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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: gypsylakat on June 22, 2008, 09:51:23 PM

Title: cotton broadcloth
Post by: gypsylakat on June 22, 2008, 09:51:23 PM
Is cotton broadcloth better for a skirt or a chemise? it's pretty soft... i'm just not sure which, It was .99 at hancock today so i got 5 yards of this like heavilly creamed coffee type color...
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: Lady Anne Clare on June 22, 2008, 10:20:21 PM
The chemise I'm wearing in my avatar is made from cotton broadcloth.  In fact so is my bodice and the lining for the bodice.  I bought a whole bunch of it when it went on sale as well.  I loved it for both those items.  I didn't find any issues with it.  I personally love the stuff and use it a lot even as lining for some things but that's just my preference.
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: gem on June 23, 2008, 01:43:19 AM
I'm kind of sold on linen for chemises, but one of my favorites not-made-by-me is my Greycat chemise (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17691164/315717528.jpg) (made by our very own Silverstah!), which is bright white cotton broadcloth.  I *lurve* this chemise, but I do have to say that it is a lot warmer than my linen ones, or even my cotton gauze ones.  Broadcloth is very tightly woven, which means that it doesn't breathe quite as well as more loosely-woven fabrics.

However, I think broadcloth is IDEAL for peasant/fairwear skirts.  It's cheap, it comes in any color you could possibly want, and it's easy as pie to work with.  You do need to pre-shrink it, and you'll need to iron it every time you wash it, but that's a small price to pay.  ;)  The blue skirt I'm wearing in the picture linked above is cotton broadcloth (I've also used poly/cotton broadcloth for skirts, and it has the bonus of being a little cheaper and not needing quite so much ironing.  I don't find that it's noticebly warmer, either.)

And I'm with SUB--it also makes a wonderful lining fabric.
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: isabelladangelo on June 23, 2008, 05:49:04 AM
Cotton broadcloth is too heavy for chemise fabric.  The chemise should be loose and "flowy" which is something cotton broadcloth just isn't.  However, it works pretty nicely for dresses, skirts, and bodices.  I used to use it a lot for lining my gowns/bodices.

For a chemise, the lightweight cheap muslin at Joann's, cotton gauze, or hanky weight linen are the best.  Linen is the H/A fabric.  I like using the cotton/linen blend found at Joann's because it is H/A (for Italy and Spain) and has some of the better properties of both fabrics.
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: sealion on June 23, 2008, 07:00:03 AM
I prefer the linen/cotton 60/40 blend for chemises over the stiffer broadcloth, too. Broadcloth does make nice peasant skirts.
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: gypsylakat on June 23, 2008, 11:39:22 AM
well because I had thought broadcloth was really heavy too, but this feels just as light as the linen I was looking at... that's why I was confused...
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: Cilean on June 23, 2008, 06:32:08 PM


Broadcloth is typically too thick for an English Smock, I would suggest a very thin cotton or Handkerchief weight Linen which is 3.05 ounce typically. I could also suggest Batiste in either cotton or silk or a blend. 

So in my opinion, I would make my skirts, and my Bodice, but not my Smock.


Good Luck,
Clean



Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: gypsylakat on June 24, 2008, 12:18:52 PM
ok. so if i'm looking for a think cotton, a. what section will it be in (what other fabrics will be around it) and b. what will it be called (i've heard talk of "cotton guaze" but have yet to find such a thing labelled..) I'm kinda new to the whole buying fabric thing and haven't found anyone IRL to help with stuff like this... (so why is it I'm the one that all my friends come to when they have random sewing questions?)
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: isabelladangelo on June 24, 2008, 12:32:19 PM
Cotton Gauze (http://"http://cgi.ebay.com/100-SOFT-COTTON-Gauze-Fabric-Natural-color-4YDS_W0QQitemZ180256910616QQihZ008QQcategoryZ71207QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem")
Hanky Weight linen (http://"http://cgi.ebay.com/100-LINEN-FABRIC-ivory-HANDKERCHIEF-2-Y-hanky-wt_W0QQitemZ350072040516QQihZ022QQcategoryZ43431QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem")

Linen is a lot nicer but Cotton Gauze isn't bad either.   Basically, if it's translucent but not completely transparent (ie, you can see the shape and maybe the color of your hand through it but not the lines on the palm of your hand) it's probably a good weight for a chemise
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: Pascal on June 24, 2008, 01:16:20 PM
Broadcloth does come in differing weights and "flowiness".  I've seen some suitable for chemise's -- and plenty suitable for skirts.  You've also got to balance the cost -- if you can get lightweight cotton broadcloth for .99 a yard, then it's a lot easier to live with!  Linen might be "better" -- but is the cost difference worth it?

You've also got to balance the "fun" factor -- maybe a cotton broadcloth might not be best for a "lifetime" chemise, but it's great for an inexpensive fun piece -- you might even make multiple versions in different colors.

Bottom line, if you pick up cotton broadcloth for $1.00 a yard in colors you like, and if it's lightweight enough, then how can you not have fun using it?  Note that it will shrink a good bit -- and if it's real low-end quality it might fade a bit after washing, too.

I bought some Hunter Green "Eqyptian" cotton from JoAnns for a shirt -- and it faded significantly (and unevenly) after the first washing.  I'm wondering if I should finish up the shirt, then die it back to a uniform green color again?
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on June 24, 2008, 01:19:39 PM


I use Cotton Broadcloth for Chimises and skirts. I also use it for linings when needed. A very versatile fabric if there ever was one.

When it is warm at faire, it pays to keep cool.  ;)
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: Cilean on June 25, 2008, 11:39:19 PM
 

If there is an extremely lightweight broadcloth then go for it!  In my opinion, your better choice is a linen, especially for the heat, it really would be the first thing I would suggest. I have been working with Smocks and Camisas for about 8 years now in linen and the fabric is stronger when wet and it wicks the sweat away from your body and if you get it wet it helps to keep you cool. 

Perhaps as a less expensive alternative? You could go with bleached muslin? Joann's has a 50% off coupon so if you pick up the 25 yards it would be like $12.50 for the whole thing!

Just a suggestion!

Cilean

Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: operafantomet on June 28, 2008, 03:09:32 PM
I think linen would be more comfortable for a chemise than cotton. Main reason is that linen is highly absorbent, much more than cotton, and can gain up to 15-20% moist without feeling wet/damp. It's also 2-3 times stronger than cotton, and actually stronger wet than dry. This is why it's very suitable for underclothes and bedlinens.

Thin cotton can look very good, but will be less asorbent (and, in my eyes, less comfortable). I have one cotton chemise and one linen chemise, and I like them both - but linen wins on comfort.

However, I prefer linen to be washed a couple of times before wearing it, because new linen (at least medium-price cloth) can be a bit rough towards the skin. It also wringkes more, but as far as chemsies go, I think it looks nice.


Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: gypsylakat on June 29, 2008, 10:48:46 AM
i went in and looked at linen, my local hancocks has 6 colors. the rest is all poly blend "linen look" that's it. wtf is up with that? unless they're hiding some from me...
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: Baroness Doune on June 29, 2008, 05:31:20 PM
Joanns is the same way.  And in the winter, the "wools" may not have ANY wool in them at all.  Bah.

That's why I buy online or make the trek to S.R. Harris.

Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: Pascal on June 29, 2008, 09:11:39 PM
Hooray for  S.R. Harris!  Three of us flew there from Houston a few months ago and loaded up our suitcases.  They were having a 50% off linen sale (that's 50% off their already 50% off prices!).
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: operafantomet on June 30, 2008, 01:03:31 AM
S. R. Harris is the only US fabric shop I've ever been to, but I agree with the praise they're getting here: they were awesome.  :)

I didn't buy too much fabrics (cause I live in Norway and there were limits to how much I could drag back on the plane...), but I bought many gorgeous trims. Aaah, the memories.

/off-topic
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: gypsylakat on June 30, 2008, 09:38:31 AM
fantom, that's when you take a bunch, put it in a box, and ship it to your mom's house, or your house and get back the next day! lol the post office has boxes that you can ship anything anywhere for 8 bucks! no matter what the weight! lol, what part of TX is SR harris located? The bf and I plan to visit his dad in Ft bliss in a few weeks... (from VA)
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: Sitara on June 30, 2008, 10:44:25 AM
S.R. Harris is not in TX at all, it's in Minnesota.
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: gypsylakat on June 30, 2008, 11:36:53 AM
oh. :(
Wonder where i got that idea.... nvm then... :-*
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: Pascal on June 30, 2008, 11:42:12 AM
Correct ... S.R. Harris is in Minneapolis (actually, kind of out in Maple Grove in the far northeast corner).  Real easy to find.  Well worth the trip if you're ever in the area -- even worth the trip if you can get a cheap weekend flight.

If you are in Texas, though -- Houston specifically -- we do have a very high end fabric store that's worth a trip.  High Fashion Fabrics -- they're just south of downtown at 3103 Louisiana.  Huge store, great selection of high end fabrics ('specially silks and wools), pretty darn good selection of everything else.  Prices, alas, tend to be high end as well. 

----

Oops, just checked out location of Fort Bliss -- you'll be nowhere near Houston.  I'm not aware of what may be in El Paso fabric-wise.
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: Taffy Saltwater on July 12, 2008, 09:36:37 AM
For chemises, I find that the "quilting" cotton blend fabrics at JoAnn's work pretty well.  It's heavier than handkerchief weight linen, but can be gotten for $2 or $3 a yard on sale.
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on July 12, 2008, 10:58:57 AM


I am planning an August trip to SR Harris to look for fabrics for upcoming commissions, as well as fabric for my next Competition pieces for Costume Con 27 that will take place in Baltimore in May 0f 2009.

One of the fabrics on my list wil be Broadcloths in different colors and anything else unique that catches my eye.
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: Pascal on July 12, 2008, 01:33:03 PM
LadyKat ...

You'll find loads of broadcloths (and much, much else) at S.R. Harris.  Be sure and visit their website before you go -- you may find some coupons you can use (coupons are good off their already discounted price).

You may also want to visit Mill End Textiles (about 10 miles south straight down Hwy 169 -- it'll be the one in Eden Prairie.  Easy to see from the highway, but pretty tricky to figure out how to get there, so map it out carefully first via Mapquest.  Mill End Textiles also has a website and coupons).  Mill End doesn't have the quantity that S.R. Harris does, but does have a really good group of cottons (better than most other fabric stores).

I'll be in Minneapolis the next two weeks  and will pay S.R. Harris a visit or two -- anything special I can spy out for you?
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: verymerryseamstress on July 17, 2008, 07:24:19 AM
I'm late to this thread!  We have a lot of customers who request broadcloth for several items:

chemises and leines
bloomers/drawers
peasant skirts
hats of all kinds
bracers
sleeves (detachable)
partlets
and so much more . . .

That said, I'm in complete agreement with operafantomet and others who say that linen is so much more comfy for chemises.  And operafantomet is also giving good advice when she recommends washing linen chemises several times - they do soften over time, and once they get soft, they're almost cloud-like comfy.  :-)

Methinks I need to get my butt to this Minnesota fabric store!

And while on the topic of broadcloth, has anyone had the delightful opportunity to work with wool broadcloth?  I'm going to be making a Victorian frock coat for a friend of mine out of it, and I've been fondling the swatches for months - it's divine stuff!
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: Aiacha on July 17, 2008, 07:51:45 AM
Quote from: Taffy Saltwater on July 12, 2008, 09:36:37 AM
For chemises, I find that the "quilting" cotton blend fabrics at JoAnn's work pretty well.  It's heavier than handkerchief weight linen, but can be gotten for $2 or $3 a yard on sale.

I usually get the "County Classics" cotton at JoAnns.  Feels a little stiff on the bolt, but it washes wonderfully and it very comfortable.
Title: Re: cotton broadcloth
Post by: gem on July 17, 2008, 10:25:55 PM
Quotethey do soften over time, and once they get soft, they're almost cloud-like comfy.

You are *so* not kidding.  I hardly want to take mine off.