahair72 on July 22, 2010, 09:31:29 PM
I know a chemise is supposed to be a very easy piece to sew. I did get to see the muslins. The bleached white was practically see-thru! Is this normal, girls??? My irish dress will open in the front and show the chemise that's underneath! What of that???
Yeap! Although the Irish Dress is not period per se (there are several Italian portraits that show front lacing with a split skirt but the shape is different), this is why you will see many split open skirts with underskirts showing through in most period paintings. Also, there is always bloomers for faire to wear beneath it.
I've always used either muslin, crinkle cotton gauze, or hanky weight linen for my chemises. The reasons are that they are supposed to be very light and airy. It's the thread bare favorite white t-shirt of yesteryear. Too heavy a weight will make you hot and you want something that will breathe easily on those hot faire days!
So, basically, just make a skirt to go on underneath your dress. Skirts are ridiculously easy without a pattern. All you need to do is get 4 to 5 yards of material. Cut a waist band from the end (45" or 54" long, so the width of the fabric, not the length). It should only be about 3" wide so you are just cutting a 3 inch strip. Pleat or gather the remaining length of the fabric to your waist measurement. Sew the plated fabric to the waistband strip. Fold the strip over and sew it down to hide the "tops" of the pleats, gathers. (You are just encasing the top). Cut off the excess waistband so that you have about 2" left over (so you can button it or add a hook and eye). Sew up the two ends for the skirt seam. Hem the skirt. That's it. It sounds more complicated than it really is and you don't need to cut more than the waistband making it a very excellent beginners project.
My hanky-weight shift (18th C. term for chemise) IS pretty-much see-through, and there are a lot of period portraits (especially Italian ones, like this Titian (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/tizian1515-20flora.jpg)) that show how very fine some of those linen chemises really got! I just don't wear that one with my open-front Irish gowns. ;D My favorite chemise is made from really nice bright white cotton broadcloth. It's not as cool and breezy as my linen ones, but it's less transparent, too!
On the sizing issue:
Pattern companies never subscribed to the fad for "vanity sizing," by which a 1960s 14 became today's size 8, and so your PATTERN SIZE is not your READY-TO-WEAR size. It's also very important that you learn about ease, which Kate explained to you: it's the amount of fabric in the garment beyond your body measurements. The more loosely-fitting a garment, the more ease it will have. Some garments--like swimsuits--actually have *negative* ease, meaning they are smaller than your body and will stretch when you put them on. If an ordinary garment like a shirt were made to your body measurements, you wouldn't be able to put it on or move in it at all.
You want lots of ease in a chemise, and practically none at all in a bodice (Ren-fair style standalone bodice, not the bodice portion of a dress). A too-large Ren bodice won't do you any favors, and it will be uncomfortable to wear.
The mockup stage is important for things like bodices, because sometimes the pattern companies add ease where we costumers don't really want it (like bodices). I made a bodice once from a McCall's pattern, and I had to go down three full sizes from what the pattern said I needed! And I'm making a little jacket now that doesn't have *enough* ease at my size. If I hadn't done the mockup first, it would have been unwearable. Now I just know I have to make the seam allowances a smidge larger.
Wonderful advice from you all! I feel much more confident after reading here. I should've bought that broadcloth I thought about earlier! I didn't because I didn't have a skirt pattern, but I see now I could've managed one (or two). :P
So far I've purchased about 5.5 yards of bleached muslin (100% cotton) and some cording (for gathering the sleeves and neckline). I haven't spent any huge amounts of money yet. Tomorrow is when I'm going to actually lay it all out and attempt to cut my first piece. *shivers
I'll take pics and report back if/when I can!
Don't forget to PRE-WASH your muslin! Throw it in the washer on hot water and into the dryer on hot. You want that fabric to shrink up BEFORE you sew it into something. ;D (This applies to all your fabrics. There are some great threads on these boards on pre-treating fabrics, and a recent one on how to wash non-washables!)
I like to gather by zig-zagging over cord, too. I actually use like a teeny tiny crochet yarn or perle cotton, because I've got gads of it around the house.
Doh! Right! PREWASH! I better get that done tonight before I forget all about it and get too excited tomorrow to remember to do it. Thanks!
I think I'm the only one that does this and I really need to make a youtube video to properly explain it but....how I add drawstrings to things (like chemise necklines!):
Once you've created the casing (fold over the fabric and fold it over again so you have something to push the drawstring through), cut a piece of ribbon to the desired length. (For chemise necklines, I tend to go by the distance around the shoulders at their widest point plus another foot so you can tie the ribbon off when you are done) Take a regular old plastic drinking straw and cut the tube to about 4". Thread the ribbon through the tube and make sure about an inch or two of ribbon is sticking out of the end. Fold this piece of ribbon back on the tube and pin it carefully in place so that the pin won't snag. Use the drinking straw to thread your ribbon through the casing. It shouldn't take very long at all to gather everything up and tie a pretty bow!
Doh! Forgot to post the chart... Here you are! ::)
(http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/vintage+body-sizes/size%20c1.gif)
Quote from: hennahair72 on July 24, 2010, 06:21:55 PM
Wonderful advice from you all! I feel much more confident after reading here. I should've bought that broadcloth I thought about earlier! I didn't because I didn't have a skirt pattern, but I see now I could've managed one (or two). :P
;D Yeah, when I was told this many many years ago, it made my life a lot easier. I didn't have to buy patterns for skirts anymore! Also, it's great to use this idea for a skirt if you ever make a dress- rather than cutting out the entire pattern, just cut out the bodice. Once the bodice is sewn up, just pleat a rectangle of fabric to the bodice for a full dress. It's a great time (& sometimes sanity!) saver.
Well, even though my body is ridiculously larger than the body measurements for the chemise, I'm goin to go ahead with the size 22 (highest pattern size I could find for one). If I can't fit into it, my mother can. :) She'll get a free nightgown/chemise for showing me the basics of sewing and allowing me to use her cutting board, sewing machine, and brain.
I'm hoping the ease allowance is so generous that it will actually fit me. The pattern description proclaims "very loose fitting" so.. one can hope. If it doesn't fit, I didn't spend more than $15 for the material and cording. It's the lessons and learning that count the most in the beginning stages!
For instance, pattern says body measurements should be 42-44 bust, 34-37 waist and 44-46 hip.
I'm unfortunately 52 bust, 48 waist, 48 hip. What are my odds? :-\ I'm hoping since it's a straight, billowy chemise (McCalls 4091), I might be safe?
Patterns are usually a half front and a half back. Quarter of the whole width of the garment... Cut each traced pattern piece up the middle and ad 2.5 inches. Add some to the sleeve pieces as well. You will probably also need to add some to the center front length, or just cut the whole thing 6" longer and hem level later at the trying on stage. Your arms may be too large for the pattern piece arms... Sleeves are the last thing you need skimpy! If you are adding 3" to the sleeves, cut the sleeve piece into 4 strips and add an inch in each gap. With that pattern, you may want to add a little more length between the bottom of the armhole and the neckline, making the arm holes (armscye) a little deeper...
Here are a few links on the slash and spread method that Kate talks about, as well as other pattern alterations that might come in handy.
http://sensibility.com/tips/how-to-resize-a-pattern/ (http://sensibility.com/tips/how-to-resize-a-pattern/)
Basic slash and spread with photos.
and for later on:
http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/c-228.html (http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/c-228.html)
Basic alterations for fixing fitting problems
Ohhhh boy. I know I'm probably over-thinking it, but that sounds difficult. I'm almost starting to believe patterns are more difficult to follow than just drawing up your own. LOL I watched a video of a couple little girls cutting a full-skirt. They laid out the material, used a ribbon attached to a pin as a sortof compass or radial tool? And she drew what looked like a donut on the fabric. Then she cut around the the fabric til it became a huge donut. She stepped through the center of it to show her work before finalizing the seams. LOL No pattern, no high-tech measuring. It was insane. :P
Okay, I'm going to RE-focus. I have to learn how to follow a pattern. That's part of sewing. :) You girls are so awesome.
Quote from: Kate XXXXXX on July 25, 2010, 02:51:51 AM
Patterns are usually a half front and a half back. Quarter of the whole width of the garment... Cut each traced pattern piece up the middle and ad 2.5 inches. Add some to the sleeve pieces as well.
Oh if this works I'm going to be one very happy Lady with a chemise that actually fits her!
someone has been busy! :) post pics when you are done brenna!
Quote from: Bonny Pearl on July 25, 2010, 09:25:02 AM
someone has been busy! :) post pics when you are done brenna!
I want to look my very best for my introduction to Queen Bonnie and all of Clan Mc! :P
I'm sure you will look fine! ;)
It's slow-going. :P I've gotten as far as cutting the fabric shapes out. :P My mom owns the sewing machine so I'm waiting for some access.
Once you progress to the point of doing full bust adjustments you are going to be in heaven.
Sounds like you are on your way to being a great seamstress. Keep it up with the great positive attitude. ;D
Quote from: LadyStitch on July 27, 2010, 09:28:07 AM
Once you progress to the point of doing full bust adjustments you are going to be in heaven.
Sounds like you are on your way to being a great seamstress. Keep it up with the great positive attitude. ;D
*blush Thank you. I know I have a loooong way to go but the journey will be fun. :)
Can I just mention that sewing is NOT for the weak? And it's a VERY dangerous hobby??? People take sewing so lightly. Like something the older folk do to pass the time. As IF! You could cut off a finger or hand with a rotary cutter! You could sew your very finger! Those are the more risky factors, but what of the back strain of pinning and cutting a pattern off a table? The exact science of measurements and calculations to make it fit properly/perfectly?
I admire the heck out of the seamstresses on this thread! You are WOMEN not to be messed with! :P
Just got back from doing a bit of investigating on my mom's Kenmore sewing machine. It's years and years old and hasn't been used in quite a while. No bells and whistles on this one. And the bobbin is sounding like it's dragging a bit? It does a straight stitch well enough and will reverse stitch, but that zig-zag stitch needs some serious tension adjustment or something! I don't know! :P
It's one tempermental machine! But, I'm grateful to have it to "borrow" while I create my first little project. And it's good to spend time with my mom in this way as well. Happy sewing to you all!
Clean the machine carefully (especially between the tension disks and under the leaf spring on the bobbin case), oil it where the instruction book tells you to, and try adjusting the tension until you get a decent stitch. It is not uncommon to need to slack off the tension for a good zigzag.
Lots of folk I know have rotary cutter injuries (most will admit because they lacked a moment of attention), scissor injuries, or sewing the finger injuries. While I have managed to avoid these, I have almost chopped a chunk out of a finger with scissors while cutting boning (I now use tin snips VERY CAREFULLY! :o), and gave myself tinosinovitis in both shoulders making 16 bridesmaid outfits in not enough time...
I know I nearly took my shoulder out the last show I did with all the heavy pulling an shifting of fabrics. OY!
The only roatery cutter injury I have been privy to was by a co worker who said "I can do that it is only a pizza cutter!" I'm cutting standing up, fingers out of the way, minding how I'm cutting. She on the other hand sat, talked while she cut, and hand fingers near where she was cutting. Needless to say, soon as she lost attention.... ::shakes head::
Thankfully I had sharpened the blades that morning, so it was a clean cut. The doctor said it looked like it was done with a scalple so it was easy to sew up.
Seamstresses/Tailors have to be good at math, dextrious, lighting reflexes as well as creative too boot.
I have to say once you start learning how to do some of the fitting stuff, you would be amazed at how good you can make things look. I've had one girl say she was ugly because no thing would look good on her. One properly adjusted dress on her, and DANG! Give it time and you will be wonderful. We were all in your shoes one time or another. ;D
I've been practicing on scraps the straight stitch and zigzag.
I decided today was the day I was going to start sewing on my chemise pieces. I've had them cut out now for a while and it was time to begin. Ya gotta start somewhere and that nervous feeling won't go away unless I just dive right in. So, I unfold the directions, and step 1: create button-hole. UGH! Seriously!?? Ooookay. So,
Today I tried 3 button-holes on scrap material. I did them all very well, EXCEPT the going backwards part (my machine is very old and it's a 4-step process). It doesn't look as pretty as the left side of the button-hole. It seems to catch on the foot or something? I'm not sure. You'd have to be there to see it.
But, since I wasn't real confident, I thought, let's just see what step 2 is. :) Reinforce armholes through small circle. Hmm.. Well, that's just stitching, right? Just a bit of sewing to make sure the fabric doesn't tear further than it should, etc.? Okay.
Step 3 is stitch back to front at shoulders. BINGO! Something I can do! Straight stitches! And I know where the shoulders are! :D YAY!
Step 4 - to make casing, turn under 3/4" (2cm) on neck edge. Press. Turn under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edges. Baste. Topstitch along basting. Edgestitch upper edge.
Huh? Okay, I know how to turn under. I can measure with a small ruler. I can use an iron. but... neck edge.. raw edge... baste... like a turkey??? ... topstitch? edgestitch!?
/faints
YouTube can sometimes be your friend. :) I watched videos. Got the idea of basting, and edge stitching. Still not quite sure why it wants a top stitch over the basted stitch but I'm sure it'll make sense eventually. I came back home from mom's house for some dinner and to take a little break. :) Man, this sewing stuff is tough but really neat, too. Let's hope by the end of the weekend I'll have actually sewn something recognizable to photograph! :P
Pop over to this page on my web site. A handy glossary of sewing terms: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Useful-sewing-terms.htm
If you haven't chosen a seam type that neatens the raw cut edges as you make the seam, like a felled seam, you will need to neaten those edges before making any hems or turnings. For seam types and seam neatening methods, see:
Basic seam types: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Seams/seam_types.htm
How to neaten edges: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Seams/seam_finishing.htm
And some hemming methods: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/hemming/hems_at_the_end.htm
You rock, Kate. Thanks! :)
You're welcome. It's no use having it up there if no-one looks at it! ;D
Wow, I must thank you Kate as well. Where were those years ago when I started to sew? You just helped me improve a bit more. Thank you very much. You're awesome.
Okay ladies! My mom says I've finally found something I can really get into hobby-wise because I went over to sew and looked up and 4 and a half hours had passed without my even noticing!! :P I got the button-hole done in the front (no you can't see it, it looks crappy, which is why I'm happy it'll be hidden by the ties), I sewed the neck casing for the cording, the shoulders together, and the two halves!! YAY!!! I am all the way down to the last two steps: sleeves and bottom hemming!! *dances around tossing glitter*
Well, the bad news is that my measurements are WAY smaller than the chemise. I've heard of fitting loosely but this is way ridiculous. :P You could fit two or three of me inside! LOL So, my mom says once I've gotten the sleeves on, she'll pin it for me to tailor it a bit better to my own form. :P
But YAY! I'm making progress! I would do photos but I haven't had a camera around and I'm so engrossed in it I haven't remembered! LOL
Well yeah that it's too BIG! I know you had concerns about it being too small... And you can always make something smaller.
Can't wait to see pictures!
I just finished my first sewing project, which I posted under Gallery of Finished Projects. I think I managed to get through it because my friend Jeanne, who is a professional seamstress, sat next to me the whole time (she's a very good friend!) and walked me through it. It took me about 12 hours, and when I asked her how long it would have taken her, she said about 1 1/2 hours. But she said I did a very good job. ;D
So now the joke is that in the future I will be making the same dress in 200 different fabrics because that's the only thing I know how to do!
Quote from: Lady Renee Buchanan on August 02, 2010, 07:42:07 PM
I just finished my first sewing project, which I posted under Gallery of Finished Projects. I think I managed to get through it because my friend Jeanne, who is a professional seamstress, sat next to me the whole time (she's a very good friend!) and walked me through it. It took me about 12 hours, and when I asked her how long it would have taken her, she said about 1 1/2 hours. But she said I did a very good job. ;D
So now the joke is that in the future I will be making the same dress in 200 different fabrics because that's the only thing I know how to do!
Ya beat me to finish! But CONGRATS! I'm so proud of you for enduring it and finishing up your project! Hooray!!! So proud, Lady B!