I just finished doing myself up a corset pattern on the corset generator. I have material that is heavy, it makes me think of a light canvas, sort of.
My plan is to wear this red corset over a chemise I made earlier this year.
This is my first time, and Im not sure what to get for boning. This is mostly just for looks, not necessarily support, or as a "real" corset.
I have heard of using paint sticks as the busk, and that is what I plan to do.
I have no idea what to buy for boning, and I need something cheap. Like, very cheap. And easily available.
suggestions? thanks.
First, you want it for support. If you are just wearing it for looks -the stays won't be comfortable.
Second, duct ties. I've been using duct ties for five years -if not more- now and I don't think I can go back to steel. The duct ties hold you in and get will conform to your shape so that the stays are comfortable. Just go to your local hardware store (ie, home depot) and go to the duct section. They should have the thick duct ties that are 36" or longer. Zip ties won't work for stays.
You'll find that a lot of forum members are big fans of cable ties for boning. Here's a great thread from a couple of weeks ago on the subject, with information on brands to try and where to find them, etc: http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php?topic=15848.0
The important thing is that you're looking for the *big* ones--they should be about 3/8" wide and come in lengths around 36", not the little skinny things you use to organize cords or whatnot.
The heavy duty Cable Ties for Corsets found in the Industrial Plumbing section of Home Depot and Lowes do work so well. I use them for reinforcement boning in Bodices to prevent Crinkling. Nothing worse than a bodice that crinkles when worn.
I am with isabella on the Steel Boning. I use them if the client requests them. They have gone up in price over the years per each.
thanks for the ideas. any ideas of how much these items would cost? Im kind of in the midst of some serious financial strain:(
another question.....this may well sound dumb. I have sewn quite a lot over the years, and always, always, its right sides together, wrong sides out.
but, the pattern for the corset generator says, "right sides out". Is that right? So Im sewing the wrong sides together, right sides out? and what, just covering up the raw edges? it just seems backwards to me:) lol
thanks.
Today was my last day of summer semester, and I get the first two weeks off since last Christmas, and I want to do something that *I* (not DH, not the kids) want to do, and what I want to do is make a pretty corset:)
Talking with a person at JoAnns a while back, she said she used the green tie straps found at Home Depot that is used to hold the lumber together. She also went to stress that it is free, you just got to go get it/clean it up before the workers there do. She claims it works just as good as cable ties. I have used it for a thing or two, but little sewing items, not a corest.
I *think* Duct ties are under $20 for a very large packet of them. I know I averaged out to about 79 cents a tie once but that was a couple of years back.
As for the stays pattern -yes. Just use bias tape around the edges. It's pretty easy (time consuming, but easy) to make your own.
A quick google search showed that a 50 pack of HVAC Duct ties is around $12.
I use the duct ties at Home Depot. I give them a big thumbs up unless you are building corset as armor. LOL!
I have made the corset from the online corset generator. If it is the same one, I found that it was very tubular. No waist at all, and I was told that is period accurate. However, it is not extremely flattering, (I really really really like my waist), and to be honest, it was uncomfortable. It cut in at my hips something terrible and I was almost ready to just throw it out after a day at fair. Then I decided, to heck with H/A, and sew little half moons on the sides at the waist. (I used upholstery thread and made 3 passes, it is in effect another seam.) Voila. It is now much more flattering, and amazingly comfortable. The pull in at the waist allows the bones to curve out a little at the bottom, so they don't dig in anymore. One more "hint", unless you sew the skirt to the bodice, you will need to wear your chemise over your skirt (like an apron). Otherwise you will probably have gap between the skirt and the corset.
Welcome to making garb. This might be your first corset, but it won't be your last!!! :)
Quote from: Betty Munro on August 18, 2011, 07:10:03 PM
I use the duct ties at Home Depot. I give them a big thumbs up unless you are building corset as armor. LOL!
I have made the corset from the online corset generator. If it is the same one, I found that it was very tubular. No waist at all, and I was told that is period accurate. However, it is not extremely flattering, (I really really really like my waist), and to be honest, it was uncomfortable. It cut in at my hips something terrible and I was almost ready to just throw it out after a day at fair. Then I decided, to heck with H/A, and sew little half moons on the sides at the waist. (I used upholstery thread and made 3 passes, it is in effect another seam.) Voila. It is now much more flattering, and amazingly comfortable. The pull in at the waist allows the bones to curve out a little at the bottom, so they don't dig in anymore. One more "hint", unless you sew the skirt to the bodice, you will need to wear your chemise over your skirt (like an apron). Otherwise you will probably have gap between the skirt and the corset.
Welcome to making garb. This might be your first corset, but it won't be your last!!! :)
It sounds like you may have mismeasured. Where we *think* our waists are and where they really are can be quite a difference. Technically, you waist is where you bend at your sides -not necessarily the smallest point on your torso! I'd suggest a duct tape dress dummy to experiment with.
Also, I have never worn the chemise over the skirt with my stays. If you cut everything to your measurements, you just stick the edges of the skirt under the bottom edge of the stays and it should be fine.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5024/5682133109_681d162ce6_m.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jubileel/5682133109/)
cc29meandsteph (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jubileel/5682133109/) by jubileel_insaneone (http://www.flickr.com/people/jubileel/), on Flickr
I designed the stays myself and the skirt is only 4 + yards of material that has been pleated to a waistband. There isn't a gap anywhere between the stays and the skirt. The entire outfit is H/A in cut.
While I have never done a corset let alone sew much, one of the BEST bonings I saw was done with broom straw. Syrilla did this on a corset/bodice top and she said it was highly comfortable. I have a corset done with plastic ties and I will say this... it bits and it bites hard. Hard enough to leave marks for 2 weeks.
While I have never worn a corset myself, I have made 4 of them with cable ties and everyone found them quite comfortable. I'm not sure where your bites are coming from. Do you have an extra layer of cloth btwn your body and the boning channels?
Also, let me add that I have used cotton webbing (a military web belt) as the busk for all of my corsets. The webbing is thick, stiff, and sturdy. However, it is flexible and breatheable. It allows the wearer to be just a bit more comfortable.
Give it a try, and good luck!
I am, after experimenting, very firmly in the 'use proper boning' camp. It behaves better, looks better lasts longer, and as you can cut it to the exact length you want off the roll, there is little or no waste. And it's works out very comparably per usable inch to the large cable ties I can get here.
For corsets that would have used baleen or withy, I tend to use a plastic trifold boning that comes in several widths. The very narrow stuff looks great for things like the 18th C stays in the V&A. I use a combination of this and flat steel: two lengths of heavy 5/8"flat steel for the busk and one each side of the laces up the back, plus the plastic everywhere else seems to work fine. This one, based on the corset generator pattern, is built like this:
(http://pics.livejournal.com/katexxxxxx/pic/002tywaz/s640x480) (http://pics.livejournal.com/katexxxxxx/pic/002tzp5s/s640x480)
Internal shots:
(http://pics.livejournal.com/katexxxxxx/pic/002x4sar/s640x480) (http://pics.livejournal.com/katexxxxxx/pic/002x58y7/s640x480)
If you go with the duct tie plastic boning, trim the edges "round". They will bite if you just cut them straight across. I make my straight cut, then trim a little from each corner. Each end gets 3 cuts. I just read online to use a flame (candle or lighter) to slightly melt the edges to "soften" them. Also, when determining how long to make your bone, give at least 5/8" on each side for the casing. I think you are better to be a little short in the boning, than to be a little too long, which will cause the boning to eventually push through the fabric.
Kate, your corset is gorgeous, I think I should try that pattern again with tabs! I see your boning goes all the way into the tabs - I bet that helps a LOT in the comfort factor!
I didn't put tabs on my corset generator pattern, that would make a difference in covering the waistband and maybe helping it to stay put. I will search for threads specifically about the corset generator pattern, I am delighted with the plethora of information that abounds with this group!!!
I still push straw, thin reeds, for straight boned corset.
I now have two that I have used a total of 8 years, and will never make another for my renaissance corsets. It is the most comfortable and best wearing straight corset that I have EVER worn. Over the years it has lightly "molded" to my body, so when I put it on, I can relax into it much quicker and easier. In fact, they both look like the extant one when layed "flat"
I do use metal for the boning area.
Syrilla, 2 corsets made from the corset generator pattern? Or two (of what pattern, do tell) with straw boning?
Ok, I think I have done something incorrectly.
The front looks good, but the back rounds at the top and comes down to a point at the bottom. Looking at some pics on the forum, it seems like the back center opening should be more squarish and straight? Not rounded at the top?
Also, I have probably 2-3 inches left over on each side of the back opening, when I just wrap it around me...is that supposed to be there? or should I trim it down?
Quote from: jackrocks on August 19, 2011, 09:15:56 AM
Ok, I think I have done something incorrectly.
The front looks good, but the back rounds at the top and comes down to a point at the bottom. Looking at some pics on the forum, it seems like the back center opening should be more squarish and straight? Not rounded at the top?
Also, I have probably 2-3 inches left over on each side of the back opening, when I just wrap it around me...is that supposed to be there? or should I trim it down?
Pictures, please? I don't want to say one thing when the problem is something else completely. Pictures help greatly.
You should have 2 - 3 inches of gap, not extra. (Squish factor)
I have been known to modify a pattern, so I can't be sure if I changed the back. I remember I did make the front bottom longer (to cover my tummy better). Anyway, the back of mine (corset pattern generator corset) does come to a point at the bottom and kind of has a very shallow heart shape on the top. I'll get a picture in a few minutes. Don't cut anything yet - post pictures for us first.
Although mine is far from perfect, it can at least serve to give you some reference. I have to dress myself for faire, so I made the lacing in the front. The middle of the corset is the back. You can see it comes to a point on the bottom, and the slight curve at the top. I hope it helps some.
(http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/annemorgan_photos/corsetgeneratorpattern.jpg)
ok, I have the paint sticks to make the busk for the bodice, now how do I turn the paint sticks into the busk....do they go in separately, or attached? straight down the front, right?
thanks.
Quote from: Betty Munro on August 19, 2011, 01:54:25 PM
Although mine is far from perfect, it can at least serve to give you some reference. I have to dress myself for faire, so I made the lacing in the front. The middle of the corset is the back. You can see it comes to a point on the bottom, and the slight curve at the top. I hope it helps some.
(http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/annemorgan_photos/corsetgeneratorpattern.jpg)
Sorry to jump in, but did you build this corset to have a busk in front, and what did you use?
at some point I will need to make a front lacing corset, since my hubby has arthritis in his hands and lacing me up in back (first the corset, then the dress) hurts him.
Betty M, I have done both. But the two corsets I was talking about are based on the effigy corsets.
Quote from: jackrocks on August 20, 2011, 07:59:36 AM
ok, I have the paint sticks to make the busk for the bodice, now how do I turn the paint sticks into the busk....do they go in separately, or attached? straight down the front, right?
I have not done a corset with a busk, but I do know for sure that they go right down the front. You are correct. I assume you use 2 paint sticks because just 1 would possibly snap. I think I would use wood glue to permanently join them together, then cut with a saw (trying to curve the edges as much as possible to prevent digging into my flesh), then sand sand sand as smooth as possible. If you plan to wash your corset, then you will need to make the busk removeable. I don't know the process for that.
Syrilla, I LOVE my effigy based corset - but it laces up the back, so until I find an official corset lacer, I can't wear it.
Rowen, my corset generator pattern corset does not have a busk, it laces up the front. It does have (plastic cable tie) boning on both sides of the grommets.
I skipped the busk called for in my Simplicity corset, because I lacked the skills and equipment to do the woodworking. I just boned it straight across, and haven't noticed a difference in silhouette or support.
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/22511199/387657677.jpg)
You should be able to alter an existing corset to allow for front lacing. Just cut up the center, bind the edges, and add your eyelets. Or you could use a front-hooking Victorian busk to make it even easier: https://www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com/products.php?cat=busk
In the meantime, you can spare your DH some pain by pre-lacing as much as you can. That's how I get into a couple of mine. Using long laces, put the corset on backward (leaving the straps down), and lace it up yourself, just tightly enough that it stays up. Then twist it around to the back, and then all your DH has to do is tighten everything up. If it's spiral-laced with a long enough cord, you might even be able to do that yourself, too.
How is the corset coming jackrocks? If you need help getting pictures posted to the forum I can help you. PM me. Your experience making your first corset can make or break subsequent attempts. We can never have to many home garbers to bounce ideas around, so we are all rooting for you!
How you make the busk removeable is to make the busk tunnel a pocket with the opening at the bottom. Then, add two grommets at the bottom. Place the busk in the pocket, mark the two grommet holes onto the busk, remove the busk and drill two holes that correspond with the grommeted holes in the corset. When you put the busk in, secure it with a ribbon through the aligned holes.
I paraphrased this from the Reconstructing History patterns.
I never thought of just not making a busk channel! When I've made my pairs of bodies, I've always used a softer busk; I used a piece of thick cotton webbing (a web belt, actually). It works great!
Hi, thanks! Its coming along. this was supposed to be my relaxing week off school, right? So we started off last week with a little 2 day trip to the west side of MI, and it was great. Came home and Monday morning woke up to find our truck had been vandalized, some little idiots took my own rocks and smashed out the windows. grr. Of course, once it was in the shop to fix, they found more wrong with it. Then we got some more aggravating news. Its just been a bummer week. So I havent had the calm and relaxing week of project working that I wanted.
But, things are slowing back down now and yesterday, I decided, after lots of reading, that I should probably have more than two layers of fabric. So I added another red canvas-y layer, and a piece of white, stiff material from the stash for the back ( I got thinking maybe the layer that goes towards my white chemise should probably not be red).
Of course, once I got it all together and sat down to work, the machine kept knotting thread in a very aggravating fashion. Eventually, I changed the needle and that made things better :)
So yesterday I got the four layers put together, I got the waistline and back edges sewn together and that went well. I have started to make lines for the busk, and measuring that out. Today I want to get those channels, at least, done. I do have a busk question....is the busk supposed to point at the bottom and fit into the little "v" point of the bodice front? I asked my husband for the saw and some sandpaper last night and he was confused:) but said he'll go find me some today in the garage where the tool-ish things are....and I have no idea where they would be. I want to sew the front boning channels and then, if it still seems too long in the back, I'll cut some. Im just scared to cut too early....you cant grow more material once its off!
My material is plain, but I have plans for some lace and beads in the stash:) to pretty it up. I am excited and hope it fits well. Im not what anyone would call "petite" and I hope it comes out not slouchy and holds up "the girls" well:) I am going to use a lot of boning bc I really dont want it to look slouchy/lumpy.
Is it fine to not use grommets and just make eyelets instead?
thanks for all the help, Im sure I'll have more questions as I get further, you guys are great.:)
I don't know about the busk, so I'll leave that to the more experienced.
About the boning channels. My opinion, if you use the heavy duty duct ties, make 5/8 " boning channels and put in as many as you can. You don't want the boning to be squeezed it too tight. I start from the front middle and work all the way around to the back. Then from the front middle and go around the other way. (Or in this case, on either side of your busk.) I have seen lots of angled boning, (need some input here), but I don't know the "rules" for the angles, so I just go straight up and down all the way around. It works for me. I will skip a few bones on the sides and back, but the front really needs to be fully boned. I consider it bodice armor. I have tried going with less boning thinking it would be more comfortable, but the truth is the more support (boning) the more comfortable, and simply, the better it looks. You can see in gem's pair of bodies/corset/bodice that it is fully boned. That's the way to go. I can usually bone 2 corsets with a pack of duct ties, but I'm a size 12/14 (which, btw is an 18/20 in Simplicity patterns). If you get 1 corset out of a pack of zip ties then it is still quite cost effective. If you end up hating this bodice and make a 2nd (improved) bodice, then you can always cut the boning out and re-use it.
What do you mean by "make eyelets"? Hand sew around the holes? I think that would be more h/a, but will take a long time, and has to be done by hand. We definitely have ladies here that do that! I'm lazy, so I go with the grommets. Whatever you do, don't use metal eyelets. (They look like grommets, but are only one piece, and generally smaller. They will not hold up to the strain of a corset and will soon pull out of the fabric. You can't get grommets at the fabric/craft store. You have to get them from the hardware store.
yeah, thats what I meant by "eyelets". Just buttonhole stitch around the hole. I just wondered if it would be pull once its laced up:)
I am doing the boning right now. :) so far, so good.
As long as you have a boning channel on either side of the eyelets, you will be fine. What kind of machine do you have? Some machines (for example, Viking, I think Bernina, and maybe one or two others) have eyelet plates you can get, so that you can do them all by machine (as long as you do them before you put your bones in). It's really handy, and goes way faster.
I had great intentions of making this bodice slowly, taking my time and enjoying it.
But....I accidentally got excited and yesterday I finished all the channels, bought the boning, slipped that all in, bound all the raw edges with red bias tape, finished the top except for the part where the busk will go in (I have it measured out, I just need to cut it and sand it).
Today I started the eyelets in the back for lacing. My brain is already thinking ahead as to what fabric I might have in the stash to start a second one. :) this is fun.
Mistakes I have made....I went too fast, and some of my channels are not exactly straight. But that is something to remember for next time. I dont think I would make another one with such plain fabric again, bc it really shows every little mistake. But, thats what lace is for, right? lol
the guy at the hardware store did ask me what I was doing with all those cable ties, and I said I was making something to wear to the ren faire, and he seemed perplexed. :) baffled, even.
Question: if your only choices to use for lacing were thin ribbon, or lace strips, which would you choose?
I don't know what "lace strips" are, but shoestrings make excellent laces for corsets/bodices. My pink corset uses black athletic laces, and my new kirtle uses black waxed dress shoe laces. They're cheap, they're strong, they grip properly (ribbon will slip), you can buy them anywhere (or steal them from your shoes), and they already have the aglets/tips attached. Win, win, win, win.
I've had good results with ribbon for laces. If you go with the fairly thin width (I think app .25"), it slides through the eyelets very well, and is not messy like wider ribbon. Plus you can get it in tons of colors. I would not recommend it if you were using metal grommets, though, since it could probably catch and tear.
Oooooh, you are so close, I can't wait to see pictures!
And delighted that you are already imagining your next bodice! They are addictive!
Suggestion. When you do your next corset, you might want to try not sewing boning channels through all layers of fabric. I use 3 layers, 2 heavy cotton, (non-stretch denim or canvas or duck - whatever was in the remnants bin) and 1 "fashion" fabric. I sew the seams and boning channels in the 2 heavy layers. Add the bones. Then I sew the seams in the "fashion" fabric. Put the cotton layers and fashion fabric wrong sides together, pin at the seams, pin baste the edges. Case the top, case the bottom. Trim the side so all 3 layers are even and case. Trim the other side even and case. The heavy cotton layers do the job of supporting my body. The fashion fabric just looks good. If the boning shows through, that's ok, but I don't have the stitches of the boning channels showing anymore, so if they aren't perfectly straight, it really doesn't matter. (I only used 2 layers on my chocolate bodice I posted the picture of. It's one of my early attempts.)
I've had the same strange confused look when I need help to find the boning, uh, I mean heavy duty duct ties, and think that explaining what I am using it for will help.
Congrats on the first corset! I used the corset generator for mine as well, and it DID take some adjusting to the pattern to get it just right - I think I went through 3 or 4 mockups - a horribly discouraging business, since each mockup had to be all but finished (which, as you know, it A LOT of work!), but the resulting corset is perfect for me! It is now in it's second resurection - I remade it earlier this season, using the old one as my pattern.
I am fan of NOT covering the sturdy fabric with fashion fabric - but usually no one sees my "underthings" - if however you are wearing it as outerwear, you may want to. I prefer tabs at the waist - it does distribute the weight better, and does not cut in uncomfortably.
I live relatively close to farthingales.ca, so I tend to buy steel boning for my corsets - shipping is fast, and though it is more costly than cable ties, I like the thinness of the boning. They do a wide bone that I use 4 of - it is 1/2 inch thick, and I put 2 side by side (each in their own channel) in the center front, and 1 on each side of center back. The bones are right at the edge, THEN the eyelets (I actually DO use eyelets, but I sew around them to keep them in place - I don't like the look of the BIG holes that grommets produce - just a personal thing). The bigger bones at the edge keep things sturdy, and provide great support for my back!
this has to be the only place where, when someone asks what Im doing, and I say Im boning..........
nobody else turns red and starts giggling.
Or even worse ... "help, I need better boning" ...
ok, now I am giggling :-[
yes, the other night, we were at a family dinner at a restuarant, and I was discussing my project and mentioned I needed the large cable ties for something. My BIL said he thought he had some at home, did I want them? and I said sure, he goes....so, what do you need them for?
I answered honestly, and said I was using them for boning.
He's such a perv, he got all confused and giggly at the same time.
But if I went through the whole reason I needed them, other peoples attention drifts away:)
I am usually a super huge perv, and LOVE inuendos. But I take my garb construction so seriously that it just never occured to me ... well until now. I'll never be able to slide the bone into the channel anymore without giggling. sick sick sick LOL
So how are you coming along?
all I have left is to finish the eyelets along the back, I have three to go. Then I need to decided if Im going to add lace, Im going to pin the lace a few ways and see if I like it.
Yesterday I found out my niece got a job at Hollygrove fair (MI) and needs to dress for work, so I offered to show her how to do it:) You know...see one, do one, teach one:)
Today Im going clean my "sewing area" in the basement, sort through all my stash material, see if there is anything that I could use to make another one.
I need to quit focusing on my outfit and start something for my husband, in case we are able to go soon. lol
AWESOME!!!
Quote from: Betty Munro on August 24, 2011, 08:01:58 PM
I am usually a super huge perv, and LOVE inuendos. But I take my garb construction so seriously that it just never occured to me ... well until now. I'll never be able to slide the bone into the channel anymore without giggling. sick sick sick LOL
So how are you coming along?
LOL! You are one of my favorites here, you crack me up. I know, don't play favorites. But I just think you are the bees knees. If that had knees!
Anyways, I've been going through lots of 'firsts' for corsets, because I want to learn how to sew. Going to start a thread and see where everyone started. Unless I can find it first.
jackrocks, please don't hesitate to let us know where you learned some things. I for one, would love to know so I can learn from you. :)
For lacing, I use the nylon cord purchased at Hobby Lobby. It is about the size of shoe lacing, but comes in many colors, and doesn't cost much.
Also, when I install the grommets, I do them off-set so the lacing is spiral and not the X pattern.
My corset is done. Well, structurally, its done. Embellishment is ongoing:) Right now Im putting some strips of off white lace along the front. Last night, I deconstructed an old....very old, beaded necklace some elderly family member gave my daughters (nothing nice, and nothing they wanted), in order to get to the off white and gold seed beads and they will be going on the corset in some pattern that Ive yet to imagine.
I have the materail for my next corset in the wash. For the second go round, I want to do a reversible. I may run into a problem as one side will be off white, green and gold, and the flip side is navy, purple, and dark red. Is that okay, to do really different colored sides? I will really n eed to think about how I do the trim and eyelets.
Do you guys ever wonder why, even though you KNOW you shouldnt do something, you do it anyway? I was so tired last night, and I kept thinking I would stop in ten minutes, etc. Then I looked at the lace I had just done, and realized I needed to sew it down differently, bc you could really see the thread. So I proceeded to rip all the stitching from the line.
then I turned it over and realized I had ripped all the stitching from a completely different strip of lace. One that was perfectly fine.
I KNOW I shouldnt sew when Im tired. and yet I do it anyway. I confuse myself!
Quote from: jackrocks on August 26, 2011, 10:11:31 AM
Do you guys ever wonder why, even though you KNOW you shouldnt do something, you do it anyway? I was so tired last night, and I kept thinking I would stop in ten minutes, etc. Then I looked at the lace I had just done, and realized I needed to sew it down differently, bc you could really see the thread. So I proceeded to rip all the stitching from the line.
then I turned it over and realized I had ripped all the stitching from a completely different strip of lace. One that was perfectly fine.
I KNOW I shouldnt sew when Im tired. and yet I do it anyway. I confuse myself!
LOL! Yeap! Normally I don't notice until the next morning and realize I sewed the sleeve wrong and have to rip it apart, again!
Tore out the perfectly fine sewed lace? I would have then CRIED myself to sleep! Oh No!!!
To go with totally different colors on a reversible corset is the whole point, isn't it? I guess the only issue is that you will use the same color binding, so you want to have at least that to work out on both sides. I can't figure out how to make a reversible corset. I always turn under my binding and hand sew the ends down. I don't know how to do the binding so it looks finished on both sides. I'll be interested to see how you do yours so I can copy the technique!
Quote from: Betty Munro on August 26, 2011, 05:10:13 PM
Tore out the perfectly fine sewed lace? I would have then CRIED myself to sleep! Oh No!!!
To go with totally different colors on a reversible corset is the whole point, isn't it? I guess the only issue is that you will use the same color binding, so you want to have at least that to work out on both sides. I can't figure out how to make a reversible corset. I always turn under my binding and hand sew the ends down. I don't know how to do the binding so it looks finished on both sides. I'll be interested to see how you do yours so I can copy the technique!
Practically, you can't make a corset/bodice reversible. The boning is supposed to conform to your figure. This is very evident if you make stays with reed, straw, or duct ties. After one wear, the stays will flare out in certain places where you flare out.
I've tried it with steel boning a long time ago but even the stiffer fabrics want to be one way and not the other -and you'll get pinched a bit if you wear it one way rather than the other.
Now, I've seen several people try it but most people end up only wearing the stays/corset one way and not the other due to the pinching, the boning flaring out, or because of other issues.
Isabella, that makes for a "duh"! moment. Looking at my favorite and best fitting bodice, it would be impossible to wear it the wrong way out. The bones and fabric have conformed to fit my body perfectly. I think this is an excellent example of "just because you see someone has done it, doesn't mean it needs to be done". I'll just happily keep sewing down my binding ends and not worry about the inside looking perfect! YAY! Thanks for the advice.
I haven't had any pinching happen with my reversible corset, but I don't often wear it pink side out, since I like the blue and white side better.
I didn't bind my tabs like you're supposed to - I just sewed the two layers wrong sides out (after doing the bias tape boning channels, but before I stuck the boning in), and clipped all the corners, and turned the tabs. I did clip one corner too closely, and wound up reinforcing with clear nail polish or superglue or something, but it's held up very well for the last year. I did bind the top though - mine is strapless, so it was really easy. I just did a very neat binding job with the bias tape, so it looks the same on both sides.
shoot, that is disappointing. I had plans!! wah wah wah.
I was thinking I could save $ by doing the reversible, and I had seen it done. I have lots of fabric, its just the cost of the boning supplies. Right now, we're both unemployed (but dh had a testing interview yesterday! first in two years!) and with four kids, money is just so tight.
Especially getting them set for back to school next week.
since Im already excited for the fabric, and I already have the bias tape and thread, I think maybe I will just go ahead and make two, and leave the tops undone. Maybe I'll luck out and make some money at my MIL's yard sale, or I could ask for them for Christmas:) lol
Is ribbon 1/8 inch wide too thin to use as lacing?
Ribbon isn't great for lacing in general. It unravels and it isn't meant to hold up to the strain. You have to replace it every other time you wear a bodice! Instead, I (and I think many others here) use good old shoelaces. Boot laces are awesome and you can get custom lengths at more outdoor stores like REI. However, just getting the 45" ones at the grocery store works too. Get the boot laces and not the kind you use on your keds (aka, not the flat ones).
sigh. alright.
but shoelaces arent very pretty, and I have so much lace and pretty beads on the bodice. ;(
Maybe I can cover the shoelaces with lace. lol
I have used both ribbon and shoelaces. The ribbon slides out as fast as it tightens up, so it can be difficult to get laced up. It stretches a little over the day, so after lunch I have to retighten. I'm a little afraid it will just snap, so I have to carry an extra ribbon with me. Shoelaces are just easier to work with. White laces can be dyed if needed. I use shoelaces now.
Yourlocal fabric store should have something appropriate- just look for a narrow cord - and despite the temptation, stay away from anything shiney. Shiney cord will not stay tied, slips easily, and ravels.
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/19790/corsets-from-the-hardware-store (http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/19790/corsets-from-the-hardware-store)
Even someone from Threads magazine tried the zip ties.
I always use ribbon to lace my bodices, and I've never had a problem with it ??? I think it probably depends on how much you're depending on your bodice to do. I put a lot of strain on my corsets and then make my bodices to fit snugly but not super-tight. There isn't a lot of strain on the lacing this way, and ribbon has worked great. I've been using one length for a year on one of my bodices, and it's held up just fine.
Working on a new bodice last night and noticed that the cable duct ties that I've been using for years seem not quite as sturdy now. Not sure what happened to the quality but it's the same stuff I've always bought. Anyone else notice this?
I've noticed a difference in sturdiness between brands but if you are using the same brand as usual, mayhap they changed them to save money.
I agree, the duct ties seem just a little less stiff. Still perfectly effective, but a little easier to cut.
I am finishing up a test run of a corset from the Corset maker, and since I am so long waisted and have a tummy to boot. I'm going to go back in and eliminate the busk and Bone place boning in the front. It won't look correct on the test run, but once I figure out all the tricks, the next one should work perfect.
I have learned a lot from everyone on this thread, Making my first Stays from the generator was much easier once I read through everyone's thoughts and ideas. Thank you
jackrocks, did I miss the finished corset photo?
Lady Gryphon, please post pics.
I'm just dying to see some other newbies work. You might not think it is good enough, but believe me it will inspire others to try too.
I haven't finished the hand stitching yet, but will try to get finished with it this weekend. If I'm lucky and get the finish work nice it will be reversable if I want. I made 4 layers, the inner layer has all the boning and casements for them, the Stitch lines I had to draw, and the rest, then I used a couple of pieces of nicer material for the "Nice" sides.
I've been sewing a good part of my life, just never made anything from the 17th century. It's taken me many hours of research and letters to a couple very nice and helpful forum members to get me through this. Thank you Ladies, you know who you are.
Photo's to follow as soon as I get it finished.
we have been camping. and my school semester just started back up (as well as my four kids!) so its been really busy. We went to fair on Saturday, the bodice looked good, I thought. There are some things I plan to change for the next one....I think it was a bit too tall....bc when I sat down, the top almost covered my chemise neckline. I need to shorten the back center sides, bc the tightest I could get it laced, wasnt tight enough...I could still see a gap in the front when I looked down, between my chemise and my bodice. Also, could not get it tight enough to pop "the girls" up, like I wanted to. But I think it looked good.
When we get home from camping, I will post some pics of us. I finished my husbands waistcoat buttonholes at 12 noon Saturday:) lol and we left about 130.
I didn't intend to sound so demanding. :) just begging, and letting you know there is interest in your success. Camping and faire and 4 kids. Sounds quite wonderful if not very busy!!!
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.107951425979532.13317.100002940258423&l=e55ff45b61&type=1
certainly not as fancy as most here.....but finished and wearable, all the same!:)
The only issue I had with my bodice is that it seemed a little bit "tall"...as when I would sit down, the top came up over my chemise. The next one, I will make shorter in the back, as I could not lace it tight enough.....there was still a gap between the chemise and bodice....but it held up fine, no slipping or anything.
I have material to start a new one...I wonder...a family member donated a pile of cable ties...the smaller ones, to me...I wondered if I could use those as boning...there have to be about 40, maybe 50 of them. I know they arent as sturdy as the larger ones, but they are stiff, and it seems like with so many of them, maybe they would work?
You can always double them up, and use two in every channel.
Quote from: jackrocks on September 16, 2011, 07:29:31 AM
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.107951425979532.13317.100002940258423&l=e55ff45b61&type=1
The only issue I had with my bodice is that it seemed a little bit "tall"...as when I would sit down, the top came up over my chemise. The next one, I will make shorter in the back, as I could not lace it tight enough.....there was still a gap between the chemise and bodice....but it held up fine, no slipping or anything.
It's hard to tell because of your arm, but the bodice seems quite long over the hips. That would definitely participate in pushing it up when sitting. You could probably drop 2-3 inches there, while keeping the length in front and eventually also in the back. No matter what style you're going for, it'll be both historically advisable and also more comfortable to you to make the bodice higher in the side waist. You see how high these bodices really are cut over the hips? It's only the front that is long:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/veronese1555douai.jpg
http://onthetudortrail.com/Blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Elizabeth.jpg
http://www.marileecody.com/isabel.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/cremona/donnacremona.jpg
ETA: I second Butch's advice on using double of the cable ties, if they're small/narrow. I use rigilene (false whalebone) for most of my bodices, and when I want them to be a bit more sturdy, I use double layers. It works like a dream, and I'm sure it'll be similar with the cable ties. They remind quite a bit in velocity.
ETA 2: I know that historical accuracy isn't the goal of every single person on this world. I have lots of love for non-H/A outfits as well! But often there's a reason why they did stuff the way they did, and in this case comfort (as well as optical illusion of slim torsos) made them construct the bodices as they did. When borrowing the best of pure looks one should borrow the best of their comfort as well - if that makes sense.
Thanks for the pictures operafantomet!
It looks like the donnacremona portrait has her in a bodice that is too big also.
Nice work on your first bodice jackrocks! It does look like it is too big for you. Also, you'll be more comfortable (and have a more slimming sillouette) if you cut up higher over the hips. It certainly is an excellent starting point and you can modify this pattern to make generation #2 even better!
I think as long as the cable ties are long enough, you can use thinner ones and double up.
Happy corseting!!!
so, if I modify my pattern to sit about 2 inches higher on the sides, and shorten the back edges about 2 inches or so (so that I can lace it tighter), would those moves assist in a more "push up" effect in the front? (bc that is what I would like)
How short is too short on the sides? Should you be able to see the tucked in chemise from the sides, or should it still be long enough to cover that? do you think I should alter the pattern so that the top is a bit lower, as well?
I think my next one I will sew by hand, at least most of it. It will take longer, but I feel like I can be more precise about the stitches when I do it that way. Plus, I like to hand sew when Im not in a super hurry:)
thanks!!!
I don't think the front top needs to be lower, you want to push up, not spill over. :)
It will help a LOT to make it tighter. Are you taking off 2" from each side, or just 1" on each side? I think 4" total is a good start, you might be surprised how much squish factor there is.
If you don't want your chemise to show between your corset and outer skirt, (it shouldn't if it is worn under your skirt) then you have to take into account where your waistband is to determine how far up you can cut away at the hips. Put your skirt and corset back on and pin where you want to make changes on the sides.
I wish there was a way to not have to finish a bodice to really know how it is going to fit, but they really have to be laced tight to know ... and I don't know any other way to do that then to finish it.
thanks Betty, you guys have been so much help:) Not having owned or worn a corset/bodice before, I wasnt sure about fitting it. I got scared about taking off too much fabric, and just wrapping it around me to check for fit couldnt really show me much, other than that it wasnt too small, YKWIM?
I think I will take about 2 inches off EACH side....bc on my current one, the back sides actually meet.....so I think 2 inches off each side would be reasonable.