My embroidered muslin has decided it wants to be made into the high-necked shirt (A) from Simplicity 4059 (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/23865558/403589084.jpg) (but for me, so a little teeny one!). I've made the shirt before, and it has what I'd call "basic Renfair shirt construction" (as opposed to historical construction)--a faced or lined yoke from shoulders to mid-chest/back (ie, two layers of fabric), and then the remainder of the shirt fabric gathered into that. Milord has several purchased shirts made the same way.
As I was cutting my pieces out this morning, I began to second-guess the lined yoke. It's nice in that you don't have to finish or reinforce the front/neck opening, since the raw edges are inside the yoke, and I guess there's also a modesty factor, depending on the fabric used, and it results in a very nicely sturdy garment. But is it really necessary? And is it something I want on my current project?
Can you guys help me decide? ???
My fabric is a fairly sheer embroidered muslin. I don't plan to line the sleeves. You can kind of see the opposite effect (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17480040/403627510.jpg) in the Helena Snakenborg/unknown woman portrait--her sleeves appear to be slightly more opaque than her partlet/top.
The advantages of doing the lined yoke that I can see (I would be lining with plain muslin, not the embroidered):
--It would protect the embroidery from friction on the inside
--It might make the front opening seams less visible than if they were just turned under & stitched down
--Protect the raw edges (to a point).
--It gives a really lovely clean finish to the inside of the garment
--Modesty, maybe? And the embroidery might "pop" better if it's lined.
Cons?
--Do I want/need an extra layer of fabric there? It might be too warm/bulky...?
--It's an extra step (a somewhat significant one), and I'm pressed for time.
--If it wasn't needed historically, and isn't in the average woman's fairwear chemise or blouse pattern, why do I need to do it?
I really think those last two are kind of why I'm leaning *against* it, and honestly, at the moment they're sort of weighing more heavily than that totally reasonable long list of Pros!
But I can't make up my mind! Can someone try to talk me either way, and then maybe I'll be able to tell what I really want to do? ::) Ha!
Gramercy!!
I've done both, regretted not doing the facing. A thinner cooler shirt does you no good if it started to fray or just come apart under wear and tear of a long day.
I'd be tempted to make something more like this:
(http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2006AM/2006AM7157_jpg_l.jpg)
Or this:
(http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2006AM/2006AM8281_jpg_l.jpg) (http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2006AT/2006AT9382_jpg_l.jpg)
Make the top, collar and sleeves out of the embroidered fabric and the bottom half out of pain fabric. There's enough bulk that the see-through effect really isn't very under a gown, and it'll be cool. If you whip the edges firmly to the narrow lace, they won't fray.
Quote from: DonaCatalina on August 20, 2012, 04:55:26 AM
I've done both, regretted not doing the facing. A thinner cooler shirt does you no good if it started to fray or just come apart under wear and tear of a long day.
Ditto. Same thing happened to me.
Personally, I hate hemming/edge finishing, so I'd do the lining just for the chance to cut down on some of that. :) Plus, I'd think it would be more comfy to not have the back of the embroidery rubbing on your skin.
Thanks, all! I tried on the mockup, and OMG YES, IT WILL ABSOLUTELY BE LINED! :o I may even be lowering the yoke, per point #5, above. :) Clearly, this was drafted with men in mind! LOL
***
Here's another question: I made the size small, and it fits OK, but it was pretty hard to pull on over my head. I've had this happen in RTW, but I'm not sure what's causing it. Is it the seam at the bottom of the yoke (which makes up part of the armscye)? Would loosening that up a bit in the side seams help? Or maybe making the slit deeper (I like where the slit lands now, however)?
***
Kate, I've actually made a version (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/4707019/387669438.jpg) of that first blackwork smock, and that's what I plan for my embroidered linen, when I get it finished (I have one sleeve (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/8860218/403627457.jpg) done). I'm not sure why I didn't just go ahead and use that draft for this project (and there was Quite Serious Consideration, between that, and Margo's high-necked smock, and...), except that the fabric just didn't want to. :-\
You have to obey the fabri9c! ;D ;D ;D
piping in late here, just got back from camping and then MiRF. Can you add some seam allowance and do a french hem on those seams that "rub?" I see where the gathers attach to the chest and it appears it could be rubbing on a *ahem* particularly sensitive area of the chest for a woman...at least for *some* lol! I'd take the time for the yoke myself also.
Well, the really nice thing about the lining/facing is that it's whipstitched down over that gathered seam, so all you have against your skin is a finished edge.
So, new question...
I mentioned earlier that the shirt in a Small is hard to get on/off over my head. The folks on PatternReview recommend either extending the slit past the yoke seam (which sort of defeats the purpose of the lined yoke, right? ???), or adding underarm gussets (which I'm not sure how to do to a curved/modern armscye that also includes the yoke seam). There's already a lot happening in that area, with the seam allowances for the yoke, the body, and the sleeve all meeting up in the underarm.
I am wondering if it might be simpler just to go up to a Medium...?
Any suggestions?
Gramercy!
Face or bind the slit extension.
Quote from: Kate XXXXXX on August 21, 2012, 01:50:10 PM
Face or bind the slit extension.
Love it! Otherwise I'd go up a size then alter it down without disrupting the yoke. Kate's suggestion sounds quick and easy though.
What I did for the kids when the had infant head was put a second smaller slit in the back of the yoke.
What if you were to make the yoke bigger (longer?) so that it would drop down farther in the front to allow a larger slit for you to put through your head?
Butch, that's the current plan! I wouldn't mind an extra couple inches of coverage, so I'm going to do another muslin where I go up to a Medium at the yoke seam and make it 2" longer.
My hope was to have this by opening weekend, but it's not looking likely at the moment!