I was hired by a group to make barabarian garb for a barbarian fighter act. I made halter top barbarian dress/garb for a girl. She is eye candy for a barbarian fighters act. The 4 other dresses I made for the other girls work great, but this one girls dress is causing nightmares.
The problem: The side of the halter top are gaping, and she is afraid she will fall out. (She is a size D).
Issues:
1) She doesn't want to have a fitting unless she is wearing a Tshirt under it. Yes I have tried to explain to her that I can't get a proper fit unless she is wearing what she would be wearing underneath when she performs. She throws a tantrum and her bosses let her have her way. (Due to all the fitting issues, her boss now is making her do her fitting right. He can't keep paying me to fix her problems)
2) I have rebuilt her bodice 2x to adjust for the fact she has a 8 inch underarm to waist measurement. And to take in the bust 2 inches, but keep the waist the same. (She's 36 bust, 32 waist, 40 hip.)
3)On her 3rd rebuild I changed the front darts to princess seams. Took in an additional 1/2" at each seam to make sure it doesn't gap. She is still saying it is gaping too much.
What I need help with:
I have a fitting with her tonight (11PM, long story). I plan to take in at the front princess seam, side seam and back at least another 1/2". Is there anything else I can do for her. Would adding boning help? Suggestions? I'm really at my wits end.
I have had good luck with large busted women that do not want a hard boning - using hemp soft boning to offer good support without any poking or movement restriction. That said, I have never done a halter for a women with that kind of bust line. Could several lines of hemp under the arm following along the armsye to the edge of the bust resolve the gap, or if she is uninterested this, could a casing along the armsye with a drawstring that could be tightened after she gets in it? Barbarian -- gives you a lot of options to resolve the problem that would not be available for H/A.
My other comment is, if she is so "hinky" about a private fitting without a t shirt how is she going to be comfortable playing the half dressed Barbarian in public. Of course that is not your issue, just an observation.
I would try sewing a slight casing around the neckline with an internal draw string.
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My other comment is, if she is so "hinky" about a private fitting without a t shirt how is she going to be comfortable playing the half dressed Barbarian in public. Of course that is not your issue, just an observation.
I had the same thought. I've actually had the same problem in college. The opera company I costumed for was doing "La traviata," and the lead soprano had similar hang ups. So she wanted us to make up little chemisettes and whatnot to wear with the dresses. Finally the designer told her..."you are playing a courtesan...if decolletage is always going to be an issue for you, find a new line of work." Not the most sympathetic outlook but...nevertheless...if you won't dress the part, don't take the role.
what is the halter style? Like is it a tie neck? What if you added a tie at the back? like from the side seam to the back make it tie... except I know it's leather so that probably won't work... so nevermind.
I dont' get it either. She has a nice curvy figure but no matter what she thinks she fat, and doesnt' like her body. She took the barbaian job I don't know . I just make the stuff. I wasn't hired to deal with their hang up, but some how I do /sigh
I'm thinking of adding a row of hidden elastic around the sides and back to help. It is a tie neck, that curves from the neck down under the arms to the lower back. I though about building a bra into the dress to help, but she doesnt' want "poked" by anything. Due to the heat all the dresses are made from animal print fabric, but trimmed with 'barbarian' type stuff.
If you'll pardon a response from a male, in all honesty I'd talk to the one that is PAYING for it and find out what they want.
I like the idea of hiding a drawstring around the armholes and allowing her to adjust it to her liking. With a bust line that large, the odds are no matter what she is going to have a gap, unless she is expecting her costume to fit her like a bra in which case she is going to be disappointed because you just cannot get that sort of fit without building a bra into it, and she said she does not want "poking".
While her "comfort" while in the costume is important, her comfort level with trying to make sure it fits properly is a moot point. You cannot get a proper fitting over a t-shirt. When I make a fitting pattern for my corset cusotmers, and they come over for a fitting, they know full well that it is to be wearing the corset pattern and nothing else. I have to make sure that it sits properly in all locations and make modifications on the pattern before I even think about cutting into the more expensive fabric. They of course are paying good money for the final product so they tend to understand.
If she is not paying for it, it seems to me that she is under the impression that she has some sort of say in how much work you are going to have to do.
what about adding a spandex type tube top underneath either sewn in to keep it steady or separate to prevent... wardrobe malfunctions...
http://www.spanx.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2990088&cp=2992553.3015048&parentPage=family
http://www.spanx.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2990104&cp=2992554.3010035&parentPage=family
How about a nice supportive camisole under the thing? It might make her feel more confident.
Or does her tummy show...
The elastic thing is basically the same idea as the internal draw string...without the string.
I understand the whole curvy figure thing...I've had child bearing hips since I was 9 :)
From what I know of female clothing, (which is surprisingly more than you would expect, unless you know me that is..)
1. A camisole might work ONLY if you chould camoflague the straps and such.
2. If the bust strap is wide enough, you could possibly hide a tube bra/tubetop (she NEEDS support for a bust that large) which might help with her "modesty" issue.
<--- knows about support issues (*rubs neck*)
I was thinking about how my tube top fits me and I decided that you'd have best luck if you did stitch it around the top of the halter... I'm a 38D and the weight will make mine slide down sometimes...
Well, I'm a DD cup, and I wear a bra every day, and it never "pokes." What does she wear in her mundane life??
Can you raise the bottom of the armscye so that it isn't cut so low along the outside of the breast? See how much coverage there is in this picture? (http://www.smartcrochet.com/images/Spider_Halter_top.jpg) You may have to keep pinching out excess fabric until the armscye has kind of an L-shape, instead of a nice round curve (see this article (http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00228.asp)).
Lastly, what about wearing a halter top with a built-in bra (http://www.softsurroundings.com/P/Underwire_Halter_Top/) *under* what you're making for her? (Or if that's not an option, it might be something worth studying, for you.)
This is the picture he gave me to design the dress like.
http://images.buycostumes.com/mgen/merchandiser/31417.jpg
So she wont' show as much flesh (I know barbarian and not alot of flesh is a contradiction) we couldn't do it as a 2 piece, so all of them had to be in dresses.
The design doesnt' allow for strapless bras honestly. Because she is so short waisted any would be easily seen. A regular bra strap on her nearly sits at her waist. I talked to the guy who is paying me and she has to do what I tell her from now on.
I think she expects it to fit like a bra honestly. Like I said I'm at my wits end.
Ok, so where is the gaping? Is the issue coverage or support (two different problems)? Or both?
Does it have to be a halter (as in, backless?), or can you achieve the same silhouette, with straps that continue down the back and attach in back? (You'd probably have to figure out a way that the straps could tie to the back, or she'd never be able to get in or out of it. But it still might be your best option).
Her issue seems to be coverage. The gaps are roughly about half way between bust line and waist. She says she feels like if she moves too quickly left or right she will slide out the side.
I've got plently of fabric if I need to remake the top (yet again).
I thought about hiding a bustiare<sp> under it to help keep her in place but because she is so short waisted she can't find one short enough. Then again she has to deal with a "poking" issue.
I'll try to get pictures soon.
Maybe I am not visualizing the problem, but would clear elastic sewed on underneath help to pull in the fabric? It might help with the gapping, but it wouldn't give any support or poking.
I'm of the short waisted variety and I get her frustration. A built in halter bra may be a way to go, and she does not have to "Get poked" with it. I'm not....What about a running bra built in? They come in all shapes and sizes, nothing to poke. It's going to mean a different type of fit, but might help. Grasping at straws here.
We did a proper fitting last night. Turns out all she needed, like I suspected was larger darts taken, angeling the seams seams a little. Long story short, she needed a proper fitting. :-\
Soon as I did the simple adjustments the dress fit perfectly. No gaps, no longer loose at the bust, and nice coverage, and support. Her boss was not pleased that this was all because she refused to do fittings properly. Amazing what happens when you actually do things you are suppose to. ;D
I appreciate the advise. If she still has problems, for what ever reason, I'll keep your suggestions in mind.