After talking about it for years, I am FINALLY replacing my everyday wench bodice (which I made seven seasons ago!). There are a lot of things about it that work well, so I'm using it as the basis for the new bodice. HOWEVER, it does have a couple of issues, and I'm not 100% sure how to correct them.
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/23865558/406871776.jpg)
The main one is the back length. As you can see in the photo, it's too long, and bunches up at my waistline. All this time, I've thought it was simply too long--but when I dug out the pattern, I found this note: "Add 1 inch to cover skirt waistband." :o
...Which actually *is* a problem--I do get a gap at the bottom of my bodices where the top of the skirt is visible (or worse, slips down). I'm intending to give the new version tabs or picadils or skirting, so that will help... but I'd actually prefer to build the solution into the fit of the bodice itself... if I knew what that solution was!
The other part of this issue is that I like the front length (even tho' it does sit a bit below my natural waist):
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17691164/334797202.jpg)
...and if I shorten the back to match, the side seams won't line up. In this photo, you can clearly see where the length needs to come up; would it be OK to have the back pattern piece arc up from the side seams to center back like the wrinkle does? Or would that be weird?
(http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/23865558/406871723.jpg)
Any other suggestions? I also need to shorten the straps and pinch out that little front neckline gape--but I can do that by draping.
Advice?
Gramercy!!
I can't wait to hear the answer to this! Mine wrinkles too, so at least you're not alone. Hope some of our clever members have ideas!
The back waistline should be curved slightly. As it is now, it's perfectly straight in the pictures. This is the reason for the pinching.
EDIT: I should add that the pinching in the back is period, however. Eleanor de Toledo (http://hathawaysofhaworth.wordpress.com/2013/01/01/eleanor-of-toledos-wardrobe-unlocked/)'s pair of bodies is straight at the bottom and shows the "wrinkles" at the waistline.
Well, Isabella, I hope we can still be friends after this, but I disagree with you on something: I don't think the bodice is bunching because the bottom hem isn't curved. I think the issue is in the total length of the thing, back and front.
Gem, am I recalling correctly that you have a "short" waist? If so, that very "look" that you like in the front (which lengthens your torso) is contributing to the problems in the back. Try taking a big pinch in at the shoulder seams to raise the whole bodice up. The armscye will be up in your pits, but check if having the edge at your natural waist on the side seam corrects some of the bunching in the back.
If it does, when you go to make a new mock-up, draw a chalk line at your natural waist from the side seams all around the back of the current bodice while wearing it. Then take it off and taper the front point going from the lowest point in the front to where your natural waist mark is on the side seams. Use the new chalk lines as a guide to making the new mock-up. This way, you'll still keep the look you like in the front while taking care of those wrinkles in the back.
Alternately, grab one of the bodices you have that fits well and compare the total length with the current bodice. That should help you figure out how much to cut off, etc.
Good luck!!!
Once you have tackled the 'too long' question (I have nothing to add to Isabeladeavgelo's comments on that), you need to tackle the gap.
One reason this happens is that your skirt is heavy and slips down from your waistline. It needs to be helped to stay up. There are two classic methods: you can either hook them together with hooks and worked loops or bars at the points where it droops (put the hooks an inch up inside the bodice and match them with the bars or loops so the don't show), or you can use points and eyelets. Where you place the eyelets is something to think about... Do you want them to show, with a bunch of bows round your waist: Or do you want them hidden?
Hidden ones will require a band round the bottom of the bodice in which to insert the eyelets, and tabs to cover them, and a corresponding row in the skirt waistband. You can then 'stitch' the bodice and skirt together with corset lacing and tie that off somewhere unobtrusive.
Ones that show can be done by stitching ribbons to the skirt waistband at the strategic places and poking them through eyelet holes in the bottom of the bodice and tying in bows. These are usually done on the waistline above tabs. These are a later fashion, usually seen from 1600 onwards.
Quote from: Kate XXXXXX on June 07, 2013, 02:59:30 AM
Ones that show can be done by stitching ribbons to the skirt waistband at the strategic places and poking them through eyelet holes in the bottom of the bodice and tying in bows. These are usually done on the waistline above tabs. These are a later fashion, usually seen from 1600 onwards.
:) Actually, you see this as early as the 1570's...in Italy.
(http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/ModaFirenze/images/AAlloriWomanToilet1575-8f71.jpg)
Quote from: mollymishap on June 06, 2013, 09:27:51 PM
Well, Isabella, I hope we can still be friends after this, but I disagree with you on something: I don't think the bodice is bunching because the bottom hem isn't curved. I think the issue is in the total length of the thing, back and front.
Lol! Don't worry about it. Although I might sic Miss Ginsie on you.
(http://u1.ipernity.com/26/49/85/16244985.e5a279da.500.jpg?r1) (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/jubileel/16244985)
Ginsie 004 (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/jubileel/16244985) par Isabella (http://www.ipernity.com/home/jubileel), on ipernity
Too bad I am not there to measure you, gem.
For the natural waistline is the narrowest part of the Torso, not where we wear our jeans, etc. Which is why many Bodices wrinkle in the back and pucker in the Front.
When I measure people fro Custom made garb, I measure from the Bottom of the neck where it meets the shoulder line to the small of the back. Less 3 to 4 inches is where the Bodice top begins should help in determining the Back length. For most Bodices lay slightly above the waist anyway if there are Picadils, tabs of come kind as to not cut into the waist per se.
Hopes the makes sense. Anda s a rule, I usually have 5/8' seam allowances.
Thanks, everyone!
Let's see, working backward:
1.) I know where my natural waist is. ;) Even if I didn't, the wrinkle in the back would make that clear. This was not an issue of incorrect measuring; just of "clever" planning that didn't work out.
2.) The bodice is going to be reversible, so I'm not sure how I'd work either hooks or ties into it. I suppose snugging up the WBs on my skirts would help, but I wouldn't think a cotton skirt would be so heavy...? (I look at a lot of garb on a lot of people at Fair, and don't see a lot of sagging skirts/waistbands outside of bodices, etc. They can't *all* be tying their skirts to their bodices.) But Isabella, that image is fantastic! Do you know the artist/title?
3.) Well, Molly--that's part of the problem. ;) I don't have anything that fits well at the moment--although in more recent efforts I seem to have conquered my shoulder strap issue (I am *very* petite in the shoulders and straps are always too long on me--part of the reason I've given up on commercial bodices!). Neither I nor Milord could get a satisfactory pinch in the test fit last night, so I popped it on my dress form... and remembered that I had to build up her shoulders to artificially lower her bust point! Gah!! ::) So I'm going to give it another try on myself later today.
There is no such thing as a reversible bodice - and that's probably a good part of your problem. The fabric is bending both ways at that point - and it also doesn't help the boning or the fabric as it will weaken both by not being able to conform to your body.
The painting was done in 1571. I can't recall the painter right now but the painting is in Moda.
Quote from: gem on June 07, 2013, 11:28:59 AM
2.) The bodice is going to be reversible, so I'm not sure how I'd work either hooks or ties into it. I suppose snugging up the WBs on my skirts would help, but I wouldn't think a cotton skirt would be so heavy...? (I look at a lot of garb on a lot of people at Fair, and don't see a lot of sagging skirts/waistbands outside of bodices, etc. They can't *all* be tying their skirts to their bodices.) But Isabella, that image is fantastic! Do you know the artist/title?
Some of the waistband issues that I have seen could be taken care of by even a small bumroll. Or even moving the hooks a little further in than you might think would be needed on the skirt waistband.
You should be able to unpick that bottom seam on the bodice, make your adjustments to the back (don't forget to adjust the sides, too, to curve up over your hips), and whipstitch that bottom opening together. I would even try folding it under (or over!) a bit first, to see where the adjustments need to be made. Perhaps your hubby could help you pin up one side?
I found that a nice tight waist on my skirt is helping with my current bodice, as lady Rosalind suggests.
I would say that you could take a bit of length off the back, and then use reversible tabs to help with the gap - the skirting on my gold bodice helps with this issue. In terms of adding points, you could always sew some very secure rings hidden within the tabs to tie to - the rings are then reversible too!