Hello all,
Amy and I while Rennies are far from die hard ones but we would like to start stepping up our game as far as garb goes. Amy has been making gowns for a while but the last couple years she has been looking at the other gowns a bit jealously, especially Dona Catalina. While at TRF and seeing the QoH dressed to the 9s we were even more envious. She has the basic gown making down but the accessorizing is where we fail.
Now out side of picking someone's gown and duplicating it (Rennie or historical) we would have a bit of difficulty pulling it off. She has problems "seeing" something and I, while can picture things well, have questionable taste.
What would you all recommend?
Jim
A lot of people on these boards look through historical paintings for inspiration. That will give you an idea as to color choices, clothing styles, jewelry, etc. Some of the pattern sets like Margo Anderson also come with large manuals that go into detail as to what fabrics and colors are historically appropriate.
Personally, I usually just go into Joann's and browse until I find a fabric I like. I use that as my "main" fabric, and I pick out other fabrics and trim that go with it. I also sketched out the outfit with colored pencil to get a rough idea of what the finished product would look like.
My process is usually REALLY much the same as SirNail. I find my fabrics (2 or 3 complementary ones) and sketch out what the fabric wants to become. After that I find my trim and accessories. Sometimes I find trim or accessories that I just HAVE to have and get them then have to plan garb around them. That is much more difficult for me.
I go through a ton of historical portraits and look at the cuts of what few extant outfits we have left - if any. I tend to like the color of one gown but the trim of another, the cut of a third, and the hat or hair from yet another. If you narrow it down to a country and a decade, it helps a lot. For instance, in 1530's Italy, a lot of the gowns were red, raised waist, with puffy sleeves - given that pretty much 75% of the gowns of that decade look very similar, recreating that style is easy.
When you give yourself parameters to follow - like limiting to a decade and country- it becomes much easier to visualize a concept. It's because there is so much that people tend to get overwhelmed.
I use portraits from the Renaissance and use them as my inspiration.....I can't quite duplicate the portrait.
But that's more because my gut tells me that the Marquesa of Trives wouln't be caught dead in a copy of a gown worn by the Condesa de Leganza.
(is Pride or Greed the unofficlal sin of Spain?)
Accessories can really help. A brooch, or several, from discount store.. gentlemen wore brooches too, a velvet bag from Goodwill that came from Avon or a liquor store originally, a waist girdle made out of pearls strung on fishing line.
Simplicity patterns are relatively easy to use I know it seems like a waist of time; but make one out of plain cotton first to make sure you have the fit.
For Lady Amy, I recommend Simplicity 2589 for the gown, but not the sleeves...or Simplicity 3782.
For you milord, Simplicity 4059.
Then get thee to a fabric store and look for some fancier fabric. ...but don't go hog wild on trim for the first one. Understated trim is not likely to clash with your accessories. :)
I'm always willing to help. If you wished, I could show the workshop where it all evolves.....you could see the belly of the beast, so to speak.
Thanks all.
She has done 2598 (you may seen it, don't remember if she finished it time) -
(http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/8434/img0239alt.jpg)
And 3782 (she doesn't wear it as much since the sleeves are uncomfortably stiff) -
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg535/scaled.php?server=535&filename=dress2009atthefair1clos.jpg&res=medium)
I think this one is 7756 -
(http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg685/scaled.php?server=685&filename=dress2ts.jpg&res=medium)
While (at least from my bias eye) they are well done just still plain compared to "Court" dresses and Amy doesn't do peasant. If she is going to choose some one else to be she will be noble at the minimum ;D
Jim
A simple fix for more of the "court look" would be to add a hoop and bum roll under her skirts. She'd want to add mud guards to the bottom of the skirts to keep the proper length, but that is a proper look anyway.
Passed that on to Amy and she asked me to pass back, how does one drive in a hoop skirt and bum roll? She means it seriously as she would love to get rid of the crinolines. They are rather hot down here in Texas but it is an hour drive one way.
Jim
Actually, it is very easy to do, especially once you get used to it and I use a very wide 6 bone hoop and a SUPER big bum roll! The hoops are flexible so they squish easily in the car and when you go to sit down you gather them all together in back and place them behind you. The bum roll just makes you sit up straight and doesn't allow you to lean back in the seat. No biggie, and I drive an hour just to get to Faire!
Also, you can drive to Faire in your chemise, corset, and bloomers and dress yourself in the parking lot. Been there, done that plenty of times, too! =)
Putting some beads and some other shineys would be a good idea, take it easy though you dont want it to look like you were mauled by a bedazzler. ::)
I recently found this article (http://www.extremecostuming.com/gallery/hallofshame.html) by Extreme Costuming's Laura Mellin, where she walks you through some of her early costumes and explains the evolution of her historically accurate costuming, and what she would do now to improve various pieces. Many of her pieces look pretty good to the average person, and it's really interesting to see her point out the crucial details that help improve the look (like more petticoats, etc).
Personally, I think the single most important thing that sets great costumer's work apart is the attention to getting the fit absolutely perfect. From here on the boards, look at the work of people like Centuries Sewing, Silverstah, and Operafantomet. After mastering fit, fine detail work can really make a difference, particularly with noble class wear--have a look at pieces by Syrilla, KateXXXX, and Lady Kathleen.
I'd also recommend reading the diaries at websites like Featured Attyre, Realm of Venus, and the like (wrong computer at the moment; can't do links!).
HTH! :)
I will say that this year I have finally realized I will never be able to pull of the wonderful, over-the-top wench looks that are so much fun. I just don't have the knack at combining those pieces and pulling together a really great wench look. Something about the accessories or the layers of skirts or something... I don't know what it is, but I'm missing it. ;) BUT... I feel a lot more confident in my ability to pull off a well-tailored historical look and get all of *those* details looking correct. So maybe she just hasn't found her true costuming comfort zone yet!
Quote from: Drac on November 21, 2012, 08:55:59 AM
Passed that on to Amy and she asked me to pass back, how does one drive in a hoop skirt and bum roll? She means it seriously as she would love to get rid of the crinolines. They are rather hot down here in Texas but it is an hour drive one way.
Jim
I put a hoop on when I get to the parking loot. Scarborough lets the ladies use their restroom by the gate if you get there before 9:00am. I don't use a bumroll because there is not much evidence for one in Spain prior to 1550.
Black and white dress is stunning; but needs a hoop to display it.
Fix for green 3782 would be to open slits along two sides of the sleeves and add some gold/colored trim along the edges.
http://www.cheeptrims.com/store/item.asp?Category=20&SubCategoryID=57&GroupID=&SKU=BBM%2D392
mud gards out of a contrasting fabric and edged in the same trim would also 'jazz up' the look.
pearl or gold chain girdles make a big difference in the look. http://www.etsy.com/listing/55147949/the-regent-pearl-girdle-in-gold
Quote from: DonaCatalina on November 26, 2012, 05:16:39 AMpearl or gold chain girdles make a big difference in the look. http://www.etsy.com/listing/55147949/the-regent-pearl-girdle-in-gold
Christmas present!!! Bonus!!! ;D
Thanks Dona. I will pass on the recommendations to Amy. Me, I am saving up for a sheath for my sgian and a leather doublet. After that is is a matter of accessories.
Jim
Oh, that place is dangerous. I didn't see the recommended items! I think I will be getting a few things there for her. Probably going with this -
http://www.etsy.com/listing/37819161/the-lady-elaine-bodice-jewels-fit-for-a?ref=sr_gallery_2&ga_search_query=renaissance+bodice+jewelry&ga_order=most_relevant&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_ship_to=US&ga_search_type=all&from_reg=2&joined=1
Probably black to go with everything but I wish I could swing this set -
http://www.etsy.com/listing/88587080/complete-set-custom-made-tudor?ref=correlated_featured
But I have a hat on order from the Hat People for the Julep :-[
Jim
let me clue you in to my favorite.
http://www.sapphireandsage.com/
She will let you pick your own colors.
http://www.etsy.com/listing/47280900/black-pearls-aurora-bodice-jewelry
and I have a black pearl set from this lady.
Quote from: DonaCatalina on November 28, 2012, 05:33:03 AM
let me clue you in to my favorite.
http://www.sapphireandsage.com/
She will let you pick your own colors.
http://www.etsy.com/listing/47280900/black-pearls-aurora-bodice-jewelry
and I have a black pearl set from this lady.
Very nice. I like the way they model them on paintings.
I been in contact with the ones from my link and I will be saving pennies (lots of pennies!) to see about having a set made with real stones and fresh water pearls. May not happen but going to give it a try.
Jim