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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: Gypsy_Pyxie on August 14, 2008, 05:23:56 PM

Title: linen weights?
Post by: Gypsy_Pyxie on August 14, 2008, 05:23:56 PM
how heavy is light weight, medium weight, hanky weight linen? I've never worked with linen before and was wondering what the weights were like. What weights would you use for shirts? Would it make good pants? Skirts?
Title: Re: linen weights?
Post by: gem on August 14, 2008, 05:55:11 PM
Oh, what a shame--the Baroness had a fabulous post on this on the old forum!  Let me see what I can remember.

Fabrics-store.com sells their linen by weight.  My brown gamurra (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17691164/275717823.jpg) is made from the 5.3 oz.  It's a great medium weight--nice firm weave; it makes a fantastic dress and would make a really nice shirt, as well.  It's not heavy-maybe about the weight of broadcloth or just a bit heavier.

I have two shifts/chemises made of the 3.5 oz linen.  You can see in this picture (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17273772/314740287.jpg) that it's sheer enough for my red dress form to show through underneath.  It's wonderfully soft and lightweight--like really well broken-in sheets.  And, actually, in this picture, my apron (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17273772/319418545.jpg) is made of the same stuff, and you can see right through it (I plan to order some white/off white in the 5.3 oz and make another one that at least looks more practical!).

(Interestingly, I ordered 8 yards of each.  The 5 oz brown came in a box that weighed *a ton.* The  3 oz white came in an envelope that weighed nothing and was half the size!)

I have some of their 7.1 oz "canvas," too, and it's very heavy and stiff--almost like buckram.  I don't know if that's because it's *heavy,* or because it has some kind of sizing in it, though.  I haven't washed it to see what would happen.
Title: Re: linen weights?
Post by: Cilean on August 15, 2008, 05:01:31 PM
It is so hard to know,

When I was in england I had the chance to feel Linen in Lawn, and Holland Linen which were very thin.

I was able to obtain 1.8 ounce linen which would be called Holland Linen and it is so thin you can read through it.

Typically

Holland Linen is 1.50 to 2.0 ounce
Lawn is 2.0 to 3.0 ounce
Handkerchief linen is 3.0 ounce to 4.25 ounce
Medium is 4.50 up to 6.0 ounce
Heavy or Canvas is upwards of 6.5 ounces


I hope that helps!!  I use Medium weight linen to line my outfits, I find that it works well in the heat I live in California and temps can be pretty warm here.

Cilean


Title: Re: linen weights?
Post by: Artemisia on August 18, 2008, 03:58:59 PM
I've used Fabrics-store.com 7.1 oz and 8oz linen. It is stiff when it arrives but softens considerably after washing. I wanted to use it for corset lining but it wasn't strong enough. I did use it to hold the boning on my venetian gown. I just washed it and two pieces of plastic cable boning poked through the 8oz linen. I think it's because I cut the pieces too long but be warned it isn't as strong as you'd think.

x-posted: I've asked Fabrics-store.com to order a heavyweight twill linen canvas strong enough for corsets. They said they'll buy some with their next supply order.  ::hopes::
Title: Re: linen weights?
Post by: gem on August 18, 2008, 04:32:42 PM
I think the Baroness gets corset-strength linen from Burnley & Trowbridge.  It's not shown on their website, unfortunately.
Title: Re: linen weights?
Post by: Artemisia on August 18, 2008, 04:39:56 PM
Quote from: gem on August 18, 2008, 04:32:42 PM
I think the Baroness gets corset-strength linen from Burnley & Trowbridge.  It's not shown on their website, unfortunately.

I checked that site out immediately when the Baroness posted it. Yep, no luck. ::waaaa::