What is your go-to basic blouse pattern that you use? I'm trying to find something mildly H/A for under my bodice, but most of the big three tend to have elastic in them. So who else to ask but all you lovely seamstresses! I know you guys will have some excellent suggestions.
Well, ladies didn't wear blouses. ;D The undergarment was called a smock or a chemise. It came down at least the knees and was typically mid calf length. Depending on the time period you are looking for there are several different types of smocks to choose from. I've done the Italian Chemise:
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/chemise.html (http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/chemise.html)
A square neck smock:
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat/index.html (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat/index.html)
And a high neck smock based on Patterns of Fashion.
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/chemise.html (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/chemise.html) - for further inspiration
I am aware that a blouse is not h/a and that to be accurate, i should wear a chemise. However, I do not wear one, which is why I was asking a blouse pattern. My garb is fairewear/fantasy and my skirts are different colors from that of my shirt. When I said I want something mildly h/a, I meant something without elastic and would give the same basic shape as a chemise without being so long. I apologize; I should have been more clear. Thank you for the information though.
Is there some reason you want it to be short? To be honest, when I first started out and wore a peasant top, it bugged me to no end. The top was always coming out from the skirt waistband if I stretched or moved at all. It was annoying to have to tuck it back in every few minutes!
Well, I have almost always had mid-length tops with my garb. The past few years, this has been the pattern I've used:
(http://butterick.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/B6196.jpg)
the white one on the left
It's actually pretty long for a blouse, I guess. Covers my booty and I've never had a problem with it coming untucked. Since my home faire is TRF, I try to have as few layers as possible (which we all know is difficult haha). Since I already where two skirts, a third added by the chemise that would not even be seen seems a bit excessive when I could just use something shorter.
I guess I'm not really sure what you're looking for, either. A peasant blouse pattern with no elastic? Or a historical chemise/smock pattern that's shorter?
There's a Simplicity pattern (http://www.simplicity.com/p-1943-costumes.aspx) that makes a nice high-necked peasant blouse (um, for lack of a better term). My MIL has used it with nice results, and so has forum member Genievea Brookstone. I'm not in love with the facing, though.
Alternately, if the elastic is bothering you, you could replace it with a drawstring? Although that's not historically accurate, either.
I think I probably should have left the whole h/a thing out of it. Seeing as I'm going as a Faery Catcher, I'm pretty well into the fantasy realm. I guess a shorter chemise would work fine. My main issue is just that it has to be a pattern. Neither my mum nor I are able to sew without patterns yet, so just having instructions online won't work for us. Sorry to be so confusing. : \
Really, the easy italian chemise is...easy.
It's all about simple measurements -no angles. The square neck smock is even easier, honestly. It's a great way to break away from buying patterns.
For a fairewear-style chemise, the white chemise in that Butterick pattern posted above is my favorite. I've used it at least 4-5 times, with varying sleeve lengths. I typically do it with elastic in the neckline (which is what the pattern calls for), but if you don't want to use elastic, I don't see why you couldn't run a drawstring through the same casing at the neckline. But the pattern really is great - it goes together really easily, and makes a nice, comfy, hip-length blouse for faire.
Thanks, Lady Rebecca. I'm starting to think that I might just stick to that pattern and put drawstring in the casing. As much as it would be fun and interesting to start having h/a pieces, I don't think I have enough time to start doing mock ups and the actual shirt before opening weekend of TRF. Maybe I'll leave that experiment for next season. Not to mention, I still have the roommate and the boyfriend's garb to finish. Whew!
Just a thought, but I went the other way... Made a historically accurate lady's shirt and made it long so I could wear it belted as a dress. Worked perfectly for LARP.
(http://assets.burdastyle.com/project_images/assets/000/215/765/DSCF0074_large.jpg?1312450058)
Gawd I love that one!
I have taken the Simplicity mens ren shirt and not added the top part aka the yoke and it turns out to be a very nice full sleeved chemise and its easy peasy you just have to add a elastic casing on the top.
Quote from: gem on September 02, 2011, 11:08:22 PM
Alternately, if the elastic is bothering you, you could replace it with a drawstring? Although that's not historically accurate, either.
I use elastic, and I'm ok with that. I am suprised to hear that a drawstring is not h/a. (I LOVE the education I get on these threads!!!) Is it a threadjack to ask, what is h/a? Just for educational purposes.
Looking at both extant smocks and camicia and ones from portrait evidence, they tended to close with buttons or ties--but the ties weren't drawstrings in casings the way we have them now. Just a tie sewn to one cuff or side of the neckline, and an eyelet on the opposite side.