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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: gem on April 23, 2012, 03:58:02 PM

Title: Harem Pants
Post by: gem on April 23, 2012, 03:58:02 PM
I'm making a pair for an event this summer, and need pattern and fabric suggestions!  I know there's a Simplicity belly dance pattern that's been around for a while; is it any good? Any others? (I'm looking for something really basic--elastic waist, blousy legs, elastic or cuffs at the ankles. Crotch at the natural crotch, not too much fabric.) Maybe I really want a bloomer pattern?

And I need a nice, medium-weight drapey red fabric. I think rayon or a heavy silk would be nice, but I'm not sure where to look.

Ideas?

Gramercy!!
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: raevyncait on April 23, 2012, 04:10:54 PM
A basic bloomer pattern would be fine, and if you want open sides, you can just cut the opening and finish the edges of the opening, or just don't sew the seam in that area and finish the open edges.
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: DonaCatalina on April 23, 2012, 04:14:35 PM
Or even a basic pajama bottom pattern, finish the outside seams open and put elastic around the ankles. Instead of having the high waist done in elastic, you could make the waistband sized to fit tight just below the belly button. Laces or buttons would work to close it up.
Fabrics, indoor or outdoor wear?
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: gem on April 23, 2012, 04:31:23 PM
Thanks!

Indoor wear. Opaque. No slit.

I want them to fit at the waist. I don't think pj pants will be quite full enough, but I don't definitely don't want anything near this (http://www.etsy.com/listing/90746551/4-yard-gauze-harem-pants). Actually, these mundane pants are perfect, except I need red:

(http://s7d5.scene7.com/is/image/SoftSurroundings/23030?$medium$)

The fabric should drape beautifully, with some weight to it, and not be too prone to wrinkling or creasing (so not gauze or linen). Tencel would be perfect (I think it's a heavy rayon), but I'm not sure where you can buy it.

Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: Anna Iram on April 23, 2012, 05:08:25 PM
http://www.artemisimports.com/patterns/

Scroll down for the book "Pants for the Dance". Might be a nice addition to your library.
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: isabelladangelo on April 23, 2012, 07:21:58 PM
Any basic pants pattern should do then.  Just don't taper the ankle.  Instead, have the width of the cuff remain large and then gather it. 

The Simplicity "belly dance" pattern pants are way too short in the hips.   I ended up adding five inches to the top of the pants just to get them to sit an inch below the waist line!

If you want to go the historical route (18th C / evidence for the baggy pants before the 17th c is sketchy at best), make the pants a good 1.5x's as long as you normally would.  gather the cuff above your knee with string so the rest of the pant leg falls down to the ankle but balloons there.  I hope that makes sense.   
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: Sitara on April 24, 2012, 01:12:45 AM
Here's a very easy free pattern.  http://www.shira.net/costuming/cg/pants-harem.htm (http://www.shira.net/costuming/cg/pants-harem.htm)
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: DonaCatalina on April 24, 2012, 04:52:08 AM
Quote from: gem on April 23, 2012, 04:31:23 PM
Thanks!

Indoor wear. Opaque. No slit.

I want them to fit at the waist. I don't think pj pants will be quite full enough, but I don't definitely don't want anything near this (http://www.etsy.com/listing/90746551/4-yard-gauze-harem-pants). Actually, these mundane pants are perfect, except I need red:

(http://s7d5.scene7.com/is/image/SoftSurroundings/23030?$medium$)

The fabric should drape beautifully, with some weight to it, and not be too prone to wrinkling or creasing (so not gauze or linen). Tencel would be perfect (I think it's a heavy rayon), but I'm not sure where you can buy it.
The I would recommend silk essence. It is 100% polyester, but it flows like silk without wrinkling.
http://www.joann.com/sew-classic-silky-solid-silkessence-many-colors/prd7633/
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: gem on April 24, 2012, 11:19:05 AM
Dona C, thanks! I'll check that out.

QuoteThe Simplicity "belly dance" pattern pants are way too short in the hips.   I ended up adding five inches to the top of the pants just to get them to sit an inch below the waist line!

Oh! Great to know. Thank you!

***
Does anyone think this red wool-blend crepe (http://www.fabric.com/april-showers-sale-60-off-wool-suiting-fabric-wool-blend-crepe-suiting-red.aspx) from the fabulous sale Isabella told us about would work?

(http://www.fabric.com/Webdata/Product/15c49ab3-8aa8-4bfb-a66f-1f794e7b3fb6/Images/Medium_EV-899.jpg)

I typically think of crepe as being for more structured pieces, like sheath dresses, not for something drapey. But Fabric.com describes it as having "full fold drape," (which we've asked them about before; no one knows what that means LOL)... and the color and price are perfect.

Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: Wickedvox on April 24, 2012, 12:10:23 PM
I find Simplicity pattern 5359 to be quick, easy, not too baggy--but baggier than the pattern you posted Gem--with a perfect crotch; not to short, not too high. And it sits perfectly right on the waist. I've made 2 pair, and am making a pair for my husband (just standard peasant pants for him). They go together so fast, seriously like 2 hours if you have to cut the pattern out--1 if you don't. I love them, so comfy! Here's the link: http://www.simplicity.com/p-2230-costumes.aspx  (http://www.simplicity.com/p-2230-costumes.aspx)
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: DonaCatalina on April 24, 2012, 02:55:30 PM
I think that wool crepe is going to have 'full fold drape' and is drapery or curtains. It sounds a little heavy to me.
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: Kate XXXXXX on April 25, 2012, 06:50:41 AM
Dress weight wool crepe is very soft.  It makes excellent garments, and is particularly suitable for garments that need to fall in soft close folds.  If the wool is coat weight, it'll make great coats and jackets and cloaks.   ;D

'Drape' in a fabric has nothing to do with curtains.
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: amy on April 25, 2012, 07:33:30 AM
Sitara... that free pattern looks about identical to that which I have drafted for all Sarah's harem pants... we just tweaked it to change up for the particular costume and it has worked beautifully.   I would save a penny on the pattern and spend it on some lovely drapey flowy fabric.
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: isabelladangelo on April 25, 2012, 09:08:31 AM
Quote from: gem on April 24, 2012, 11:19:05 AM


***
Does anyone think this red wool-blend crepe (http://www.fabric.com/april-showers-sale-60-off-wool-suiting-fabric-wool-blend-crepe-suiting-red.aspx) from the fabulous sale Isabella told us about would work?

(http://www.fabric.com/Webdata/Product/15c49ab3-8aa8-4bfb-a66f-1f794e7b3fb6/Images/Medium_EV-899.jpg)

I typically think of crepe as being for more structured pieces, like sheath dresses, not for something drapey. But Fabric.com describes it as having "full fold drape," (which we've asked them about before; no one knows what that means LOL)... and the color and price are perfect.



Wool crepe is fairly lightweight.  It should work very well for the pants.   I'd typically use it in summer work skirts or some sort of top -but not a jacket or coat.  It's too lightweight.   Think sort of like medium weight linen in terms of the weight of the fabric. 
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: gem on April 26, 2012, 04:46:00 PM
Thanks, all!

Wicked, thanks for that. I'm waiting on a Simplicity sale so I can grab that pattern (and another I need for a different ensemble).

Thanks, Kate!! I spent an afternoon looking at photos of wool crepe trousers and decided it was worth a try. The red wool crepe is on its way, along with some heavy velvet and some blue twill to complete Milord's dad's doublet.

Isabella, thanks for the head's up on the wool sale! The timing was perfect for me.
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: Adriana Rose on April 27, 2012, 10:59:19 AM
Keep in mind if you want to use the simplicity pattern that the pants sit SUPER low on your hips. I add 3 inches on the top when I cut them out so that there is room for the elastic casing and that there is room so that you dont have to get a wax to wear them.
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: isabelladangelo on April 27, 2012, 12:57:44 PM
Quote from: Adriana Rose on April 27, 2012, 10:59:19 AM
Keep in mind if you want to use the simplicity pattern that the pants sit SUPER low on your hips. I add 3 inches on the top when I cut them out so that there is room for the elastic casing and that there is room so that you dont have to get a wax to wear them.

:-)  Like I said before, I added 5" to the top just to get them to sit right.  It's a lot easier just to use a generic pant patterna nd leave the ankle wide then gather it yourself.
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: Goody on May 09, 2012, 01:14:52 PM
And here i thought they dint fit just because of my body size/shape! i actually wore them backwards a couple of times as that fit better. Have you thought about just doing wrap pants?
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: gem on May 24, 2012, 06:51:31 PM
Quick midpoint update... I discovered that I had an old (old!) OOP Simplicity pattern (8311 (http://img2.etsystatic.com/il_570xN.125175642.jpg)) in my stash, which includes an "I Dream of Jeannie" costume. It's a unisex pattern, with the same pattern for all pants views. I finished the muslin today, and the fit is exactly what I wanted. Nice full legs, natural waist/crotch, surprisingly slim hips. I'm very pleased!

Hope to get the actual pants done this weekend!
Title: Re: Harem Pants
Post by: DonaCatalina on May 25, 2012, 10:24:40 AM
and then photos shall be forthcoming......?