I'm doing a very deep neckline, but I'm consistently getting about a 1/2 inch of gap-osis on my mock ups. I've taken the neckline in a half inch but still getting it. Any suggestions?
Do you have pictures?
I think we need more info. The fix will depend on the type of neckline, won't it?
But I usually start by pinching out a dart/s where the gap is to draw the neckline in closer, and pin it in place. Then use that to draft a totally new mockup WITHOUT the dart/s. Does that make sense? You take your darted piece and lay it as flat as you can on your pattern paper, and trace around the new neckline. It will probably make the shoulders shift a little one direction or the other, but you can compensate for that by adjusting the shape of the neck hole itself.
Do you have a copy of Couture Sewing Techniques, by Claire Shaeffer? On page 50 it explains how to use stay stitching to take a small dart to get the right size for the neckline, then to distribute the fullness along the whole neckline using stay-stitching, and steaming out the fullness.
If you don't have it, I can copy out the instructions for you. I LOVE this book!
I would suggest the same idea as gem. Try the mockup on the person, make the adjustments, then cut out the fashion fabric.
I had some issues with the Pelican portrait gown bodice. My client underwent Breast reduction. When I tried on the mockup, I had to make adjustments where there were similar issues going on. I cut out all the fabrics and put everything together based on those adjustments.
Good luck.
Yup, dear Claire all the way! One of my sewing godesses!
Isabella: Sorry no photos. The girls are very moddest and don't want photos of them in their sivies, even if it is for reference and they don't show their face.
Gem/ Lady Kathleen : Yes you are making sense. It's a deep sweet heart neckline. It goes all the way to the bust line. Think Demi cup bra deep. I've been darting the gap on the mock up together. Then drafting with out the gap. But I think I have been moving the fullness to the under bust dart. I'll just trace with the dart still in there, but not transfer fullness.
Rosalind:Sadly I don't have Couture book. I had a chance to get a copy that's cover was messed up but pages were no good. I just didn't have the money at the time even to buy that banged up copy.
If that can get fixed I can hopefully figure out how to define one girl's figure. She is a size 6 across the back, size 10 front bust,and still is a B cup. I can't say it is the oddest pattern I have made (The headless victorian bride was) but her natural block is odd indeed.
If the neckline is going that low, I'd think you'd have *less* gap, since you're approaching the fullness of the bust. But anyway, can you take a series of tiny tucks/darts all along the neckline, just to draw it closer to the body? I know this isn't the ideal/historical solution, but it should work. I wish I could find a link for you, but I recently saw it done on a recreation of Raphael's Unicorn gown. She took a couple of tiny tucks near the shoulder strap, and then covered them up with the velvet trim! I don't think they'd be visible from onstage.
I think Gem is thinking on the same lines as I am. I use stay stitching and pull just enough not to gather but to keep it from stretching out. you can then stitch a twill tape or a piece of organza on the straight of grain to hold it in place depending on your fabric. I have to use this technique a lot but it's easier to show than explain LOL.
I'm going to go one more round of full mockups and if they still gap I'll do the slight gathering. It just irks me that my girls keep forgetting to wear the correct bra's for fittings. I'll post once I get done.
I know what you mean about the bras! I love when a bride tells me "now this isnt the bra I'm going to be wearing for the wedding, does that make a difference?" UM YEAH!!!!
Send them away, telling them: I cannot do the fitting if you don't wear the correct underwear for it.
Don't forget to charge for the wasted time.
I have this as a clause in the contract!
Mock up's are cut out. Emails/texts went out to the girls.
Question, these dresses are due in a week. (Big photo shoot) This includes their attached cape and standing boned collar. (Think evil queen from snow white's collar) Do you think it is better to just go off of these latest fittings (I've done 2) and just cut from final fabric, or waste 2 nights doing another fitting.
I've fixed worse issues than slightly gapping necklines on tech days before.
What do you think?
Only you know how fast you work, but I would probably go ahead with the final. If necessary, you can pin things in place for the photoshoot and fix the necklines after. My only concern would be if the necklines must fit absolutely perfectly snugly in order to support the weight/structure of the standing collars.
Cut out the bodices last night. The one girl that is a fitting nightmare I did one more mock up for her. She is a known diva, and I didn' like how the first mock up looked anyway. The other's should be ready to go. If we need minor adjustments on those I'm not as worried. Wish me luck!
Thought I would give you an update. While my boys were trying on their new coats last night I was able to do a quick fitting on my girls bodices. Yeah I got them right. The one I thought would be terrible. Was only a 1/4" adjustment. Easily fixed, and the one I thought HAD to be wrong was actually right, and all are fitting quite nicely. I was even able to start the final cutting out late last night.
I'll have a marathon sewing session ahead of me starting tonight but so far we are doing well.
I feel your pain on the marathon sewing but congrats on getting the problem worked out. I know it was a huge relief! Sending you good thoughts as you get it all finished, may you stay wide awake and focused on the task ahead and complete it with little grief :)
I spent 4 hours last night cutting out the wonderful white satin Shantung. It was all cut out except for one piece. The back of lady #4's skirt. And I was 10 inches too short of fabric. Granted I had used ever spare inch of the yardage, (Trust me I ended up with no pieces bigger than my hand)
Thankfully it is a very common fabric, and when I called the store they have another bolt of the same dye lot handy. It just so d@m frustrating to think you have it just right and find out you are THAT short at 11:30 at night. The poor pink pirate found me near tears. :'( I gave up for the night and I was up early working on it. When this is over I'm either going to need choclate, a stiff drink, or better yet a chocolate flavored stiff drink!
That is definitely a panic-inducing shortage!!
I've gotten MUCH MUCH better at assessing a crisis and just turning my back on it until I can face it. Hope you got a good night's sleep!
I didn't loose sleep over the fabric, the dog deciding 2 AM is a great time to have a party, did make me loose sleep.
Seriously, I only need a piece of fabric 47-50 inches long for the skirt.
I got the chiffon capes cut out this morning, and I got the canvas interlineing for the collar cut out. All that is left to cut out is the one girl's skirt and the lining for the girl's skirts. I have a bolt of while cotton for that.
Keep your fingers crossed.