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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: Irma on June 20, 2013, 03:24:17 PM

Title: Hemd / Smock / Shift / Chemise neckline treatment
Post by: Irma on June 20, 2013, 03:24:17 PM
This is an image of a portrait of Mary of Hungary dated 1519 (at least, that's what the internet says).  What technique would reproduce the look of the neckline on the hemd?
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1013914_613827588635789_1187863788_n.jpg)
Title: Re: Hemd / Smock / Shift / Chemise neckline treatment
Post by: isabelladangelo on June 20, 2013, 05:20:09 PM
Gather the edges of the neckline and sleeves, bind with self bias tape.   It's very similar to the Italian style camica. It looks to be nothing more than a width of fabric for the front and back with sleeves attached so that they make up the shoulders as well.   
Title: Re: Hemd / Smock / Shift / Chemise neckline treatment
Post by: Irma on June 20, 2013, 05:22:13 PM
Thanks.  That was my first impression, also.  Cut the neckline square, and allow a 1 to 3 ration for the gathering?
Title: Re: Hemd / Smock / Shift / Chemise neckline treatment
Post by: isabelladangelo on June 20, 2013, 09:31:56 PM
Not exactly.  If you look at this lady's camica, her's has a square-ish neckline:

(http://acrosstheages.tripod.com/NewFolder/rencorset1.jpg)

Use http://www.feoragdubh.eastkingdom.org/Patterns/ItalianRenChemise.gif (http://www.feoragdubh.eastkingdom.org/Patterns/ItalianRenChemise.gif) for a pattern.   Except, rather than rounding the neckline, leave it as the selvage of the fabric.  Gather the sleeves and the body pieces separately to get a more square than round neckline. 
Title: Re: Hemd / Smock / Shift / Chemise neckline treatment
Post by: Irma on June 21, 2013, 09:03:25 AM
That's very helpful.  Thank you so much.
Title: Re: Hemd / Smock / Shift / Chemise neckline treatment
Post by: gem on June 21, 2013, 08:12:22 PM
Quote from: isabelladangelo on June 20, 2013, 09:31:56 PMGather the sleeves and the body pieces separately to get a more square than round neckline.

That is *extremely* helpful, Isabella. And her corset fits her just beautifully!
Title: Re: Hemd / Smock / Shift / Chemise neckline treatment
Post by: isabelladangelo on June 21, 2013, 08:28:29 PM
Gem, you should check out her blog at http://www.elegantmusings.com/ (http://www.elegantmusings.com/)  It's mostly vintage now but it's still awesome.  Her old site is at http://acrosstheages.tripod.com/rengown2.html? (http://acrosstheages.tripod.com/rengown2.html?) where the image is from.  However, the site is full of pop ups so beware.