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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: LadyStitch on June 09, 2011, 09:37:38 AM

Title: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: LadyStitch on June 09, 2011, 09:37:38 AM
In the current show I'm doing the bad guy's costume is based off the look of Aries from "Hercules: The Legend continues".  We can't do the intricate work his doublets have but we wanted it to at least have the studs.  What would I need to put studs on this doublet?  And where would I get them?

FYI the pleather I am using is thinner than vinyl, but thicker than the normal shiny pleather stuff. (Vinyl approx 4 mm thick, shiny pleather 2mm thick, mine approx 3 mm thick)
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: Captain Teague on June 09, 2011, 10:42:21 AM
I think you mean Hercules, The Legendary Journeys.  :)
(Ares outfit is one of my all time favorites )

(http://images.wikia.com/hercxena/images/e/e0/AresCostume.jpg)


The studs appear to be the old school simple round ones. Those can be gotten from local craft stores like Hobby Lobby or Michaels, last I knew. Likely get them online for cheaper though. Like these for example:

http://cgi.ebay.com/200-round-studs-Diameter-10mm-DIY-stuffs-leather-craft-/120721272590?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1b8c6f0e (http://cgi.ebay.com/200-round-studs-Diameter-10mm-DIY-stuffs-leather-craft-/120721272590?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1b8c6f0e)

As for the other decoration, you can probably find braiding on a roll at a fabric store and stitch (recommend pre-piercing some holes with an ice pick ) or industrial glue it down first to get closer to the full effect of the doublet. Looks very similar to the braiding on a band leaders coat.
(I have lusted after this doublet for a very long time now.  ;) )
Studs are very simple. They have sharp points that push through and then bend them inward with pliers, preferably needle nose. Very easy for pleather material, not so much with thicker stuff. Lay the doublet out, mark where you want them to go and start pressing them into it. Putting some sort of braid roll down first will give you a perfect pattern for the studs as well. Lay the studs on their top on a soft piece of cloth or padding and bend the studs inward.
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: LadyStitch on June 09, 2011, 10:54:46 AM
That is EXACTLY what they want!  ;D  This is something I would really like to try to make.  I'm being kind to the guy and lining it with black cotton.  I was just curious how difficult it would be to do the studs.  I think it will look great on the stage.  They guy wearing it is a sweetheart in RL, but on stage he can be quite scary.
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: Captain Teague on June 09, 2011, 11:32:50 AM
I wouldn't think it that hard. I am far from any sort of seamstress, but its a basic vest pattern with sleeve extensions.

If you google "hercules the legendary journeys ares" and go to the images, some angles look more like it's made of heavy cloth or canvas. Which would be easier to work with than leather or pleather.
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: LadyStitch on June 09, 2011, 01:15:48 PM
I'm a professional seamstress by trade, and made it up in pleather with cotton lining in less than 2 hours.  making the base doublet was not problem, it was figuring out how to do the studds with out having a professional stud installer.

I found a place online where I could get them in bulk if nessasary, and I already have most of the jewlrey tools on hand anyway.  I just needed to figure out how to actually install them.  We are going to swing by Hobby Lobby and see what they have in stock.  I just want a nice "villan" look for the guy.
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: Auryn on June 09, 2011, 01:26:11 PM
Quoteprofessional stud installer
hehe
sorry, couldn't help myself.

I've never installed studs but I would think it would go about the same way as rivets and snap fasteners.
Id love to see how you put them in.
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: crazyrennie on June 09, 2011, 01:45:20 PM
Hey there,
there are a couple different types of the studs/conchos that are available-
Some have the back where you have to bend/peen them over.
Others require a tool to set them-
sorry its the leather worker in me talking-
Crazy
let me know if I can help-not trying to be snarky
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: DragonWing on June 09, 2011, 03:05:54 PM
Here is another place for studs. I like the pyramid stud myself, because they look more menacing.  :o

http://www.studsandspikes.com/buy/studs-c-57.html
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: Captain Teague on June 09, 2011, 04:20:30 PM
Can't wait to see the finished project.  ;D
(Gonna be takin orders? ;)  )
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: LadyStitch on June 09, 2011, 04:24:53 PM
Yes, I wondered if some one would take up the bait on the "stud installer"  note. :) 

Actually it is the leather worker people I wanted help from.  I never turn down learning new things, and any advice is welcomed.  ;D

Dragon Wing- That is actually the same site I found to get the studs from. I will most likely end up ordering from them.

Lord Dragon:  Depending on how this this project turns out, I might put it on my 'orderable' list for commisions. :)
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: Captain Teague on June 09, 2011, 04:39:52 PM
I wouldn't call myself a leather WORKER, but over the years I have fashioned all sorts of leather/pleather geegaws for my personal use.

Me at Tenn Ren Fest several years ago. Sorry it's not a better pic, but the only one I have.

(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l268/darkknightwalking/Ren1.jpg)

That's actually made from Upholstery leather and had embossed stripes and a nice ren type pattern on it. Got tons of comments and pics taken by the danes.

Studs are very easy to use. Mark the spot, press it into place, flip it over and bend the points down. Once you do a couple ( and stick your finger with the points a couple times. :P  ) it will go quickly.

One of those stud setters works for SOME applications, but I found that it has a short reach and the new ones are nearly all plastic and will break if used just a little too roughly.
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: DragonWing on June 10, 2011, 05:56:45 AM
Dragon Wing- That is actually the same site I found to get the studs from. I will most likely end up ordering from them.  


Very good LadyStitch. Good minds think alike 
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: Auryn on June 10, 2011, 06:06:54 AM
I am assuming then that you should put the studs in before you line it.
Otherwise those points that you bend back could get really scratchy if hes not wearing anything underneath
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: LadyStitch on June 10, 2011, 08:55:34 AM
I had already assembled most of it before they decided to do the studs. I have a fitting with my actor tomorrow.  I left the bottom edge open so I could get access should I need to alter it, which I doubt I will, but better safe than sorry.  I will just add the studs to the leather part, and when completed stitch the bottom closed.  Then again knowing my luck they will want a 'skirted' section onto the doublet, instead of keeping it plain.

Last night the PP saw it on the dress dummy and commented I may have to make him a doublet like that.  I didn't say it out loud but , would it need to be in black, or  in his traditional pink?  ;D
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: Lady Rebecca on June 11, 2011, 02:47:32 AM
Would a bedazzler work? I know they have the force to put the studs through denim, but I don't know about leather.
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: LadyStitch on June 20, 2011, 08:31:29 AM
I started studding the doublet this weekend.  It is looking rather menicing now.  Heee  ;D
I found doing the studs was not that difficult.  The only difficulty I ran into was making sure I could see the marks where I wanted the studs to go.  The pleather wouldn't take chalk, so I had to use the actual prongs of the studs to make indentations where I want them to go.  Any suggestions on how to mark out the pattern with out maunally poking with the prongs themselves?
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: Ms Trish on June 20, 2011, 08:47:07 AM
This may be a stupid suggestion but how about a white-out pen? They function vaguely like a ball point but leave white dots in their wake.
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: LadyShadow on June 20, 2011, 09:49:48 AM
I used a silver permanent marker with a fine tip to mark small dots where I need. But the white out pen sounds like a good idea as well.
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: LadyStitch on June 20, 2011, 10:48:48 AM
I've got the several silver pens around. I'll also try the white out pen.
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: Sitara on June 20, 2011, 02:53:23 PM
Quote from: Ms Trish on June 20, 2011, 08:47:07 AM
This may be a stupid suggestion but how about a white-out pen? They function vaguely like a ball point but leave white dots in their wake.

This is what we have always used for leather as well. The best part of using white out instead of silver markers, is if you mismark your leather, it scrapes right off once dry.
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: LadyStitch on June 23, 2011, 08:51:04 AM
Here is a shot before Studds
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n212/shanntarra/Hercules/EricDoubletbeforestudds.jpg)

Here is him in all her regalia at a fitting.  We decided he needs more 'stuff' on the skirted part because it blends into his pants.  And of cource the gauntlets need something.  The PP  gave me some greek letters he thinks would  look cool on the gauntlets.  Though I am a bit worried when he had this evil look in his eye when he gave me the symbols.....
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n212/shanntarra/Hercules/EricDoublet1.jpg)
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: Captain Teague on June 23, 2011, 08:56:40 AM
Very nice. :)

Wasn't that hard, was it.  ;D
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: LadyStitch on June 23, 2011, 09:02:52 AM
I honestly was suprised it only took me maybe...3 hours? to studd the doublet.  I swear it has taken me more time to decorate the thing, than actually make it. 
I did get asked, "How can you stand to it there and put in each one?"  I turned to them and said, "You are talking to some one who does huge 22 stiches per inch cross stitch for FUN.  Putting in 100 or so studds, not exactly challanging.

Though the look on the guy who is playing Hercules was priceless. Due to him being a non royal soldier person he doesn't get the finery stuff, just a basic tunic witha plain  brown grometed doublet.  He looks great in it but... no shiny metal studdy stuff. :)  He tried it on, and handed it to the guy who it belonged to and said, "Sometimes it pays to be the bad guy."  ;D
Title: Re: Studded Leather Doublet
Post by: Captain Teague on June 23, 2011, 09:09:04 AM
Quote from: LadyStitch on June 23, 2011, 09:02:52 AM
  He tried it on, and handed it to the guy who it belonged to and said, "Sometimes it pays to be the bad guy."  ;D


Huzzah.  8)

(note studs in my pic, rofl )