I made this doublet for my son recently and noticed that I think I have enough fabric to make some sleeves for this. What is the best way to make removeable sleeves for this? I am thinking sleeves that will either tie or button the sleeve closed. What sort of shape do I make the sleeves? a trapezoid that is smaller on one end? Also, this is lined. What is the best way to attach the sleeves?
(http://s26.postimg.org/3lfwryhyd/2014_08_04_08_41_11.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/3lfwryhyd/)
The sleeves I've made for these garments have been a two piece affair, with an outer sleeve and an inner sleeve. They usually have a curve to them, or possibly an angle at the elbow. I imagine that I would cut out the outboard sleeve halves first, and would then be able to "piece together" (if necessary) the inboard pieces since they would not be seen.
Attaching the sleeves? Many different methods. I like having little grommet tabs in the arm-hole (3 or more), and then having "points" (strings or cords) on the sleeves that correspond to the grommeted tabs.
If you look through this sewing thread, you should find some good ideas/suggestions. One idea that I haven't tried, but sounds intriguing, is to use those hair stretch things that girls use for pony/pigtails.
Good luck!
You can buy the grommet tape (actually web belt fabric with grommets already set every 1.5") for about $12.00 yd at your fabric store.
You only need about 6-8" of it per arm hole, and it allows you flexibility with multiple points to tie your sleeves at. It also distributes the weight of the sleeve a little better.
When I make detachable sleeves for Doublets and Bodices, I use 1/2" white plastic drapery rings sewn inside the armsythe so tjat I can tie the sleeves on. For the ties with an Aglet or plain Bolo tip at the end, I preferr 5/8" wide grosgrain ribbon cut in 26" strips, then folded in half and sewn at the top end of the sleeve cap at 3 or 4 points for even wear and fit.
I just sew grosgrain laces inside the sleeves and doublet. I find that the rings have a tendency to pull out after a couple of wearings.
I do a fair number of trapezoid sleeves. To attach, I've done metal jump rings attached with clasps, which don't tend to hold that well. I've started doing buttons with hair elasticity, which allow a bit more movement.
Quote from: DonaCatalina on August 05, 2014, 06:36:55 PM
I just sew grosgrain laces inside the sleeves and doublet. I find that the rings have a tendency to pull out after a couple of wearings.
Dona! It all depends how well the rings are sewn down and how they set inside the armsythe. I have never had any rings pull out at all after years of wear.
Thanks for all the suggestions. The inside is nicely finished and lined so I didn't really want to rip seams to add extra gadgets to attach the sleeves. I like the idea of sewing rings inside the doublet. That will disturb the finished piece the least, I think. Thanks again!!
You can add eyelets as well but yes, lacing rings will work. As for the sleeves, the trapezoid kind with eyelets at the top (NEVER use grommets. They do rip out of bodices and they WILL rip out of sleeves. You are moving way too much with the sleeve to really even think of putting those in). I've also sewn in ribbons to the inside of the doublet, at the top, to attach the sleeve - leaving the ribbons free flowing when the sleeves aren't in.
I used to use small brass rings for roman shades, but since JoAnn Fabrics doesn't carry those any more, I started using small rings found in the jewelry finding section. Something like this:
http://www.joann.com/blue-moon-beads-findings--twisted-rings-multi-pack-silver/12354213.html#start=14 (http://www.joann.com/blue-moon-beads-findings--twisted-rings-multi-pack-silver/12354213.html#start=14)
These aren't the exact ones, but they are nice and solid, and can be found in multiple sizes. I sewed grosgrain ribbon to my sleeves, and the rings to the bodice straps. Never had a problem with the ribbons coming undone, but I have popped a ring off by flinging my arms too wide (got carried away by the moment!). Easy to fix, since the ring was still tied in the ribbon!
http://hancockfabrics.com/dritz-home-brass-plated-rings---15%26frasl%3B32-in---24-ct.-3568102.html#q=brass+rings&start=1 (http://hancockfabrics.com/dritz-home-brass-plated-rings---15%26frasl%3B32-in---24-ct.-3568102.html#q=brass+rings&start=1)
I think these are the kind I still have. I bought them YEARS ago from a Hancock that no longer exists. They were 5 cents each or $50 for the bag. I bought the bag. :-)
I've used large jump rings from the jewlery department - just get the ones that are like tiny key rings, not the ones you pull apart! They are pretty cheap as well.