Could some one please educate me on the types of silk and what to use each one for. I'm looking at getting Margo's Anderson's Elizabethan patterns and I was thinking of making part of the noble gown out of silk the forepart of the underskirt and the bodice front. Would I use Dupioni, Shantung, or what type of silk? Help Please!
If you want historical accuracy, avoid any silk with slubs, so dupion, wild silk, tussah, Shantung, etc... Use a satin, taffeta, or brocade, and choose something on the heavy side. Slubbed silks only became fashionable in the 1960's. Before that is was a cheaper grade and regarded as faulty.
Im not to concerned with historical accuracy, I guess I'm wondering what does everyone else use for their dresses and doublets, Im working on a dress for myself and also getting the hubby into a doublet. Shhh, he doesnt know it yet. :D
Then use whatever you like. :) If it isn't quite man enough for the job, mount it on a cotton interlining.
I find silk dupioni very easy to work with, and have used it for several projects (though only one renaissance dress). What I like about it is that it doesn't move all over the place when sewing, and it's sturdy without being thick. I've also used a brushed silk (not really sure what it is, as it was a gift) for an early Florentine dress, and although the skirt is slightly electric as I didn't line it, it drapes wonderfully.
SILK DUPIONI PROJECTS:
http://aneafiles.webs.com/bronzino.html
http://aneafiles.webs.com/aminta.html
BRUSHED SILK:
http://aneafiles.webs.com/unicorn.html
Other than that, I use a lot of semi synthetic brocades, velvets etc. It depends on the project. What I avoid is thin or semi thin shiny silks. They are pretty, sure, but I find them hard to work with. They always move a lot when sewing, and it's hard to get the seams smooth and wrinkle free. If you're fairly new to costume sewing, go for sturdy fabrics. These won't move as much, and it's easy to get the seams pretty. Upholstery brocades (preferably with high content of natural fibres like cotton or linen), cotton velvet and quality wool twill might be a good start. But if you prefer silks, I would actually suggest silk dupioni, though it's not a period fabric.
I've used silk chiffon for overskirts, silk organza for sleeves, silk taffeta for dresses, silk dupoini/shantung (one just has less slubs that the other) for a variety of dresses (An Italian gown out of dupoini from Joanns (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jubileel/4759399946/)), and I've seen silk twill used for overcoats/cloaks. It's more depended on what look you are going for and what you want the garment to do than anything else.
Quote from: operafantomet on July 28, 2010, 04:04:21 AM
I find silk dupioni very easy to work with, and have used it for several projects (though only one renaissance dress). What I like about it is that it doesn't move all over the place when sewing, and it's sturdy without being thick. I've also used a brushed silk (not really sure what it is, as it was a gift) for an early Florentine dress, and although the skirt is slightly electric as I didn't line it, it drapes wonderfully.
SILK DUPIONI PROJECTS:
http://aneafiles.webs.com/bronzino.html
http://aneafiles.webs.com/aminta.html
BRUSHED SILK:
http://aneafiles.webs.com/unicorn.html
Other than that, I use a lot of semi synthetic brocades, velvets etc. It depends on the project. What I avoid is thin or semi thin shiny silks. They are pretty, sure, but I find them hard to work with. They always move a lot when sewing, and it's hard to get the seams smooth and wrinkle free. If you're fairly new to costume sewing, go for sturdy fabrics. These won't move as much, and it's easy to get the seams pretty. Upholstery brocades (preferably with high content of natural fibres like cotton or linen), cotton velvet and quality wool twill might be a good start. But if you prefer silks, I would actually suggest silk dupioni, though it's not a period fabric.
Quote from: isabelladangelo on July 28, 2010, 06:18:15 AM
I've used silk chiffon for overskirts, silk organza for sleeves, silk taffeta for dresses, silk dupoini/shantung (one just has less slubs that the other) for a variety of dresses (An Italian gown out of dupoini from Joanns (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jubileel/4759399946/)), and I've seen silk twill used for overcoats/cloaks. It's more depended on what look you are going for and what you want the garment to do than anything else.
What wonderful dresses everyone has made here, thank you for sharing. They are the inspiration that I needed. Thank you. :)
Quote from: lady serena on July 27, 2010, 05:54:13 PM
Could some one please educate me on the types of silk and what to use each one for.
I teach a class on fabrics used in the Renaissance, here are some of the links I give to people!
Tudor Tailor Book ~ They have a great list of silks and what they used to be called and what they are known as today.
Jen Thompson put up a great article about "Lower Grade Silks"
www.festiveattyre.com/research/silk.html (http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/silk.html)
Costume Dabbler put up a list of basic fabrics that were used and what they were made of:
http://des.kyhm.com/fabric_types (http://des.kyhm.com/fabric_types)
Lady Cecilia of the SCA has some information in a PDF
http://clanwolfhaven.com/cecilias_workshop/cecilias_classes/Authenticity_in_Costume2a_ren.pdf (http://clanwolfhaven.com/cecilias_workshop/cecilias_classes/Authenticity_in_Costume2a_ren.pdf)
Okay so really? Silk was made into: Satin, Twill, Damask, Brocade (this is not what we see today this was silk fabric that had gold and silver threads embroidered over the fabric, so in essence you could pick out the metallic threads and still have the base fabric), Tussa, Taffeta, to name a few.
So many people will tell you that Dupioni is not Historically Accurate, well it is not for the Royals and such, the reason is because it has slubs by it's very nature as it is made from silk cocoons which were too close together and caused them to be conjoined. As such as they made the fabric weave the slub of the 2 threads show through. Because this was not a smooth fabric, it was considered a 2nd stage in manufacturing and not something you would have the upper crust to wear.
Also this can be said of "Shantung" or raw silk, I used to have my kids dress in raw silk because I could get it for $4.00 a yard and it was awesome! It washes wonderfully and is a very strong fabric. But Thai Silks has gone up now twice the price it is now $9.50 or more per yard and I can not justify using it anymore.
Now comes the second part: How much do you want to pay?
Silk Satin is difficult to find under $19.00 a yard this is sometimes called Duchess Satin or Bridal Satin, it is a very heavy fabric, Taffeta well I have found it in the LA Fabric District for as little as $8.00 per yard but typically it is $25.00 and up, same goes for Damask and Twill.
So this is more about your wallet and what you know you can afford. I use 8 yards for a gown, and 5 yards for a kirtle. Margo's patterns will suggest up to *GASP* 16 yards for a skirt (I can't imagine walking in that with lining fabric it would be 32 yards of fabric OY!).
I do love wearing Silk Taffeta it rustles when I walk and I love how girlie I feel when I am wearing such!! I have not used Silk Satin at the moment, but if I find some next week when I am down at Costume College? You better believe I will be using it!
There are no hard or fast rules on this, if you find some less slubbed Dupioni? It is in your price range and your color choice? USE IT!
Good Luck!
Cilean