I have yet another kirtle :D in the works and was wondering if there was any interest in a sew along, or video diary styled installments as I make one?
I can cover construction, details and finishing easy enough and possibly draping a pattern and basic fitting.
Thoughts, interest or ideas are welcomed!
YES!!!!
Ok, I'm not actually making a kirtle right now. Or, um, for a while. But I definitely want to follow along on the thread! It could be a whole resource for supportive undergowns, petticoat bodies, &c of all kinds.
Next up on my someday list is to tackle the kirtle from The Queen's Servants. I want to experiment with that high neckline.
You two are my dream team match-up!! I'm not planning a kirtle, in fact I've never made one, but I would love to follow along with you Centuries!! If I could choose a kirtle mentor you would be it--and I *do* hope to make one some day, it would be a phenomenal resource for me. In other words: Yes please, video diary, blog, notes tacked to cork board, whatever!
Quote from: Wickedvox on August 09, 2012, 10:10:46 PM
Yes please, video diary, blog, notes tacked to cork board, whatever!
Interpretive Dance? ;)
Kirtle Galliard, maybe?
Done to Dowland's little known "Alas the eyelets made me weep" ;D
We cannot forget the very popular hip hop song "Sleevils gonna get ya"
;D
You guys are cracking me up!!
"She's just a devil woman, with sleevils on her mind..."
To go with Knights in white satin dancing The Monarchism Tango!
Of course, there is always "Stitch it" by Devo. Stitch it. Stitch it good.
...Or the inevitable sequel: "Rip It." ;D
Rip it! That's the song of anything I sew.
I'd totally be interested in a kirtle sew along! I'm finishing mine up, and I'm hoping someone has an easier process to make one 0_o
I'm going to miss these boards *SO* much when school starts back up in 3 weeks :'( You guys have me on the floor!!
At this rate we will have a kirtle sew along music video. :o
Raven, what issues have you been having?
Now for some general brainstorming,
It might take me a few weeks to get everything together for this.
I've been checking back and forth between here and my facebook page, there is interest in both places. I think a bulk of the posts will go on my website. The only deadline I'm setting is for myself, to help keep me on track. Everyone else can work at their own pace. Should someone have to drop the project and pick it up a year later they will have something to refer back to.
A flickr pool or forum thread would be great for folks to post their wip in.
I'm leaning toward doing video posts, I'm a visual learner so it appeals to me. :) I've made enough kirtles in various forms that I'm comfortable enough in my process to share. It is just one way to make them, and I think the basics can be applied to other eras as well. I haven't decided on how in-depth to go yet, the biggest issue to my mind is patterning/fit.
Idea wise I'm at:
Show draping on the dressform, but not everyone has access to a dressform..
Start from a store bought pattern and heavily adapt and modify it.
Keep it simple, let everyone worry about their own pattern and just cover the sewing side of things.
Materials wise:
I have the wool, interlinings are from my stash. I just need to see if it is in the funds this month to get some linen for lining.
As another visual thinker and learner, I find a mix of stills and video's to be good. I also find a good explanation to go with it then catches the theoretical thinkers. I really need to practice my video skills.
As for a pattern... There are several good ones about. The ones I seem to gravitate towards for this sort of thing are the Tudor Tailor ones (I scale up from the book, but they also do paper patterns), and the child's one from the Royal Palaces website, which would scale up well for those of more slender figures. Janet Arnold has one, I think... I avoid DeReconstructing History as there have been so many fails with their patterns in my life that I have sworn off them for the sake of sanity and murder! ;D I've only once used a commercial (Big Three) pattern, and it was OK, but more theatrical in construction than historical.
My problems have stemmed from putting the pieces together. Basically the best way to attach the fashion fabric to the interlining, when to do the guards, at what point do you stitch the straps down. How do you end up with nice seams all around. It's like this big puzzle, and I was always horrible at geometry.
I basically learned a million different ways to NOT construct a kirtle with this first one.
Also, I'd love a tutorial on cartridge pleating. I want to do it, but it seems tedious and difficult.
If you do videos, I'd probably appreciate written instructions as well. I also don't have a dressform (though I want one) so that part of it wouldn't apply to me. I do have a fitting bodice pattern already, if I don't get too excited about cleavage and chop the front too short so it is too small for my fat.
Quote from: CenturiesSewing on August 11, 2012, 12:29:16 AM
Idea wise I'm at:
Show draping on the dressform, but not everyone has access to a dressform..
Start from a store bought pattern and heavily adapt and modify it.
Keep it simple, let everyone worry about their own pattern and just cover the sewing side of things.
I've never draped, but would be open to it--as long as I get a dress form from an estate sale I'll be going to.
Adapting & modifying patterns can get confusing for me--and don't you need a dressmakers ruler for that? On the other hand, god knows we've *all* had to wing it at times, so this may be a good option.
I think you'd be opening yourself up to a *flood* of questions from people doing a *lot* of different patterns, as the sewing instructions may not mesh with their version. It might actually be easier for *you* to take it from start to finish.
That's my humble opinion!
I'll put it this way - I only learned what the heck a dressmakers ruler was this past May. Honest. I have never used one nor seen a reason to use one. I've done most of my patterning through a mix of flat measurements (regular ole measuring tape!) and draping.
Quote from: isabelladangelo on August 11, 2012, 03:09:36 PM
I'll put it this way - I only learned what the heck a dressmakers ruler was this past May. Honest. I have never used one nor seen a reason to use one. I've done most of my patterning through a mix of flat measurements (regular ole measuring tape!) and draping.
Wooooowww....good to know! I've always thought drafting your own pattern meant lots of rulers, tools, special 3-D imaging software, algebra lol! I'm intimidated as *he!!* by drafting. I just this past month drafted my own skirt pattern (which saves *tremendously* on yardage--2.5 yds for a skirt, ooooh yeah!), and my dog's "garb" pattern--and I've been sewing for *years.* This makes me want to see a tutorial even MORE!
Basic geometry is helpful but nothing too complicated. Most of the time, you measure it all out, draw it up, try the mock up on, and make the edits. A bit time consuming but not overly difficult.
I either have or have ready access to a number of fancy devices for making patterns. The things I use MOST are the 24" quilter's ruler, the 12" VERY ACCURATE steel draftsman's ruler, and a set of French Curves a lot older than I am! The next up is the grader's set square, which is unbeatable for squaring up and down when you need right angles. I also have things like the Pattern Master:
(http://www.morplan.com/images/ExtendedSitesCatalogAssetStore/images/full/41541.jpg)
And the metric Variform Curve:
(http://www.morplan.com/images/ExtendedSitesCatalogAssetStore/images/full/L4-43101.jpg)
But unless you are drawing really fitted or really curvy pattern pieces, a decent 24" or 36" ruler, a set square and a either a set of French Curves or a Flexicurve for armscye's and sleeve heads will be all you really need.
I thought I'd post some good kirtle resources from around the 'Net.
http://freespace.virgin.net/f.lea/kirguide1.html An excellent, step-by-step guide (with photos!) to creating a working-class kirtle. I can't tell you how many times I've read through her instructions.
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/makekirtle.html Drea Leeds's basic recipe for making a kirtle using her Custom Corset Generator. Lots of good information; scanty on the pictures.
Because Raven asked for one, Leeds also has basic cartridge-pleating instructions: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cartpleat/index.html ...although the best one is right here on our forum: http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php?topic=8365.0 This thread has Lady K's brilliant gingham-facing technique for simplifying the marking process (which I am about to employ on my new middle-class skirt), as well as lots of great photos posted by PR costumers. Really an excellent resource.
Bump! So what's the status of this? I just got a *huge* stash from an estate liquidation and I got some wools (I think lol) and I think I need to make a kirtle!
Wicked I am working on getting everything together! Bit of a delay as I have hurricane Issaac on my doorstep tomorrow.. just in time for my birthday. ::)
Any pics of your fabric haul? It sounds like a good one. You can always try the bleach test on a few small cuts of wool to see if they are blends or not.
Well, you just tell Isaac that it's not a very convenient time for us...geeze! Stay safe for crying out loud!
Yes! I've taken pics, just need to upload them--wait until you see everything I got! I even forgot a couple items at the house and have to go back for them ::)
What's the bleach test?
Hopefully it will just be some wind and rain.
Bleach test, pour some regular chlorine bleach into a an old jar, add a few small snippings of what you suspect is wool. Leave it over night. If it is wool it will dissolve, if it is blend some of it will dissolve and leave behind little threads.
Cool! I'll try that, thanks!
I wrote this up on my blog, but I'm just going to cross post relevant bits here.
(http://centuries-sewing.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/sewalongbanner.jpg)
General Materials needed:
I'm giving a rough idea in the amounts listed if you are taller than average or plan to heavily preshrink your fabrics add more yardage.
4 to 5 yards of wool
4 to 5 yards linen for lining or just 2 yards of linen if only lining the bodice and sleeves
1 to 2 yards of twill/drill/canvas for interlining
2 to 4 yards muslin/calico for flatlining and mock ups
Matching embrodiery thread for eyelets
A roll of paper for patterning, or newspaper can work in a pinch..
Tracing wheel
Awl
Chalk
Hand sewing needles, pins and so forth.
Lacing strips for fitting.
Pattern:
I decided on a store bought pattern just to make it as accessible as possible. Simplicity 3723 and 2354 is a basic costume pattern in a good range of sizes, the "Pilgrim" dress has waist darts and bust darts but no other fancy shaping so it is ideal for adapting. I'll cover rotating out the darts, adapting the pattern to a curved front bodice, trouble shoot any fitting issues as best I can and any other things that might come up.
We will be ignoring the pattern instructions, if you have a similar pattern in your stash, feel free to use it instead. :)
This is "SEW" exciting! Har har har! I'm bookmarking your blog for later use, but will be reading along when I'm not studying--school officially started today >:( :'(
Finally had a chance to finish writing part 1, the holidays are eating up my free time. :o
http://centuries-sewing.com/2012/12/02/kirtle-sew-along-measurements-and-adjustments/ (http://centuries-sewing.com/2012/12/02/kirtle-sew-along-measurements-and-adjustments/)
This installment covers some basic measuring, adjustments, and how to pivot darts out of patterns.
What fortuitous timing! I've just purchased some wonderful medium/heavy linen that I'd like to turn into a kirtle!
Thank you so much for sharing your techniques and talent!