Hello again fellow sewers!
I have been looking through pictures, portraiture, and garbing websites and it seems everyone has a different take on how far apart the front opening of the overskirt should be where it meets or goes under the bodice. Some people have a perfect inverted ' V ' on their gown, others have a gap anywhere from an inch to as wide as hip bone to hip bone. Is there a reason for the differences or just preference? Perhaps not quite enough fabric for overskirt (my problem) so to make it seem more full you would use less in the front...?
I am repleating my skirt this afternoon and thought I'd ask the question before I got started. :)
It's a region/decade/personal preference thing.
You can see how it changes in portraits here:
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Various_3.htm
MG!!
On the Noble garb you have seen me wear, my overskirts are either 3-60" width panels, or 3 1/2-45" panels. All lay flat at the opening to get that inverted V look. The trick is in the Cartridge pleating. At the Opening ends, I fold over each side 6" .
Here are some examples of Overskirts...
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/553891_10150756557191280_626930853_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/47398_472275661279_2393371_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/6331_138448201279_1731875_n.jpg)
Hope this helps.
I know some cast members who have a slightly wider gap simply because it makes the overskirt lay more to the sides and back. If you need to go from spot a to spot b at a quick trot, less fabric right where your feet are is a plus.
But most portraits you see from the period show a nice V.
I'm pretty sure that it is more a matter of personal preference than anything else. Work with what you have to make the finished product as close to what YOU like as possible. =) Remember, there aren't rules so much as there are suggestable guidelines. =D
Quote from: LadyFae on August 08, 2012, 09:44:34 AM
I'm pretty sure that it is more a matter of personal preference than anything else. Work with what you have to make the finished product as close to what YOU like as possible. =) Remember, there aren't rules so much as there are suggestable guidelines. =D
Actually, it depends on what you are making the garb for. If you are trying to be H/A then there are rules. If you are doing it for a costume house, there are rules. Many faires also have rules.
Quote from: isabelladangelo on August 08, 2012, 09:49:01 AM
Quote from: LadyFae on August 08, 2012, 09:44:34 AM
I'm pretty sure that it is more a matter of personal preference than anything else. Work with what you have to make the finished product as close to what YOU like as possible. =) Remember, there aren't rules so much as there are suggestable guidelines. =D
Actually, it depends on what you are making the garb for. If you are trying to be H/A then there are rules. If you are doing it for a costume house, there are rules. Many faires also have rules.
Hehe, that is definately NOT MG nor MNRF! Thanks, though! :)
It may also depend on whether you are attaching your skirt to the bodice or not - I keep mine separate, which means it is easier to have the top edge of the overskirt meet each other with a hook, it also lessens the weight I carry from my shoulders. If you attach to the bodice, you and do what you feel looks best.
(http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/255_26871221279_7028_n.jpg)
On my Mary, Queen of Scots gown, the overskirt is attached to the Bodice I used the same procedure as if I were attaching the overskirt to a waistband, with a slight dip in the front to with the point of the bodice.
Hope this helps you, MG!!!
Thanks, all. I definitely am NOT historically accurate. More like historically inspired. My colors and fabric choices are strictly for my own enjoyment. I just got to wondering about the opening at the skirt front after seeing so many differences.
My original gown was skirt and bodice separate but I had a problem with the skirt not staying put and gapping at the back despite having taken it is several times so I have pulled it apart and I'm going to attach it to the bodice. I hope this solves the problem. If not, I kept the waistband so I can go back to option A.
The dress you see in my avatar is two seperate pieces. And yes, after some hours of wear it starts to gap, in several places. The dresses I have made since are all one piece.
Quote from: DonaCatalina on August 09, 2012, 05:07:10 AM
The dress you see in my avatar is two seperate pieces. And yes, after some hours of wear it starts to gap, in several places. The dresses I have made since are all one piece.
Dona, do you have any concerns about the weight of your skirt on your bodice? I was thinking about that. I worry that it'll be too heavy for the amount of fabric supporting it. Now I'm doubting myself-Grrr!
Quote from: Marietta Graziella on August 09, 2012, 07:56:17 AM
Quote from: DonaCatalina on August 09, 2012, 05:07:10 AM
The dress you see in my avatar is two seperate pieces. And yes, after some hours of wear it starts to gap, in several places. The dresses I have made since are all one piece.
Dona, do you have any concerns about the weight of your skirt on your bodice? I was thinking about that. I worry that it'll be too heavy for the amount of fabric supporting it. Now I'm doubting myself-Grrr!
Of course this is coming AFTER you've removed the waistband of your skirt BUT Amy solved the gapping issue by attatching her skirt to her bodice but leaving the waistband intact. She cinched the waist of her skirt normally and then laced up her bodice- thus distributing the weight better. Gives the look of two pieces without the weight of one just hanging from your shoulders!
Quote from: Marietta Graziella on August 09, 2012, 07:56:17 AM
Quote from: DonaCatalina on August 09, 2012, 05:07:10 AM
The dress you see in my avatar is two seperate pieces. And yes, after some hours of wear it starts to gap, in several places. The dresses I have made since are all one piece.
Dona, do you have any concerns about the weight of your skirt on your bodice? I was thinking about that. I worry that it'll be too heavy for the amount of fabric supporting it. Now I'm doubting myself-Grrr!
Actually, no. I use a doubleknit stitch ( ZZZZZZZ) so that they don't separate. For my spine, carrying the weight across the whole body is better that having it all at the small of my back.
I apply hook and eyes around the bodice and skirt to connect it without connecting them together! I have also sewed them together as well but I like having separate pieces as it is easier to place in my storage. I do like how the weight of my skirts help my bodice to stay in place.
Quote
Dona, do you have any concerns about the weight of your skirt on your bodice? I was thinking about that. I worry that it'll be too heavy for the amount of fabric supporting it.
I know I'm coming late to this, but so far with the gowns I've made, the vast majority of the weight actually comes from the bodice (with all the layers of boning & interlining & closures & trim), not the skirts. YMMV, but I think they eventually balance each other out.