I need a little advice
I am working on a tall, hopefully flared and standing leather collar for a capelet
It will be lined.
Should I put some kind of boning or interfacing to it??
Normally I work with veg tanned leather and I can make it do whatever I want, this is softer tanned/colored leather- maybe3.5-4.5 oz in weight
The collar will be about 3.5" in height from the base of the neck- visualize a button down blouse with the collar popped up- about that height and flare.
Can we see the pattern pieces? Or at least an image similar to the finished look?
I'm visualizing something like this (the collar part):
(http://www.elizabethancostume.net/lowerclass/images/partlet-pat.jpg)
(http://www.verymerryseamstress.com/pictures/kirtle008.jpg)
I would almost always use some kind of interfacing in a collar, particularly one you want to stand up, just because you're asking the fabric/leather to do something against its nature, and because the weight of the seam around the edge will want to pull it back down and make it flop. I don't know what was done in period, but if you want to read a great argument in favor of interfacing, Kathleen Fasanella has a great one here at Fashion Incubator (http://fashion-incubator.com/archive/interfacing_10_tips/).
thanks gem
that's a similar look to what I am envisioning
unfortunately its all in my head- haven't found anything online remotely similar to what I want to make.
I have the sketches and toille at home. Ill take pictures when I get there (hopefully soon, I am so over today)
The only difference from my vision and the picture you posted is that one of the lapels will cross over the other but I definitely want that sloped angle like your picture shows.
Fuse the leather to some interface, just do a few test bits first to get an idea of how it will change the drape.
I have an example for a "Gollar" Which is the same partlet thingee that Gem speaks of, if that helps at all!
http://katafalk.wordpress.com/2012/01/06/patternmaking-for-the-kampfrau-gollar/ (http://katafalk.wordpress.com/2012/01/06/patternmaking-for-the-kampfrau-gollar/)
Cilean
You could also wire the edge ala buckram hats.
If you are lining it, I would be tempted to experiment with some light weight flat narrow steel boning...
Well
after I literally wasted $30 of fabric (first time in my life I managed to cut the patterns out not once but 3 times)
I put a hold on this until saturday.
The leather side is cut out and perfect.
I was thinking of playing around with some feather boning like you mentioned Kate
but I don't have any steel boning
I just have the featherweight stuff they sell at Joanns
Centuries, I was thinking that too, to frame it like they do hat brims.
I am going to enclose all the edges with bias tape (even though I haven't decided what color yet) so I think I will be ok with nothing showing or poking trough if I go the way of the wire.
Thank you for the pattern Cilean,
I am saving that right now.
I technically finished the pattern of the collar but I like yours better so I am going to take it apart and redo it your way.
Just wanted to say thanks for all the good suggestions.
I ended up going with a heavy interfacing attached to the lining fabric and a curved design at the neck.
Overall I am happy with it.
now I just need to finish lining the darn thing and applying bias tape to everything
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/377286_496658407013938_1943119200_n.jpg)
Terrific! I was hoping you'd post pics. :)
Can't wait to see the finished version!