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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: LadyStitch on March 08, 2013, 03:10:46 PM

Title: Plus size dress block/ shaper
Post by: LadyStitch on March 08, 2013, 03:10:46 PM
I am trying to find a pattern for a plus size dress block.  McCalls and Butterick make one but it only goes up to a size 22 (42" bust). The girl I need to make a really simple 1400's peasant  dress for is a 53" bust, 50" waist, 56" hip! I've got patterns for Guys that large but not girls.

A few years ago I was given a bunch of large size patterns but I never work with actresses/ customers over a size 22, so I donated all the patters that were 22W and larger.  I just didn't think I would ever need a dress pattern THAT large. Help!
Title: Re: Plus size dress block/ shaper
Post by: gem on March 08, 2013, 04:09:40 PM
Renaissance Tailor has directions for basic pattern drafting (http://www.renaissancetailor.com/demos_patterndraft.htm) that might get you started. It's all based on measurements.

Another good resource is Barbara Deckert (http://www.barbaradeckertcouture.com/ofinterestLINKS.html), author of a book called Sewing for Plus Sizes, which includes excellent instructions on pattern grading. She also teaches a highly-recommended Craftsy class on pattern fitting for plus sizes. You might be able to find something useful on her website.
Title: Re: Plus size dress block/ shaper
Post by: LadyStitch on March 12, 2013, 03:18:55 PM
I know how to upsize a pattern, that isn't the problem.  I was just hoping that someone had a good base block that I could start off of with out having to upsize so much.  My tutor recomended never upgrading more than 2 sizes on any one pattern if you can help it.  More than that and you are starting to skew the sizing.   Thankfully this dress is so basic it wasn't difficult but worth asking about.
Title: Re: Plus size dress block/ shaper
Post by: theatrekat on March 12, 2013, 08:11:07 PM
I don't know if this will help, but if you have access to The Costume Technicians Handbook there are instructions on how to build a basic block from an actor's measurements.

-kat
Title: Re: Plus size dress block/ shaper
Post by: Cilean on March 13, 2013, 06:59:27 PM

Hi!

So here is a great step by step on making a gown of that nature for any size person:
http://cottesimple.com/ (http://cottesimple.com/), check out and see if this is something you think would work.

Cilean

Title: Re: Plus size dress block/ shaper
Post by: Fireflicker on March 13, 2013, 08:55:53 PM
I have The Costume Technicians Handbook, so if you'd like the instructions I can either type them up/scan them and send them to you. I just made a body block off it and it worked very nicely (:
Title: Re: Plus size dress block/ shaper
Post by: mollymishap on March 14, 2013, 09:35:46 AM
If you have any thrift stores nearby, it may be worthwhile to go see if there's a garment that would serve as a basic block if you pick it apart. 

That said, I know a few plus-sized ladies that complain that modern garments don't fit them well, so she may be happier with you draping/drafting the block directly onto her. 

I once had to make a bunch of men's doublets in a very short time frame, and in the end, I just draped 'em all.  None of them complained & they actually saw the kind of time it takes to make a well-fitting garment so it was a win/win situation.