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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: Lady Kaalyn on February 05, 2013, 02:04:08 PM

Title: Need Assistance
Post by: Lady Kaalyn on February 05, 2013, 02:04:08 PM
I am so so sewer and am looking for an easy project to get me started.  I have made a peasant blouse to go under my corsett but am looking for something a bit more creative.  Can anyone recommend a simple plus size pattern that would be a good starting point and easy to make.  Or if any of you sewers near Dallas are willing to give me a basic lesson in sewing I would greatly appreciate it. 



Thanks
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: Dinobabe on February 05, 2013, 02:11:29 PM
You can never have too many bloomers (or harem pants is this case)!
Choose a double sided fabric and you have two pants for the sew of one.

http://www.simplicity.com/p-2230-costumes.aspx (http://www.simplicity.com/p-2230-costumes.aspx)

Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: isabelladangelo on February 05, 2013, 03:08:16 PM
Petticoats or skirts are always necessary and super simple.  Just take 4 yards of fabric.  Cut off a 3" strip from one end so you get a 3" x 45" strip.   That strip is now your waistband.  Pleat the rest of the fabric to the waistband, sew up the one seam to the point you can still get in it (typically 8" from the top) and you have...a skirt!
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: gem on February 05, 2013, 04:39:30 PM
Well met, Kaelyn!

Can you tell us a little more about the sorts of things you're interested in making--what you have in mind that might be "more creative" than what you've already made?

Isabella's suggestion of a skirt is really good, and last season my favorite new ensemble was "just" a skirt and smock to go with my corset, but it looks like this (http://elizabethcbunce.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/new-middles-e1350593857740.jpg?w=500). :) You can get pretty creative with good fabric and embellishment! I made this particular skirt by cartridge pleating 4 yards of black linen to a waistband (similar to the method Isabella describes), but since you're a new seamstress, you might benefit from working with a pattern. (I think it's good to be able to do both.) Did your peasant blouse pattern come with a skirt, too? My favorite skirt pattern is out of print now, but something like Simplicity 3623 (http://www.simplicity.com/p-1943-costumes.aspx#t-0) has a number of basic pieces you can work with.

Hats and bags make quick projects that don't require any fitting, and you can play with fabric and embellishments. We have a thread right now for easy, quick projects here (http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php/topic,18952.0.html); there might be some ideas you can use!
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: GryffinSong on February 05, 2013, 06:58:37 PM
I LOVE harem pants. Haven't made any yet, but they're definitely on my to-do list. I'm thinking that if they're worn with a simple Turkish coat (also fairly easy to make I think) it makes a nice change from the typical outfit.
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: Wickedvox on February 05, 2013, 07:05:48 PM
Greetings Lady Kaalyn! All of the suggestions are good ones. I particularly back Isabella's skirt idea. Also, aprons are just a rectangle with a waist tie! If you're looking for head wear, cauls are just a circle with a band.

I made the Simplicity 2230 as a beginner and it is *so* super easy. You'll want to make ten pair! You can shorten them if you like. Also, the skirt for that pattern is easy, but uses a lot of material--not good if you're on a tight budget. The blouse is also easy and *very* comfortable.

There is always confusion and frustration when starting out, so don't hesitate to ask. Everyone here is *very* generous with tips, tricks, and helpful advice.  :) And probably all of us have made any of the big three costume patterns!  :D Good luck! And pics! We want pics!
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: GryffinSong on February 05, 2013, 07:38:09 PM
A search on simplicity 2230 brings up a blouse for me ... any pointer to the exact pattern you're talking about? I'm in a similar boat to Lady Kaalyn, although I know how to sew. I'm wanting simple ideas to get my garb closet started, so am following this discussion closely.
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: gem on February 05, 2013, 07:48:03 PM
I think this is the pattern they mean:
Quote from: Dinobabe on February 05, 2013, 02:11:29 PM
http://www.simplicity.com/p-2230-costumes.aspx (http://www.simplicity.com/p-2230-costumes.aspx)
The link says 2230 (I don't know why!), but the actual pattern number is 5359.

HTH!
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: GryffinSong on February 05, 2013, 08:24:46 PM
Quote from: gem on February 05, 2013, 07:48:03 PM
I think this is the pattern they mean:
Quote from: Dinobabe on February 05, 2013, 02:11:29 PM
http://www.simplicity.com/p-2230-costumes.aspx (http://www.simplicity.com/p-2230-costumes.aspx)
The link says 2230 (I don't know why!), but the actual pattern number is 5359.

HTH!

Awesome. Will pick it up next time I'm out. Thanks. :)
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: Butch on February 06, 2013, 10:16:09 PM
The 4059 doublet is pretty easy for mens garb, if you wanna experiment for someone else!
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: GryffinSong on February 07, 2013, 10:53:41 AM
Quote from: Butch on February 06, 2013, 10:16:09 PM
The 4059 doublet is pretty easy for mens garb, if you wanna experiment for someone else!

Ooh, I like that. I might make it for myself, for days when I want to be an archer in the SCA. I'm told there were a fair number of women who dressed like men, so gender doesn't necessarily have to match outfit. Might be fun to adapt that for steampunk events too. I'm going to a steampunk ball to benefit Multiple Sclerosis research, which has me learning about that kind of costuming. Not sure its my thing, but I have several people in my life with MS, so I may attend this ball annually. Will need garb. ;)

edited to add: Joann Fabrics is having a sale from February 15-18. Their Simplicity patterns will be 5 for $5 ... a good time to stock up.
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: gem on February 07, 2013, 12:10:31 PM
A lot of us here--me included!--have made S4059. It is a great pattern. If I make the doublet again, I will flatline it with canvas. The one I made my FIL (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/24182181/403876817.jpg) last summer looks nice, but I wish it had the solidity of the garb I've made myself.

That said, I'd think twice before trying any of the pieces *for myself* again. It's very much drafted for a male body, and even sizing all the way down to the XS, I still had significant size issues with the shirt (my embroidered smock (http://elizabethcbunce.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/brown-embroidered-smock-e1350593923640.jpg?w=500&h=632)). For reference, I generally take a pattern size 12-14 in the Big 4, so I'm not really an extra small person! YMMV, but some of the things to look out for when adapting men's patterns: Length of sleeves, width of shoulders, room in the hips, scale of details like collars/cuffs/etc. At a huge generalization, if you find that men's ready-to-wear mundane clothing fits you OK, then you might have good luck with a men's (or unisex) pattern.

All that aside, though, I am DELIGHTED with the pieces I've made from that pattern; they gave *exactly* the results I was looking for--which is saying a lot!

***
Kaalyn, are you still with us? Are we giving you any information or ideas you can use? Looking back at your first post, I see that you did ask about plus-size patterns... which is an area I'm afraid I don't know a lot about at the moment. I know we've had a few threads in the past about that, though, so I will see what I can dig up!
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: GryffinSong on February 07, 2013, 12:24:53 PM
Quote from: gem on February 07, 2013, 12:10:31 PM
...If I make the doublet again, I will flatline it with canvas...

What does "flatline" mean? Thanks. :)
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: Lady Kaalyn on February 07, 2013, 01:15:42 PM
yes I'm still with you.  I have simplicity 2596 and 3809.  I don't remember which one but i love the blouse pattern in it, I have made a white blouse from it and frankinpatterned it to a chemise.  I find my issue is I start a pattern that's not so simple and then get so confused on what to do next.  I can make a basic skirt and shirt and have done so many times...  I will have to post some what i have done.   but I would like to move on to a bit more complex things like a basic corset. 
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: skitter on February 07, 2013, 01:22:48 PM
I'm in Dallas, and could probably help you muddle through . . . I'm also interested in making a corset!  I'm considering taking a class, actually (but the minimum number of students for it is 2, and I can't convince my one other sewing friend to take it with me).

Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: Lady Kaalyn on February 07, 2013, 01:37:40 PM
Where is the class and when. im def interested.
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: skitter on February 07, 2013, 03:22:54 PM
Fabrique in Plano (Bush Turnpike at Coit); they don't have a set schedule but will set something up if they have enough people.

Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: Lady Kaalyn on February 07, 2013, 03:50:50 PM
I would love to do it.  How fast could they set something up.  I am going like crazy the next three weekends with family and SWFF.  But could do it one afternoon, I so want a new corset, lol. 

If your schedule is open and they are agreeable,  I get off work at 3:30 and I work Down Town Dallas and could make it there around 4pm any weekday except maybe Fridays (Dallas traffic seemes to multiply on Fridays).   

If that would not work I'm not open until the first weekend of march,  I am attending the Job fair at Scarby the next weekend, on march 9Th but have no plans for sunday the 10Th. 

If you could possible set it up and let me know costs I would greatly appreciate it. 
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: Lady Kaalyn on February 25, 2013, 08:42:45 AM
5 days till our class in corset making.  ;D  Wore my old corset to SWFF this weekend and found that the metal stays in it have become seriously warped.  I ended up with some very nasty bruises on my waist where they just didn't sit right.  So I am in def need of this class.  Skitter, since you have already taken a class there do you recommend I bring the fabric that i want to use with me?  What do you usually do?
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: skitter on February 25, 2013, 10:37:58 AM
When I reserved my spot, I asked if I should bring the pattern I'm thinking of using, or fabric, etc, and the lady I talked to said no, just my machine if I have one, and that they will supply everything we need.  I supsect a zipper or cording foot will come in handy.

Though my attitude is always that it can't hurt to bring it, just in case!  If nothing else, perhaps the instructor can answer any questions you have with respect to your fabric. 

I think this is going to be a techniques class with maybe small mock-up pieces, rather than a "leave with a finished corset" kind of class (I don't know how it could possibly be the latter in a 2-hour class. 

So sorry to hear about the bruises!!  Youch!
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: Lady Kaalyn on February 25, 2013, 10:40:06 AM
ok you are just confirming what i thought.  it will be a mock up class.  I am super excited.  and cannot wait for sat.
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: RowenD on February 25, 2013, 10:43:46 AM
Quote from: GryffinSong on February 07, 2013, 12:24:53 PM
Quote from: gem on February 07, 2013, 12:10:31 PM
...If I make the doublet again, I will flatline it with canvas...

What does "flatline" mean? Thanks. :)
I didn't see an answer to this one....
  It just means to make an 'extra' layer for the garment, between the outer fashion fabric and the inner lining.  The technique is generally used to add more body to the finished garment. 
  I find it useful to use this extra layer as a sort of 'skeleton' in side of bodices-to attach the interlining and/or boning to,  so as to not have seams or distortion showing on the outside of the garment or the lining.
   It's not hard to do: Just cut an extra set of outer or lining pattern pieces (not the interfacing ones) and sandwich them so that your garment has 3 layers, instead of two.
   This  interlining layer is sewn flat (thus the term 'flatlining') to the inside of the outer layer, just match up the edges and baste. 
  Once you attach the flatlining, you treat the flatlined outer fabric as a single unit,  attaching the lining as per instructions, and turning the garment right side out, etc.   
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: GryffinSong on February 25, 2013, 03:33:54 PM
Thank you, RowenD, now I get it. :)
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: DonaCatalina on February 27, 2013, 04:58:01 AM
The big Joann's in Dallas , on Preston? offers group sewing classes regularly. I could probably help you a little; but time is short between now and fair season.
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: Lady Kaalyn on March 04, 2013, 12:02:44 PM
I have also posted this in "in progress projects" I had such fun meeting everyone at the class sat.

  Here is my current project.  I took a corset making class on Saturday and decided to go full steam ahead. (im a bit out of my head I know lol) I decided to use material that I already had and I found a really pretty purple twill material that I had a nice piece of scrap of and then I had some cheap brown fabric that I decided to use that way if I mess up it's not a great loss. 

Here is the pattern and all my notes from the class.
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b585/jbedna01/temporary_zps104b05f9.jpg)
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b585/jbedna01/temporary_zps1600b41b.jpg)

I am severely lacking on space so I used my bed to help me organize.  My sewing machine is actually on a tv tray table. 
I laid out my pattern and got everything ready to start cutting. (I have purchased a rotary cutter.  After using one in the class I decided I must have one)
Half way through I realized I really needed some pattern weights so I made some using some scrap material and rice.   I may make some more with actual weights and ribbon. 
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b585/jbedna01/temporary_zps2b4b1099.jpg)
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b585/jbedna01/temporary_zpsab487f13.jpg)

So after all of that here is what I have done so far.  I prolly should not have used such a shiny material for  the outer layer for my first corset but I was just using what I had.  I am really loving the purple twill that I used it is very lovely.  I found that I am lacking enough boning to do my corset so I am on hold until I can make it to the fabric store.  I have also decided that I want a bias tape maker and will pick one up while I'm out. 
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b585/jbedna01/temporary_zps9c4d5da6.jpg)
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b585/jbedna01/temporary_zpsff08e003.jpg)
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: skitter on March 04, 2013, 02:21:52 PM
Wow, hooray for you going straight home from class and diving in headfirst!  I thought the class was really good (for anyone else in the Dallas area, it was at Fabrique in Plano).

My bag of goodies that I bought is still sitting in my studio, unopened.

Anyway, I had a great time, and it was wonderful to meet you! 

Karen and I had talked about doing a group order for supplies from that corsetmaking website if you're interested!
Title: Re: Need Assistance
Post by: Lady Kaalyn on March 04, 2013, 03:35:25 PM
ive been looking at it all weekend.  they have a lacing boning that has really peaked my intrest.  It gives extra support for when you lace up.  i may order some.  there is so much on there i want.  i want to order a busk just to practice on bc i thing they would be a useful.

I really loved the class and would love to take more classes there.  I learned so much and it was a blast.  just wish it was closer to me.