I started sewing up the sleeves for my doublet, I figured get them done while I have all of my sewing stuff still out (plus the weather is getting chillier). I'm using the fantasy fashions dashing doublet sleeve pattern option B (the open sleeve). I have the main sleeve done, it was pretty easy. I'm having trouble understanding what they want me to do with the cuff. The instructions want me to stitch along the top and bottom (longer edges), and down one of the short side edges. It says to turn them right side out, press, pleat the sleeve into the cuff right sides together, turn, and then top stitch the seam down. This doesn't make sense to me, since it's basically using 2 seam allowances - one for the cuff construction, and then another after the cuff is attached to the sleeve. Because of this, it's going to be a little shorter than I expected.
Am I totally missing something? I know several of you have used this pattern, so if you could share your wisdom I'd be very grateful!
I made my husband's cuffs from his wrist measurements.
I added 1" to the actual length and double the depth. Then I folded the cuffs in half, wrong side out, and sewed 80% of the edges together. Then I flipped it right side out so that it is a rectangle. I prefer to make cuffs with buttons button holes for his comfort because he has large muscular hands and wrists. I believe the pattern is trying to get you to make a tubular cuff. This is great for one size fits all; but I think you will be happier with the other type. After you put in the button hole, then attach cuff to sleeve.
(http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/needlework/Text-Book-On-Domestic-Art/images/Shirt-Waist-Sleeve-28.jpg)
(http://www.customshirt1.com/ImagesInformative/ShirtPatt72_6p5h.jpg)
The pattern calls for sewing loops of ribbon into the seam to go around buttons at the cuff, and all the way up the sleeve since it is the open style. However, it seems like this wouldn't hold very well at the cuff, I'm probably going to modify it so that it uses an actual button hole.
As for actually attaching the cuff to the sleeve, do I just sew the cuff to the sleeve, right sides together, turn, press, and then top stitch the seam down? That's what makes sense to me, but the pattern seems to say something different. They have a seam allowance for when you sew the actual cuff and lining together, but then you'd have to take an "extra" seam allowance when sewing the finished cuff to the sleeve. This is causing it to be a bit shorter than expected due to this extra seam allowance.
I hope I'm making sense and not being totally confusing. Perhaps I'm just over-thinking it?
"right sides together, turn, press, and then top stitch the seam down?"
Yep.
And if you sewed the cuff the way I descibed before turning it right side out; you will have less raw fabric edge to deal with.
Thanks, I think I got it. I'll give it a go this weekend.