RenaissanceFestival.com Forums

Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: gem on August 30, 2010, 11:07:31 PM

Title: Angle of boning (hemp cord)
Post by: gem on August 30, 2010, 11:07:31 PM
So I'm getting ready to cord the flatlining of my curved front bodice:

(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/4707019/391056040.jpg)

And I'm having trouble deciding how to mark the boning channels.

Normally, my instinct would be to put them straight up and down, like on Jen Thompson's corset (http://www.festiveattyre.com/gallery/linens/un4.html), but this bodice has the curved fronts AND angled side seams, and I just don't know how to lay out the boning channels. Because of the curves and the angles, they can't go straight up and down, but I don't know how to combine the curved bits and the angled bits, and what to do in the middle.  If I were using rigid boning, I'd fudge the angles and leave gaps between the boning channels, but I don't know if you can really do that with cording. All the pictures of corded corsets/bodices I've seen have been fully boned (tightly packed channels, no gaps). Since I need a lot of support, I'd like this to be fully boned.

Here's what the pieces look like. You can see the curved front, but not really the angled sides.

(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/4707019/391056234.jpg)

Everything I do seems to leave a fairly sizable gap somewhere.

???

Thanks!



Title: Re: Angle of boning (hemp cord)
Post by: Elennare on September 01, 2010, 04:36:06 PM
Hi Gem.

I don't know anything about using cord for boning, but I had a thought, and since no one else has suggested anything I though I'd throw it out there.

Can you angle the channels to match the side seams, and fill in with some shorter channels where you run into issues?  I assume that would be in the front where the curve makes the bodice a bit wider.  So, you'd have a few shorter channels in the front and then pick up with full length ones as soon as they fit on the bodice.

Here is a very poor ascii-art illustration of what I mean.

    |//////
    |/////
     \///
      |/

Good luck!
Title: Re: Angle of boning (hemp cord)
Post by: Butch on September 01, 2010, 05:36:57 PM
That corset I made the mom in those pics from the MN renfest was hemp cord boned.

I would trace the outline of the front edge of your closing.  Then, I would use that as the marking guide for sewing the channels.  I would make front shaped verticle channels to the inside edge of your shoulder straps.  
I would then make 45 deg channels from there to a verticle line at the rear of your arm.
I would then make some straight verticle channels at the rear center of your corset.  I imagine you could make these all the way across the back, until they meet with the 45 deg channels on the sides.

NOTE:  On the corset I made, I did not sew the verticle channels that sealed off the 45 deg channels until AFTER I had threaded the 45 deg with cord!

I used a large embroidery needle (backwards so the point wouldn't go through the material) in order to thread the cords.

Good luck!  I'm sure it will turn out beautifully!