Hello All!
I am looking to evolve into a new character. I have been doing some research and have found the Venetian Era of the Renaissance fascinating. What I need help with is researching a Noble Woman's clothing. I do not have a specific year that I am focusing on as of yet. Can anyone point me in the direction of resources and information? The one site I have found is "The realm of Venus". But any other help would be greatly appreciated!
My guess is what you mean that you like the look of the Venetian style during the Renaissance era. ;) The style changed greatly through the Renaissance ( 1450-1600~) so it would help to narrow down a date range. Realm of Venus is an awesome site and she has a ton of great portraits categorized by decades. I'd also suggest checking out the showcase part of the site to see what others have done.
Another completely awesome site would be http://aneafiles.webs.com/articles.html (http://aneafiles.webs.com/articles.html). Scroll down to where you see a line of female portraits. Click on the second portrait for the Venetian styles during the 16th Century. Anea has a ton of different portraits listed from throughout Italy - each categorized by region.
Let me know when you have a date narrowed down as there a lot of other great sites for specific decades
Purchase the film...'DANGEROUS BEAUTY'
This film was shot on location in Venice. The story takes place in the 1580's. The costuming is done by Gabriella Pescucci, who did the costuming for the Showtime hit series...'THE BORGIAS'.
You will notice differences between the Italian and English fashion styles. Of course, Courtesans were designated the color red.
Actually I fell in love with the History of Venice during the Renaissance. No monarchy with any real power. The Senate (made up of Nobles) held the true power. Which is unique considering the other governments during the same time. I will narrow down which year I like best and let you know :D
I have seen Dangerous Beauty and Love it. But I would like to achieve some level of historical accuracy and find out some basics from colors to design.
Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on September 08, 2013, 10:04:22 PM
Purchase the film...'DANGEROUS BEAUTY'
This film was shot on location in Venice. The story takes place in the 1580's. The costuming is done by Gabriella Pescucci, who did the costuming for the Showtime hit series...'THE BORGIAS'.
You will notice differences between the Italian and English fashion styles. Of course, Courtesans were designated the color red.
It's not accurate, sadly. The real Veronica Franco was married and had two or three kids by the time she became a courtesan. Also, I would not recommend that movie as some may find some of the subject matter objectionable.
As for the Borgias...yeah, no. Just no. I put the costuming of that in the same category as the Tudors or that horrible evil The Other Boleyn Girl - it might have helped if the costumer bothered to crack a book open or bother going to an art museum. I've seen some of the costumes in person and even my cousin was shocked at the shoddy construction. She knew nothing of period costuming.
In the 16th C, Courtesans were required by law to wear yellow veils - however, that was rarely followed. There also seems to be some association with the color Kelley green but, again, it's not really a rule that was followed.
Sorry, Dangerous Beauty and The Borgias are not good sources for H/A costuming.
Venetian Ladder laced Bodices (http://starlightmasquerade.com/PortraitGallery/Ladder-Laced-Venetian/inspiration-pages/openbodicelowres.htm) were popular in the 1570's. Sometimes its hard to tell the Noblewomen from the Courtesans without a playbook; but in general Courtesans did not wear pearl necklaces. At various times pearls were thought to represent purity.
A woman depicted with her children or her husband is usually not a Courtesan either.
(http://starlightmasquerade.com/PortraitGallery/Ladder-Laced-Venetian/inspiration-images/starlight-masquerade-venetian-renaissance-costume-43-bernardino-licinio.jpg)
Harder to find; but also good sources are donor portraits; altar paintings where the donor and his wife, and sometimes family, are shown in company with saints.
(http://nga.gov.au/Exhibition/RENAISSANCE/Images/400/202403.jpg)
Quote from: DonaCatalina on September 09, 2013, 04:56:14 AM
Sorry, Dangerous Beauty and The Borgias are not good sources for H/A costuming.
I'm going to agree with you Ladies wholeheartedly there. Both took an AWFUL LOT of Liberties with gown styles.
And, despite what you may have seen on the Borgias: COURTESANS are NOT your garden variety prostitutes. I've not read a great amount of literature on that, however, I understand there were such a thing as Honest courtesans, who never bedded their 'benefactors' or patrons. While there are a lot of meanings to the word Courtesan, I prefer to think of them as Courtiers.
Quote from: DonaCatalina on September 09, 2013, 04:56:14 AMSometimes its hard to tell the Noblewomen from the Courtesans without a playbook; but in general Courtesans did not wear pearl necklaces. At various times pearls were thought to represent purity.
Thanks, DonaCatalina - That's one kernel that I missed! I knew that pearls were thought to symbolize purity, but I've never heard that Courtesans didn't wear them.
I figure, if they're cheeky enough to occasionally show off pantalones, they'd be bold enough to wear pearls. LOL
I spent way to long on Anea's Site last night! The basics I was looking for were all there ;D (that makes me a happy giggles ;) )
I have narrowed the date down to the mid to late 1500's.
I would never use a t.v. show or movie for H/A. My novice eyes see too many inaccuracies while watching them (from actual history being "artistically changed" to the clothing) They are good for creative inspiration when you want to bend the rules ;D
DonaCatalina thank you for the site! I would love to attempt the ladder laced bodice. I really like the look.
I did not mean to create a firestorm of controversy be mentioning an Academy Award Winning Costume Designer or some film references for Italian/Venetian costuming.
Film Costume Designers often do take liberties when designing costumes for films. But the really good ones do indeed do their homework, reference historical points, culture, etc.
I do concur that the TUDORS and The Other Boleyn Girl were horrid!
I did read the Book...The Honest Courtesan...The film does take a lot of liberties with the life of Veronica Franco. But the costuming is indeed lovely all the same.
Quote from: auntiegiggles on September 09, 2013, 11:01:46 AM
I have narrowed the date down to the mid to late 1500's.
Yay!
You'll want to check out this dress diary then:
http://dressdiaries.livejournal.com/364251.html?thread=2562267 (http://dressdiaries.livejournal.com/364251.html?thread=2562267)
Her dress came out lovely and she uses a way of lacing developed by Jen Thompson - who moved her site last year and didn't switch up all the pages so the page with the double ribbon lacing is gone. However, there are still plenty of pages describing it, so it's not a big deal. This will allow your dress to lie flat across your torso if you do the front lacing. If you do side back lacing - just go with the normal eyelets.
For the skirt, just do the normal rectangle thing, pleat it, and then pin the skirt to the almost finished bodice with the wrong side of the skirt on top of the right side of the bodice so you can cut off the excess center front and get an even hem.
....I hope that makes sense.
Complete sense Isabelladangelo! Thank you! ;D
That is the same technique for the ladder lacing of the bodice I used when I did the Venetian gown ensemble for Lady Kett last year.
(https://sphotos-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/426554_10150706265046280_206952686_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/425981_10150706266546280_381472795_n.jpg)
This was most helpful based on the Venetian gown that Jen Thompson did years ago. The Camicia was her simple pattern as well. I am planning on a Venetian Gown for my daughter next year in Maroons and Golds.
How marvelous, Giggles! As odd at it seems (to me, at least), my persona is Italian yet I have not made a single Italian gown. ??? I came across a marvelous "cheat" for the ladder laced bodice look so I can still tie up for support but add a fake front panel to get the ladder laced look.
Mayhaps I will jump into your Italian carriage and create lovelies for myself and my good lord husband. I didn't see much in the way of men's clothing on those websites. Staying in the 1550-1600 time period, what did men wear in Venice that set them apart from other parts of Europe?
Quote from: Marietta Graziella on October 07, 2013, 08:23:22 AM
Mayhaps I will jump into your Italian carriage and create lovelies for myself and my good lord husband. I didn't see much in the way of men's clothing on those websites. Staying in the 1550-1600 time period, what did men wear in Venice that set them apart from other parts of Europe?
I would highly suggest looking at Anea's page that I have listed above. She does have a page devoted to men's portraits of the 16th Century in Italy.
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/wardrobe.htm (http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/wardrobe.htm) also has portraits specifically of Venetian men, sorted by decade.
ok. I am finally starting work on my gown. But now I have another question. I would like to do the veil look for head wear. The veil would clip to the back of my head and not on top. I've read Venetian women were allowed flexibility in their head coverings and most portraits women have very little or none at all. Their is still done typically with braids and rolled on the head. But were veils reserved for widows and maids? I can't find any evidence to support the latter claim but wanted your input.
Thanks!
No! Veils were worn by every female - while out in town. Hence why you don't see many in portraits. Courtesans typically wore some sort of yellow veil (it varied by city state and decade so it's not a hard & fast rule). Think of veils being worn when our mothers and grandmothers would have worn a hat. You *could* wear one inside but, most of the time, a hat was for one was going out. The same with veils.
Awesome! Thank you! ;D
Any idea on construction of a veil (or a great site that talks about them?) To me they look like a rectangle shape of sheer fabric with a width that goes from finger tip to finger tip and a length from crown to waist. But someone else said it looked like they might be a triangle shape. Any ideas?
Mine are almost all rectangular. I have one oval one but I tend to use that for earlier periods like the 14th Century.
If you look at "Mores Italiae" from 1575 on the Realm of Venus site, you'll see that a lot of veils really look like just sheets of sheer fabric.
That is what I thought! Thank you for being such an amazing source of information! ;D