Hi everyone its been a while since I have been able to post lol.
I am making a hand stitched Tudor chemise (Margo's Elizabethan) and I plan on making this my first entirely hand stitched project. I would like to add hand stitched black work to the neck and possibly down the sleeves and cuffs.
My question is for the neck. Do I put the neck facing in first and then do the black work through both layers or do I do the black work on the right side of the neck and then put the facing in? Or put the neck facing in and then do the black work through the right side but not through the facing? Or...do the black work on the facing and then sew it down to the right side?
I have JA's POF 4 which covers smocks and black work, and it shows several versions of both however since this is the first time I am doing this I was hoping to find some beginner advice on the easiest way to go. I am using a light weight white linen for the smock and still deciding on the pattern for the black work. I have several samplers going so to speak lol.
Thanks for the help!
None of the above! ;D
You do the blackwork FIRST, before you cut anything out. Take the fabric you're stitching on, and lightly mark out the shape of the pattern piece + seam allowances, so you know where you need to put your stitching. Stitch up your pieces, then cut them out and assemble as usual. If this is your first time doing any needlework by hand, you might find it easier to use a hoop or a frame to hold the embroidery fabric taut (I do, at least, although I know some stitchers who work "in hand).
Eeeps! I already have the smock cut out :o
Its a square neck smock with no shoulder seams, the only seaming is for setting the facing so I think I am ok there with it being cut out? I can see where I would need to do that if there were shoulder seams involved.
Well, the reason for doing it first is that it's 9,000 times easier to stitch on flat fabric than it is on anything finished, which is an absolute PITA.
In this case, I would do something to reinforce the edges of the cut pieces (like serging them) and then carefully work up your stitching and keep going with the sewing once that's done.
When I black worked a collar for a man's cloak I used very stiff interfacing on the backing and was able to "in hand" stitch. It wasn't easy but it worked. I wouldn't have been able to do it with out the backing.
in past i have reinforced cut edges, stitched and then put in facing to cover up a messy underside and because the bumpy stitching can be itchy against skin. once to secure, i stitched and then put on light iron-on interfacing over underside of stitching and followed with facing.