Ladies I need your input. What order do you get dressed in?
This is mine:
Bloomers
Chemise
Corset
Farthingale
Bumroll
Underskirt
Overskirt
Bodice
My biggest question is this, should the bumroll go under or over the farthingale?
Or should it be on top of the underskirt?
I am curious about HA and just how all of you perfer to wear yours.
Does one way seem more comfortable than another?
Give me your thoughts on this please!
My current garb is not all that HA, but here is how I do it:
chemise
stockings
bloomers
bodice (unlaced)
bumroll
underskirt (then position the bumroll)
overskirt
lace the bodice
boots
belt
and voila!
Bumroll should be over the farthingale, unless your farthingale was specifically designed to go under the farthingale (as in simplicity 8881). If it isn't it just looks weird. :o
For me it's:
Chemise
Partlet (sometimes)
Underskirt
Saccoccia (loose pocket)
Stockings
Velvet Mary Janes
Main dress
Jewellery and stuff
Italian fashion is blissfully free of corsets and farthingales... Whereas I think it looks cool, I hate making it, and I also hate wearing it. Maybe that's why I stick to Italian... :D
On the topic of bumrolls HA wise:
I have yet to delve super deep into researching it, so this is based on staring at paintings and reading other people's theories and ideas. :)
I'm in the school of thought that bumrolls were not generally used in England by nobility, until the end of the 1580s and then on through the early 1600s. The sleeves shape in the 1580s got bigger and the skirts also seemed to get wider to balance this out.
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/ElizabethBrydges.jpg (http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/ElizabethBrydges.jpg) 1589
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/FrancisClinton.jpg (http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/FrancisClinton.jpg) 1589
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/UnknownLady10.jpg (http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/UnknownLady10.jpg) 1595
The paintings show a rather soft line of the skirts but they do not fall straight down after being pinned in place. This suggests the fabric is either very very stiff or there is a cone shaped farthingale being worn under the roll.
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/UnknownLady40.jpg (http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/UnknownLady40.jpg) 1602
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/UnknownLady44.jpg (http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/UnknownLady44.jpg) 1605-1610
These later paintings I think, shows the skirts with just a roll, vs this painting
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/UnknownLady42.jpg (http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/UnknownLady42.jpg) 1605-1610
Yet if one is using a "drum farthingale" which is shown in the Tudor Tailor to get a slightly different skirts on a platter look, they suggest you wear a roll under it for support.
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/MaryFitton.jpg (http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/MaryFitton.jpg) 1595-1600
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/EleanorHerbert.jpg (http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/EleanorHerbert.jpg) 1595
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/PrincessRoyal.jpg (http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/PrincessRoyal.jpg) 1603
These paintings look to me like they lack a roll on top of anything.
Sarah Lorraine had good article exploring bumrolls and farthingales a few years ago but it does not seem to be on her site anymore.
She has also made a late 1580's gown http://www.modehistorique.com/portfolio/16thc/brydges/1580.htm (http://www.modehistorique.com/portfolio/16thc/brydges/1580.htm) I think she mentions in her dress diary somewhere that she is wearing a roll over a cone shaped farthingale.
if you wanna be HA it goes over, but the pattern I used for my Snow White noble gown was made with the intention of it going under. If you were to wear it under when the farthingale wasnt made for it to go under it would probably cause the hoops to hang crooked, higher in the back and lower in the front. I assume this because with mine if the bumroll isnt under it it hangs crooked...
Faire will tell you that the "bumroll" was always used. However this might not have been the case, so it depends on what time period you will be making your gown. Many historians are in a quandary on whether the Bumroll was used at the same time as a Farthingale, earlier than the 1580's. Some people believe that it was just instead of the farthingale while others believe it was in the 1580's when the wheeled or French Farthingale came into fashion which you would use the bumroll and it was under the wheel. Most people I know who do use a Bumroll wear it under the farthingale. For my camping gear I wear a corded petticoat with a bumroll only.
We have no extant Farthingales, however in Phillip Stubbes' Rant on Women's Dress, which was written in the 1580's here is a link to some of the things he speaks about how women use Bumrolls:
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/stubbes.html#women (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/stubbes.html#women)
Tudor Tailor Book, has some examples and suggestions on the bumroll so it again is a good book to check out.
www.tudortailor.com (http://www.tudortailor.com)
Semptress discussion on supportive underthings:
http://www.sempstress.org/2010/everything-i-know-about-16th-century-support-skirts/ (http://www.sempstress.org/2010/everything-i-know-about-16th-century-support-skirts/)
Hope this helps!
Cilean
Here's my order of dressing.
Chemise
Bloomers
Corset
Bumroll(under the Farthingale)
Farthingale
Underskirt
Overskirt
Bodice
Sleeves(Optional)
Jeweled Belt
Headware
I prefer wearing the Bumroll UNDER the farthingale, as it lifts the skirts off the ground in such a way so they have little drag on the ground. It's how I have always worn one.
Quote from: Cilean on August 21, 2010, 08:08:08 PM
Faire will tell you that the "bumroll" was always used. However this might not have been the case, so it depends on what time period you will be making your gown. Many historians are in a quandary on whether the Bumroll was used at the same time as a Farthingale, earlier than the 1580's. Some people believe that it was just instead of the farthingale while others believe it was in the 1580's when the wheeled or French Farthingale came into fashion which you would use the bumroll and it was under the wheel. Most people I know who do use a Bumroll wear it under the farthingale. For my camping gear I wear a corded petticoat with a bumroll only.
We have no extant Farthingales, however in Phillip Stubbes' Rant on Women's Dress, which was written in the 1580's here is a link to some of the things he speaks about how women use Bumrolls:
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/stubbes.html#women (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/stubbes.html#women)
Tudor Tailor Book, has some examples and suggestions on the bumroll so it again is a good book to check out.
www.tudortailor.com (http://www.tudortailor.com)
Semptress discussion on supportive underthings:
http://www.sempstress.org/2010/everything-i-know-about-16th-century-support-skirts/ (http://www.sempstress.org/2010/everything-i-know-about-16th-century-support-skirts/)
From what I understand the tailor Alcega, which tailor book was published in 1589, also have a farthingale pattern. It's not the most specific pattern out there, but at least it's a period source. Janet Arnold worked further with it, trying out various methods of making it, which is discussed here:
http://www.sempstress.org/2010/recreating-the-alcega-farthingale-for-modern-bodies/
Some further notes can be found in Michaela de Bruce's costume blog. She's in the process of making an altered Alcega farthingale, in yummy green and red. Both pictures of it and discussions around it can be found here:
http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/tag/farthingale
Lady K
Thats just what I was wondering about!
I technically have not worn my gown yet, but I just finished "her". And I put her on my dress dummy for the final effect. here is how i layered
chemise
bloomers
hoop skirt
cotton skirt ( the rings in my hoop skirt are weird, so i need an extra layer of fabric so the rings downt show through)
bum roll
underskirt
overskirt/bodice