Greetings.
My wife so graciously purchased me a dagger! I'm certain its not the highest of quality by any means, however, I still want to care for it so that down the road when I do decide to purchase finer quality weapons, I will have good habits and maybe even act like I know what the heck I am doing :)-
http://tudorshoppe.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TTS&Product_Code=401726&Category_Code=DG
I don't plan using the dagger other than what it was marketed for really, and that is basically a prop for my character!
The instructions state I can clean the grease from the dagger using WD40, as there is a sticky kind of film on the blade, and then states I can use Flitz or any other polymer wax. Is this the basic way to do this, or should I consider other brands or methods? Any other tips?
Sincerely and humbly!
James
aaaaah. No WD40.
WD40 - Stay away from any all-purpose lubricants. WD40 may be great for many purposes, but not for real authentic swords. It contains kerosene and fish oil, which evaporates quickly and leaves your sword unprotected to rust!
Flitz - It's essentially a metal polish and polishes most metals to a gleam. But use it only once for those harder-to-remove stains on your stainless steel blade. Contrary to public opinion, Flitz contains a mild abbrasive, and thus should never be used on an antique sword, or one made of forged carbon steel.
Windex - This is good for stainless steel to get those fingerprints off. But then again, why are those fingerprints on the blade in the first place? Some people's skin oils are more acidic than others, and in the long run, can even stain a stainless steel blade. So in that case, maybe use some Flitz to get it off.
Gun Oil - Get some Remmington Gun Oil, you could also try a silicone-based oil, but stay away from anything that claims to be an all-purpose agent.
Metal Glow Metal Polish - This aluminum oxide polishing paste will help you preserve your swords and the other edged weapons in your collection. Metal Glo works with a non-abrasive polishing agent to remove rust, oxidation or tarnish. Use it on stainless steel, carbon steel, nickel, silver, brass- virtually any metal. Check your local tru-value hardware store,.
Thank you Lady DonaCatalina. Your suggestions are very helpful. A question about cleaning the factory applied grease however.
I understand WD40 is not to preserve the sword or polish it. The instructions only mentioned WD40 to be used to clean the sticky grease applied to the blade by the manufacturer I believe. This grease is applied to protect it from moisture while in transit I believe. So in your opinion, would the WD40 be okay to clean this sticky grease from sword? Or should I use something else?
Many thanks!!! :)
I would like to caution against the use of WD40 as well. It is NOT a lubricant by any stretch of the imagination. It is a water displacement agent. When it finally evaporates, it will leave a layer similar to varnish, only sticky and useless.
The ammonia content of Windex would make it unsuitable to leave on many metals, but would certainly dissolve oils from the hands and such. Make sure to not leave it on the metal. As Doña said, gun oil would be good. For storage, wiping down with a rag that has some gun oil would keep it from rusting.
Use the WD40 to get the gunk off the blade, we use it to clean weapons in my unit, gets the carbon off in a heartbeat. To protect the metal we use what's called Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative known commercially as Break Free. It's not as thick as gun oil and has teflon in it. Whatever you do, if you use WD40 put some sort of oil on it afterward.
I'd forgotten about Break Free. The most amazing cleaner/lubricant I've ever used. When my dad and I had a gun store years ago, we used a lot of this stuff.
Quote from: Merlin the Elder on February 26, 2011, 07:28:21 AM
I'd forgotten about Break Free. The most amazing cleaner/lubricant I've ever used. When my dad and I had a gun store years ago, we used a lot of this stuff.
Me too- I haven't had to look for it in a long time.But wether you use this, windex or WD40 to clean the gunk off, Sir Ironhead is right, you will have to oil it immediately afterwards.
I recommend gun oil also, to remove the coating. The 'grease' is a preservative for corrode-able metal, so it's a pretty good guess the blade will rust if you don't reseal it with something quickly.
Since you are not planning on cutting with it or waving it about, perhaps a spray on lacquer type coating? The intention here is to prevent moisture and air from contacting the metal.
Thank you Ladys and Gents! This is most helpful information ;D. I'll do some checking round town (this is kind of a small community) and see what the local stores have. This gives me a few options lto work with though!.
All you need is a light coat. A light coat is defined as a just being able to see a sheen on oil on the surface. Just about any oil will work for protecting the blade. If the blade is being kept in a leather sheath/scabbard you'll want to put a little bit more on it as the leather sill soak up the oil. I have a Model 1860 Cavalry Saber and all I have ever put on it is clean 30 weight motor oil and have never had even a speck of rust on the blade.
So the remington gun oil found in most discount stores would suffice? I looked thru town, again its a smaller community, and they have none the product brand names mentioned. I could and would order one the listed above products online if it really makes a huge differnece, but of course I will be spending more for shipping, etc.
Just about any place that sells firearms SHOULD have Break Free or Remington Gun Oil, in fact any type of oil meant for firearms will work. Break Free can get pricey (a 4 oz spray can cost me 8 bucks) so if money is an issue 30 weight motor oil works as well
Excellent! Thanks so much Sir Ironhead!
You all have been very helpful!
WD40 is fine if the the blade has daily use or at least is used often. Re-wiping it down after each use. Wd40 works great for that.
What WD40 doesnt do well is protect over long periods of time such as a sword or dagger that is hung on the wall and only taken down once a year.
Some of the things i recommend for blade upkeep : never touch the blade. If its carbon steel just the oils from your fingers can make it rust. Ive seen more than enough blades with fingerprints pitted onto it. If you do touch it, wipe it down asap. Most oils will do. I usually use liquid wrench, and ive wiped thousands of swords. Dont use wd40. Even if you havent touched the blade in a while, its a good idea 2 wipe it down every so often. Ive also heard that storing the blade in a leather sheath longterm isnt recommended
I use Noxon metal polish as it is non abrasive polish, wipe it down, windex it to remove residue, wipe down with another clean cloth and usually coat my higher end blades in choji oil with a large gun swab coated in it. All of my higher end weapons also sit inside a modified Liberty Gunsafe with a dehumidifier.
I personally use a syn motor oil 10-30 usually but it doesn't really matter, it's easy available and keeps my high Carbon pieces safe even when they spend an entire faire run in a tent.