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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: Jon Hanslow on January 22, 2013, 08:40:55 PM

Title: Newest Project...
Post by: Jon Hanslow on January 22, 2013, 08:40:55 PM
So, I have decided to take on an endeavor...

I will be turning this:
(http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u633/hanslow/image_zpsca1c7568.jpeg)

Into something like this:
(http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u633/hanslow/piratecoatpiping_zps8b9479a3.jpg)

Advice/suggestions are greatly appreciated! I'll post pics as soon as its done
Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: DonaCatalina on January 23, 2013, 04:44:54 AM
It may seem easier to start with a premade coat, but the cuts will be different.
But to start, I would see if you can remove the long collar on the modern coat.
Then because it overlaps so much more than the 17th century greatcoat, I would diassemble the front panels and see if they can be cut back.
You will need to reserve the fabric from the removed collar to make the Roman collar for the great coat. In order to add the piping you need two pieces for the inside and outside.
Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: isabelladangelo on January 23, 2013, 06:54:09 AM
It won't be easy if it even can be done.  DonaCatalina is right, the cuts are completely different.  With a Frock Coat, you should be able to lay it out flat, on the floor, have only a slight trapezoid with arms - for the most part.  Modern coats aren't built that way.   The materials are also very different.  Most trench coats - modeled after the WWI trench coat- are not 100% anything.  Most are a mix of man made fibers with maybe some cotton twill thrown into the mix. 

If you are looking to save money, I'd go with a pair of velvet curtains and start from there. 

http://thecostumersmanifesto.com/index.php?title=18th_Century_Clothing_Patterns (http://thecostumersmanifesto.com/index.php?title=18th_Century_Clothing_Patterns) <- and excellent starting point to see how the cuts of coats were in the 18th C

If you want to salvage your project, I'd go steampunk with the trench coat.   It would be a lot easier and you could always be an airship pirate.  ;-)
Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: Gauwyn of Bracknell on January 23, 2013, 11:24:13 AM
Trust in what these two have said - they know their stuff.  (will see you this summer with new duds??)

Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: Jon Hanslow on January 23, 2013, 11:49:35 AM
Aye, I should have clarified, and I thought it was in the original post...

I'm doing this for a quick fix for Winterfest this weekend. I'm in need of something to keep me warm that isn't my cloak (cloak is too cumbersome and I need to be able to move) and I figured I'd have me mate look at it and see what we could come up with on the fly. It will probably never be used outside of this weekend, and for a total of 25 bucks for a few events in winter use until I can have my new duds custom made...Its worth it
Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: gem on January 23, 2013, 11:50:24 AM
I agree that there are going to be some possibly insurmountable challenges with the two coats, as shown. But I *do* think you can refashion a mundane coat into something passable--maybe a little more like this (sorry about the mannequin! :o):

(http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server3500/6e99f/products/176/images/807/A03%2528%25E5%258F%25AA%25E6%259C%2589%25E5%25A4%2596%25E5%25A5%2597%2529001__99241.1321621770.1280.1280.jpg)

I'd start by taking off all the obviously modern extras--the trench coat shoulder flap, the tabs on the sleeves, etc--and see what the real shape of the coat underneath looks like. It might be harder than it looks; sometimes those industrial machine stitches can be a real bear to remove. Invest in a good seam ripper!

Save all those extra bits--there may be enough fabric in there to make into cuffs and pocket flaps.

The good news--the buttons/buttonholes are decorative, and these coats aren't intended to close in front (giving you more extra fabric to play with).

***
I know there are folks who are VERY SKILLED at remaking RTW--but I am totally not one of them! LOL I *always* find it easier to start from scratch and just make what I want, and am amazed by some of the transformations people are able to pull off! Every year Pattern Review hosts a Refashioning/Repurposing contest (http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/ContestGallery.pl?ContestID=168), and some of the projects are mind-boggling. (And, alas, some of them are a hot mess. So it definitely requires a particular skill set!)

This is COMPLETELY THE WRONG GENRE (women's mundane clothing!), but I found an interesting blog post on refashioning coats (http://tatertotsandjello.com/2011/10/14-easy-ways-to-refashion-a-winter-coat-tutorial.html). You may be able to get some good ideas from what she's done. I'm sure there are some cosplayers out there who have done EXACTLY what you want to do--but so far I haven't found the right search terms to track them down.  :D

Good luck!!
Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: gem on January 23, 2013, 11:54:53 AM
Oops--missed your update; sorry!

I think we've all been in the position of cobbling together last-minute makeshift foul-weather gear. Good luck with whatever you come up with!
Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: Jon Hanslow on January 23, 2013, 12:00:36 PM
Haha, no worries.

Hell, if I end up liking it enough, I'll keep it for winter use since my events are picking up, and I think my custom made one I'll only want for "real" events....if that makes any sense?
Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: isabelladangelo on January 23, 2013, 12:43:52 PM
This is why you ask before you buy.   ;D  I would have just gotten some fleece at Joanns with a 50% coupon, cut out a couple of trapezoids, add sleeves, and had a decent dutch cloak (late 16th into the very early 18th C) that would keep you quite warm. 

However, since you've already spent the money...You'll need to tear this thing apart.   This means a lot of time and a lot of energy.  You'll want to rip it apart at every single seam.  You literally need to re build it to get the shape and therefore look you want.   
Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: Butch on January 23, 2013, 06:58:51 PM
Quick fix for the weekend?  I'd kinda follow the pic from Gem as an idea.  Just a coat to wear that you would not actually close.  Put on the coat, have someone else use a yardstick (or some straightedge) and some tailors chalk and draw the vertical lines for the opening.  I would just make the neck a flat opening with no collar.  Cut along the lines you drew.  I'd probably run a piece of bias tape along the cut down opening and (collarless) neckhole to close off the edge.  With the leftover cuttings, I'd make four (4) pocket flaps.  Attach bias tape for contrast.  2 for the front of the jacket, and 2 for the cuffs.  The cuff flaps would be placed vertically, like a "mariner's cuff".  Buttons would be your biggest challenge.  You could just put the front buttons down one side, with the stitched holes down the other.  The pocket flaps would be sewn down, and the buttons and holes non-functioning.

Good luck!  Get started right away, it's already Wednesday!
Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: Butch on January 24, 2013, 07:18:11 AM
Also, once you draw the new front and neck opening with chalk, stitch along that line.  Put the coat back on before you cut it to be sure that's where you want the edge to be.  Then, when you cut, cut just OUTSIDE the stitching line; that way the coat will still be intact when you put the bias tape on.

Second, just cut off the stuff you don't want.  You're in a bit of a rush, so you can open up the seams later.

Finally, consider putting two or three buttons on the rear for decoration.  Kinda at the base of the spine.  It will be a nice touch.

Good luck!
Title: Newest Project...
Post by: Jon Hanslow on January 24, 2013, 10:35:06 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/25/ubeze5up.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/25/4udyjy5e.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/25/sy6usynu.jpg)

And there we have it, ladies and gentleman. More detailed photos will be posted later but I wanted to show it you all. :)

What do you think?
Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: Gauwyn of Bracknell on January 25, 2013, 05:51:58 AM
I think you have done well, mate!
Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: gem on January 25, 2013, 07:39:06 AM
Oh, WELL DONE! Huzzah!!

Get some photos of you wearing it this weekend!
Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: Rowan MacD on January 25, 2013, 08:01:55 AM
 Nice Job! 
Title: Newest Project...
Post by: Jon Hanslow on January 25, 2013, 08:34:37 AM
Thankee all!!!
Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: Butch on January 25, 2013, 04:56:55 PM
Cool!  And done well before the weekend!  Good job!
Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: Pinn on January 26, 2013, 07:47:19 AM
Well Done
Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: NicoleBridget on January 26, 2013, 09:57:18 PM
That's quite a victory, especially considering what a challenge this project must have been.  It looks great, hope you're having fun wearing it!
Title: Newest Project...
Post by: Jon Hanslow on January 26, 2013, 11:36:46 PM
Oh my. What a night it was. I'll post photos as I get them :D
Title: Newest Project...
Post by: Jon Hanslow on January 27, 2013, 07:46:08 AM
Me mate, Lionel Wafer and meself after our fire comedy show last night;

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/27/amyzu6ah.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/27/9uhesemu.jpg) for some reason, they wanted a photo of our backsides ;)
Title: Re: Newest Project...
Post by: mollymishap on January 27, 2013, 07:42:48 PM
LOL!  You look good, had fun & were warm to boot (and I'm not talking about the fire).  Good job!
Title: Newest Project...
Post by: Jon Hanslow on January 29, 2013, 02:18:54 PM
Took a few more photos today after I got home. I'll post em up in a bit ;)