So, I'm in the process of making some breeches for m'lord for the upcoming Pirate Fest, and since we like to pretend we are rich, they are out of SILK. Perhaps they are a poly-silk if such a thing exists, but they are scrumptious in colour. Of course, silk (yes, I'm going to be referring to it that way) has a number of challenges associated with it - for one, the pattern likes to slide right off while cutting... but secondly, it seems to be a very thin fabric for something so esseential as breeches, so I've decided to use my mockup (made out of sheeting fabric) to line these breeches. I'm using a pattern - Simplicity 4923 - (the "captain Jack" pattern), and it suggests I use interfacing on a few of the pieces.
My question is this: Should I apply the interfacing (it's one sided, and already cut) to the silk, or to the sturdier cotton that I am lining it with? Any help you can offer would be MOST appreciated so that I can understand WHY as well.
~Thanks~
If you are using a silk for Breeches, may I sugest underlining in a broadcloth of the same color. Be sure to surge all seams. Silk ravels like a son of a gun.
Interfacing, such as a non-fusible type that is of a loose weave, would be best used for the waistband, legs bands, and fly front.
Any fusible interfacing may result in buckling when the heat hits it.
So..... I should apply the fusable interfacing to the cotton rather than the silk?
Use non fusible Interfacing. Even to the cotton Broadcloth. The results will be cleaner, Orphena.
Depending on the weight of the cotton you are lining the silk with, I really wouldn't even bother with a "middle layer" at all. If it's a light weight cotton though, I'd take something like muslin or just get the same cotton you are using as the lining and basically double it.
I don't know if this is the "right" way of doing things, but I always apply interfacing to the lining fabric, rather than the fashion fabric.
But you should really only need the interfacing, like Lady K said, for things like the waistband. (Says G, who has not interfaced her last three skirt waistbands and seems to be surviving just fine....)
*G* @ Gem - you and me both, girl! I usually skip the interfacing completly.
The pants are 75% finished - I interfaced the front flaps, and the waistband. I'm glad I decided to fully line the pants - I think the cotton will take up any "strain" that I wouldn't want the silk to endure.
I cant wait to show you guys the pics - the fabric is absolutley beautiful!
I've given up on interfacing too. It jujst bunches up after a while, even the sewn in kind and is a pain in the hiney.
Voila:
the promised picture:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v18/ShariO/Pirate%20Fest%202008/?action=view¤t=aIMG_2234.jpg
On certain items I give up on interfacing. Honestly I prefer the sew in vs the iron in. My rogue however has a 'thing' of sharp cuffs, center fronts, and waistbands.
He had me buy heavy weight interfacing for his new pants because he wanted to make sure they were extra sharp. ::pinches bridge of nose:: The middle weight would be fine, but he is persistant. He will be left with the rubbing marks, not I. Granted I get to listen to him whine about it. ::)