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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: VIII on June 06, 2008, 10:10:25 AM

Title: One-piece shirt
Post by: VIII on June 06, 2008, 10:10:25 AM
I hope the title is not misleading.

I found some Muslin that was 72" wide, so I made a one-piece shirt. The only seams were from the wrist to the bottom hem on each side.  There was no shoulder seam as the front and back and sleeves were all cut as one piece.

It was not truly "one-piece" as I added on the collar and cuffs.  Cutting out the neck-hole, I faced down the front and added a ruffled collar.  The cuffs I added were ruffled as well.

The wicked thrill was loaning it to a novice friend who wanted to draft the pattern for himself.  He called me up in the middle of the night screaming, "How did you make a one-piece shirt?!?"

Anyone else done this?
Title: Re: One-piece shirt
Post by: isabelladangelo on June 06, 2008, 10:42:21 AM
One piece t-tunic?  Yeap.  :)  Also have done the one piece surcote.
Title: Re: One-piece shirt
Post by: DonaCatalina on June 06, 2008, 11:41:27 AM
http://sca.warhawkhobbies.com/ttunic.HTM

Instructions for a one-piece T-Tunic
Title: Re: One-piece shirt
Post by: VIII on June 06, 2008, 12:43:40 PM
I hate making shirts!!!  I tried this as a shortcut, but spent more time on the details.
Shirts,... grrr!!!
Title: Re: One-piece shirt
Post by: DonaCatalina on June 06, 2008, 01:57:30 PM
Simple pattern for a Tudor shirt. Though if you're going to add blackwork, that is easier done before the shirt is assembled.
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x71/Dona_Catalina/Other%20Garb%20Projects/SimplepatternforTudorshirt.jpg)

For the front of the shirt, the pattern piece is split into two halves so that the fabric edges can be finished to avoid raveling or fraying where the neckline opens below the collar.
Title: Re: One-piece shirt
Post by: Aelwyn on June 06, 2008, 05:34:20 PM
I used the idea of the T-tunic to make my man's tunic,and my chemise.  :)  So easy, and simple to dress up with trim, cuffs, etc. ;)
Title: Re: One-piece shirt
Post by: Marietta Graziella on June 07, 2008, 10:36:08 AM
VIII, when you made your 1 piece shirt, how did you cut the sleeves?  Did you use a basic T pattern?   What about arm movement? 


DonaCatalina,   can you give an estimate of a good size to work with for that pattern?

I love the idea of building shirts this way but am uncertain of the measurements and lengths.

I also notice that this pattern has no gores under the sleeves.  How does this change the sillouette and functionality?

Thank you!
Title: Re: One-piece shirt
Post by: DonaCatalina on June 08, 2008, 10:37:28 AM
Quote from: Marietta Graziella on June 07, 2008, 10:36:08 AM
VIII, when you made your 1 piece shirt, how did you cut the sleeves?  Did you use a basic T pattern?   What about arm movement? 


DonaCatalina,   can you give an estimate of a good size to work with for that pattern?

I love the idea of building shirts this way but am uncertain of the measurements and lengths.

I also notice that this pattern has no gores under the sleeves.  How does this change the sillouette and functionality?

Thank you!
You could draft out this shape on the back of some cheap wrapping paper.

The length of the slope should be the length from the base of the neck to the center of the armpit plus 2 inches.
The length down the center front should be long enough to reach from the base of the neck to crotch. this allows for the shirt to be tucked into hosen or breeches.
The circumferance of the neck should allow be long enough to close around the neck + 3 fingers. This keeps the gentleman from choking on his own shirt.

The width of the sleeves is great enough to allow freedom of movement without the square armpit gores. But you can add them if you wish. 4x4 usually works for most men.
The sleeve cuffs need to be big enough to fit comfortably around the wrist without being too big.
Cuffs that are too large will continually slip down over his hands.

Or you can buy the Period Patterns Early Tudor Men's garments which has basically the same shirt and adjust the measurements as needed.
(http://www.bymichelle.com/patterns/pp53.jpg)
http://www.bymichelle.com/pp5153.html
I find that most commercial shirt patterns run a little short, so that the shirt won't stay tucked in.