So I will soon be working on a commission piece that the client wants to have military style epaulets sort of like the ones in this picture
(http://unrealitymag.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/napoleon.jpg)
Does anyone know how they were made historically? Like if I wanted the epaulets to be HA for Napoleon himself, how would they be stiffened? I can think of several modern solutions to get the same affect, but I would like to do them right. From pictures I've seen on individual epaulets (not attached to garments) they have a button hole like they would button on where the jackets standard epaulet button is, but how was the farther end secured? Basically anything you know about this sort of epaulet would be helpful. The garment won't be historical by any means, but I want the epaulets themselves to be as sturdy as the historical ones look.
Historical versions were rather heavy, because they were made from various metal threads and bullions (metal wrapped around a cotton thread, or just spiral twisted). The fringes are almost always bullion. Sometimes the actual fundament could be metal too. Check these:
http://www.quartermastershop.com/CW%20US%20Officer/us_epaulettes.html
For this you don't really need to add any stiffening. The materials will in themselves be stiff and heavy enough. But if you are to make them yourself, you could cheat a bit to make the project easier and more affordable. Ideally you would get a hold on thick shoulder straps from a wool coat or similar. Maybe a thrift store? Eventually, sew them yourself. At the end you attach a circular or oval shape of the same thick material.
Paint them golden with gold paint and a sponge. Attach a rich gold bullion fringe at the circle/oval. These will typically be found in the upholstery section or in immigrant shops, or also at eBay. Add also a rich gold trim to the top of the circle/oval, extending to the strap, around its outer lines. As you say, one end was attached by a button. I think the other end was laced to the coat, or otherwise fastened by ribbons. A modern solution could of course be velcro.
Wow so totally didnt expect them to be metal...well I plan on sewing my own. I've got fabric picked out and i know what fringe I want. How should I stiffen them to make them look that stiff?
The civil war eenactors I know said that there is a tabe that is on the uniform, and looks under the 'board' of the epalets. Then the tab is buttoned to the jacket.
This is the site I got my references from when I had to make my mock ones.
http://www.quartermastershop.com/CW%20US%20Officer/us_epaulettes.html (http://www.quartermastershop.com/CW%20US%20Officer/us_epaulettes.html)
Worth a shot for you.
Quote from: ArielCallista on March 11, 2011, 11:19:29 AM
Wow so totally didnt expect them to be metal...well I plan on sewing my own. I've got fabric picked out and i know what fringe I want. How should I stiffen them to make them look that stiff?
You are probably going to tave to construct the fabric part of the epaulets as a fabric pocket with the uphostelry bullion sewed around the edges. Then you can go to the hardwarre store for a sheet of plastic and cut it to fit snugly in the pocket as a stiffener.
When I worked at the Costume Shop years ago, I made these types of Epaulets using fabric, cut up cardboard box lids, and heavy Drapery fringe. They turned out nice eough to be seen from a distance.
If the customer can afford it, get the Real Thing. They are still made for dress uniforms:
(http://www.wyedean.com/catalogue/textile_accoutrement/rank_laced_epaulettes/DSC00054.jpg) (http://www.wyedean.com/catalogue/textile_accoutrement/rank_laced_epaulettes/DSC00105.jpg)
Wydean make them for reenactment and film/TV work as well as for ranking officers and others who need this style of epaulette. http://www.wyedean.com/index.php
I shall be making some cheaper versions for a Trafalgar era uniform soon. I'll let you know how it works out... I'll probably use Vilene pelmet stiffening in them.
I think its safe to assume she can't afford real ones