OK you genius Ladies (and Lords)...I have decided to add another piece to my ensemble to change my look up a bit. I would like to add a surcoat(?) that looks pretty much exactly like the picture. Would something like the Tudor Tailor have a pattern for this? I fancy myself a novice seamstress provided I have a pattern to work with. So...I need help finding a pattern please!
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20117472/For%20Mirella/Surcoat.jpg)
Also...the picture is from a seamstress on Etsy...has anyone worked with this vendor? Is $250 a reasonable price...should I just buy a custom piece from her? Or would anyone here be willing to create this for me for less?
Opinions, help....please!
Have you checked on the Reconsturcting History website? Not great for instructions, but many patterns that are historically designed.Here is the Reconstructing Surcoat pattern. One I would like to order.
(http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/images/detailed/1/RH202frontcover.jpg) http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/rh202-loose-gowns.html (http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/rh202-loose-gowns.html)
Then Margo Anderson also has a Surcoat pattern as well. Her patterns are worth the money just for the instruction Booklet alone.
(http://www.margospatterns.com/images/ElzComfortLg.gif) http://www.margospatterns.com/Products/ElizComfrt.html (http://www.margospatterns.com/Products/ElizComfrt.html)
Hope this helps. I have no experience with the vendor on Esty. I think $250 to $325 would be a reasonable price depending on how much detail you want. Keep in mind these loose gowns take a lot of fabric, etc. This one looks okay, but I have seen better.
Lynn McMasters did one years ago for a client that is absolutely beautiful. How she did this, I would do likewise. http://lynnmcmasters.com/ (http://lynnmcmasters.com/)
Click Elizabethan Costumes, then scroll down to Elizabethan Surcoat.
If you're a novice, I agree with Lady Kathleen--Margo Anderson is the way to go. Each pattern is a sewing class in and of itself. It's the *same* class in each pattern, but the information is invaluable. I believe the Ladies Wardrobe has the surcoat pattern. And the brilliant and talented seamstesses and tailors here will be happy to help along the way :)
Hi Prima!
The Tudor Tailor does have a pattern much like this - I have not yet tried to follow any of the patterns in the book, yet, though.
I made myself a surcoat from a pattern I found in a theatrical costume book - no instructions, just the pattern, but if you've sewn something before, you may not need the instructions - it all depends on how intuitively you can work. I think mine cost me less than $50 in fabric.... so it is definatly cheaper to make your own - especially if you find fabric on sale!
Let me say this peice has a lot of different names, Spanish Ropa, Loose Gown, Dressing Gown, it comes with a bunch of names.
Mantua Maker has a great one, Alcega's pattern book has a great one as well, if you are up to scaling up and you have that book (it is reselling for $600 plus!)
http://www.mantua-maker.com/renaissance_patterns.html (http://www.mantua-maker.com/renaissance_patterns.html)
Margo Anderson's Comfort Pattern
www.MargoAnderson.com (http://www.margoanderson.com)
If you decide to make the Recontructing History Pattern? Make a Mock up- to save your sanity and please look a the sheer size of the puff sleeves, they are HUGE! Especially when above a size 14, so do make mock ups and cut them down to size. Just an FYI!
As to getting the deal for fabric, I found 2 drapes for $1.00 each, if you check around you can always find a deal if you check about!!!
Cilean
I all honesty, it's quicker and easier to draft up a pattern that fits from The Tudor Tailor or Janet Arnold than to try to follow an RH pattern! Sadly, there's a lot that should be better about them for the price, in my experience. If you are a beginner and want lots of pattern pieces and instructions, go for Margo! Her patterns do at least fit together! And you get LOTS of options and instructions! 8)
Thank you all for your wonderful help! As soon as we return from CRF I believe I will start this project. You all have given me such amazing advice...thank you! More questions to come once I start!
hopefully you haven't cut out the fabric yet!
All the Spanish Surcote is is two trapezoids sewn together at the sides with either hanging sleeves or tabs around the armscye. That really is it.
http://simbelmyne.us/elizabethan/comfort-gown/index.htm (http://simbelmyne.us/elizabethan/comfort-gown/index.htm)
Don't waste your money on a pattern. Just measure out a trapezoid, slant the shoulder area slightly (the end of the shoulder area should typically be 1" down from the center front), and...sew. The tabs are just strips of fabric.
I used the Winter and Savoy Elizabethan Surcoat 'Pattern.'
This method uses a simple shirt pattern for a yoked style surcoat. Pretty easy, for an relative beginner.
Essentially it is thus: Measure how long you want the surcoat from shoulder to floor, front and back. There will be math involved, I'm afraid... :o
Use the front of the shirt pattern, adding the desired length to this piece to for the appropriate length. Make the extension piece wedge shaped, wider toward the bottom.
Using the back of the shirt pattern, cut it off just below the armscrye, and use that as the back yoke. Again... math... ??? measure for appropriate length (adding extra seam allowance for the top pleating and hemming) and add a large (2 yards wide should be plenty) rectangle into the back of the yoke, pleating the yardage into the yoke.
I lined the front peices completely, but only the back yoke when I made mine. You may choose, depending on the fabric used, to line the entire garment.
Sew the back and front pieces together at the sides. Add your choice of collar. Viola!
....and now I want to go make another one... ::)
I had a thought last night while trying to fall asleep and wanted to run it by you all... The main part of my jacket (for lack of the correct term) is pretty darn close to what I want for the upper half of the surcoat to be. I might try to mimic this "pattern" in a mock up and add the lower skirt. Essentially remove the sleeves from this...and lengthen the front and add a pleated piece to the back panel. I could even shorten the length of the back. Thoughts?
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20117472/For%20Mirella/2013-06-04%2020.58.32.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20117472/For%20Mirella/2013-06-04%2020.58.12.jpg)
and lengthen the front and add a pleated piece to the back panel. I could even shorten the length of the back. Thoughts?
If that's what you want your Spanish surcote to be, then it isn't a Spanish surcote - it's an English fitted gown or a doublet gown, depending on the exact styling. The Spanish surcote is a loose fitting gown. Also, if you make it shorter, then you have a doublet with a peplum, a la this very late style:
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/UnknownLady40.jpg (http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/UnknownLady40.jpg)
Quote from: Cilean on June 01, 2013, 01:15:33 PM
Mantua Maker has a great one, Alcega's pattern book has a great one as well, if you are up to scaling up and you have that book (it is reselling for $600 plus!)
Cilean
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Seriously? I'm going to lock mine in the safe. wow. I had no idea.
But I would second Margo's patterns myself.