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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: gem on September 02, 2011, 03:09:46 PM

Title: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: gem on September 02, 2011, 03:09:46 PM
I'm pretty familiar with the MA women's patterns, but I'm wondering if anyone here has used the Elizabethan Men's ensemble, and might have photos to share?  I'm trying to pick out a doublet pattern (from my stash) for Milord, and seeing some finished versions of the candidates would help tremendously.  (I've already collected images of Simplicity 4059 and OOP McCall 4695.) I just don't know that pattern well enough to spot it "in the wild."  ;)

Gramercy!!
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on September 02, 2011, 03:17:13 PM
I have used the MA Men's Eiizabethan Ensemble patern many times. I love it! it goes from very Small chest to almsot a 60". Men come in all shapes and sizes, as do women. So it's a grat pattern to adjust depending on the measurements. The attached instruction Handbook is worth the price of the package.

Though I perfer the paned Slops Pattern from Fantasy Fashions, however.
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: Orphena on September 03, 2011, 04:48:06 AM
I have it, have looked at it, examined it, but not yet attempted it. Sometimes it seems way more complicated than it needs to be! Paned slops are a great example - I think there are 7 layers to them! 7?? Really? Eventually I will get around to trying them - I MIGHT have tried the doublet, but I honestly cannot remember which one of m'lord's doublets that was!

Despitethat, I still LOVE to have them in my library - they are great even to look at!
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: Alisoun on September 03, 2011, 08:38:59 AM
I like the options that are given with all of the MAs, and I'm pretty sure I can make the men's pattern in my sleep. I haven't figured out how to make the doublet collar close, so I have to tweak the pattern each time. The slops can be a pain basting all the layers together, but I do feel a sense of accomplishment when I finish a new pair. I might make some for myself without the stuffing--my low-rise Venetian breeches were my favorite piece for a while.

(http://alisoun.files.wordpress.com/2008/08/mghusband.jpg) (http://alisoun.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/img_3029.jpg) (http://alisoun.files.wordpress.com/2010/01/ck.jpg) (http://alisoun.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/cropfrednoble2011.jpg)

1 - Shirt (full sleeve), Slops (long with 4 panes each leg), Doublet (two piece front, closed seams)
2 - Venetian breeches (gathered knee), doublet (one piece front altered for two fabrics)
3 - Slops (were supposed to be short), doublet (one piece front, has sleeves), cloak
4 - Shirt (with ruffles), Slops (8 smaller panes) with codpiece, doublet (one piece front, laced to slops at the waist) -- I'm making a second doublet with open seams to go over this one (jerkin?).

I agree with Lady Kathleen about the manual, it really is great. I always find that the MA instructions end up helping me with other patterns, even if it's just to have construction methods explained differently.
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: Master James on September 06, 2011, 01:30:15 PM
All of my garb has been made with it.  We love them and they work great!  One thing we did find however is that you really need to make a mock first as her patterns tend to run large or small in certain areas, specifically the crotch for one (large on breeches, small on slops).  Here are some pictures of some of what we've made for me using them.

(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o47/rennpics/DSC06634.jpg)

(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o47/rennpics/DSC06637.jpg)

(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o47/rennpics/2008MDRF-FinalWk-004.jpg)
That is all Margo for my FOP

(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o47/rennpics/2008PARFFinalWk-032.jpg)
I'm on the far left

(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o47/rennpics/2007VARF255.jpg)

Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: Rowan MacD on October 22, 2011, 09:31:16 AM
  Thanks for the pictures!. I just ordered this pattern from MA.  How hard will it be for a relative newbie to sew?


   
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on October 22, 2011, 09:36:47 AM
Should you need some advie, let me know.

The patterns are designed for multiple sizes. There are a lot of pieces. It is important to make sure you have accurate measurements so thatn then finished product looks as you envision it.

Be sure to read through the instruction booklet first before laying out, cutting, etc. Making a mockup of a Doublet out of cheapy fabric will save you tons of hours of frustration.
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: Rowan MacD on October 22, 2011, 01:29:39 PM
   A lot of people recommend making a muslin mock up of the garment for fitting.  I assume the mockup pieces can be used as a customized pattern in the future?
    As long as the pieces are well marked that is ;).
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: Butch on October 22, 2011, 07:39:38 PM
I made a doublet from this pattern.  Did you see Michael with his blackworked sleeve garb?  The big difference is the collar.  The back has an extension that makes the rear of the collar, and the sides are attached and come around to the front.  It wasn't too hard to make.
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: Rowan MacD on October 23, 2011, 09:53:00 AM
  Which picture is Micheal?  The Olive green doublet?

Is the collar sort of like this? The Brigantine bodice by Odd Bodkin-
http://oddbodkin.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=120&products_id=573
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: Rowan MacD on October 23, 2011, 09:56:10 AM
Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on October 22, 2011, 09:36:47 AM
Should you need some advie, let me know.

The patterns are designed for multiple sizes. There are a lot of pieces. It is important to make sure you have accurate measurements so thatn then finished product looks as you envision it.

Be sure to read through the instruction booklet first before laying out, cutting, etc. Making a mockup of a Doublet out of cheapy fabric will save you tons of hours of frustration.
So I can use the Mock up later as a pattern of sorts? Tissue patterns (MA says hers are) aren't very durable, and I plan to reuse them a lot.
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: gem on October 23, 2011, 10:29:22 AM
Rowan, the whole point of the mockup is to test out the pattern and make alterations and adjustments... and then take it apart again and use it for the pattern. So in a word: yes. :)

As for the patterns... prepare to be totally overwhelmed. Nothin' like seeing 20 sizes all laid out together!  What I usually see recommended is either tracing the patterns onto something more durable, or fusing them onto lightweight interfacing.

She gives extensive instructions for altering patterns by merging sizes, so unless the man you're sewing for is unusually proportional, you'll almost certainly need to keep the various sizes intact... hence the recommendation to trace/fuse.
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: Butch on October 23, 2011, 11:12:36 AM
Mikie is here:  http://www.pbase.com/delaneyalysa/image/136134362
and here:  http://www.pbase.com/delaneyalysa/image/136134363
My thanks to Lady DeLaney for taking these in CORF!
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: Rowan MacD on October 23, 2011, 02:49:04 PM
  That is beautiful! I love that shirt  ;D
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: Butch on October 24, 2011, 10:39:26 PM
Rowen, thank-you!

Gem, I usually trace the pattern onto brown paper bags that I iron out and tape to size.  They are sturdy and keep a good while, and are easy to pin to the fabric.
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: Rowan MacD on October 25, 2011, 08:09:08 AM
  I just got an email that my patterns are on the way. 
  I will definitely want to trace or fuse the patterns to a sturdy material.  They aren't cheap!
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: Master James on October 25, 2011, 01:18:00 PM
As a note on the patterns, we have found that the crotch in the breeches are a bit long and needs to be shortened and there is also some fitting issues so doing the mock is a must to ensure it fits right the first time.  Other than that, we love them!
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: stonebiscuit on October 26, 2011, 10:05:25 PM
Master James, it's funny you say that. I had exactly the opposite problem. So yes, mockup. Always.
Title: Re: Margo Anderson menswear?
Post by: Rowan MacD on October 27, 2011, 07:10:07 PM
  For the breeches too.  :D  I was just going to do a mock up for the doublet!
  Got the patterns last night.  Those are some impressive instruction manuals.  I will need some 3 ring binders.
  Edit:  I read through the accessories manual last night.  This is great stuff!  She says the patterns are meant for medium to advanced sewing skills, but I think I can muddle through with these detailed instructions. 
   I love the tall hat pattern, and I can use the plastic embroidery sheets I bought for my french hood (and never used) for that.