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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: Wickedvox on April 30, 2013, 07:37:18 PM

Title: Newest smock collar
Post by: Wickedvox on April 30, 2013, 07:37:18 PM
So...I've finished my first blackwork collar and cuff set, and they're really pretty.
(http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g321/TheWickedvox/CAM00337_zps30a6e9e6.jpg) (http://s1096.photobucket.com/user/TheWickedvox/media/CAM00337_zps30a6e9e6.jpg.html)
*However*...sigh...I'm not sure I'm all together happy with how the collar is sitting.
(http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g321/TheWickedvox/CAM00336_zpsa0209f08.jpg) (http://s1096.photobucket.com/user/TheWickedvox/media/CAM00336_zpsa0209f08.jpg.html)
I think the embroidery linen is too heavy for the tissue weight linen of the smock and it's pushing the top edge of the opening down. See how it kind of bows out just below it? It's kind of setting my teeth on edge. I've already had to deconstruct it once before for another reason, but I may just put my head in the oven if I have to do it again.

I think I have to do it again.

What do you think?
Title: Re: Newest smock collar
Post by: gem on April 30, 2013, 08:47:24 PM
Easy fix: Put another set of ties right there, so it doesn't have a chance to do that. :)

HUZZAH on your blackwork!! What is the edging? It looks awesome!
Title: Re: Newest smock collar
Post by: Rowan MacD on May 01, 2013, 12:58:57 PM
 ^^that^^.
Hubby's new linen shirt wants to do that too.  I moved the button/loop that was in the center down to the bottom edge and added a second button and loop to the top edge.. a little crowded (the buttons are almost edge to edge on a 1.5" band), but it looks good.
Title: Re: Newest smock collar
Post by: Wickedvox on May 01, 2013, 05:47:32 PM
See why I post here?? Brilliant and easy, thanks ladies!
The edging is the wave stitch on my imagine wave serger. I did one in black with variegated white/gold thread and it was so very pretty, but too noble for my middles. Nixed by the Village Seamstress. Such is the life of the middle class  :-\
Title: Re: Newest smock collar
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on May 02, 2013, 11:50:13 PM
Beautiful Blackwork. That is something I have not taken the time to do myself by hand.  And that edging is AWESOME!!!! I have not seen anything like that before!


Something I learned when doing Neck and Wrist bands  for Shirts/Smocks is that I cut them 3 1/2 " tall by whatever the neck and wrist measures, plus 2". That way with 5/8" seams, there's almost an extra inch of ease around. The neck and wrist ruffs lay better. I find that doing two rows of ties or loops for buttons helps with Neck and Wrist bands.

I cut my Ruff pieces 2 1/4" tall when applying Needlelaces. 2 1/2" if I do a rolled hem edge with Decorative stitching. The lengths of the ruff pieces is 6 times the neck and wrist, plus 1 1/2" for the Double Stacked Box Pleat to get the nice Figure 8.  3 times for Single Box Pleat Ruffs.Comes out consistent more or less.

(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/395390_10150601320251280_920197622_n.jpg)
Single Box Pleat Ruff

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/574856_10150796691256280_1405435016_n.jpg)
Double Box Pleat Ruff

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/403814_10150601321411280_617688669_n.jpg)
Wrist Ruff

Hope this helps for things in the future.
Title: Re: Newest smock collar
Post by: Prima on May 06, 2013, 09:53:29 AM
These are lovely ladies!  You all give me hope that this can be done!  I am currently beginning some blackwork myself in hopes that I will be able to add some to my partlet.  I've got some ideas and have been practicing on some wider? weave linen.  I am a bit nervous to actually start stitching onto my partlet though...
Title: Re: Newest smock collar
Post by: Wickedvox on May 06, 2013, 08:25:16 PM
Thanks Kathleen! I've just learned a very valuable lesson: always do a mock-up no matter *how* simple the project seems. My sleeves are almost 3 inches too short *pulling hair out!*

Prima, I felt the same way. That's why I started with cuffs and collar--they are separate pieces so you won't ruin the whole thing. Same can be said of the front opening facing. The pattern I used is a beginner pattern. It taught me the basics of blackwork without any extraneous stitches...well, the group here helped a little too ;) Here's a link to the pattern: http://www.blackworkarchives.com/bw_florbord.html (http://www.blackworkarchives.com/bw_florbord.html)

And I love me some Malcolm Reynolds ;)