Okay, so I have this gown that started out as the Ever After pattern dress. I remade it about two years ago, tearing it apart and getting rid of those hideous, pointy darts, adding a band of satin to make it longer (I'm a tall girl and it was WAY too short) but I kept the sleeves with it. Here's what it looks like now... just ignore the chemise/shirt, I'm making a new one.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e385/Littleladyphantom/personal/IMG00301-20110701-2355.jpg)
My question is this: How do I make this more 'noble/upperclass' in appearance? I love the Italian fashion, so I'm keen to stay in that field and don't have time to make my newest project in planning inspired by The Borgias (ugh, I was so content on not making new things until that came along) for this first trip. You all are a wealth of knowledge and ideas and so: what should I do? Add trim? Just wear one of my Elizabethan ensembles? Gah! I posted it here since I'm looking to alter/add to the dress rather than just accessorize. I have the jewels and a matching caul.
I apologize for how rambling this is...
I don't think it necessarily looks "un-noble," but I do think actually looks more Regency than Ren at the moment--probably because it's a single layer and all the same color. So the first thing I'd do is think about incorporating more layers. How's your fabric stash? Anything you could turn into a giornea (http://www.angelfire.com/zine/kiarapanther/garb/giornea.html) to wear over it? I'd also probably bead the heck out of the bodice! Either an allover pattern, or some beaded trim around the neckline (also bead the sleeves).
For inspiration, check out this ensemble by Lynn McMasters:
(http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/miditalianfullsize/overdress.jpeg)
At the top of my head:
*Get rid of the broad satin band in the waist. It looks more Regency to my eye.
*Add trims. A semi-narrow trim with beads on the neck opening, skirt hem, on each horizontal end on the sleeve, on the shoulder straps, and maybe even in the waist. A plain gold one which you bead yourself could be cool.
*Maybe gold ribbons for the sleeves instead of red
*Getting a third accent colour would also be cool. Red, gold and black is a smashing combo. Something black in the gold trims, and maybe black bands for the sleeves too?
Some inspirational pictures:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/siena/pinturicciosiena1502.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/milano/belleferroniere.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/siena/benvenute1508siena.jpg
ETA: an overdress, like Gem suggested, would also be very cool, and very period.
I second getting rid of the satin ribbon and adding trim, especially around the neckline.
If you have a buttonhole attachment on your machine, you can use contrasting thread to make long slashes in the sleeves.
Like this portrait that operafantomet linked
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/siena/pinturicciosiena1502.jpg
I use gold mettalic thread for this quite a bit.
Add contrasting ribbon ties for the sleeves.
Get a wrist length "poofy" chemise -the one you have on looks fitted at the wrist.
Add trim to the hem of the skirt if you haven't already.
Instead of the ribbon around the waist -a beaded belt of some sort. Also, a caul or a snood for your hair.
A brooch for the front and center of the dress.
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/artgallery1.htm
New sleeves - either gauntlet sleeves or regular sleeves would work better. Check the link above to see their sleeves in period.
Went back and read what you wrote, and I noticed you said the satin band was added for necessity - to make the bodice longer. I can see why just removing it won't work! Maybe finding a similar fabric would work better?
As for "The Borgias" style, the dress would be perfect to wear under a slightly wider overdress, with the typical V opening in front. It's what Lucrezia Borgia wore in life, and also what the TV series loosely copies. You have the perfect basis!
Dresses with overdresses with V front:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/ferrara/roberti1490ferarraportia.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/carpaccio1495b.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze1/ghirlandaio1482.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/roma/unknown15thcsaintvatican1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/roma/pinturicchio1492-95catherine.jpg
ETA: that first link shows a blue overdress with a red underdress, and the sleeves rather remind of yours.
If the dress is too short without the ribbon, that's fine. Wear a contrasting skirt beneath it or add a few inches to the hem in a contrasting color.
See! I know you'd all be able to help! This is what happens when you go back and realize you did not care about historical accuracy several years ago. ::)
I can certainly take the band out, but curse being tall sometimes (though finding people in a crowd is easier). And I do have an olive green skirt that was originally designed to go over a modest hoop, so it's nice and full to go underneath.
I do love the giornea 'overdresses.' It would be an elegant solution for the time being anyway, I think. There's definitely a new chemise in the works since all my others are missing somewhere in the boxes in the basement; guess that's a sign for a new one, right? Of course, I'll go to the fabric store to pick out giornea fabric and end up just buying fabric for the 15th century Italian/Borgia dress. Win-Win, I suppose.
You all are great!
Meg, a cost-effective source for nice cotton damask for a giornea is the table linens section at JC Penney. Try these damask tablecloths (http://www.jcpenney.com/jcp/X6E.aspx?GrpTyp=ENS&ItemID=170eb7c&deptid=70755&dep=KITCHEN+++DINING&catid=74183&pcat=KITCHEN+++DINING&cat=DINING+++ENTERTAINING&NOffset=2&CatSel=4294944852%7Ctable+linens&pcatid=70755&Ne=949+4294957900+5+1031+586+1029+8+18+904+833&N=4294944852&SO=0&cattyp=RLE&Nao=0&PSO=0&CmCatId=70755%7C74183). I used two of the largest oblong ones to make my purple kirtle (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/4707019/396625369.jpg), and had plenty left over for sleeves (I'm not tall, though).
Gorgeous color! I always forget about tablecloths (unless it's at Christmas time and that mental note just goes out the window. LOL). Thanks for the reminder!
Megsie, I also saw this week that Walmart has some really pretty damask curtains for cheap, as well as sheer voile ones on awesome markdown!
Quote from: gem on July 02, 2011, 11:04:44 AM
Meg, a cost-effective source for nice cotton damask for a giornea is the table linens section at JC Penney. Try these damask tablecloths (http://www.jcpenney.com/jcp/X6E.aspx?GrpTyp=ENS&ItemID=170eb7c&deptid=70755&dep=KITCHEN+++DINING&catid=74183&pcat=KITCHEN+++DINING&cat=DINING+++ENTERTAINING&NOffset=2&CatSel=4294944852%7Ctable+linens&pcatid=70755&Ne=949+4294957900+5+1031+586+1029+8+18+904+833&N=4294944852&SO=0&cattyp=RLE&Nao=0&PSO=0&CmCatId=70755%7C74183). I used two of the largest oblong ones to make my purple kirtle (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/4707019/396625369.jpg), and had plenty left over for sleeves (I'm not tall, though).
Slightly off-topic, but that damask in green is fantastic!
Now that you seem to know what you are going to add to your dress, I would love to see pictures when it's finished! And I'm sure others would as well.
I just found another great inspirational photo! The base dress looks a lot like yours, Meg, but it's been embellished like crazy!
(http://www.historical-costumes.eu/Renaissance_kostuem_Stockhausen_vorne.404x594.jpg)
It's from this German (?) costumers' website (http://www.historical-costumes.eu/renaissance.html).
Ooh, I rather like that...
love the color!
That's beautiful! Of course I had to spend time looking all over that site. ^_^
But yes, there will be pictures once I finish. It looks like the red will be a nice sort of 'underdress' and new sleeves are definitely in order. JCPenny, Walmart, look out!
Quote from: gem on July 02, 2011, 02:31:48 AM
I don't think it necessarily looks "un-noble," but I do think actually looks more Regency than Ren at the moment--probably because it's a single layer and all the same color. So the first thing I'd do is think about incorporating more layers. How's your fabric stash? Anything you could turn into a giornea (http://www.angelfire.com/zine/kiarapanther/garb/giornea.html) to wear over it? I'd also probably bead the heck out of the bodice! Either an allover pattern, or some beaded trim around the neckline (also bead the sleeves).
For inspiration, check out this ensemble by Lynn McMasters:
(http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/miditalianfullsize/overdress.jpeg)
Gem, I've seen this gown before but couldn't remember where to find it, it is completely droolable!!! Thanks for posting it!
Quote from: gem on July 02, 2011, 11:04:44 AM
Meg, a cost-effective source for nice cotton damask for a giornea is the table linens section at JC Penney. Try these damask tablecloths (http://www.jcpenney.com/jcp/X6E.aspx?GrpTyp=ENS&ItemID=170eb7c&deptid=70755&dep=KITCHEN+++DINING&catid=74183&pcat=KITCHEN+++DINING&cat=DINING+++ENTERTAINING&NOffset=2&CatSel=4294944852%7Ctable+linens&pcatid=70755&Ne=949+4294957900+5+1031+586+1029+8+18+904+833&N=4294944852&SO=0&cattyp=RLE&Nao=0&PSO=0&CmCatId=70755%7C74183). I used two of the largest oblong ones to make my purple kirtle (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/4707019/396625369.jpg), and had plenty left over for sleeves (I'm not tall, though).
Ooh Gem that plum-ey purple on the kirtle is gorgeous! One of my favorite colors.
So here's an update. I've shortened the 'satin' part and will be covering it with trim and adding a bias edge at the bottom of the dress just to protect it really. The same trim is going to go around the neckline and I'm not sure about the arm-holes (those ugly grommets. Curse my young self). I'm thinking I'll pin it on and get my camera working and see what you ladies think?
I'm also preparing to draft out the giornea bodice to go with it but I wonder what color combo? I do like to do the unusual and I did see a red underdress/blue overdress combo that has some appeal. Black looks great with red but I worry about the sun and heat (after this past weekend, I'm ruling black out) but any strong thoughts on a gold/pale gold color? Would that be 'oh, no, put that back dear,' or is it a good idea? I keep bouncing back and forth and you all have FABULOUS opinions and a wealth of knowledge!
For the grommets you could hand stitch over them to hide them. I did that on my dresses.
Quote from: LadyMeg on July 17, 2011, 09:14:11 PM
I'm also preparing to draft out the giornea bodice to go with it but I wonder what color combo? I do like to do the unusual and I did see a red underdress/blue overdress combo that has some appeal. Black looks great with red but I worry about the sun and heat (after this past weekend, I'm ruling black out) but any strong thoughts on a gold/pale gold color? Would that be 'oh, no, put that back dear,' or is it a good idea? I keep bouncing back and forth and you all have FABULOUS opinions and a wealth of knowledge!
If I am undecided about color combos, I just take a swatch to the fabric store and hold it up to everything they have. You might find some surprising combinations that work well together.
I'm with Dona C--take one of the sleeves to the fabric store with you. Gold and red is a *classic* color combination, so you really can't go wrong with it, but... you did say you were drawn to things that were more unusual, so why not experiment? Maybe a lighter purple, a cocoa, or a rose? The gown now looks like it's leaning toward the terra cotta side of red, is that right? Even a sage green or very pale blue would be lovely.
When I'm playing with color combinations, I'll often trace the outline of the project onto a sheet of paper several times, and pull out my colored pencils.
Can't wait to see the finished ensemble!