OK, my sewing skills are improving with much practice lately making new garb for the 3 kids, me and some friends. Now my husband has decided he wants a captain's coat. We did find a decent pattern for one, Thanks to Pirates of the Caribean being so popular. What is the best kind of fabric to use for this type of a project.
There are various fabrics that you can use. Cotton twill, corduroy, cotton velvet, damask, and/or jacquard are all very good for a 1700's frock coat. Most sewing patterns should show the suggested fabrics on the back of the envelope.
Everything Isabella said, plus wool flannel or wool broadcloth. Try www.hamiltondrygoods.com and www.renaissancefabrics.net for nice wools.
Just keep in mine that if you decide to chose wool ,go for a light weight wool.
The heavy wool , captain jackets can be brutal in summer time. I started out with a heavy weight wool captain jacket, and now i wear a light weight wool jacket. Much better. :)
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I'll be looking at Joanne's and our local wallmart over the next few weeks to see if I can find anything there, unfortunately that's all there is in my area. If I don't find any thing there I'll see what I can find on line. I do really like to actually see the material before I buy it though. It's hard to get an accurate color match off the computer.
Many online merchants will do free swatching. ;)
www.fabric.com is my favorite place to shop. I have never had a problem with color.
Rahne, it very much depends on the look you are going for.The lightweight wool is a very wise choice for durability and comfort. You can also use a broccade if you are looking for a richer look. I would suggest velveteen NOT velvet as velvet tends to crease.
Suit coat fabrics work well too.
Isabella
thank you for the link. Found something there at a reasonable price. will know better once I get it how it will work for the coat.
But I'm sure I can use it for another project if not the coat.
What is the best lining to use if you are trying not to make the coat too hot. Quite often it is in the 90's with high humidity when we are at faire.
Quote from: Rahne on September 11, 2008, 08:07:08 AM
What is the best lining to use if you are trying not to make the coat too hot. Quite often it is in the 90's with high humidity when we are at faire.
Linen.
I've noticed there are several weights to the linen fabrics, would a medium or a heavy weight be a better choice
Light weight linen, actually. But don't go to Hanky weight; that's better for shirts/chemises/smocks/ect. I'd also look at simple muslin (cotton) if you want to go cheap. With one of the Joann's 40% coupons I get in the mail, I can get muslin for well under $1 a yard.
Basically, whenever you line anything, go with natural fabrics. Cotton or linen will work depending on your budget.
great! I'll see what I can find when I go pick up my buttons in a few weeks. Had to special order them as I needed 28 buttons. almost $70 just for buttons. I don't think my husband believed me when I told him that the $325 for the coat he liked at ORF wasn't that far off from the cost of materials to make it. He does now. lol That's ok though, his will be an original, and he won't run into others with the same or almost the same coat. I'm thinking I may make one for myself too. I found some great fabric with Dragonflies on it at Joanne's at that last visit too.
If it's not already too late to cance that special oeder you might want to check ebay for large lots buttons.
Thanks for the tip Sealion. I think I have to keep with the ones I ordered for his jacket, already paid for them, but I did put a bid in on some rose buttons and bought 36 dragonfly buttons for my jacket and shirt for $42 and shipping is only $3. That will save me a bit on mine. Will also give me a few spare buttons in case of loss.
I'll post pics of the jackets when they are done. It will probably be a while though I have a few other projects to Finnish before I can start them.
Here are a few more wild ideas to set you thinking...
Jack Sparrow's coat is made of silk. Silk tweed is light weight, breathable, and hangs beautifully. It's also quite strong, so will stand quite a bit of wear. It does fray, so exposed cut edged need to be clean finished.
Wool/silk mixes, and cashmere mixed with silk make very fine suitings: look for 'tropical weight'.
Linings need to be smooth to allow ease of putting on and taking off. Cheaper linings of the past included cotton sateen (like curtain lining), and glazed cotton. Better linings were twill woven silks. If you opt for silk, it's well worth putting a silk lining in. Whatever you line with, make sure it is COAT WEIGHT lining. Dress lining is too light weight and will fail quickly. A good lining for a lighter weight coat is bemberg (or Bremsilk), a breathable cupro lining.
If you opt for curtain fabric with a polyester content, you could always leave the coat unlined, but do clean finish all seam allowances!
(http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Town-Crier/town_c1.jpg)
Wool Barathea from http://www.abimelech.co.uk/, lined with heavy twill coat lining from Sid Trim, Leeds, UK. Rank Tape from http://www.wyedean.com/index.htm, buttons from Jo Cooper (cast pewter).
(http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Three%20Dancing%20Pinces/pinkblingfront.JPG) (http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Three%20Dancing%20Pinces/blueblingfront.JPG)
Poly mix jacquard curtain fabrics from http://www.abakhan.co.uk/, gold braid from BL Joshi UK Ltd, Wembley, blazer buttons from http://www.daintysupplies.co.uk/1/intro.cfm. These were unlined. The waistcoats were lined and backed with polycotton sheeting!
The red one for Gez was done using this pattern from JP Ryan:
(http://www.jpryan.com/images/g1750coat.gif)
The kids ones were made using this pattern from Simplicity:
(http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Three%20Dancing%20Pinces/3644.jpg)
More on each project, which might be helpful:
http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Three%20Dancing%20Pinces/three_dancing_princes.htm
http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Town-Crier/town_crier_project.htm
Thanks for the tips Kate! I'm planning some pirate garb for this winter's projects.
KAte and I use the same JP Ryan pattern for Pirate Coats. It's a very good one. I also use the JP Ryan pattern for the long waistcoat(vest) as well.
(http://thumb9.webshots.net/t/69/169/2/77/51/2922277510025619629owJgAg_th.jpg) (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2922277510025619629owJgAg)
(http://thumb9.webshots.net/t/50/750/3/44/90/2837344900025619629ynZBXR_th.jpg) (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2837344900025619629ynZBXR)
(http://thumb9.webshots.net/t/69/169/1/96/50/2155196500025619629lREVmP_th.jpg) (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2155196500025619629lREVmP)
I didn't bother with a waistcoat pattern... Just adapted the coat pattern! :D Saved a bit of cash that way.
The JP Ryan coat is excellent, but does use proper 18th C construction methods. You need to watch for that, as at the back, at the top of the vent, you end up with a raw edge on the outside! As I said in my coat diary, "the instructions for dealing with it were missing. I emailed the pattern producers, and they were VERY helpful: this bit was usually finished with either a buttonhole type stitch, or covered by braid. I think my 'mock buttonhole stitch' works just fine, and it went through all the layers, fixing them together, and is much stronger than a hand worked stitch. To tidy up the inside, I sewed a patch of barathea over it by hand and pressed it flat." Susan North at the V&A was equally helpful and nice. Originally a heavy coat like this may well have been made from Melton cloth, a wool cloth woven about 120" wide (yes, even in the 18th C!), and fulled and felted down until you couldn't see the weaving, and it looked like dense felt. Cloth like that doesn't fray, and is way to thick to make turnings in, so it was left with raw edges. It really doesn't fray! Take a look at my Redcoats project for more: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Phil%27sjackets/redcoats_are_coming.htm
On Gez's coat you can just about see the stitches here...
(http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Town-Crier/Back%20Vent%20stitching.jpg)
The kids pattern is different at the back, not being cut quite so authentically...
(http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Three%20Dancing%20Pinces/greenback.JPG)
Lady K, I'll just say it again: I LOVE that prirate coat! I've just finished a black velvet project, and am writing it up. I'll get it on the web site some time soon...
Those jackets look great. I hope mine turn out so well. I can't wait to start working on them. We'll be wearing them for pirate weekend at GLMF next year. Thanks for the extra material tips. I did find an absolutely beautiful fabric at Joanne's in the home decor section it is an embroidered silk, black on black. Even on sale it is expensive, but I am seriously considering it.
Go on, spoil yourselves! You're worth it... And I always think it's not worth doing £300 worth of time, effort, and sheer hard work and bling on cheap fabric... BARGAIN fabric, yes (those kid's coat fabrics cost me £2.50 a meter, but were excellent quality and vastly reduced), but not cheap fabrics.
Quote from: Rahne on September 14, 2008, 12:49:17 PM
Those jackets look great. I hope mine turn out so well. I can't wait to start working on them. We'll be wearing them for pirate weekend at GLMF next year. Thanks for the extra material tips. I did find an absolutely beautiful fabric at Joanne's in the home decor section it is an embroidered silk, black on black. Even on sale it is expensive, but I am seriously considering it.
FYI- There is a magazine you can buy at Joann's that I can't recall the name of (usually NOT with the magazines but displayed on top of the patterns cabinets at my local store) that you can buy for $2.99 that has coupons on the back cover good through the end of december. (2) 30% off, (2) 40%, & (2) 50%. :)
If you opt for silk, it's well worth putting a silk lining in. Whatever you line with, make sure it is COAT WEIGHT lining. Dress lining is too light weight and will fail quickly. A good lining for a lighter weight coat is Bemberg (or Bremsilk), a breathable cupro lining.
Most of what is actually listed as lining fabric is polyester or rayon or some man made fabric. I looked under the silks on line at fabric.com and at Joanne's have not seen any Bemberg or Bremsilk
All that I could find was Bemberg that was rayon which would be hot if I'm not mistaken. I did find Taffeta and Duponi silk, but both say light weight. would either of these work for a lining fabric? Or can you point me in the right direction to find some?
I too have used the same JP Ryan pattern as Kate and Kathleen. I have also made 6 French Military coats from a Canadian company for French and Indian War renactors that is easier to make then the Ryan one and has a really nice swish factor to the skirting - the pattern name eludes me right now but I know that JAS Townsend sells that brand. The instructions on both are making huge assumptions about your sewing skills and just instruction you to for example "finish front closure edge" vs telling you the steps to accomplish this. Kate- I like the satin stitch solution for the back of the Ryan Pattern skirt pleats. I used the trim solution. I was particularly pleased with this Ryan coat's back
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/MythrinFarm/Rs8WhgRuAYI/AAAAAAAAAOA/intGzMo4eqo/s400/SUNP0033.JPG)
I have done some modification to the Simplicity on to make it look more period correct. I make the coat's skirts larger at the side seams and open up the back to be a vent rather than a solid skirt. I also fit it closer to the body and sometimes play with the turn back on the cuffs and add functional pockets. This photo of the modified Simplicity pattern is of a suit weight worsted wool coat with velvet trim and velvet lined turn back over-sized cuffs. It is lined in cotton.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/MythrinFarm/R2l_jM7cZAI/AAAAAAAAAwQ/MM3EUgMs0AA/s400/DSCF0014.JPG)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/MythrinFarm/R2l_YM7cY9I/AAAAAAAAAv4/ytDizF-okCc/s400/DSCF0010.JPG)
Quote from: Rahne on September 15, 2008, 08:22:13 AM
If you opt for silk, it's well worth putting a silk lining in. Whatever you line with, make sure it is COAT WEIGHT lining. Dress lining is too light weight and will fail quickly. A good lining for a lighter weight coat is Bemberg (or Bremsilk), a breathable cupro lining.
Most of what is actually listed as lining fabric is polyester or rayon or some man made fabric. I looked under the silks on line at fabric.com and at Joanne's have not seen any Bemberg or Bremsilk
All that I could find was Bemberg that was rayon which would be hot if I'm not mistaken. I did find Taffeta and Duponi silk, but both say light weight. would either of these work for a lining fabric? Or can you point me in the right direction to find some?
I don't know where you'll find them in the USA, but these are the TYPES of fabric I'm talking about:
Bemberg/Bremsilk: Dresses, light jackets:
http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/Product.aspx/Linings!2130
Some more info on Bemberg/Bremsilk:
http://www.bembergitalia.com/gbcupro00.html
Cotton sateen: Now often used for pockets:
http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/Product.aspx/Linings!2117
Satin twill lining: jackets and coats:
http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/Product.aspx/Linings!23114
Silk habotai: dresses, lingerie:
http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/Product.aspx/Linings!5116
Satin with flannel back - USA source! Sometimes called Kasha satin... Heavy winter coats:
http://store.sawyerbrook.com/Templates/frmTemplateP.asp?CatalogID=141&SubFolderID=20
I used it for the inside of my winter coat a couple of years back:
(http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Sewing_Projects/Poshfrockgallery/DSCF0056.JPG)
Quote from: Mythrin on September 15, 2008, 09:44:47 AM
I too have used the same JP Ryan pattern as Kate and Kathleen. Kate- I like the satin stitch solution for the back of the Ryan Pattern skirt pleats. I used the trim solution. I was particularly pleased with this Ryan coat's back
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/MythrinFarm/Rs8WhgRuAYI/AAAAAAAAAOA/intGzMo4eqo/s400/SUNP0033.JPG)
I'm really surprised by that--I used the JP Ryan caraco (lady's jacket) pattern, which has similar pleats in the back/skirting, and they're not finished like that *at all.* (Picture in which you can't really see anything (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17273772/318098836.jpg)). There's some bar tacking that is visible on the outside, but it's nothing like a raw edge! I wonder why the difference....
I actually found that JP Ryan pattern to be the single easiest pattern I've ever used. It went together utterly without confusion--which, for me, is like a miracle! LOL
Mythrin, the stitching is more like buttonhole stitch than satin stitch. It's one of the applique stitches on my machine, modified for size and direction...
Gem, I think the Caraco jacket is quite different at the back.. It would appear that it isn't split, and has no pleats, whereas the gentleman's coat is split and has pleats both in the side back seam and at the ends of the back section that is stitched down on the outside. It's a military officers coat, developed for riding astride, which is why it has the split. While view D of the Caraco does have a split, it doesn't appear from the drawings to have any pleating, relying on the fullness of the skirts to cover the hip area of the skirt worn with it.
One of these days I'll get that pattern and make it, just to satisfy mt curiosity. ;D
QuoteGem, I think the Caraco jacket is quite different at the back.. It would appear that it isn't split, and has no pleats...
It's not split, but it has three deep pleats, at the side back and center back seams (I loved making the pleats, b/c they turned out so beautifully, almost all on their own; I was a little sad there were only the six, counting the lining.). The pleats look exactly like the one in Mythrin's photo.
Right, Gem, I really WILL have to get that pattern! Another for the 'Someday' pile... ;) ;)
Kate - I would have to probably stick to the trim solution to hide the seam because my machine does not have all the nifty stitches yours does. I am particularly jealous of the eyelet stitch. huuuuh (translate as a big sigh sound)
Gem - I am with Kate on that one, that is a nice jacket and I like the drape of the back skirting. Going to have to try and get that one too particularly after your recommendation on the instructions. Maybe the difference is the way we interpret info or the technical writer who made them up...who knows?
Quote from: Mythrin on September 16, 2008, 05:15:35 PM
Maybe the difference is the way we interpret info?
Ok, I think it's a pretty safe bet that there's no way that you and Kate could both interpret the same info that would leave a raw edge visible... and then I'd come along and somehow manage to get a finished edge!! I'm fairly sure that's impossible, and probably the sign of the coming apocalypse! LOL Now, ask me to interpret *ordinary* instructions in completely the opposite way of the rest of the universe, you got it. ;D
Oh, there are AT LEAST two different ways to get a very similar look using totally different construction methods, AND be completely period accurate with both! Sometimes different methods are developed to get a specific look in a particular type of fabric. Thicker fabrics need a thinner, less bulky construction. There is NO WAY you could get that sharp a finish with a Melton cloth if it had seam allowances. It would also leave an uncomfortable lump in the small of the back. On the other hand, it would leave a fine silk open to complete destruction to do the same with that, so... Horses for courses, innit? ;D
The Barathea frays, where Melton doesn't, so I developed a 'hand stitched' look with the machine to give the neat finish I wanted (no braid going on the pleat top here - customer's choice), along with the strength to last for several years of pretty constant use. It also kept the bulk down in an area that would still have been awkward to clean finish on the inside.
Just to add to the mix, while hunting for a decent picture of the back of Jack Sparrow's coat, I came across this on another site...
(http://www.yvettes.net/justaucorpspattern.jpg)
It would appear to be a French pattern. I found it here: http://www.yvettes.net/FutureProjectsPage.html If you look at that center back seam, not only are there pleats, but there is also a GAP where the JP Ryan coat has a mere slit with a raw edge! My engineering genes are trying to work that one out...
Shall we try this one next? :P :P :P
A note on the above style skirt which is rounded & full - use a solid fabric. I made one w/large medallions & the medallions ended up going sideways due to the cut of the skirt.