I am fairly new to Elizabethan sewing. I had no problem attaching skirts to Civil war bodices, as I was making them straight across the front. However, I'm planning my next Elizabethan, and it has a V-front. This will be a front-fastening (hooks) gown; I am confused, trying to visualize attaching the cartridge-pleated skirt to the front of such a bodice. Am I sewing it somewhere up from the point, straight across as I come from the side, and the point will hang down over the skirt top? I don't think I've ever seen the inside of such a garment yet, so if any of you have a picture of this, I would really appreciate it. I really do want to make this dress one-piece. Thanks for your valued advice!
Laurenlee
Gently cut the front of the skirt so it's "curved" at the top. You want the top of the skirt to have a "slope" so that the very top front has a "dip" that is the same amount below the level of the rest of the waist of the skirt as the front of the bodice is below the rest of the waist of the bodice. You gently curve the dip up until you get to the point where it needs to be leveled off.
I'm sorry I'm not great about explaining this, but I think if you look at some of the patterns from extant examples, like Eleanor de Toledo's gown, it might help explain it more.
take a look at this:
http://www.sempstress.org/patterns/draping/kirtlefitted.shtml (http://www.sempstress.org/patterns/draping/kirtlefitted.shtml)
this one isn't cartridge pleated, but the concept is pretty much the same, yours will need to tapper gently not do the funny zig-zaggy thing hers does. I find the hardest part of curving the waist of the skirt is knowing how far back toward the hips I need to start. Having a dress dummy is very helpful, b/c I'm able to pin the pleats to her at the real waist and then mark aprox. where the bodice waist needs top be.
The Renaissance Tailor has a *brilliant* diagram showing how to cut a skirt/bodice combination exactly like what you're looking for:
http://www.vertetsable.com/errata_gallery4.htm
(scroll down a bit)
Gem's right that is a great diagram and I'd completely forgotten about it!
Thank you, that IS very helpful!
LaurenLee
That is the same technique that I use when attaching a skirt to a bodice. Works wonders to getting the sloping section just so that it lays nicely.