I'm starting to make my garb for my first festival as a vendor, and have a few questions about fabric. So far, I have a few pieces of medium weight linen, and am considering purchasing some lighter weight stuff for hot days. Is the 3.5 oz. handkerchief linen too light? Is it see-through? I'm an artist/vendor, not a cast member, so I don't think complete historical accuracy is quite as important. I look TERRIBLE in white, so am thinking of a colored chemise (soft blue, perhaps) with a sideless surcoat or apron over it. I'm also looking at cotehardies and partlets. I do not want to wear a corset of any type. Having anything tight on me really makes me suffer in the heat, so I want loose and light clothing.
So far I've been looking at 100% linen. Are the blends as comfortable? If so, is cotton or rayon the better blend?
For what its worth, I love the soft, natural look of linen on me. If blends get too smooth looking I probably wouldn't care for them as much. :)
My first festival is in an Elizabethan setting, though my understanding is that vendors are not held to the same standard of accuracy as cast members, and my artwork is fantasy-oriented.
Thanks,
Karen.
GFo for pure linen if you can. Cream or unbleached rather than white is best anyway. And for the gown, why not go for the Mock Kirtle look? I designed these to look OK but be worn over modern undies:
(http://assets.burdastyle.com/project_images/assets/000/215/765/DSCF0074_large.jpg?1312450058) (http://assets.burdastyle.com/project_images/assets/000/201/167/DSCF0249_large.jpg?1307434907)
The sleeves have buttons up the openings and are detatchable: they just hook on. You could make a simpler version of the shirt without the lace.
Fabrics-store.com's 3.5 oz linen is perfect for a chemise. But I think it's probably too light for an outer garment. Their 5.3 oz linen is ideal for that. You can see a couple of the dresses I've made from it here (http://elizabethcbunce.wordpress.com/historical-costuming/the-botticelli-dress/) and here (http://elizabethcbunce.wordpress.com/historical-costuming/16th-century-middles/italian-working-class-ensemble/). My hankyweight chemise is here (http://elizabethcbunce.wordpress.com/historical-costuming/18th-century-middle-class-ensemble/shift-undergarments/)--and you can see that it is pretty sheer (obviously it'll be a little more sheer in white, but I think the colors are still pretty airy for outerwear).
I also like their cotton-linen blend. It's a little bit lighter in weight than the 5.3 oz, but still comparable in terms of how sturdy it feels as you're wearing it. I find that it wrinkles less and is the *teensiest* bit less soft than the 100% linen. I've used it for shirts for Milord and his dad, and for skirts for myself: Krista natural (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/23241773/394147242.jpg), and black (http://elizabethcbunce.wordpress.com/historical-costuming/16th-century-middles/).
They do free swatches, if you want to feel the fabric before you buy it. I'm just about to order some 3.5 oz "dried herb" for a new fantasy chemise.
Have fun!
Awesome info! Fabrics-store.com is where I'm looking, and I happen to have the Dutch blue 3.5 oz. linen and the Meadow 4.2 oz. linen/cotton blend it my cart right now, waiting on a final decision on colors and yardage requirements. Looks like I'm on the right track for at least one outfit. I'd like to have at least two complete ensembles to start with, in case my outfit gets damaged or stained on the first day, so that I don't have to do laundry or repairs before second day.
More ideas on styles are more than welcome. I'm a little overweight and have had a bilateral mastectomy, and am self conscious about being so much smaller on top than bottom. I'm trying to figure out ways to mask that without wearing falsies (which I stubbornly refuse to do). Some folks had some good ideas in another thread from the fall. An English overcoat was mentioned, which I really like for days that aren't too hot. If I made a sideless surcoat, would the lighter weight linen/cotton be good for that do you think? Or would I have to go a little heavier? I have a gorgeous piece of linen that I bought a few years ago for the Adrian Empire (similar to the SCA) and never used. I don't know what weight it is, but its incredibly soft. I love the feel of it, and have dithered what to do with it. I love it so much, and haven't seen its like since, that I'm hesitant to cut into it until I'm really certain I'll love it. It has a VERY soft drape and the blackish stripes are about an inch apart. Suggestions for the best use of it are more than welcome. I'm told that I might have enough to make two things, but I'll have to measure it again. I know its wide, probably 60" or so.
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b85/GreyhoundMama/stripedlinen_zps3c40d9da.jpg)
Thanks!!! :)
Wow, that is super pretty! Now, what it's telling ME it wants to be ;D is a Florentine turban (http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/diaries/FL_Turban.html):
(http://uploads1.wikipaintings.org/images/andrea-del-sarto/lucrezia-di-baccio-del-fede-the-artist-s-wife-1514.jpg!Blog.jpg)
For your sideless surcoat, I'd go with the lighter weight linen for the undergown and the heavier linen for the surcoat--but this is a garment I have never made, and I'm sorta wondering if too much of the undergown might be on display (I might personally be uncomfortable having that much of my waist/hip visible in such lightweight fabric, and might consider doing the undergown in a slightly heavier weight.) YMMV! But if it's the heat factor you're worried about, both the cotton/linen and the medium weight linen are VERY heat-friendly fabrics. The two dresses I posted are my hot weather go-to costumes, and our fair season regularly has days in the 90s, with 90% humidity.
Really, just order the swatches--ask for samples of the colors you're interested in in the various weights, and compare them! They send them pretty quickly.
(Also, two other styles that are similar to the surcoat ensemble you might consider are a Viking apron dress (https://www.google.com/search?q=eowyn+costume&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=4Nj&tbo=d&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=-JMOUZ7UFMSRygH2uoGICQ&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAA&biw=1067&bih=688#hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=6Nj&tbo=d&rls=org.mozilla:en-US%3Aofficial&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=viking+apron+gown&oq=viking+apron+gown&gs_l=img.3...20206.24186.0.24361.25.17.4.4.4.0.194.1613.12j5.17.0...0.0...1c.1.2.img.d94c0s9H8p0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bvm=bv.41867550,d.aWc&fp=d263468c05e96273&biw=1067&bih=688) and a fantasy Eowyn-type ensemble (https://www.google.com/search?q=eowyn+costume&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=4Nj&tbo=d&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=-JMOUZ7UFMSRygH2uoGICQ&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAA&biw=1067&bih=688#imgrc=Ryf_HBNTttocsM%3A%3BMovw6csgyczBjM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.elfwood.com%252Fart%252Fm%252Fo%252Fmorwenna13%252Feowyn_costume_design_colored.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.elfwood.com%252F~morwenna13%252FEowyn-Costume-Design.3059451.html%3B502%3B700). 'Cause you'll be there all season and you need more garb! ;))
And now I'm wondering what I might have to offer you in trade for some of your striped linen. ;D LOL
Oooh, love the viking and the eowyn outfits. :) And a turban? Yes, this linen would be perfect for that! I was wondering, too, if my underpants might show through the sides of a sideless surcoat. I know I've tried one on at an SCA member's house and I might have decided it wasn't a good look for me, but I really can't remember. She loaned me a mid-eastern outfit for an event and I loved it, but I don't think I've seen that kind of look at a ren faire. And here I am in her garb ...
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b85/GreyhoundMama/sca1cropped_zpsc0c56080.jpg)
I love that!! You look fabulous, and can I say how much I love your hair?!
I know things vary from fair to fair, but at KCRF, it's really anything goes as far as the merchants are concerned--and you would totally fit right in in that ensemble!
Thanks gem!!! Unfortunately, this outfit was borrowed. But I found it very comfortable and flexible. There was another layer that I wasn't wearing in this photo. It consisted of wide pants, and at least three or four layers, with the striped outer coat on the outside. Wonderfully flexible. She made the inner layers out of gauze, but I'd prefer linen. Perhaps I'll ask to borrow it again and trace them out to make patterns.
And thanks about my hair. :)
http://isabelladangelo.webs.com/turkishcoat.htm (http://isabelladangelo.webs.com/turkishcoat.htm)
Patterns and an explanation of the Turkish style as worn in Italy during the 16th Century.
:-)
Sheer linen was very much worn for chemises. Heavier stuff was for coats/bodices/dresses/ect.
Oooh, I like the Turkish styles. I can see that I'm going to need a special closet to fit all my future garb!!! ;D
Or a room...
LOL!!! ;D
Quote from: GryffinSong on February 05, 2013, 08:20:56 PM
LOL!!! ;D
you laugh---I have two rooms mostly full of garb and accessories.
One thing about linen. Be sure your seams are well battened down. I can't think of the technical term. Because even hand washing can make linen come unraveled at the seams.
Do french-seams help with the fraying of linen? In years past I bought linen skirts with lace lining the top edge of the hem, but not the side seams.
Quote from: DonaCatalina on February 06, 2013, 04:43:27 AM
Quote from: GryffinSong on February 05, 2013, 08:20:56 PM
LOL!!! ;D
you laugh---I have two rooms mostly full of garb and accessories.
One thing about linen. Be sure your seams are well battened down. I can't think of the technical term. Because even hand washing can make linen come unraveled at the seams.
I laugh again! LOL. But I'm also VERY jealous!!!
I know what you mean. French seams are probably what you're thinking of. Sew the seam wrong sides together, then turn right sides together and sew again, so that the raw edges are completely contained. On tents they top sew them twice and flat, called, I think, double flat-felled seams. Though on garb one wouldn't want the double top stitching, its pretty much guaranteed to never come out (That's what they do on blue jeans). On pillow cases I leave the seam sticking into the pillow case (French seam). But very similar techniques and both very good for wayward fabric. Thank you for mentioning that because I wouldn't have thought of it on my own. I have a pair of gypsy pants that I bought for cheap and the seams in the rear came out right away because not only didn't she contain her seams, but she snipped the corners, making it basically an accident waiting to happen!!! Unfortunately, even if I felt like fixing them, they're a contemporary tie-die, so not at all period.
Another question. Normally I would wash in warm (the way I intend to wash it). I seem to recall someone suggesting that I wash in hot and/or wash the linen several times prior to cutting and sewing, to make very certain that its done all its shrinking. Any suggestions?
My first linen arrived today, and is actually a 65/45 linen/cotton blend. I'm washing it now in warm water and plan to dry on my normal dryer settings. Just wondering if I should do more.
I'm very excited, by the way, because this color (a soft blue) looks great alongside the teal linen that I already have. :)
Thanks! :)
I wash/dry hot/high three times to make 100% sure it's done shrinking/bleeding. The other huge benefit to this is that it makes the linen a lot less wrinkle-prone. And softer than you thought possible. :b
The only time I didn't do this was with the linen damask for my corset, and that's because after the first wash, it started to pill--which I have never, ever had linen do on me before! It scared me, so I called it quits... and I've never had to wash the corset, anyway.
Awesome, thanks! Through the dryer it goes, and then back into the washer for wash #2. :)
For linen/cotton - called fustian in period- just wash once. The cotton will prevent it from shrinking too much. Rather than doing anything too crazy with the seams, just cut out the pieces, roll the edges, and then sew up the pieces together. This might mean you have to make the seam allowance a bit bigger but it also makes it WAY easier should you need to take the garment apart or change it later on.
I tend to use felled seams in linen. They lie nice and flat and are very strong and self finishing.
I have half a house full of sewing kit, and am rapidly growing a room full of costumes.
Thanks. :)
I'm not liking the feel of the linen/cotton as well as pure linen. Live and learn. It didn't really soften up in the wash. I did dig up a shirt I'd found at a thrift store a few years ago. It was a woman's oversized shirt. I removed all the pockets, buttons and button holes, added some trim, and am going to sew up the center front to make it a simple tunic/shirt. It turns out that its linen/rayon and it feels AWESOME.
So, for anyone wondering which blends to use, I recommend pure linen or linen/rayon for comfort and softness. Of course this is a very limited sample size, so I don't know if it can be extrapolated to all fabric brands.
Quote from: isabelladangelo on February 06, 2013, 05:20:24 PM
Rather than doing anything too crazy with the seams, just cut out the pieces, roll the edges, and then sew up the pieces together.
And the Solving All stonebiscuit's Problems In One Sentence Award goes to...
Quote from: stonebiscuit on February 07, 2013, 09:29:17 PM
Quote from: isabelladangelo on February 06, 2013, 05:20:24 PM
Rather than doing anything too crazy with the seams, just cut out the pieces, roll the edges, and then sew up the pieces together.
And the Solving All stonebiscuit's Problems In One Sentence Award goes to...
It's what they did in period. :-) Well, you need to sew down the rolled edges and then just sew on the very edge of the rolled edge using a whip stitch to be truly period. I've done a couple of handsewn garments like that. If I remember, I'll take some pictures tonight. The fun thing about the chemise I did like this, is that I used linen thread and that thing will never come apart without one heck of a seam ripper. I throw it in the washing machine and the dryer without any issues. It's worn a lot better than any of my machine sewn pieces.
Pictures would definitely help me. I'm very visual, and am not quite getting it. ???
I'm with Gryf! I'm not sure what you mean by "roll the edges."
....That said, I have a gazillion things made with linen, and the only thing I ever finished the seams on was a shirt I made for Milord. I've never had issues with fraying or seams coming apart. I wonder if part of this is the heavy pre-shrinking I do before I sew...
I also have a chemise I sewed entirely by hand (French seams), and Isabella's right--those stitches aren't going ANYWHERE. LOL
***
Gryffin, give your linen/cotton shirt some time. The cotton definitely adds some crispness that might take some time to appreciate! Milord actually prefers the blend; I think he finds it feels a little more substantial (he's a Beefy-T guy IRL)... but I definitely know what you mean about the difference between the airy & cuddly hanky linen, vs the blend!
(Oh, now I'm wondering... did you actually sew it up yet? Or just do the pre-wash? Do you have enough for a skirt or accessories like an apron? LOTS you can do with this, if you don't want it right up against your skin!!)
I haven't cut into it yet. I'd wanted it as an under dress, but yes, I'm thinking over apron or skirt is the best use of it. My mother is not into ren, but wants to come a few times. We'll probably make a simple skirt out of it for her. I have six yards, so there'll be enough for several items.
Yeah, I'll give the fabric a chance. My skin is pretty sensitive, though, especially over my chest scars, so I need something soft up there, at least for the inner layer. Perhaps as a second layer on cooler days it'll work out well.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5020/5472125215_aef8e823f0.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jubileel/5472125215/)
015 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jubileel/5472125215/#) by jubileel_insaneone (http://www.flickr.com/people/jubileel/), on Flickr
Not the best picture but this is the gusset of my chemise before I added it to the main body. You can see each edge is rolled and sew down. I then whip stitched the pieces together to form the seams.
Oh, I think I see. So the only thing holding the two pieces of fabric together are the whip stitches. The other stitches are just to secure the raw edges?
The raw edges are rolled under. They are completely encased inside the fabric rolled edge. That edge is sewn down. Then, I whip stitched the edges together. I've done it where I just sew the rolled edges with a machine together and it works fine as well.
Thanks, I've got it. :)