Purchased this fabric on ebay to use for the doublet and slops that I'm currently constructing. I wanted to use it as the main fabric for the doublet, and for the panes on the slops. For whatever reason, I thought that the black in the fabric was going to be satiny and more in the background, while the gold would be shiny. However, once I received the fabric, both the black and gold parts are metallic and shiny. I was thinking that black isn't metallic, why would it be shiny? Silly me... Just wondering if this would still be fine to use on this costume? I didn't want it to be this shiny, but if it's still period appropriate I can live with it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380288047449?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_500wt_1416
The ebay pictures isn't really that great, I can post some of my own pictures later if I get a chance.
Gorgeous!
Being that it is fabric, you don't need to worry about the black being shiney - even though it is not mettalic. I think it will be stunning!
Quote from: Orphena on July 26, 2012, 01:54:42 PM
Gorgeous!
Being that it is fabric, you don't need to worry about the black being shiney - even though it is not mettalic. I think it will be stunning!
Thanks ;D It actually looks a lot different depending on the light. In natural light the blacks come out more, under the fluorescents in my sewing room, the golds take over.
I was looking at that a week or so ago. Yummy!
There is so much you can use it for. Excellent choice.
Thanks, makes me feel a bit better about using it. My usual clothing style is a bit subdued, so it's difficult for me to put together flashy noble garb because it goes against everything I usually wear :D
For those following my sewing saga, I managed to get the slops base and underlay cut and sewn up last night. Ran into a few snags (had to look up how to gather fabric on the 'net), but once I got started it went together relatively quickly. They look good already, the underlay is a nice black silk/cotton blend that I got a good deal on. Should look really nice once the panes are attached, which I hope to get done soon.
The Fabric you have chosen is GORGEOUS!!!
I would like to suggest using that fabric for the Doublet and Detachable Sleeves.
For the Panes for the Slops, I nwould like to suggest a Black Jacquard or Brocade. With an Upholstery Braided trim also in Black. That way, the Focus is on the Doublet. The Underlining for the slops, a tarnished Gold upioni Silk from www.silkbaron.com (http://www.silkbaron.com) called Aztec Gold. Scrumpuous Silks, very reasonable in price per yard.
Hopes this helps.
Thanks for the suggestions, and for that silk website. I'll have to think about the color scheme a little bit now. I have the underlay constructed with black silk right now, since I was going to use the same brocade above for the panes. A lot of the pictures I've seen have the panes matching the doublet fabric. The black underlay makes the gold in the brocade stand out. But now I like your idea about trimming out the panes instead of using the doublet fabric. Decisions, decisions...
I've thought and studies so much on the construction techniques that I didn't really think the color schemes through, other than the fact that I wanted black and gold.
Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on July 26, 2012, 03:12:28 PM
The Fabric you have chosen is GORGEOUS!!!
I would like to suggest using that fabric for the Doublet and Detachable Sleeves.
For the Panes for the Slops, I nwould like to suggest a Black Jacquard or Brocade. With an Upholstery Braided trim also in Black. That way, the Focus is on the Doublet. The Underlining for the slops, a tarnished Gold upioni Silk from www.silkbaron.com (http://www.silkbaron.com) called Aztec Gold. Scrumpuous Silks, very reasonable in price per yard.
Hopes this helps.
While I was over at the ebay site (again), I found this-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAGE-GREEN-RENAISSANCE-VINE-BROCADE-FABRIC/380176323393?ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1&ih=025&category=943&cmd=ViewItem
Just purchased 15 yds of this in moss green background/gold pattern from Joann's for $8.00 yd (on sale)-55" wide -regular 16.98 yd. I had to special order it since they only had 2 yds on hand, but having laid hands and eyes on the actual fabric, I figured I would describe it.
This is a nice light weight home dec fabric with a small vine like print, excellent drape, has a usable reverse side pattern (squee) in gold with moss green.
Ser Niall it looks like you're on track! I can't wait to see your finished product! And your ebay links are helping me find brocade for my friend's garb (my first commision yikes). Keep up the hard work--it'll be worth it when you can wear your creation with pride! :)
Quote from: Ser Niall on July 26, 2012, 01:48:44 PM
Purchased this fabric on ebay to use for the doublet and slops that I'm currently constructing. I wanted to use it as the main fabric for the doublet, and for the panes on the slops. For whatever reason, I thought that the black in the fabric was going to be satiny and more in the background, while the gold would be shiny. However, once I received the fabric, both the black and gold parts are metallic and shiny. I was thinking that black isn't metallic, why would it be shiny? Silly me... Just wondering if this would still be fine to use on this costume? I didn't want it to be this shiny, but if it's still period appropriate I can live with it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380288047449?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_500wt_1416
The ebay pictures isn't really that great, I can post some of my own pictures later if I get a chance.
Looking at the fabric, I'm going to say you will have issues from it. It looks like the type that will fray like crazy and is almost impossible to work with. It also looks very 1980's to my eyes. If you aren't going with h/a, that's fine but you still need to worry about the fraying issue. Stuff that frays is also the same stuff that rips and is impossible to patch - not the type of material you want to use for panes! I'm going to say keep looking and stick with natural fabrics - they are far easier to work with for the most part.
It looks scrumptious; but acetates/ rayons can be difficult to work with. You weill need to stabilize the edges very strenously. There is also the issue that since it is a petroleum based fabric; it won't breathe very well and will be very warm to wear.
But for contrast you could use solid black like this cotton jacquard
http://www.denverfabrics.com/p/9130/Black-Floral-Jacquard-Pique
or this red co9tton jacquard
http://www.denverfabrics.com/p/TT869/Red-Floral-Jacquard
I am tempted on the black jacqurs myself at that price.
And then there is gold dupioni here
http://www.fabric.com/home-decor-fabric-silk-fabric-dupioni-silk-fabric-dupioni-silk-fabric-gold.aspx
There are also some cotton blen damask fabrics that work well for garb.
http://www.interiormall.com/cat/nsample.asp?ID=237520&t=117
http://www.interiormall.com/cat/ndisplaycoll.asp?c1=Fabric&book=117
@Rowen, I saw that fabric at Joann's as well. I put it on the short list because it was the most renaissance-looking fabric I saw there, inexpensive, and came in multiple colors.
Everyone else, thanks for the suggestions. I didn't think about the fraying issue, and looking at the fabric it does look like it will be a problem. In fact, it's left a bunch of threads on the table I had it on already. Also didn't think about the issue of it being too warm to wear. I will probably end up returning it or using it for something else if I can't.
@DonaCatalina, thanks for those sites. I like that Onyx Eugene, I think I'll order a sample and see how I like it.
I thought the construction was the difficult part... picking out fabric that looks good and won't break the bank is hard :D
Spent some time looking through that interior mall site, found some interesting choices:
Thought this looked nice, and it's a good price. I thought about this as a possibility for a slops underlay. Not sure how it would look to have a pattern underneath the panes. I would make the panes a little plainer, like plain black with some trim, so that it's not too busy.
http://www.interiormall.com/cat/nsample.asp?id=172017
I thought about this one too for the main fabric for the doublet and sleeves. It looks like the pattern is black, while the background is grey. I would trim it out in gold, to get that aspect into it. I'm just not sure how it would look with the grey background. Thoughts?
http://www.interiormall.com/cat/nsample.asp?id=218368
I'm also liking the Eugene Onyx damask Dona linked to above.
Although the cotton damask looks cool on the monitor, I'd shy away from it. You want a woven pattern, not a printed one. If you want a pattern at all! I'd say go on ebay, get some 100% silk (ignore the color. Anything can be dyed black) and also look at the sari trims. The awesome thing about the sari trims is they often come in 5 yard lengths but are very inexpensive for how lovely they are. Rather than going with a print/woven fabric, just create the panes out of a plain silk(or wool, or velvet, ect) and put the trim down the front/middle of the pane. Also, look at trim placement on doublets in paintings. Add the same trim to the doublet as well. You can have a very elegant super shiny outfit without a print - which should make your search a lot easier.
isabella, that's always a possibility. I might go that route if I can't find what I'm looking for.
I found this on etsy, only a sample though. This would be perfect for what I'm trying to go for if I could find something similar: http://www.etsy.com/listing/95871857/soft-black-stirated-gold-damask-tapestry?ref=sr_gallery_7&ga_search_query=black+gold+damask+fabric&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_ship_to=ZZ&ga_min=0&ga_max=0&ga_includes%5B%5D=materials&ga_search_type=all (http://www.etsy.com/listing/95871857/soft-black-stirated-gold-damask-tapestry?ref=sr_gallery_7&ga_search_query=black+gold+damask+fabric&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_ship_to=ZZ&ga_min=0&ga_max=0&ga_includes%5B%5D=materials&ga_search_type=all)
The problem you'll have there is that's upholstery fabric. :) It may have a special backing and it will be quite heavy.
A black and gold damask (http://www.ebay.com/itm/GOLD-BLACK-SATIN-TAFFETA-DAMASK-CREST-FABRIC-/190282536985?pt=US_Fabric&hash=item2c4db91819) The price is per a yard but it's well work it.
Honestly, if I hadn't just dropped $200 on ribbons, this would be mine (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pure-Silk-Brocade-Fabric-Olive-Black-Metallic-Gold-/370589315963?pt=US_Fabric&hash=item5648d8337b) Yes, it's pricey but trust me, you will be the envy of absolutely everyone with this one
How to search on ebay:
gold jacquard yard* -(upholstery, trim)
Above is your search terms you need. Switch out gold with any color you like and switch out jacquard for damask if you want to change up your results. This will keep most of the trims and upholstery fabrics out of your results and only search for items that have yardage. Make sure you have the "search description" button clicked as well or you won't get a good quantity. This search won't work in etsy or on google given the different search requirements they have on each.
That last fabric is not bad at all. Viscose in its most commercial form is rayon. It has a silky feel, and is used extensively for clothing manufacture. Though it breathes like cotton and has a good drape, it can wrinkle easily and shrink in hot water.
I use a lot of this type of fabric because of its breathe-ability and reasonable price. It also does not fray easily like polyester or acetate. In my avatar, the blue dress is a 100% cotton woven jacquard. But the sleeves and underskirt are 55% cotton/ 45% viscose. They were originally tan and I died them paprika.
$12.00 shipping for that first fabric.. yikes. Looks nice though.
That pure silk brocade is definitely sexy.
This looks very nice as well, from the same seller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Pure-Silk-Brocade-fabric-Gold-metallic-Black-color-/251111951734?pt=US_Fabric&hash=item3a77704d76#ht_6331wt_1166
Quote from: isabelladangelo on July 27, 2012, 10:15:46 AM
The problem you'll have there is that's upholstery fabric. :) It may have a special backing and it will be quite heavy.
A black and gold damask (http://www.ebay.com/itm/GOLD-BLACK-SATIN-TAFFETA-DAMASK-CREST-FABRIC-/190282536985?pt=US_Fabric&hash=item2c4db91819) The price is per a yard but it's well work it.
Honestly, if I hadn't just dropped $200 on ribbons, this would be mine (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pure-Silk-Brocade-Fabric-Olive-Black-Metallic-Gold-/370589315963?pt=US_Fabric&hash=item5648d8337b) Yes, it's pricey but trust me, you will be the envy of absolutely everyone with this one
How to search on ebay:
gold jacquard yard* -(upholstery, trim)
Above is your search terms you need. Switch out gold with any color you like and switch out jacquard for damask if you want to change up your results. This will keep most of the trims and upholstery fabrics out of your results and only search for items that have yardage. Make sure you have the "search description" button clicked as well or you won't get a good quantity. This search won't work in etsy or on google given the different search requirements they have on each.
Does anyone have an opinion about silk blend brocades? I've found several that are 80/20 silk/poly and I'm wondering how the breathablility of the fabric is, ease of use, shine, etc. In terms of cost, the blends are half the price of similar fabric in 100% silk.
If you don't need a slippery lining to slide the finished garment over other clothes, line it with linen. All the silk blend brocades I've used have been fine for the purpose, but I don't wear them in high temperature or high humidity activities or events.
Isabella, that silk brocade is making me weak in the knees.
Silk brocades have been relatively easy to use - not horrible- but will start to fray a bit if you happen to leave the project out for five months and your dog thinks the various pieces make a great bed despite having the pins still in them. ;) Typically, it's the metallic portions that are man-made fibers so you will probably be fine with any mostly silk blend. It will be warm on hot days but it won't be overbearingly so. If you want something that is good for hot, humid days (say MDRF in late August!) I'd go with linen and just add trim. You'll be able to breathe. However, if you are looking something more for those blessed 80F days, the silk brocade will be fine.
Quote from: stonebiscuit on July 30, 2012, 10:44:50 AM
Isabella, that silk brocade is making me weak in the knees.
Isn't it gorgeous? I love a lot of their stuff. However, I already bought ummm...2 1/2 yards of silk organza and enough ribbon to last me until 2015? Because, as we all know, if you see a matching dress and hat trim - you totally need it. Even if it is saftey cone orange. Just because the gathers go so well for 18th C. And then there were all the 1/8" narrow velvet trims that are so perfect for couching or making a new partlet...
Silk Brocade is wonderful to work with. Though I made sure I serged my edges because it does fray.
Sir Niall. Here is an eaarly 17th Century ensemble I did in a Silk Brocade I was very lucky to find on Sale at the Fabric Wharehouse I often shop at...
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/548499_10150786114241280_413447101_n.jpg)
Closeup of the pattern...
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/s720x720/548499_10150786114201280_223666863_n.jpg)
What would be good to use as main fashion fabric if I go with a solid doublet color, and then add trims for embellishment? Twill seems thick and sturdy enough, but there aren't many color options at Joanns. The "regular" 4.99 type cotton cloth (I guess this is broadcloth?) comes in every color you can think of, but doesn't seem thick enough. I don't really want to dye anything either.
Have you signed up to get the Coupon fliers in the mail from JoAnn's or Hancocks?? Coupons come in handy on fabrics that are not on sale. JoAnn's takes competitor coupons for fabric and Notions. They have been having super sales lately.
Also, the Decorator fabric Section usually has good sales of 40 and 50% off per yard of thier 54" fabrics. A Decorator fabric with a slight pattern and trim/piping is plenty for a Doublet.
Sometimes it helps to go online and research various Doublet/Slops combos that strike your fancy. Look at various photo albums from other faires on this forum to see how people dress.
I like using Medium Wale Corduroy for Doublets and Slops. AS well as Cotton Brocades, Jacquards. AS much Cotton fibers, the better for wear and breathability.
A lot of information to digest. Hope this helps.
Quote from: Ser Niall on July 31, 2012, 02:22:34 PM
What would be good to use as main fashion fabric if I go with a solid doublet color, and then add trims for embellishment? Twill seems thick and sturdy enough, but there aren't many color options at Joanns. The "regular" 4.99 type cotton cloth (I guess this is broadcloth?) comes in every color you can think of, but doesn't seem thick enough. I don't really want to dye anything either.
Linen. Heavy linen if you want but a medium weight linen also works. Joanns coupons are good but have you also signed up for fabric.com's coupons and emails? Joanns has some gorgeous linen right now in a variety of colors (I'm a sucker for their purple). It is pricy but that's why there are coupons. Don't go with cotton - it won't look right. Not a huge variety of color (http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-linen-fabric-medium-weight-linen-fabric.aspx) but I know fabric.com's linen is good. They have a lot more than what I posted as well - this was just one of the 100% linen categories they have up.
Tropical weight wool is also a great option. You just missed the fabric.com's sale on that. They still have some (http://www.fabric.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=d2e80b28-6795-4079-9402-c9634033c074) wool but the color choices are sparse.
Linen, twill, and corduroy are all great choices.
I think it's harder to find good colors in twill, however, than the other two. Linen and corduroy come in gads and gads of colors--but often you can only find the right weight of twill in Docker's colors--various shades of khaki. And unlike corduroy and linen, it can be hard to judge twill weight without feeling it. I wanted to use twill for one side of a doublet I'm making my FIL this year. I couldn't find anything locally at all, and the first swatches I ordered online were either the wrong color (bright pumpkin orange instead of a nice deep rust) or the wrong weight (too lightweight/soft) or both. I finally hit on a decent medium blue brushed twill--but it took effort, and I have a lot of fabric-buying experience. I wouldn't recommend it to a beginner!
You can't go wrong with corduroy, though. It's my go-to solid for bodices and doublets. I like that there's a little bit of textural interest, which is nice if you're trying for a slightly different look than linen. (The only reason I didn't use it on FIL's is b/c I was already using it as an accent color on the other side.)
Awesome suggestions, thanks.
I probably seem like I have some kind of costume ADD right now ;D I ended up shelving my original costume concept until a later date. I really want that one to look regal to match my girlfriend's outfit, but I want to research the exact look I want, with the fabrics I want, etc. What I'm doing in the mean time is upgrading my peasant-looking garb into something a bit more middle class.
I ended up going to Joann's today with a handful of 50% off one item coupons, plus a 20% off entire order coupon. I found some nice corduroy fabric that I'm going to use for the doublet body, and I'm using a different color corduroy for the breeches. I found a brocade remnant with a neat vine pattern on clearance that will be large enough to use for the sleeves, wings, and upper shoulder portion of the doublet. The colors will coordinate with the hose, shirt, and hat that I already have. The design will be much simpler, and will be an easier starting point for me.
Something to keep in mind if you are going towards the H/A, they didn't have corduroy until the 17th C and it looks like a late comer even then. Also, the corduroy they had was different from today.
I also really like corduroy. It comes in various wales and even no wale, which looks like velveteen. It's cotton, so it's washable, which is a big plus for me. Available in many colors and usually reasonably priced.
I'm not going for huge historical accuracy, I mainly want to look nice without breaking the bank. The vertical lines in the corduroy I bought are small enough that it kind of looks like a velvet unless you look at it closely. Joann's had a nice selection of colors and it was pretty reasonably priced.
I've actually read in a book that they might have had a fabric similar to modern coduroy in Elizabethan times. They took thick plied velvet and scraped the lines into it, giving it a similar look.
Pile on pile velvet, the precursor to modern corduroy, has been documented as far back as the twelfth century.
The end effect is the same, the technique has changed.
http://www.anarchisma.net/costume3.htm
Here's a pic from my Joann's haul. I saw the brocade, which was looked great and was a good price, and just built up a color scheme around it. The brocade and taupe corduroy will be the doublet, the green corduroy the breeches. The trim is a nice muted gold, with an emerald green cord going through it. Sorry for the picture quality, camera phone and poor light.
(http://i49.tinypic.com/2e5600h.jpg)
I think you made some good matches! I like them a lot!
Lovely combination. Cant wait to see in progress and finished photos.
Well done!!!
Can't wait to see the finished product.
I need some more help from the experts here. Originally I was just going to make a simple pair of venetians using the emerald green fabric above. However, after putting that fabric next to the doublet (in progress pics here: http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php?topic=3590.msg386349#msg386349) the colors don't look quite right together. I have a bunch of fabric left over from the taupe corduroy and green brocade from the doublet, and I've always like the look of the paned slops more, so that leaves me with two options:
1) Have the corduroy fabric as the underlay, and use the green floral brocade for contrast panes. I would be using cotton broadcloth as the lining, which is lighter weight than the corduroy. So I'm wondering if this will effect the "poofiness" of the slops? Since the cord is heavier, will this force the poofs inward as opposed to out and away from my leg?
2) Reverse of #1, use the green floral brocade as the underlay, and use the taupe corduroy for panes, applying the gold braided trim down the middle for some pizzazz. This might eliminate the poofiness issue from option 1 (if it is an issue) since the brocade is silkier and has more movement than the corduroy.
When in doubt, go for pizazz. ;D
(Also, when I'm debating colors, I find it helpful to trace out a couple line drawings of what I'm making, and then just color them in!)
Definitely going with plenty of pizzazz, and I think either color combo will look nice. I'm just worried that the heavier weight corduroy won't poof out like I want it to as opposed to a lighter weight fabric.
I'll break out the colored pencils when I get home ;D
FWIW, I haven't made paned slops, but I've worked with corduroy a lot, and Milord has several different pairs of Fair pants, made in a variety of fabrics. His favorite are a pair of textured corduroy, and one of the reasons he likes them is that they do have a bit more body and "oomph" than lighter, drapier fabrics.
The corduroy has the benefit of having almost no drape--it's reasonably heavy and will crumple and stand out, instead of falling limply. Try grabbing a handful of it, kind of like a balloon, and seeing how it behaves. If it collapses all around your hand, you know it won't give you the look you want. If it sort of holds its shape, you're, well, in good shape! ;)
Also, you can always underline or use interfacing, to change the "hand" of the fabric so it behaves a little more like you want.
If you stuff it good and hard, it shouldn't be a problem. 8)
I use lots and lots of tulle. It will eventually have to be replaced; but it weighs less than other stuffings and has a good 'poof' factor. When a local joann's was going out of business I bought up almost all the white tulle they had left.