Haha how's that for an attention getter?
I am building a court gown for myself, to wear at the end of the season. I understand that ladies have hips, and that is what makes everything stay up and on where it should. (hoop skirt, skirts etc.) so in light of the fact that I do NOT have hips and hope to keep the skirts on, does anyone have advice or suggestions to keep it on?
I am cartridge pleating the overskirt, so I am not opposed to connecting it to the bodice if I need to, instead of a waistband. but I can't connect ALL of the skirt layers to it... (or can i?)
I will be wearing a corset, however I am not sure if it will pull me in enough to create that place for everything to sit.
I am doing this sort of as a joke, but I want it to be beautiful as well. I want my mannerisms and character aspects to be the humerous part, not neccessarily the dress itself.
If I am posting too much, just let me know. :) I am a receptionist, so I sit here for 10 hours a day and have to entertain myself.
Get a farthingale. All Elizabethan dress, and most Henrican dress, requires a farthingale to make the skirts "poof" out. For you, if the farthingale refuses to stay up (if you have a proper pair of bodies, you'll suddenly have a defined waist and hips as well), add suspenders that will go over the pair of bodies but under the gown.
wonderful! thanks doll!
:D
You can also attach your overskirt to your bodice with hooks and eyes, which helps a WHOLE lot.And if you've never made an Elizabethan for yourself, make sure you make a tabbed version; they're so much more comfortable.
A bumroll atop of everything (stuffed solidly) will also give you the appearance of hips.
One of the Cast players at the Minnesota Renaissance Festival , male, plays the King's Mother. He does a lot of the Court Garb for the King and Queen. Talented and dresses well as a woman too. He wears all the pieces we women do from Farthingale, Corset, and Bumroll!
THis should be fun. be sure to post photos, Owen!
Late to the party, but you could also use suspenders or similar to hold your undergarments up (hoop skirts, etc) underneath your blouse/chemise. If your skirts are heavy, this can also help to keep the weight from having to be completely carried on the hips.
I like the idea of suspenders. I've thought about doing that even though I have hips to keep everything up. A bumroll to fill out the hips would be great. Attaching the skirt/overskirt to the bodice would help keep it in place. I think you could do the skirt layers together. On the Victorian dresses I have done, the skirts are sewn onto wide grosgrain ribbon and then sewn to the bodice to keep everything together. My ball gown skirt was sewn separately, but attaches with heavy duty hook and eye to the bodice to keep everything from shifting and exposing the waistband.
The reason I suggest suspenders rather than a bumroll is simple - if you truly have no hips, than a bumroll won't hold up around your waist either. Simple gravity at work!
Oswyn hunny, I know exactly what you need. I've use this on all of my men's court wear and I've used it for one of my own gowns and it's sole purpose is to keep the waistband of the skirt (or slops) at the waist and in-line with the bodice (or doublet).It eliminates the need for suspenders and is easier and more effective than hook and bars PLUS it looks damn fancy.
Here's what you do. Pound 4-6 sets of two grommets (spaced about 1"-1.5" apart) into the waistband of the skirt ((if you're slight of build you'll only want 4 as 6 will look cumbersome) if 4, place them symmetrically at SB and SF, if 6- SB(but closer to CB), at SS, and SF). Now put the skirt and bodice on (over all the appropriate undergarments) and mark where the grommets line up along the waistline of the bodice (NB- the back and side grommets will line up nicely with the waistline but depending on how deep you cut the "V" of the front of the bodice those grommets may have to appear to "float" up from the waistline to stay lined up with the waistband of the skirt. Now pound grommets into the bodice where you've marked. If you don't like the look of grommets you can thread-cover them if you want or skip grommets altogether and make hand sewn eyelets, that's your choice. Now, locate some beautiful silk(dupioni, shantung or taffeta) in a color that compliments or matches your ensemble, cut 4 or 6 bias strips of it about 3"x24"(I use 1/2" seams), sew them into tubes, press the seam open if you have a nice dowel to do so, and turn them. Also pick up some 1" grosgrain ribbon cut into strips the same length and run that through the middle of your silk strips securing them at either end. make some neat corners on either end of the strips and sew them into aiglets (bolo tips). Take your new-made ties, thread them through the grommets, pull the ends even on the outside and tie a PGB (pretty gay bow). If you're worried about the farthingale slipping too just punch your grommets through the waistband of that too, make your ties a little longer (by maybe 2"), and just catch that when you tie it all together. If you have petticoats between the farthingale and overskirt, don't grommet them but instead make a small buttonhole in the waistband that you can thread the tie trough. You want the weight-bearing grommets on the farthingale and overskirt but lighter layers like petticoats and foreparts you don't want the bulk of more grommets. Here are some pictures where you can see how the "points" or ties look. (http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/298096_10200980487576718_1257884655_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/65637_10201109978416299_1170493461_n.jpg)
As you can see in this picture I did it to the back of this skirt and doublet because I was having trouble with it staying together, especially without skirting or tabs to conceal the separation. And as you can tell in this picture I could've used points in the front as well...
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/302473_10100699452777907_1016875_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/304077_10150367179755255_1203355390_n.jpg)
My friend Stacy introduced this trick to me. He uses 5 ties, with one placed directly at CB. His ties are a little shorter than mine but that's where you can play with the look you want.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/552051_4093637152599_624060149_n.jpg)
Catch me on chat or message me (or via my blog/G+) if you have any questions! But I truly think this is the best option for you!
Thanks Cecils! that looks great and totally makes sense.
I am starting this dress this week. Thanks so much for the suggestions everyone! I'm super excited. This is my most productive faire season yet... almost completed my 3rd ensemble, and soon to start my fourth! I love having new clothes to show off.
You folks are amazing. Thanks for being so patient and wiling to share your vast expertise!
What Cecils said!
And also, being as you're concerned with lack o' hips, you could attach some simple points made from shoe laces to your corset so that your farthingale & petticoats will stay at the height you want them to be. Then do as Cecils explained for the outer layers with prettier stuff.
And DO post pics!
of course my dears! I will hopefully have some pics midway thru next week. I'm trying to get better at documenting the process as I go, but I still don't always remember to stop for pics while im in my "mode". I will get better I promise!
Remember too that Tudor type corsets (payre of bodies) aren't to nip in the waist, but to give that flat front. A male Victorian might give you some waist, but points seem to be your best bet! Stop on the Bridge (before parade starts) and say hi, won't you?
Marga