Still shopping for some upgraded garb, and my girlfriend pointed me towards Pendragon's website (she owns a dress from them, and loves it).
What is everyone's opinion on doublets made by Pendragon? I think the doublets with the tooled celtic knots in the leather look really cool, but my question is if they are historically accurate. HA is not extremely important to me, but it is a consideration. I'd rather go more towards the HA portion of the scale rather than dungeons and dragons. Did doublets with these intricate tooled designs in the leather exist in history? I've done some google searches and haven't come across anything that can tell me one way or another.
I do like their other designs like the Italian and Marlowe, but my eye keeps drifting over to the celtic designs (probably because I love celtic knotwork).
Pendragon doublets are gorgeous, though a bit pricey, and look like they would be HOT. I have only seen the menswear on performers, the few times I have seen them, probably because of the price.
If you aren't concerned with HA, and want something cheaper and lighter, have you looked at Moresca?
http://www.moresca.com/index.php?cPath=9
I second the gorgeous, expensive and hot. HA? No clue, but if you have one you will see plenty of others wearing them too so they definitely fit in. My trusty Sidekick has one - makes him look awesome IMO!
Which style does your sidekick wear? I'm in the upper midwest, I'm not overly concerned about the heat ;D of course, we do have those odd years when it's hot through October.
He has a Rob Roy. This photo is my favorite shot of it (and him!) [Thanks again Paul for that photo!]
(http://i.pbase.com/g3/48/163848/2/122391604.CjGNEl3v.jpg)
Quote from: Lady Kett on June 13, 2012, 12:33:35 PM
He has a Rob Roy. This photo is my favorite shot of it (and him!) [Thanks again Paul for that photo!]
(http://i.pbase.com/g3/48/163848/2/122391604.CjGNEl3v.jpg)
That's a nice looking one. I do like the overall look of the "plainer" doublets better, but I'm also drawn to the awesome celtic knot designs on their tooled leather options.
The price
is a bit steep. I might just keep my eyes open for other options, or take a look at Moresca's site mentioned above.
I have a number of items by Moresca, all good quality. Now days they will call, or email you to get measurements before they will sell you a piece, particularly if you are paying over $100.00 for it.
I love the all fabric Marlowe doublet on the Pendragon site, but I would try to sew that before I'd pay $315.00 for it.
Quote from: Rowen MacD on June 13, 2012, 12:55:39 PM
I love the all fabric Marlowe doublet on the Pendragon site, but I would try to sew that before I'd pay $315.00 for it.
I hear ya. I'm seriously thinking stealing my mom's sewing machine and taking some classes...
I can't see Lady Kett's photo. (pouts >:()
I've long admired Pendragon's work, but have never gotten to see it in person, alas (except for the odd bodice wandering about our home fair)! But I certainly wouldn't pick it for a historical persona. It's the lovely blending of fantasy, historical, and new age influences that makes the classic Renaissance Fair style we love so much. I'm sure Dona Catalina will be along with portraits, but until then... There *were* leather doublets (for men; I've heard there aren't examples of women's leather clothing from the period but can't back that up), but I haven't seen tooled ones--although pinking and slashing and other embellishments were definitely popular. More to the point, the Celtic designs you like are ancient, a good 500 years or so too early for the Renaissance, and would more likely have appeared on woodwork or metalwork than on leather clothing. Also, Irish and Scottish design would not have been in vogue during the Renaissance--if you look up images from the Scottish court, you definitely won't see anything that looks particularly Celtic anywhere. ;)
I couldn't see the photos either until I copied and pasted the actual link to another page. IMHO you can't beat making your own garb if you have the patience to learn. Then its undeniably yours and unique.
Quote from: DonaCatalina on June 14, 2012, 04:42:46 AM
I couldn't see the photos either until I copied and pasted the actual link to another page. IMHO you can't beat making your own garb if you have the patience to learn. Then its undeniably yours and unique.
How difficult is it to learn? I've actually been wanting to start making my own stuff for a while, but haven't due to a number of reasons - taking the time to learn, finding someone to teach me, the stigma of a guy learning how to sew (yeah yeah, I'm over it ;D)
Since I have a bit more disposable income now, I was shopping around for new garb since I've always just worn some variation of my peasant shirt and leggings to ren faires. However, making something on my own really appeals to me since I enjoy having something unique, and I'm kind of a crafty person to begin with.
My mother has a nice Singer sewing machine, I'm going to try to convince her to let me borrow it since she doesn't really sew anymore. She probably won't have time to sit down and teach me, is it possible to just learn out of a book and practice on some easier projects?
Quote from: Rowen MacD on June 13, 2012, 12:55:39 PM
I love the all fabric Marlowe doublet on the Pendragon site, but I would try to sew that before I'd pay $315.00 for it.
I hear ya. That one is my favorite out of all their selections.
Way back in the Dark Ages.... no one made garb for commercial sale. You had to make it yourself.
I learned by trial and error starting out with very simple stuff. Get some cheap cotton muslin and a pattern and experiment.
^^ DITTO^^. I started sewing a little for faire 2-3 years ago, before that, I had only made a couple of costumes for Halloween 20+ years back.
Last year was my first full scale garb attempt(profile picture).
It's far from perfect, but the way I see it, you gotta start somewhere. Future projects will go smoother and look better.
The most important lesson I learned-Make a mock up out of cheap cloth ($1-2 per yard) and get someone to help you fit it.
The second most important lesson: Don't cut corners or take what appears to you to be 'shortcuts'. Unless you know what you are doing, they rarely end well.
The rest is just cutting, pinning, sewing and decorating.
Experience is the great teacher. You will have fails; but that's the way you learn, so don't get discouraged.
I learned to sew right here, on these boards. Seriously. Folks who've been around since the beginning, like Kate and Dona C, can probably remember all the things they walked me through! I'd done some sewing--learned in junior high home ec, did a few basic costuming projects over the years--so while I knew the *basics* (how to use the machine, how to work with patterns) and wasn't starting completely from scratch, everything I know about *garb* came from hanging out here and learning from the pros.
How "hard" it is to learn really depends on you. If you're adventuresome and good at diving in and teaching yourself as you go, I think it's a lot easier. It also helps if you have a natural sense of spatial relations, because it takes some imagination to go from flat pattern pieces and strange, unexplained sewing steps to a finished garment. I tell people that the only reason I can sew, draft patterns, etc, is because I've been doing it long enough now that experience takes over where I lack a natural knack for it!
One important thing to remember is that you absolutely don't need a sewing machine. It will make the job a lot *faster,* but people have been making clothing by hand for millennia, and never let lack of a machine stop them! ;) There's a great sense of satisfaction to be had in learning to do fine handwork, and it will come in handy when you want to hem something, tack down a facing, or make a hat.
People often recommend you start with something really simple, like a skirt or a chemise (in your case, a basic pair of breeches would probably be more useful! LOL)... but I like to recommend you start with something you actually WANT. You'll be more motivated to keep working on it that way. I have a friend whose very first sewing project EVER was her noble garb to be on cast at Scarborough! You can start somewhere in between.
If you head on over to the sewing forum, you can find gads of threads beginners have posted about their first projects.
I have two Pendragons, one of which (the Spanish) has seen quite a bit of wear. It was really sharp once upon a time, but weather and time have conspired against it. Still, it is my go-to piece of garb, and I don't regret buying it (got a real good deal once upon a time on eBay) although I doubt that I would be able to buy another anytime soon. Oh yeah, it is HOT but not as bad as it could be as I don't wear it with the sleeves.
I have a Pendragon tooled suede bodice, and while I don't know if it's historically accurate, I do know that I get tons of compliments when I wear it! I love it, and I don't find it hotter than any of my other bodices.
Quote from: gem on June 14, 2012, 04:04:11 PM
I learned to sew right here, on these boards. Seriously. Folks who've been around since the beginning, like Kate and Dona C, can probably remember all the things they walked me through! I'd done some sewing--learned in junior high home ec, did a few basic costuming projects over the years--so while I knew the *basics* (how to use the machine, how to work with patterns) and wasn't starting completely from scratch, everything I know about *garb* came from hanging out here and learning from the pros.
How "hard" it is to learn really depends on you. If you're adventuresome and good at diving in and teaching yourself as you go, I think it's a lot easier. It also helps if you have a natural sense of spatial relations, because it takes some imagination to go from flat pattern pieces and strange, unexplained sewing steps to a finished garment. I tell people that the only reason I can sew, draft patterns, etc, is because I've been doing it long enough now that experience takes over where I lack a natural knack for it!
One important thing to remember is that you absolutely don't need a sewing machine. It will make the job a lot *faster,* but people have been making clothing by hand for millennia, and never let lack of a machine stop them! ;) There's a great sense of satisfaction to be had in learning to do fine handwork, and it will come in handy when you want to hem something, tack down a facing, or make a hat.
People often recommend you start with something really simple, like a skirt or a chemise (in your case, a basic pair of breeches would probably be more useful! LOL)... but I like to recommend you start with something you actually WANT. You'll be more motivated to keep working on it that way. I have a friend whose very first sewing project EVER was her noble garb to be on cast at Scarborough! You can start somewhere in between.
If you head on over to the sewing forum, you can find gads of threads beginners have posted about their first projects.
Well, I decided to jump in head first. I'm picking up a basic used sewing machine on craigslist on Saturday, and will start learning shortly after I get everything setup. I know I don't really need a sewing machine, but my time is limited due to work and family activities, so anything that can speed things up is a huge bonus.
I think I'll be more satisfied wearing something I created, even if it doesn't look as professional as some of the other options. I most likely won't get anything done in time to wear at the faires later this summer, but definitely next year. I have some Fantasy Fashion patterns that I will start from; I'm going to begin with some basic breeches since I already have a shirt, hat, etc. Be ready on the sewing section of the forum, I'll probably have lots of questions!
I have the Dashing Doublet Pattern from Fantasy Fashions. It's a great pattern that can be adjusted from Small to XL. I have adapted this pattern to fit up to3X. It's the pattern I use a lot to redraft to get a variety of Doublet looks.
Here are a few samples...
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/294916_10150826804796280_1963309220_n.jpg)
Overjerkin and Under Doublet. I redrafted the Doublet pattern for the Overjerkin to get a whole different look.
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/28666_436752481279_8293871_n.jpg)
The Slashed look.
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/521581_10150786108756280_219661336_n.jpg)
Early 17th Century Doublet.
Have fun with the pattern.
Those are amazing Lady Kathleen. If mine turn out half as good as those I'll be thoroughly impressed with myself!
Quote from: Ser Niall on June 14, 2012, 09:15:30 AM
How difficult is it to learn? I've actually been wanting to start making my own stuff for a while, but haven't due to a number of reasons - taking the time to learn, finding someone to teach me, the stigma of a guy learning how to sew (yeah yeah, I'm over it ;D)
------------------8<carefully clipped>8-------------
My mother has a nice Singer sewing machine, I'm going to try to convince her to let me borrow it since she doesn't really sew anymore. She probably won't have time to sit down and teach me, is it possible to just learn out of a book and practice on some easier projects?
Quote from: Rowen MacD on June 13, 2012, 12:55:39 PM
I love the all fabric Marlowe doublet on the Pendragon site, but I would try to sew that before I'd pay $315.00 for it.
I hear ya. That one is my favorite out of all their selections.
Look, if my son, then aged 12, could tackle jeans as a first garment project (see here! http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Sewing_Projects/Boy%20stuuf/Jeans/jeans_for_james.htm], you can make a doublet! Just get a tried and tested pattern, get your mum to take some measurements, and test it on a bit of old boring stuff before cutting into nice fabrics.
Words of Wisdom:
Ignore the 'size' on a pattern: buy it according to your measurements. Pattern and RTW sizes can be very different... :o
Measure twice. Then check! And only cut when you are sure! And check that you have a made up a right and left sleeve, and that you are inserting them into the correct armhole...
If the sewing machine makes funny noises, STOP! ;)
Practice steering the machine. You wouldn't attempt to drive from Lands End to John O'Groats the first time you sat in the driving seat of the car, so don't try anything too complex the first time you drive a sewing machine. It's a good idea to work through the threading and stitch instructions on the machine, and make some practice seams so they are nice and straight. And as with the car, start slowly. Speed come with practice.
Get a good basic sewing manual. I like the Dorling Kindersly one as it has nice clear photos and I'm a visual learner.
ASK. Ask anything you like! The only stupid question is the one you didn't ask...
Quote from: Ser Niall on June 15, 2012, 06:50:37 AM
Those are amazing Lady Kathleen. If mine turn out half as good as those I'll be thoroughly impressed with myself!
Thank you, Ser Niall.
When looking at the Pendgragon Doublets on thier site, I see that the makers take a basic Doublet Pattern and redesign it to get the different looks as I have done.
Keep in mind some tips when using the Fantasy Fashion Doublet pattern. Be sure to get the measurement from the bottom of the neck to the Natural Waist. Adjust the Back pattern piece to reflect that measurement. There will be a space between the two pieces that make up the correct length. Whatever that space is be it 2", i.e., the Front pieces will have the same space between the pieces as well. I also measure the side seam length to make sure they are the sam too. That is how I figured out the parttern when I first used it 10 years ago. The Instructions are easy enough to follow and well laid out.
Good luck to you. The techniques you will learn are priceless.
Truly Ser, even to creat the most elaborate of garments, all you need to do is follow the pattern. Once you have the confidence in your sewing ability and have developed more of an "eye" of how things were decoracted or embellished, you can then dare to think things like: "Hm, I like the body of this doublet, but I don't really like the sleeves. I think I will use the sleeves from this pattern instead." Or, the more daring: "I kind of like this pattern, but I think I am just going to tweek it a bit." :D
I did not start sewing until th faire bug bit me. Prior to that, the last thing I had sewn was a wrap skirt in 8th grade. So (or is that sew?) if I can do it, anyone can.